thecodeman

Very likely the IP changed, then. Need to confirm it in composer pro vs what the box is reporting and assign a static IP or DHCP reservation in the router to prevent it from changing again. 

UniFi, Pak and Araknis tech specs are similar to what you see from avr manufacturers.  Bloated and exaggerated, like watts per channel.
You guys really think a UniFi AP can handle 300-400 clients?  I know they can’t, really about 40-50 before they crap out.
Ruckus has the high price because it has the higher performance and their specs are true.
Never attempted to try Pak or Araknis in the same test, so can’t be sure for them.  But at their price points, you should be buying Ruckus anyways.

24/7 technical support and software support including updates and upgrades. The hardware has a limited lifetime warranty. 

You should know that there are only 2 movies actually shot and presented at a high frame rate (4K60) - Billy Lynns Long Halftime Walk and Gemini Man. Outside of these 2 and any content you create yourself with a camcorder, all 4K Blu-ray movies are going to be 4K 24FPS and most likely 4:2:0 10 bit color. 4K60 4:4:4 10 and 4K 60 4:4:4 12 actually require higher bandwidth than HDMI 2 can deliver at 20 and 24gb respectively. 18GB is the current limit.  HDMI 2.1 will be needed to take advantage of that. So, J+P isn't handicapping you as they accept and display 4K30 4:2:0 10 bit which covers all broadcast and media except those 2 movies today OR if you're a PC gamer and want/need the higher color bit rate (but you wont be gaming through a distribution system anyway). When it comes to 8K distribution, as you mentioned HDMI 2.1 will be needed - along with something to watch.
I'm presuming that you're using the Roku and having an issue with it's video output and it might be set on automatic. I'd force the roku output to be 4K 30 4:2:0. Just Add Power can accept 4k60 but its going to convert that to 4k30. Your tv will be turning it back into 4k60 again as its a 60hz native set - just like it does when you feed it 4k30 video or 4k24 movies. 
And if you have an atmos zone, you need to have an HDMI device in line that can pass the atmos through on hdmi as well as downmix it to 2CH stereo. This is one of the only devices on the market that will do that. https://www.avproedge.com/ac-avdm-auhd.html
Most folks though will do a dedicated source to the AVR atmos zone as it is cheaper and they arent likely to need simultaneous theater zone + kitchen zone. In your case with the need for a single source feeding 2 atmos zones and 2CH audio zone, you have some work ahead of you but it is possible. 

You should know that there are only 2 movies actually shot and presented at a high frame rate (4K60) - Billy Lynns Long Halftime Walk and Gemini Man. Outside of these 2 and any content you create yourself with a camcorder, all 4K Blu-ray movies are going to be 4K 24FPS and most likely 4:2:0 10 bit color. 4K60 4:4:4 10 and 4K 60 4:4:4 12 actually require higher bandwidth than HDMI 2 can deliver at 20 and 24gb respectively. 18GB is the current limit.  HDMI 2.1 will be needed to take advantage of that. So, J+P isn't handicapping you as they accept and display 4K30 4:2:0 10 bit which covers all broadcast and media except those 2 movies today OR if you're a PC gamer and want/need the higher color bit rate (but you wont be gaming through a distribution system anyway). When it comes to 8K distribution, as you mentioned HDMI 2.1 will be needed - along with something to watch.
I'm presuming that you're using the Roku and having an issue with it's video output and it might be set on automatic. I'd force the roku output to be 4K 30 4:2:0. Just Add Power can accept 4k60 but its going to convert that to 4k30. Your tv will be turning it back into 4k60 again as its a 60hz native set - just like it does when you feed it 4k30 video or 4k24 movies. 
And if you have an atmos zone, you need to have an HDMI device in line that can pass the atmos through on hdmi as well as downmix it to 2CH stereo. This is one of the only devices on the market that will do that. https://www.avproedge.com/ac-avdm-auhd.html
Most folks though will do a dedicated source to the AVR atmos zone as it is cheaper and they arent likely to need simultaneous theater zone + kitchen zone. In your case with the need for a single source feeding 2 atmos zones and 2CH audio zone, you have some work ahead of you but it is possible. 

If you have a security+ 2.0 opener, have your dealer buy one of these
https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/
Hook it up to a C4 Z2IO along with a rail mount contact on your door. Program the contact and relay to the general garage door driver. 
Now you have an official integration that doesn't rely on the internet or some unofficial connection to the MyQ service. 

Yeah i am using ring as well.  The motion sensing and doorbell events are quite handy.  Doorbell events trigger a doorbell announcement wav file which triggers in all zones in my home.  Motion triggers the front porch light.  Pretty much as soon as i get a notification on my phone of doorbell ring or motion sense the programming fires in Control4.

The most bulletproof video distribution options in my opinion are AV Pro, and JAP.  Leaf, Binary, etc, come after those two.  

In my opinion right now AVProEdge (formerly AVProConnect) has the best gear possible. It is true 4K, with upscalers and downscalers and audio extraction. Its as good as it gets for HDBaseT

Your post on Avs was started by someone with 1 post and never posted again and it started a long thread.  Most anti c4 posts on Avs are because end users cannot get composer pro only composer HE.  The other posts usually revert back to poor networking   
Avs is a big DIY forum so it is going to have an anti custom install slant.  
Your issues are within networking and lack of technical knowledge of your dealer, not Control4 as a product.  
You can contact c4 through this forum - I believe @Derrick Cain may be able to help but again you can find a remote dealer on here who can get you set up right.  Look at their threads and the dozens of people who give them good reviews.   Did you have dozens of referrals for the dealer who did your c4 install?

Sno cones, please

I recently switched to Dish as well at my own home, and I love the hopper 3.

The image works fine, but that link won't work for anyone who's not a dealer.

The image works fine, but that link won't work for anyone who's not a dealer.

Hi all. I was just notified that HouseLogix was acquired by SnapAV and therefore the MOBOTIX drivers were taken down from the HouseLogix Website.
Here are the drivers in case anyone needs them:
camera_mobotix_ptz_mod1.c4i
mobotix_intercom.c4z

Isn't it easier to rip the files to flac and despatch the changer to the great electronics recycle centrer in the sky?
One hdd in the sata port. Job done. ???

The best advice I can give you? Learn the ropes about AV, automation, and networking before opening a shop and charging money to do it for other people. This industry is less "born talent" and more "baptism by fire". If you can, work with/for another company who does it in some form or fashion even if they don't do Control4, you'll learn a lot and your future clients will appreciate it.

It's not a limitation of the Control4, rather that lower end TVs often dont have the ability to select "HDMI 1", rather they just have a toggle input selection where you have to keep hitting the input button until you get the input you want. Sometimes you can get lucky and even if the remote doesnt have a button for each input, discrete codes from higher model tvs may still work.. but there's no way to tell until you try it.

It's not a limitation of the Control4, rather that lower end TVs often dont have the ability to select "HDMI 1", rather they just have a toggle input selection where you have to keep hitting the input button until you get the input you want. Sometimes you can get lucky and even if the remote doesnt have a button for each input, discrete codes from higher model tvs may still work.. but there's no way to tell until you try it.

For those of you that are interested in 3rd party drivers, here's a quick demo I programmed using Alan's (Chowmain) Advanced Announcement driver paired with his Internet Weather driver.  I know some dealers don't really get into some of the driver universe that exists outside of C4, but I happen to be a fan of the creativity coming from Alan Chow, and the other popular developers.  
 
 
http://youtu.be/7LM2cld8SdY

The big issue that they potentially heavily bog down controllers. Timers are much safer options than WHILE statements. Plus Timers can be 'manually' stopped if required with a custom button, schedule et al.
 
Examples of issues:
 
WHILE light is ON
...and then that light senses an overload and goes into protection. You'll have NO way of remotely cutting the loop.
 
WHILE TV current input is...
someone manually changes the input...
 
Careful use can be fine, but there are perfectly good alternatives available for almost ANY situation - using timers, start/stop commands vs pulse and so-on.
 
Even something like
WHILE security is in alarm state
toggle light
delay 1 second
Why bother? Just do
WHEN security goes to alarm state
Start 1 second timer
 
When 1 second timer expires
 
When security alarm state cleared
Stop timer
 
Yes that's more lines, HOWEVER that WHILE statement is VERY likely to have created a back-log in the system and will likely continue to toggle the light for several seconds, in somne cases several minutes or even longer.
 
Even on your motion, the WHILE statement is sending constant light on traffic across the ZigBee mesh - both from the motion potentiatlly, but for sure the light.
Using timers there only sends occasional traffic - basically only once when you turn the light on, and once when you turn it off.
 
 
I won't say it's WRONG to use WHILE statements, but it should be used with caution if at all. The alternatives, while a few extra lines of code, are often simply better.

Now all you need to do is an RV, train, and plane and you should have the bases covered

PS: I don't remember seeing any posts on this forum that review the experience with SOMFY ZIGBEE interface for the ILT2 motor. If anyone wants me to post video or photos of that, let me know. I know folks have posted their experience with Mechoshade and Lutron 2 way shade integration, but if you want my experience with the SOMFY, l am happy to answer questions.
It was a very easy set up, the driver is great and the programming is quite easy. I had a retrofit project, so I used the SOMFY ILT2 motor, which used a 120V romex run into the motor from an outlet on the wall of the shade. Each shade needs it own ZIGBEE interface. The motor is very quiet, and very fast.
The ZIGBEE interface also works with the Somfy ST 30 RS-485 motor but that is a 24 VOLT motor, so not the greatest for a retrofit project since I would needed to mount a 24V transformer somewhere. But in new construction, 24V cable runs to shades in series is a nice option with a transformer out sight a la Lutron.

I installed the URTSI II and the new Somfy Zigbee controller and some other shades in my home. The Zigbee controller works for the IL2 motor, which is a 120V motor with a special connection port for the Zigbee controller. If you happen to have this motor, it is the absolute bomb since you get 2 way control of the shade. This motor does NOT use the RTS remote control.
But if you bought the URTSI II (which works for the RTS motors), you can get it all to work fine for the 6 shades, just a touch slower and abit less control. I have the URTSI set up in my bedroom controlling 6 shades. However, there is NO 2 way control of the shade The URTSI will be essentially acting like the RTS remote control. This means that you will have 3 commands for each shade: UP, DOWN and STOP.
BEFORE you use the URTSI: Have your installer set up your shades with the RTS remote control. Make sure each shade is installed on a SEPARATE channel on the RTS remote control: channel 1,2,3,4,5,6. DO NOT INSTALL the shades all on one channel. You actually can, but that means all the shades will be controlled together and you will not have individual control. Since you have 6 shades, and the cheap RTS remote only handles 5 channels, you will have 2 RTS remotes, 1 remote for channels 1-5 and 1 remote for channel 6. Since the URTSI is essentially acting as a RTS remote control, make sure everything is working with the remote before moving to the URTSI.
FYI: You will only be able to use UP, DOWN and STOP commands. If the blind is moving, the STOP command will STOP the blind. However, it is also used to create ONE favorite position for each blind. So place each blind in a favorite position, and press and hold the STOP button for 5 secs (on the correct RTS channel of course). The shade will jog up and down, and you know it is saved. Once you have that set up, when you get to COMPOSER, you can just send the shade a STOP command, and the shade will move to the favorite position.
Once the shades are set up and their separate channels, and you favorite position is set, plug in the URTI II to the RS-232 port on your controller. It will have a range of 20 feet or so.
Take a look at these instruction: http://www.automatedshadestore.com/shop/product-info.php?Somfy_Universal__RTS__16_Channel_Interface__URTSI_II_-pid324.html
There is a pin out diagram here on converting the URSTI port to the RS-232 port on the controller.
I actually purchased the SOMFY part 9015028 rather than buying a cheap RJ-45 to RS-232 converter online. When I opened the SOMFY converter, the internal pinout was actually different than the diagram posted on the SOMFY CONTROL 4 integration diagram above. I think the yellow wire was on a different pin, that that diagram. So if you bought the SOMFY converter, fine. If you bought an aftermarket converter and are following that diagram, and it does not work, it may be the pin out. I think the somfy converter was $19.
You will need to add the UTRSTI II 16 channel driver 2 (Serial) to your room. It will import all 16 channels (shades) into your remote. You cannot remove the unused channels.
Now, my CONTROL4 dealer says he will place the URTSI 16 channels into a room called shades, and then hide the room in the project. He then only copies over the channels he want into the room with the shades. That seemed a little complicated, but you can try it. It is a bit annoying to see all of the 16 channels/shade on your iPhone app though.
If memory serves me right, there was no additional binding on the shade that needed to be done (but someone can correct me). In System Design, just double click channel 1, toggle UP, DOWN and STOP, and the channel 1 shade should work just fine. Repeat that for all 6 channels/shades.
As far a programming, I created a macro for the shades: ALL SHADES UP, ALL SHADES DOWN, ALL SHADES STOP (which STOPS the shades if they are moving, or if the shades are stationery, it will move them into favorite position.
You can also come up with a macros that work for you. I have a 3 button switch that I dedicated to shades, with the TOP BUTTON being all shades up, MIDDLE BUTTON, stop, and LOWER BUTTON all shades down. If I double or triple click those buttons, I initiate special macros like shade/channel 1 UP, channel 2 STOP (favorite position), etc..... Macros will be your friend when coming up with all of your shade parameters.
Since one of my shades is on an exterior door in my bedroom, I actually programmed triple click UP/DOWN on the main room light BUTTON to open that shade channel only so I can leave all my shades down at night, but still go out side easily.
You will become totally enamored of your motorized blinds. If you expand your blinds in the future, I cannot recommend the ILT2 motor combined with the 2 way ZIGBEE interface enough. It is amazing. With 2 way control, you can set your blinds to open or close at percentage intervals (like 93% closed). Imagine the possibilities of that kind of control of the shade versus an up, down and one favorite position with the RTS/URTSI! Each separate shade will need its own ZIGEBEE controller (they are about $300 each) and you do need space to mount them.
Good luck, and I hope I helped!
Mike