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About earo

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    Control4 End User

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  1. earo

    FS: Keypads + SR250

    I have a few items for sale after some upgrades: 6-Button Keypad (Brown) 6-Button Keypad (White) Four (4) 3-Button Keypads (White) SR-250 Remote (Works fine, but the battery cover is a little loose. The little tab on the battery cover broke off.) Keypads do not have cover plates. Reasonable offers considered.
  2. I need some help w/ my JAP setup to update the firmware and reset the EDIDs. I am unable to pass through the 5.1 from the transmitters to the receivers reliably. I'm a very knowledgeable end user and can have two networks setup -- one to the internet and one to the switch to facilitate remote troubleshooting. Rough set up: Dedicated Cisco SG300 switch, isolated from the rest of my network 4 2G transmitters (3 DVRs, 1 Apple TV4) 4 2G receivers 1 2G+ receiver
  3. I upgraded to 2.7 and it seemed to have been bricked during the upgrade. (Gotta love it!) Should be fine for spare parts. Best offer + shipping from NYC.
  4. Try the Niles ABS-1. I use this to switch speakers between rears on my Marantz and a Sonos Zone Amp. No programming necessary. Works great. I have it set to override the Sonos as soon as it detects a signal from the Marantz. http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=ABS-1&recordID=Automated%20Switching%20Systems&categoryID=Switching%20Systems&catcdID=&prdcdID=FG00271 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. I just saw a review of an 8-port Wi-Fi and Ethernet connected surge strip on AnandTech. Anyone ever hear of these things? Likely not given they're so new: http://www.ubnt.com/mfi#m-Power I'd like to get an inexpensive connected surge strip to remotely reboot devices. But it kills me to spend hundreds of dollars on something like this. The mPower 8 port strip is only $100. Any initial guesses on how hard it may be to integrate this into Control4 to selectively address outlets to power cycle? And, suggestions on who can make this possible? Thanks!
  6. That's what I thought until I had some serious issues swapping out a switch earlier this year. I had some major conflicts with Sonos and the Spanning Tree Protocol. Everything was working fine w/ my old (but very loud) 48 port Dell switch w/ Sonos. But then we tried swapping it out and all hell broke loose. I eventually found it easiest to go w/ an unmanaged switch to avoid the conflicts. To this day I'm still confused as to what happened, why it happened and what I could have done to prevent it. But the managed switches from Netgear and Planet simply didn't work.
  7. earo

    Ideas for Quieter POE?

    My gut was telling me the same. Go with a dedicated 10 port switch for the JAP (4 inputs/transmitters; 5 outputs/receivers) + a midspan for the 5 JAP receivers + 4 touchscreens + new regular 48 port gigabit switch. While it's a lot of coin to shell out, I sure hope it's quieter. Any tips on a quiet 48 port, non POE switch? Blackwire Kevin, any thoughts here?
  8. I currently have a 48 port Dell gigabit, POE switch for my JAP 4x4 video distribution. Everything is working fine. However, the switch is very, very loud. From what I understand, the loudness is due to 48 port switch with POE. I currently only have 8 ports that require POE (4 JAP receivers + 4 C4 7” touchscreens). Given the installation is in a tight NYC apartment, there are few options to reposition the switch to further isolate the noise. At night, you can hear it across the entire apartment despite a solid core door and some rubber weather stripping around the door for additional acoustical insulation. I am now adding another TV and JAP receiver to my setup, providing a 4 source x 5 display “matrix”. Since I am having my dealer come out and redo a bunch of other things as part of this, I’m considering alternatives, largely to address the noise issue. I feel like I have the following options: a) Suck it up, deal with the noise and buy another JAP receiver. This is by far the “easy road”. Incremental cost: ~$800 for JAP receiver + labor; No noise reduction Purchase a smaller POE switch (say a 10 port one) just for JAP and the touchscreens and replace the current 48 port switch with a non POE switch. Incremental cost: $800 for JAP + $400 for 10 port switch POE switch + $400 for add’l switch. c) Purchase the 52 port Cisco SG300 non POE switch and use POE injectors. Incremental cost: $800 for JAP + $900 for switch + $400 for inectors d) Scrap JAP and go w/ Atlona or equiv 8x8? I recognize this is largely subjective, but any advice on what might be the quietest solution would be very helpful. Whether or not it’s worth the money is a separate discussion. Thanks!
  9. Do you mean "almost" ready or "already ready"? I went to your site and only saw the v2 driver available. I just replaced my ATV v2 w/ an ATV v3. Does this require the ATV to be jail broken?
  10. earo

    Changing halogens to LED bulbs..

    For what it's worth, I've found that the Feit Electric Performance LEDs work great w/ the standard C4 dimmers: http://www.feit.com/feit_led_hiperformance.html I bought a 60W-equivalent omnidirectional at Costco for $15 to test it. After trying four other types, I was skeptical, but it worked great. I went back 2 days later and they were sold out. I found them on Amazon -- if your patient enough -- for about $17 each. I've got them in both the 60W and 70W equivalents and find that they dim down to about 10%. Even if you get them warm, they're still much whiter than incandescents and I've no embarked on a plan to replace all of them in my apt.
  11. Not sure, how would I check that? I can't find it in HE.
  12. @pharmdsmith, at times I noticed that the button was green, but mostly it's red. I honestly couldn't figure out what this meant since it rarely correlated to the lock status. As a result of the status not being updated properly, I often found that I only had the red button to lock the lock. But unlocking is much more important since I often need to let someone in rather than lock it remotely. I never have a need to lock or unlock this from within the apartment (for pete's sake, it's a tiny place), but I find the status is remarkably unreliable, even from within the apartment. So, the custom button works, but it's more or less a workaround to getting more a reliable status indication -- both within the network and remotely over VPN. Any tips to make this more reliable?
  13. I didn't really want a shortcut or a custom button. I would think that it would be logical for the options LOCK and UNLOCK to appear under the Security menu on my iPhone. Right now, the approach with the custom button works, but it also means that on all of my touchscreens I have this option front and center where it's not necessary. Godzilla, any ideas why it's not appearing here when you imply that it should? I think what would be the logical location for it, but oddly it's not there. Hopefully this image pops up fine:
  14. Ah, after I resynced the MyHome app, the custom button is now on my phone, thanks! I will have to see if I can add a few more, especially as I'll now be adding another lock since it works as intended.