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CoolBeans

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  1. Hi, trying to see if there is enough interest for Alan or someone else to develop a driver for Flic. Please post if you have the buttons/hub/rotary dial or would like the devices and want to see integration with C4. Thanks all.
  2. Thanks guys. I managed to get this done with the C4-Z2IO. Now I need a second one of those. One less driver. Lots of fun figuring out the wiring. Got open / close working. Need another relay for stop and contact sensor. Our idea of a good time is off base.
  3. Need the tailwind driver. I already have the shelly driver. Will this work or get the intrinsic driver?
  4. I think black wire and chowmein. I prefer the chowmein driver as they look like they update it frequently. Input welcome. Want installer to purchase for me and install.
  5. Good condition. Works perfectly. The device display is a little wonky as these atlona units do but it functions perfectly with Control4, the remote, the face buttons,. Make an offer.
  6. Hi, thank all of you in advance for an assist. I have both an EA-5 and HC800 in my living room rack. The HC800 used to do more than it does now. Currently, the HC800 only turns on/off the fireplace (Relay 2), turns up the fireplace (Relay 1) and turns down the fireplace (Relay 3). I am attempting to remove the HC800 completely by moving the fireplace control to the EA-5. The problem is that the relays in both machines do not work the same. I have photographed both relay layouts on back to compare. They are identical. I used the wiring block of the HC800 and plugged directly to the EA-5. Then I changed the connections over to the EA-5. Correct Response from HC800: On/Off works, fp turns up in increments and turns down in increments Outcome from EA5: On/Off doesn't work, fp goes all the way up (no increments) and all the way down (no increments) when I hit corresponding buttons. Why 2 different outcomes?
  7. The units are all in excellent condition with original boxes and power supplies. Asking for $60 for all three of them and $10 shipping.
  8. Yes. I do use the C&S Dam-It automated valve. It is set up to be triggered by the CA/GRI event.
  9. I wanted to document for the community a work around for sensor failures from the Dam-it system by C&S Electronics. I made a substantial investment in the Dam-It system for my C4 System with 12 leak sensors and the water valve. Within two years, I have had 4 sensors fail. I can certainly buy replacement from C&S but I found the quality to be poor given the failure rate and didn't feel like dropping $420 more on their junk. Subsequently I looked into the Leaksmart system but there are issues with the sensors dropping off the hub and the driver for C4 registers a negative 1 sensor (Haven't figured that one out.) This was with version 3.0 of the Leaksmart hub. I have had CardAccess components and found them to be high quality. So..... I purchased CardAccess WCS10A wireless relay and attached GRI 2800 Leak Sensor to it. I super glued the GRI 2800 to the WCS10A, trimmed the wire and attached to relay 1. The unit was bridged to a generic water sensor in control4. Bingo! The WCS10A is about $50 on ebay new and less used. The GRI 2800 is about $15. Hope this helps someone!
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