Cyknight

Not quite. While the bridge closes a few gaps between the x10 and x20 cameras, it (potentially) does so much more, and does more with X20 cams than x10's. If you want x20 capability, get x20 cameras, don't think the bridge is some sort of upgrade path to make X10 into x20. Yes they are reliable as such but I'd stick with HIK or perhaps go Luma or Uniview on camera change. If wanting to keep old cams, Uniview has good options for smart notifications etc in their NVRS, a better app than HIK and should be able to integrate the old cams just fine. Current HIK NVRS aren't terrible in their smart work, but I can't say how well or poor your existing HIK cams are. If they're old 720p cameras, no smart NVR will fix that. Honestly, I'd be hesitant to suggest going Clare. It's not bad stuff at all, but it's alarm panel portion has been struggling to make headway, and if one falls..... Add that Snap has Luma as well as Clare so why keep both long term, and then add that Residio is looking to aquire Snap and is even more likely to keep only one (and Luma is more versatile).....

Well your $10 are worthless from a dealer perspective. They may even work fine (though I doubt they work well) - if doing those you may as well just twist rca cables to cat5 leads directly, save yourself an RJ45 end too. $500 is a lot, but I don't use those, cant comment too much. Those do do SPDIF as well though, including passing through surround AND convert so not really a comparison to the $10 one you're linking. We use a different pro-only channel brand (GreenAudio) which off the top of my head price is something nearer to 250 US. Those can take either stereo, optical OR coax SPDIF and it'll output all three on the other end (if feeding stereo PCM, if surround analogue is disabled) similar to the one you linked from AV Pro. They're super universal so our install guys just carry them in stock in the vans - it's just not worth it from our perspective to carry several different options. If you're more DIY in your install deal with your dealer, it's your time to go through 10 sets of baluns from amazon (and thus your time to consider vs finding a cheap option). That's not a negative - just pointing out that there's a reason you can do things like this cheaper if you're willing to use your own time. Any way that is all going too far into the realm of discussing why installers of ANY kind don't carry 5 options for every possible scenario and thus why you may be able to find a cheap one-off option and make it work.

OOps, yes didn't catch that, can't use the wired keypad, you'd want the wireless one. The fan controller cannot change the hard button layout at all.

Meaning that yes any keypad would do in a way as you don't need line voltage control anymore. But watch code on having a fan hardwired with no on/off power control. You could also basically just keep the fan controller (but you're stuck with 5 buttons), remove the 'hard' button connections, put in a bit of programming to keep that fan at 100% at all times and program the buttons to control the new wifi fan speed settings.

Connect is simply the new (required) 4Sight and that won't have any Araknis requirements (remember, OVRCPro is built into C4 controllers). ASSIST which is the higher tier option may (sort of) have that, I wouldn't know the details as non of this is rolling out in our region for now (US only) so I haven't dug into it. Assist gives (certified for it) dealers added remote assist options as well as direct C4 support access. If nothing else, I expect added C4 direct support on networking issues will have requirements (such as using araknis/pakedge and other OVRC enabled devices) to at least some degree and may have specific equipment they wont support: i doubt it'll mean they won't support other troubleshooting however. And no I certainly wouldn't suggest Eero either, bu that's just me. Also, as an Epic/Gold/Diamond dealer employee: don't fall over your dealer being Diamond or otherwise: that is 95% based on sales volumes, and the other 5% is a handful of requirements on certification and number of certified employees - non of which make ANY guarantee on the actual working knowledge they have. Not in any way saying that the dealer you're talking to is bad - any more than I'm saying they're good. As for labelling (at least important) ports and having wiring diagrams accessible (in general terms), well that's just proper setup really.

The list is: -Not UBQT now nor for the first decade after they announce a proper support channel. I've no particular hard feelings against UBQT but no sane enterprise level IT department, even outsourced, would use something with no pro support line on gear. Of course we're not talking corporate offices or universities here but homes so it really doesn't matter does it.

Same for me: myself and kids just switch apps using the 'roku controls' often enough that it doesn't make sense to use passthrough as we'll be watching disney+ and it'll say netflix (or whatever combo) becuase the system isn't going to be aware of those changes. We do set passthrough for clients, especially for 'simple' setups and multi-(outside of family) user setups to be less confusing (ie retirement home theatre we're setting up will have this - they won't even be aware there's a Roku as such, just that there's a bunch of streaming services)

LOL. Troll post.

It really does just that - keep the selected mini driver as the visible 'source' device. That doesn't mean there may not be an issue with it - but that it's sole intended use and function

I was talking about the axxes ind keypads, not the android touchscreen. My mistake, I though he was asking if I installed many of those. If the average person can't see the difference between that (the axxess keypads) and an actual touchscreen (C4 or tablet doesn't matter) then humanity is in deep trouble. And no it won't do intercom - that is only available on native C4 screens. As for how they compare: I never suggested them, never used them at a client, and likely never will (nothing against them as such, but if going the alternate option route I don't see why I'd use that over a mounted tablet). I demo'd one and found it slow to respond to touch and slow to load - but that was an early unit so I will certainly say a newer user should comment on how well they work for a better 'review' than I can give.

Yes, but again, why would you. Using ARC if optical is simply available makes way more sense. There's also audio baluns that take optical and output stereo analogue out there as well that would work with your current audio matrix without any 'trickery' - I really just see ZERO reason to enter ARC into the mix as a somewhat unstable and difficult to work with way of getting audio to your speakers....

WHY would you use an ARC return in that situation, when you can simply use a sstandard audio balun for either stereo or SPDIF? Depending on age of C4 8x8 matrix, it should have coax SPDIF inputs, but you're just using a much more expensive options, potetnially with more add ons, to do something that can be done much simpler and cost efficient.

Don't consider them touchscreens at all. They're super fancy 'touch' keypads. 'Touchscreens' in C4 world are full scale visual/user interfaces that give you your whole home to control in every aspect, a keypad is a programmed control point set to do specific tasks.

I personally despise the 'modern' C4 look but to each there own. I much prefer the 'traditional' version (especially in midnight black with an actual stainless steel cover). That said, tastes will differ. I do like these: https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/touch-keypads/ Rithum is another options that I've looked at but never used them. I'm concerned about speed of control a bit on those and just had zero time to trial them. In the end, we've done VERY few alternative options - because the added cost of alternative keypads with less snappy control, or much more expensive keypads that work just as well tends to convince even the most 'liquid' clients. We've played with some KNX options and things like the blacknova aria but it's rarely gone anywhere, and frankly they rarely work quite as well as a regular keypad. Most cases it's a few alternate options in specific locations such as decked out theatres but the majority still regular keypads. The problem with the overly fancy options is also that they POP a lot more. Which is nice in a demo setup and looks great on a web page showing one of them....but it tends to become this obvious thing sticking out on every wall of your house if you put them everywhere and actually can feel like MORE wall clutter, not less. Just something to consider. Also, while the 'touch' look is again nice, think of how you live and move around in the house. A 'tactile' keypad over the course of a bit of time become muscle memory - you walk across the house and merely 'feel' what button to press, do so blindly and move along and you get what you want. Generally for any touch options - you will ALWAYS stop and look at what you're doing. Not telling you NOT to do alternate and fancy options - but don't get drawn too much into the look of something, that may be better of not being noticeable at all. Those are touchscreen alternatives, as in an alternative for using a touchscreen, not so much keypads, and I find them rather 'meh'

Nothing new from C4 as far as I'm aware, not sure if there was a sonos update or not. What did you have to reboot to get it back? C4, The sonos pieces?

On a serious note, OP I have to agree with Andrew: it sounds like you may be over your head to begin with. It's not clear, but I assume you don't have access to ComposerPro and the DevTools. Without it you will never succeed, and getting that depends on Control4/Snap - not from whatever anyone on here can really tell you. From there, the fact that you're asking where to get the control hex codes for the device you're making a driver for indicates that you have the whole though process backwards. Those codes are provided by the device company: Control4 doesn't just make up codes at random for a device. And yes, if you think creating a two-way RS232 driver is a single (or two, three) page PDF explanation, then yes - find someone to do it for you. NOW if you are indeed a C4 dealer with Pro access, and all you're looking to do is a simple one-way serial control driver: well as along as you can get the codes from the manufacturer (note, Decimal, Hexadecimal and Ascii are all supported in writing a driver), as well as Baud rate, parity etc needed on their end, then the Composer built-in driver wizard makes it pretty simple to create a serial driver and the online user guide has plenty of info if you're willing to dig into it. I'll look over the idea that you wouldn't know what driver type to use and wanting to create a driver because videowall is a bit of an odd one, but it's going to be AVswitch.

Here's mine, it's a few lines only really. Find out what client means by nothing's working. Fix the problem.

Assuming this is a lutron central panel system with low voltage keypads...Oh probably a $100k or up to rewire the complete house, redo drywall (assuming it's drywall, not latch let alone brick or concrete) and repaint everything to ensure colour match plus permits for electrical, fixing whatever shows up because you're doing a full house reno that wouldn't pass inspection.... Pretty sure seller is going to pass on your offer....

That seems a huge leap. As Ari above, we have a ton of Chimes out there and very few issues at all, non having the one you reported. It's certainly not the could service as you already mention phone to phone is working, which uses the same cloud service. To ask the obvious: did you check the wire going to the chime? did you but the chime on a short jumper wire direct at the network switch to test?

Hmm. Indeed the color buttons do not show.... weird.

Source driver, IR code, or 'device specific commands' - depends on the driver. If the driver doesn't have it...in your case you may be able to use the room, and send {colour} command. {colour} of course denotes that you add red, green etc depending on which one you wnat

The touch doesn't have genric hard buttons, so the only thing you could really do is at a room level: WHEN command {whatever unused button available on the halo touch is available, say STOP} is received IF {room} selected device is androidTV send command {colour} to AndroidTV

Default doorbell press on chime = call all screens. The check mark I mentioned only disables the 'dingdong' sound (don't confuse the name of the doorbell which is 'Chime' with the wording 'play door chime'. The latter literally just means 'play ringing sound if doorbell station calls'. I can see where it may be confusing mind you. An announcement is NOT an intercom announcement, it is the ability to play a sound effect triggered by an event. The fact hat you may be trying to sound a 'doorbell chime' sound through speakers when the 'Chime doorbell' button is pressed has nothing to do with the INTERCOM portion of the door station to call a touchscreen (or your phones). Up to you if you want to screens to play that announcement as well, though if I don't recommend it for your scenario (keep it simple: play desired sound, be it winchester chimes a roaring lion or a machine gun firing, on the speakers, leave the touchscreens 'dingdng' off and just have it deal with the intercom. Yes, the wording can be confusing: announcements have been in use for a LONG time and more recently added touchscreens as an option (but before intercom was introduced), then came intercom and eventually the doorstation got to be called 'chime'..... so it all sort of evolved into this setup where some naming conventions could use an update....

Depends on how big, and what budget really. Frame 32" should come in around 500 or less on sale. Viewsonic carries a portable oled screen at 15" with speakers at 1/2 an inch deep that you could probably just tape onto the wall with industrial tape (but would cost you about the same as the frame).

It doesn't allow adding more controllers. Will it allow you to add more than one room - yes it will. Should you add more than one room beyond the function of a double room for audio options (TV vs surround vs headphones), maybe use a Zone2 out on a receiver or a few lights? No you really shouldn't.