Jump to content


c4Forums Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MikeNYC

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No 2 way serial drivers, no IP drivers, other than the old Weather driver that no longer works properly. Have a few one way serial drivers to control blinds etc though. It seems to have sorted itself out on its own...not exactly sure what happened.
  2. For the past few days I've noticed very sluggish performance with my system, such as light scenes taking 10-15 seconds to execute and SR250 displays also taking 5-15 seconds to populate. I noticed my HC1000's CPU seems to hover around 95% now, with the Director process consuming all of the resources. Rebooting the HC1000 or any other part of the system hasn't had any effect. In the log I see a ton of "Checking if source/input is available on driver [device]", "checking if multiselect driver [device]" and "getting initialize data for driver [device]" flooding past. Any thoughts on what to check next, short of an upgrade?
  3. MikeNYC

    5" Touch screen

    tbear1, My preference is a 6 button by an exit door instead of an LCD. When walking out the door, one really wants to just hit a button and have things work, instead of digging in a menu. My exit door's 6-button has ALL ON, ALL OFF, blinds and blackout shades up/down. LEDs are varied colors, so when I walk out I just hit the red button...and tell my houseguests to do the same. An LCD can be intimidating for people not familiar with the system, but it's easy to say "hit the red button when you leave"
  4. MikeNYC

    Seriously Disappointing

    I'm on 1.7.4 and lost Rhapsody several weeks ago. My system never auto-updated or auto-patched as others have, I believe. I'm also in need of the patch to get Rhapsody going again, without upgrading the system to 2.x. Any leads or anyone have access to the patch? Edit: Back up and running. Thanks to those that offered help!
  5. Hello, Often I'll be listening to a Rhapsody music channel in a room with no display or TS remote, only a 6-button or SR-250. I would love to have the ability to send a command to C4 to add the current Rhapsody song to an "On The Go" or instant playlist, like the old iPods did when you'd hold the center button. For me, there's no good way to find out what the current song is that's playing, since I have no displays and the song name doesn't show on the SR-250 display (also wish this feature existed!). If I could set up a press-and-hold on a button on my 6-button (say, hold for 4 seconds and the button light would flash for a moment) and have the song added to a list I can check later (or even better, a playlist), that would be a great feature. Or similarly from an SR-250, programming one of the colored buttons or the * button that when Rhapsody is active, that button will add the current song. I almost ALWAYS use Rhapsody in "random" or Channel mode, instead of playing specific artists... so this would be very useful to me.
  6. Time to renew my 4Sight subscription. Any dealers out there that would like to sell me one?
  7. Thecodeman, are we going to see a per-controller fee, or a flat licensing fee (in addition to the labor/truck roll that a dealer will charge)? Do people with smaller or larger systems pay the same amount for 2.0?
  8. MikeNYC

    Network Help

    Also, "Bridge Mode" is your friend when putting a wireless router behind a wired router. That'll turn it into a dumb Access Point, and prevent it from doing DHCP serving and NAT traversal as well.
  9. I'm interested in this as well... I have a Denon 2808ci that's currently under IR control. I'd love to have discrete volume as it's the only zone that lacks it. I don't currently have any free serial ports, but am considering changing my Key Digital video matrix to IR if it's worth hooking up the Denon via serial. So, I'm basically in the same boat as the original poster.
  10. MikeNYC

    HC200 problems

    As suspected, bad power bricks were at fault. Instead of dealing with my dealer that I don't have a good relationship with, I tried out a RadioShack 5V 2A power supply and correct plug... fired right back up. Bought another one for my second bad HC-200 and both were back up and running. Today a different HC-200 failed with the same symptoms. Third RadioShack power supply, and all is good again. I must say though, one HC-200 has killed two power supplies (one was replaced by dealer long ago), and two other HC-200s have had theirs die as well. Very high failure rate (3 HC200s, 4 dead power supplies, all installed under one year). At least I know what the resolution is...
  11. MikeNYC

    HC200 problems

    I returned home from being away all weekend to find problems with 2 of my 3 HC200s. The IR bug on each (plugged into Port 1) is lit up solid, and no lights are illuminated on the HC200 (none on front panel, nor the Ethernet status lights on back). The units are totally unresponsive. Evidently I lost power at some point over the weekend, I heard. Unplugging and re-plugging the power does nothing for them. I checked the voltage coming out of the power supply with a multimeter, and it's around 5.18v (the units run on 5v), so the power bricks seem fine. The other HC200, HC300 and HC1000 on my network are all fine (though there is a dimmer that's responding very sluggishly to ZigBee commands now too). Has anyone seen this happen? Anything else I can try, or do they need a trip back to the mothership via the RMA train?
  12. Zaphod- anything's possible! You could always take apart the RF remote and solder leads to the on and off switches and connect those to the relay outputs of a HC200/300/500 or Contact extender, and wire up a constant power supply instead of using batteries. But, I'd be careful controlling a gas fireplace through a hacked together method. I'm sure there's a better answer than mine (e.g. a Proper Way =) ) but I'd imagine it's doable.
  13. MikeNYC


    Neil- I've got my XBox in the rack and running into my matrix switch, and it works great! The controllers work fine wirelessly even through 2 walls and the metal rack. Obviously two different rooms can't play different games simultaneously, but with it centralized you can choose to play it in different locations just fine.
  14. MikeNYC

    Audio zones issue...

    Many thanks Rsmolo, increasing the delay from 5 seconds to 8 seconds fixed it! Now if only I had a free serial port so I had two-way control... discrete audio levels would be nice.
  15. So I've had an issue with my audio zones for quite some time now. Basically, I have two zones on a C4 Amp for audio, as well as a surround receiver (Denon) for the living room that's IR controlled and some TVs in bedrooms with their own speakers. The Denon uses two inputs... TV/Cable coming on from the matrix switch, and HDP coming in from an HC-200 output for Digital Audio. If I'm listening to digital audio in the kitchen and the Living room zone is on watching TV, when I add the Living Room zone to the digital audio everything works fine. The amp switches inputs, and all is well. The problem lays in when the Living Room zone is "off". If I am listening to digital audio in the kitchen and add the Living Room zone, the receiver powers up but doesn't switch its input from TV/Cable over to HDP. The same thing happens if no audio zones are active, and I play Digital Music in the living room...receiver comes on but doesn't switch input. If I'm listening to digital audio in the living room (via turning on watching TV then switching to digital audio) and turn the room off, next time I select TV as the source there's no audio until I toggle through my cable TV sources. In short, it seems that no commands are sent to the receiver on power-up of the room to change the source. Since it's controlled over IR, there's no two-way communication. Perhaps commands are sent but not with enough delay, and the receiver hasn't fully powered on at that point? I've thought about putting in programming watching CURRENT_MEDIA for the living room, and using some "If..." statements to manually send the input command to the receiver. But that shouldn't be necessary with this system. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!