RyanE

The 'WHEN' is not a statement, it's a description of the triggering of the programming. In Composer programming, that's the event that happens, which is in the left pane in programming. The description (which does say 'When') is at the top of the programming screen once selected in the events pane. For example: When Office -> Office Lights turn on... [do this]. RyanE

12V to USB C works, although this is a bit bulky, I tried it with a PC supply, worked fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DGDQ48H And of course, you can get them for a lot cheaper if you want to wait from Aliexpress... https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805320583139.html RyanE

You don't have to post the same thing in two different threads... But since you did, so will I: Not necessarily unless you're a Control4 dealer. Same as in current Snap One distribution locations, I would assume. That said, I don't speak for any of the companies involved here, and can't predict the future, but I think you may be making an unfounded assumption... RyanE

Not necessarily unless you're a Control4 dealer. Same as in current Snap One distribution locations, I would assume. That said, I don't speak for any of the companies involved here, and can't predict the future, but I think you may be making an unfounded assumption... RyanE

Yeah, I have some converting USB ends to try the same thing w/ 12v DC supply. Haven't done it yet, but I have the parts around here somewhere... RyanE

Those are pretty cool. Only downside is they're wifi, not hardwired, and power is USB C (with included brick -- with a 90deg angle, which is clever). I've played with them a bit, and the mmWave sensor combined with the PIR works out pretty well. And since Alan already has a driver for them... RyanE

I take it you're not a Caddyshack fan. Not everyone has good taste...

Oh, there won't be any speed improvement, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness. So you've got that going for you ... which is nice.

*should*, not *will*... https://blog.roku.com/developer/addressing-current-ecp-issues-our-developer-are-experiencing RyanE

https://tonylixu.medium.com/linux-networking-what-is-ip-address-169-254-169-254-f9e23b7332fe RyanE

You can copy the programming and paste it into an XML editor (or text editor), modify it, copy it back to the clipboard and paste it into your programming but it's error-prone, and the description would need to be modified as well as the statement itself. Feel free to try it, but if you mess it up, it's on you... RyanE

I'll wait for the photos. It doesn't sound like they're Control4 switches. In the UK, that long ago, they could be puck or some other 'specialty' switches. RyanE

4K Movies in every room, and 3 simultaneously in this room! RyanE

Your opinion. Control4's adherence to the dealer installation model is certainly a topic for conjecture and discussion, but, sadly for you, it's not up for a vote. RyanE

Yeah, I forget about centralized lighting, mainly because I don't have any of it in my home... That said, it's also 'more native' and easier to install (driver/software-wise) in a Control4 installation than using a 3rd-party system. Those are some nice looking keypads. I think if I were doing 'any' keypads, there are a ton of KNX keypads that are also pretty fantastic by many manufacturers, although that's not the easiest way to go for a US project... RyanE

I'll add that sticking with 3rd party gear that your dealer is already very familiar with is some of the best advice you can get. Sure, your dealer *can* integrate the less expensive thing, but you don't want to be the guinea pig that pays for your dealer's education. In a lot of cases, the 'dealer recommended' product will be less expensive in the long run (even if more expensive up front) because the dealer doesn't need to spend time to figure it out or make a driver, manually configure it, etc. That's one of the reasons Control4 lighting, for example, can in some cases still be economical compared to less expensive alternatives. The electrician installs them (same as any other dimmer, no additional wiring), the dealer adds the free driver and taps the top button 4 times to learn, and it's fully in the system. No figuring out drivers, no manual configuration (like for Lutron / KNX 3rd party lighting), etc. RyanE

It's certainly an issue, but it's hardly mission critical, and only tangentially user facing, since a pretty small percentage of installed users purchased HE. On this forum, yeah, a much larger percentage, and certain, it's something that needs to be addressed, but it's not as if Navigators are borked in all installs that use them, or even if ComposerPro were having the same issue... Either of those I would define as mission critical. Sorry for your inconvenience. Hopefully it'll release in the next couple of weeks, and all will be well again. RyanE

I disagree that it's OK to tell installers (or homeowners) to tear apart a manufacturer's remote as a solution. As far as Josh.ai, yep, basically. They're converting it to text with their own engine, then using Roku's Text Search API call. RyanE

I think you're missing the point of what I'm asking for. I want to be able to make the Roku driver work like the AppleTV and/or Comcast Xfinity X1 drivers, to allow the Control4 remote to be used in place of the native remote. I'm not looking for a hacked hardware solution for a single system, I want a legitimate software solution for *every* system. RyanE

Once a driver implements the complete public API, it's done. Cooked. Now, if you guys know someone at Roku who can open up a voice API that would let me send a voice stream to the Roku like it's remote can, let me know... RyanE

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Yeah, I don't know the answer to that, sorry. RyanE

Ratgdo == Rage Against the Garage Door Opener. Pretty funny, but true... RyanE

It looks to me like you have to press the button to initiate Bluetooth pairing. There aren't any programming commands on the driver. I don't know how the bluetooth reconnect to an already paired device works, sorry, don't have time to test that. That said, if you're doing AirPlay2 from an Apple device, you can directly start AirPlay2 streaming on it, and it will (optionally) start playing in the specified room(s), and (optionally) shut off after the stream stops. RyanE

I don't think that's exactly what they're proposing, but I couldn't figure out enough to make an intelligent comment on the post... I think it's something like using the 0-10, but getting 'full off' by using the dimmer instead of a switch. In any case, probably not something to do. RyanE