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timbooo

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About timbooo

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  1. Are you sure you're actually using the IP driver. If you have a dealer install you might already have a flirc or something.
  2. I just did my FLIRC installation today, I think perhaps I can describe the method a bit better now. I installed a Sony BDP-S350* driver into the project, and renamed it "Amazon Fire". You can use something else, but I can vouch for this one working well. Make the relevant connections - the HDMI out and (importantly) the IR. Glue the IR bud to the FLIRC, and put the FLIRC into a laptop and load up the software. Turn on the C4 system with the new "Amazon Fire" as the source (which is actually the Sony IR bluray driver). In the FLIRC software, go through the wizard steps to assign IR codes to the Fire TV functions. Use your SR-260 / 250 for this part, so the buttons will definitely map correctly. (I chose a bluray driver because it has all the correct buttons) That's it. Now stick the FLIRC in the back of the Fire TV and it will magically work. NB: When the wizard is finished you can actually add extra codes to each command, for example I gave the Fire TV "HOME" command to both the "MENU" and "GUIDE" buttons on the remote. Likewise I set "BACK" to both "CANCEL" and "PREV". To do that, just click on the button in the FLIRC UI and press another button on the remote. It might say "already assigned" just say ok. edit: and assign both "play" and "pause" buttons to "play" on the fire remote. * you won't get a nice Fire TV icon. In theory one could make a new driver with the same codes and a Fire TV icon but I don't use touchscreens so I don't care.
  3. Then you can do it the other way around. Pick a DVD player driver from the C4 database, add it to the project, call it Amazon Fire. Use the commands from that driver to teach the flirc while it's in your laptop (stick the bud on and press the button flirc setup asks for) then move it to the Fire TV and away you go. I guess still need a dealer unless you've got your hands on composer pro.
  4. It seems a bit odd at first but once you get your head around it its very simple. You are basically assigning IR codes to operate the Fire TV, since it doesn't have its own. First you plug the flirc into your computer use their software to choose what device you want to use it with (Fire TV) You then map some IR commands to each function. Any commands you want. So you could use a TV remote or whatever. You need any device that has all the same commands. An old Apple TV remote at first seems ideal (because then you could use the C4 ATV IR driver) but it isn't quite right because there's no hamburger button or separate back/home. Actually a DVD remote is a good bet. When it's done, stick the flirc in the back of the Fire TV and whichever remote you used to program will operate it via IR. Good idea to test that. After that is the C4 part, you would create a driver and learn from that same remote. If you used a remote that already has a C4 driver you could probably skip that, but I prefer to be absolutely sure I'm mapping the right controls to the right places. OH and you'll need to stick an IR bud onto the flirc of course! Sounds long winded, but it's really not. Not the second time, anyway Apparently you also need to turn OFF adb debugging in the Fire TV settings. I hope they haven't cut off this control method too, I haven't seen any reports to suggest so. I know we have a very vocal customer who has one of these running so I think I would have heard by now and a 'true blue' friend of mine says he always uses the flirc method for Fire TVs.
  5. Hehe. Well anyway, I have installed a similar setup with a Wyrestorm Express (read: their cheap range, probably re-badged ebay fodder) HDMI switcher. Works absolutely fine. Just need to make sure the HDMI switcher you chose has discrete buttons on the remote rather than just a "cycle through" button. Once the driver is made and everything's mapped correctly C4 can do its magic.
  6. Well to anyone considering a Roku as a replacement who hasn't used one before, I can confirm the IP driver works a charm and the channels mini drivers are great (especially the way they come in a channels menu instead of filling up the Watch list like the Fire TV mini drivers did). However the "prime video" app is disappointing. The interface is super ugly, and loading is much slower than on the Fire TV. Interestingly it has a "prime" category that filters out everything that costs money, which is something the real Fire TV interface has always lacked. It's a shame because the main Roku interface is lovely. I guess they don't design the apps themselves, or they haven't touched them in a long time. I am using an old device (2XS) so maybe the new ones are different. Once my flirc arrives I'll probably go back to my gen1 4k Fire TV box.
  7. Ok 😊 that would have been my choice for sacrifice that's all. Then everything would be wonderfully simple.
  8. Network to IR output is quite vague. Control4 IR extender function owtte maybe? Ok I'll up my dose of ritalin. Anyway I'm not buying one I'll use a flirc and just use an actual C4 controller's IR out. Starting to develop an allergy to IP control of consumer devices.
  9. If you mean the IR is actually addressable from within Composer you should make a much bigger point of that, that's pretty neat and I don't see it mentioned on your website product page at all.
  10. Maybe it's just my tin foil hat talking but you might be onto something there.
  11. Hahaha this thread is about to become Intercom Anywhere mk2 🤣
  12. Lol no I don't think so, they locked up the ADB stuff presumably for security of some sort. It's broken on Crestron, RTI, everywhere else too. Except of course Logitech Harmony, the cheapest option which so often seems to work where others don't 😂 If C4 could create a Bluetooth module or something perhaps that would open up some options. Annoyingly the Fire TV obviously can be controlled over IP "proper" because there's a remote control app. But apparently they won't let anyone have the API?
  13. IKR if he can't get the launch codes then who can eh..? It would have been a super good idea to pump out an exclusive C4 driver before Amazon broke everyone else's control.
  14. Do you actually use the on-screen navigator from the EA3?
  15. Or, if you live in the UK, an $89 device. 😂 It must be really really heavy.
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