chris.cytexone

c4Forums Administrator
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chris.cytexone last won the day on January 17

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About chris.cytexone

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    CYTEXONE
  • Birthday 09/20/1981

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  1. Just a friendly reminder that under no circumstances are any forums members allowed to post a link to Composer Pro software. This has and will always result in an immediate ban from these forums. Thanks all!
  2. Was anyone able to get this driver working for a Craftsman Garage Opener with the AssureLink adapter? Pretty sure its not compatible, but figured I'd ask.
  3. Hey all, just wanted to share this with you. Seems to be one of those things that works great for some, and barely works for others. I'm definitely in the "barely works" category. Since a bunch of my customers keep requesting them, I can't just turn a blind eye to it. Nor am I a big fan of the USB-IR adapter. So after weeks of working on this, I think I figured out a way to resolve this and wanted to share my results with everyone. This has been tested on both Fire TV Stick and Fire TV box. The main issue seems to be (or at least from what I've noticed) is if the Fire TV falls asleep, the Control4 IP driver can no longer communicate with it. So I then went on the journey of trying to figure out a way to keep this awake since Amazon for some reason does not provide any options to keep it awake. Could have went the Control4 route and setup a timer to hit the "up" button on the driver ever hour, but that could cause some unwanted distractions during viewing (and it's not a very elegant solution) Also looked into sideloading an Android app (like KeepAwake or RedEye) on to the Fire TV to keep it awake, however this seemed to produce mixed results and even appeared to add a performance hit to the Fire TV Stick. I was about to give up until I stumbled upon this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/fireTV/comments/4jc22o/nonroot_prevent_sleep_on_fireos5/ I can proudly say after settings the sleep_timeout value to 0, both the test Fire TV Stick and Fire TV Box have stayed awake and responds to Control4's command every time we pickup the remote. Now after that whole intro, some instructions on how to get this done. 1. Disconnect the Control4 Fire TV driver during this process. If it's occupying the ADB session, you can't perform the following tasks so this is key. 2. Install ADB - https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html#download (You really only need the platform tools that provides the ADB executable) 3. Find the IP address of your Fire TV, run adb from a command prompt/terminal as followed (without quotes) "adb connect fire_tv_ip_address" 4. If you received an error, check your network connections and check to make sure you have the proper IP of your Fire TV (and it's awake). You can also try turning ADB Debugging OFF then back ON to clear the sessions (this is done from the Fire TV). If no error was received, enter in "adb devices". It should show the IP of your Fire TV and after that "device". If it says "offline" after the IP, make sure Control4 is disconnected from the Fire TV and also try turning ADB Debugging OFF then back ON from the Fire TV. 5. Now type in "adb shell" and it will then provide you shell access to the Fire TV and change the prompt on the screen. 6. Type in "settings put secure sleep_timeout 0" and hit enter. Then type in "settings get secure sleep_timeout" and confirm the value returned in 0. If it doesn't return that value or gives you an error, make sure you are typing the command in properly. 7. Type "exit" or "quit" (can't remember offhand) to end the shell session, the prompt should change back to your normal command prompt/terminal prompt. Then type in "adb disconnect" to kill the ADB session. 8. Add the IP address back in to the Control4 Amazon Fire TV IP driver. Just remember, don't add quotes to any command when typing them in to a command prompt/terminal. I hope this helps those out that have continued to have control issues with Fire TV.
  4. +1 to this, very smart idea!
  5. Yep, those are it! Can't say I've ever ran into that, although I have a programming STOP after the command to send the email. I'll see if I can try a test run when I'm home and will let you know.
  6. Definitely try the Energizer Lithium batteries, it's a no-brainer and you'll actually end up saving money in the long run.
  7. Low powered batteries used to give my Kwikset lock hell. Then I switched to Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA batteries. Never had an issue afterwards and the batteries last a little over a year with the lock being used at least 3 times a day. Also, there's an Programming option for the Kwikset with the condition "Battery Is Low." Make sure to utilize that and have C4 send out an e-mail when that condition is met.
  8. It is clear from the first post OP has no Control4 training and should not be using Composer Pro. Discussion closed and user has been banned.
  9. Freely admitting hacking a controller to circumvent non-dealer access to Composer Pro deserves a ban. Under no circumstances do we condone this. This topic has been locked. That's my 2 cents.
  10. I think we're all in agreement that there's nothing to discuss here. The company failed and someone else is picking up the slack. OP should gripe to the company themselves, not show up here trying to start a war with their very first post. Warning will be issued.