Cyknight

You bet, several times. No issue to date, even in a full concrete crawlspace. Ability to use Wifi in crawlspace will indicate a bit how good/bad the 2.4 Ghz penetration is, but inggnereal you'll simple want to have another zigbee repeating device (any c4 branded lighting, keypad) no more than 20 feet away, or a C4 controller 30f or Z2IO device 50f away and you should be fine.

Not quite. While the bridge closes a few gaps between the x10 and x20 cameras, it (potentially) does so much more, and does more with X20 cams than x10's. If you want x20 capability, get x20 cameras, don't think the bridge is some sort of upgrade path to make X10 into x20.
 
Yes they are reliable as such but I'd stick with HIK or perhaps go Luma or Uniview on camera change. If wanting to keep old  cams, Uniview has good options for smart notifications etc in their NVRS, a better app than HIK and should be able to integrate the old cams just fine.
Current HIK NVRS aren't terrible in their smart work, but I can't say how well or poor your existing HIK cams are. If they're old 720p cameras, no smart NVR will fix that.
 
Honestly, I'd be hesitant to suggest going Clare. It's not bad stuff at all, but it's alarm panel portion has been struggling to make headway, and if one falls.....
Add that Snap has Luma as well as Clare so why keep both long term, and then add that Residio is looking to aquire Snap and is even more likely to keep only one (and Luma is more versatile).....

Meaning that yes any keypad would do in a way as you don't need line voltage control anymore. But watch code on having a fan hardwired with no on/off power control.
You could also basically just keep the fan controller (but you're stuck with 5 buttons), remove the 'hard' button connections, put in a bit of programming to keep that fan at 100% at all times and program the buttons to control the new wifi fan speed settings.

I personally despise the 'modern' C4 look but to each there own. I much prefer the 'traditional' version (especially in midnight black with an actual stainless steel cover).
 
That said, tastes will differ. I do like these: https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/touch-keypads/
 
Rithum is another options that I've looked at but never used them. I'm concerned about speed of control a bit on those and just had zero time to trial them.
 
In the end, we've done VERY few alternative options - because the added cost of alternative keypads with less snappy control, or much more expensive keypads that work just as well tends to convince even the most 'liquid' clients. 🤷‍♂️
We've played with some KNX options and things like the blacknova aria but it's rarely gone anywhere, and frankly they rarely work quite as well as a regular keypad.
Most cases it's a few alternate options in specific locations such as decked out theatres but the majority still regular keypads.
The problem with the overly fancy options is also that they POP a lot more. Which is nice in a demo setup and looks great on a web page showing one of them....but it tends to become this obvious thing sticking out on every wall of your house if you put them everywhere and actually can feel like MORE wall clutter, not less. Just something to consider.
Also, while the 'touch' look is again nice, think of how you live and move around in the house. A 'tactile' keypad over the course of a bit of time become muscle memory - you walk across the house and merely 'feel' what button to press, do so blindly and move along and you get what you want. Generally for any touch options - you will ALWAYS stop and look at what you're doing.
 
Not telling you NOT to do alternate and fancy options - but don't get drawn too much into the look of something, that may be better of not being noticeable at all.
 
Those are touchscreen alternatives, as in an alternative for using a touchscreen, not so much keypads, and I find them rather 'meh'
 
 

I personally despise the 'modern' C4 look but to each there own. I much prefer the 'traditional' version (especially in midnight black with an actual stainless steel cover).
 
That said, tastes will differ. I do like these: https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/touch-keypads/
 
Rithum is another options that I've looked at but never used them. I'm concerned about speed of control a bit on those and just had zero time to trial them.
 
In the end, we've done VERY few alternative options - because the added cost of alternative keypads with less snappy control, or much more expensive keypads that work just as well tends to convince even the most 'liquid' clients. 🤷‍♂️
We've played with some KNX options and things like the blacknova aria but it's rarely gone anywhere, and frankly they rarely work quite as well as a regular keypad.
Most cases it's a few alternate options in specific locations such as decked out theatres but the majority still regular keypads.
The problem with the overly fancy options is also that they POP a lot more. Which is nice in a demo setup and looks great on a web page showing one of them....but it tends to become this obvious thing sticking out on every wall of your house if you put them everywhere and actually can feel like MORE wall clutter, not less. Just something to consider.
Also, while the 'touch' look is again nice, think of how you live and move around in the house. A 'tactile' keypad over the course of a bit of time become muscle memory - you walk across the house and merely 'feel' what button to press, do so blindly and move along and you get what you want. Generally for any touch options - you will ALWAYS stop and look at what you're doing.
 
Not telling you NOT to do alternate and fancy options - but don't get drawn too much into the look of something, that may be better of not being noticeable at all.
 
Those are touchscreen alternatives, as in an alternative for using a touchscreen, not so much keypads, and I find them rather 'meh'
 
 

That'd be your obvious option yes 🙂.
If you want something else, you'll have to look into a separate setup for keypads: no other keypads can be connected to the C4 bridge. Small note: nothing FORCES you to use the C4 keypad bridge to use C4 central lighting.
 

As Mitch above mentioned, this likely is due to a known change/glitch in C4/Spotify update. Likely as he said update the Spotify driver and the system software. Nothing major if you're already on 3.x.
Reach out to Mitch above with a PM and he can get you sorted in shot order

Depends on how big, and what budget really.
Frame 32" should come in around 500 or less on sale.
Viewsonic carries a portable oled screen at 15" with speakers at 1/2 an inch deep that you could probably just tape onto the wall with industrial tape (but would cost you about the same as the frame).
 

I have also seen electric shock disabling keypads. Especially if you have a centralized system with keypads wired to a central controller, it's not crazy that a hefty or repeat shock could not only disable a keypad, but also a controller or powersupply. Not very likely to cause permanent damage, but can certainly put a device in a frozen state.
 
OP, it may be worth rebooting your lighting panel completely using breakers to see if the system comes back alive across the house.
 
But yes, root cause being static electricity is not far fetched.

I've only used the C4 official driver - not had an issue at all in recent years. MY guess is that if it's not turning on, there's an MAC mismatch, a setting on the TV that is preventing wake on lan or a setting in you network preventing the WoL broadcast.
And yes, both wired and wireless.

Latest word from Roku directly to large partners is that they expect to have it fixed by the end of the week.

I've only used the C4 official driver - not had an issue at all in recent years. MY guess is that if it's not turning on, there's an MAC mismatch, a setting on the TV that is preventing wake on lan or a setting in you network preventing the WoL broadcast.
And yes, both wired and wireless.

Latest word from Roku directly to large partners is that they expect to have it fixed by the end of the week.

Well, I would say don't mix SSIDs on differente wifi gens (which is not quote the same as the same gen AP by the way) - you COULD get a different AP in an out building on a completely different SSID and it should be no problem at all (similarly I have an AP set to a different SSID completely for in-laws to use when they're visiting with their trailer - where they put it is a dead spot for wifi (and no don't care to have it there any other time), and I wasn't investing in a matching AP, so used one of my old ones on a 2.4 only SSID)

It's less mixing brands, more mixing management environments - unifi and araknis offer management options of some form, allowing checking router status vs switch status vs ap status vs powerbar status vs device status - tying to use TWO of those systems is where it gets a little odd.
 

If local, you'll want a cloudkey because it is NOT a router, and not creating a router on router (gateway) setup.
 

Hmm I would say the Ratgo does not intrinsically meet that requirement. Making the programming meet that is as simply as hiding the actual driver, then using a virtual one with only the sensors attached to program against.
WHEN vistual garage door is closed, toggle internal and externla light {xx even numer of timer} , play Frank Caliendo doing Arnold yelling 'Get out, get out of here now!' on loop, delay xx seconds, lower door.

Hmm I would say the Ratgo does not intrinsically meet that requirement. Making the programming meet that is as simply as hiding the actual driver, then using a virtual one with only the sensors attached to program against.
WHEN vistual garage door is closed, toggle internal and externla light {xx even numer of timer} , play Frank Caliendo doing Arnold yelling 'Get out, get out of here now!' on loop, delay xx seconds, lower door.

Get proper fire/heat and proper CO's installed to tie into your security system. Yes fugly ceiling clutter but sometimes design just can't trump safety....

Sure - I wouldn't advise it myself UNLESS it's ch25 (which won't have other things interfering), but then I'm not that high on always using ch25 to begin with (interference free but weaker - that makes it a good choice if there's lots of WiFi around, but in a controlled environment you can manage interference and stronger signal can be better)

As mentioned, I prefer one mesh from a central location to create a full-house mesh that includes all remotes. Based on your setup, I'd use the centra EA3 for that, do basically all main floor lights and 4-8 select lights on the other two floors, to get remotes there covered plus all remotes, then I'd use the EA3 upstairs for the rest of the top floor, the theatre ea for the rest of the basement.
 
Not true singular right or wrong way though, depends a lot on layout, construction material and so on.
 
And no you manually select what zigbee server to use, it doesn't automatically grab one.

I've seen this a handful of times: this seems to occur when a zone times out (ie playing a playlist, or airplay and device leaves, Spotify and it gets disconnected. Somehow the timeout isn't shutting the zone down in the background, eventhough interface says it's off.
 
As I've seen it only a few times, getting any logs in to C4 hasn't happened on my side yet: not sure if they are aware of any bug about it.

If they did, you'd have nothing. That hidden API is fully shut down at this point.

As do some others, based on logitech media service - but that wasn't what C4 used to begin with.
Official partnership rules out using unofficial API use though, so stuck - and yes the official API sucks (though that is still more the fault of Spotify/Apple than it is Sonos)

HAH, that one I may have to have some doubts on