Control4 Dealer
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Cyknight last won the day on May 20

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About Cyknight

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  1. This is really off the top of my head, but it sounds like it's trying to update - any lights blinking on the device AFTER identifying?
  2. It's been forever since trying this on a TS for me, but yes you still can - select the playlist, select the tracks and you have option to delete tracks, as for order - no not much there in any interface. An yes you can edit playlists in the Media tap (be it PRO, HE or ME - and ME is free and requires no licenses whatsoever.
  3. Contacts: Step sensors on stairs (quickest response) to turn on lights DC adapter plugged into an outlet without back-up so sense poweroutages at rack Same setup for the plug-in for the trailer. And another on the circuit for the fridge and freezer. Water sensors for the system at the rack itself (in addition/just in case security system is disconnected for whatever reason) Heat sensor on some sensitive equipment (not FIRE heat, settable sensor) to trigger extra fans Relays: Several LED strips for closet lighting Those same stair under-step LEDS Those fans for the heat sensor Fireplace Hard shutdown of certain devices in case of emergency Garage Doors Triggering several devices that have a 12v trigger, including amps connected to pre-amps, power bars and UPS devices. Back-up water pump and air pump for aquarium
  4. Last I heard HIK makes Lorex, Swann, LTS, FLIR and more - Dahua and HIK AFAIK are direct competitors in that regard.
  5. But we're not talking mathematics here but version numbers. 2.1 doesn't exist. 2.1.0 does, as did 2.1.1 and we had 2.0.0 and 2.0.1 and 2.0.2 and 2.0.4 and 2.0.5 and 2.0.6.......
  6. Hmm thinking on it, I think an issue was introduced in 2.9 where hiding the FIRST room in a project causes some grief - a fix is in the works, but I wonder if it's related...
  7. You can fix this pretty easily by simply using T3 portable units instead. ID each tablet to a room, then hide all rooms. This instantly forces each portable to their own room. Sure, I know - not cheap. On the other hand, WHY are you moving these tablets around if you have one dedicated for every room. Might just be that much easier to get a few extra tablets?
  8. Problem with experience buttons is that they don't show under lights. (and there IS actually a light bulb experience button, for color changing LED that you could set to just use white and off) Nicest solution is to get the Chowmain relay to light driver, use an empty controller relay so it keeps full track and program on light toggle to send the IP command.
  9. Mind you, battery operated blinds are often LESS reliable in % because travel speed (And thus time) can change as the batteries drain.
  10. So does the dual relay driver, the only one truly 'locked' into open/close only is the single.
  11. As mentioned, Somfy is the big guy. There LT series is your most common option. That said, I've connected cheap china 'specials' as well and control wise it works fine - generally speaking motors work in one of two ways, either they have two hots and a neutral, and you energize one or the other (AC/high voltage motors) or they operate by switching the DC direction, both of which can be done with two relays ( assuming COM/NC/NO relays).
  12. It's not that the motor is more expensive - far from it. The problem lies in that those motors require relays to trigger the direction. This can be done in many ways, some very expensive (ESI panels and R2D7 or similar setup) which work great (and are can be operated outside of other control systems if desired, and can be integrated by most automation companies) some not that bad at all (direct hookup to C4 relays be they controllers or some form of controlled relay like Houselogix' piece or a combination thereof). Which works very well too - but I've noticed very few dealers are willing to venture down that road, eventhough C4 has all the driver they need to make that work perfectly fine (especially now that they added a 3 relay blind driver...). If all you're doing is that one very tall window, rf may be cheaper, if you're doing a whole house, wired is still cheaper to do - if you can find someone to do it. Note that I'm talking a bout wired vs wireless control, not wired power/battery.
  13. My problems with PowerView have never been placement/communication but rather with the Hub itself inexplicably 'doing things' I've had them randomly delete scenes and even blinds I've had them start controlling a random blind in room 'b' when a scene in room 'a' was called (something you can't even do in the app) I'm at one right now where it added a blind that's NOT EVEN SET ON THE BRIDGE (pebble remote control desired only) to do something across multiple scenes...
  14. I've never had any isue.
  15. Actually those URTSii drivers are junk - Houselogix has two options and both are excellent.