RAV

You could setup specific SSIDs in specific WAPs to corral connections. It's most likely due to interference or wave propagation based on structure and AP placement. If a device sees the back or side of an AP that it's close to, that may not be the strongest signal. And dealing with devices that are outside, garages, etc gets more complicated. You've got neighbors WiFi, thermal glass, steel, concrete that have to be accounted for as well as the vendor, where did they put their antenna in relation to the mounting.

Well, the 1500 wattbox is about an inch deeper, and they're both rear fan, so if you're that tight..... However the 1100 wattbox is 3 inches shorter. And if you do have a generator is more than enough reserve, average about 30 minutes full C4/Network/DVR/Set Tops without amps.

WHY would your integrator recommend a Panamax UPS if you have Wattbox IP units? Get the Wattbox UPS, it integrates with the Wattbox units to do shedding, reports to OVRC status and battery life, etc.

Most insurance companies don't cover 'portable' devices for theft etc. Car stolen at lunch with your laptop inside, too bad. Obviously each Insurer is different so have your agent earn their commissions by asking your questions. And document, document, document.

Make sure there's a linked toggle scene, I've had the auto create toggle goof a couple times and not actually link them.

How long tech should last will be quite a discussion. With tech ever changing, it's certainly a constant moving target. Your current issue may be as simply as replacing the HC300's internal power supply. (google it)

I'll assume there's a need for HDMI switching, and small means physically - Yamaha RXS602 17 x 4 1/2 x 13. Otherwise, yeah, Triad One.

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapav/racks-accessories/strong-trade%3B-hidden-rack-shelf-with-blank-panel---1u-sr-shelf-hb-1u We've also done a standard shelf mounted to the back of the rack, secure the watt box to the shelf about a third of the way in, and then a regular blank in the front. These 2u hinge doors blank panels are awesome too. Put the HDbaseT unit on the shelf with this in front for service access. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-RKPNLHS2UStarTech-com-Blanking-Panel-Installation/dp/B00MOENS36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541520380&sr=8-3&keywords=hinged+rack+panel&dpID=3191YI%2BdO4L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Actual, I was told it wasn't Sony's fault, but (cough, cough) somebody else that broke the IR code setup as the 'database' of IR codes online is no longer reachable. It's only 5 years old, personally my bench mark for it's old/tough is 7 years. (5 years really sorry about that but tech changes, 3 that really sucks but I didn't build it, less than 3 how can I make it better, 2 or less vendor should compensate).

We stick the horizontal PDU in the middle of the rack, with a full face hidden shelf behind it. Yeah you loose 2 spaces out front (1 if you're using a front wattbox display). But now you've got a shelf to put the inline wall warts, extra cable and the like. Or Strong makes a 1/2 depth shelf, which is perfect in back of the wattbox, no space loss.

If your preamp is only HDMI 1.4, you should take a look at this switch: http://www.transformativeengineering.com/project/hds-42avr/ It has dual outputs, HDMI 2.0 to the TV and 1.4 to the preamp for audio.

Also, if you try and set it up without Control4, to use the Sony remote as a smart remote, the device can no longer access an IR library online.

Other than perhaps the TIVO you're pretty much setup that way. (Don't forget the cable distribution amplifier for Modem and Setops to work )

IF you use the Wattbox UPS units with the Wattbox IP strips, the two will talk to each other. So you can shed items as the battery runs down, in 25% increments. Also the battery health and battery time remaining get reported to OVRC cloud. It is not advisable for high draw items like amplifiers to be on a UPS. With network, cameras, nvr, director, couple cable boxes you'll get about 20minutes on the small 1100 Wattbox UPS.

Get the appropriate receptacle and cord ends and you'll be to code. http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048085b.pdf These are specific receptacles that have a bump/nose between the slots that only allow the matching lamp plug to fit into, thus avoiding someone plugging other than a lamp into them.