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funnyfarm299 last won the day on January 9

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About funnyfarm299

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  1. Hold up. Y'all are missing a very important question. OP, are you in a 240 volt country? 2.9.1 introduced dual-load dimmers and switches for Europe/Asia. Of course, if you're in a 120 volt country, feel free to ignore me.
  2. Control4 has a TL-280 (and IT-230) driver using the "security panel" proxy, AKA the one that lets you pop up a keypad. They don't have an IT-100 driver supporting that, but Domosapians does.
  3. Add the "NX-584 RS-232 Automation Module" driver to a virtual project. All the programming fields are in the documentation for that driver.
  4. You have to use the third party driver from Domosapians.
  5. As the HEOS driver says right inside of it...
  6. If you're using the zone2/3 on an AVR, you should be using the local source driver. See KB 1663.
  7. It took almost a year for me to finally say I've achieved what I wanted with an ecobee driver. Blackwire's driver has experience buttons for the temperature sensors, programming so I can put the thermostat in away/sleep when I arm the alarm, and best of all they're very responsive. A+ would buy again.
  8. I took a guess as to which model that is, but according to the user manual (page 7/8), the K wire isn't supposed to be used. So not sure what your installer was doing there.
  9. Do you have a heat pump or a regular system? Because you're reading the heat pump labels.
  10. It's not "normal", but I've seen it before. Reboot the remote and the battery should show full again.
  11. I agree. If you just need to control a TV, Roku, and cable box, a z2IR would be a good fit here. Just make sure the room has zigbee coverage from existing controllers.
  12. Also note that using an HC-200, 300, or 500 for any audio streaming will disable advanced audio. I would say at this point, consider an HC-250 for a secondary controller.
  13. you have to have a relay driver added to the project and bound to the DS2.
  14. only when armed away. armed stay remains off.