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nevets23

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Everything posted by nevets23

  1. I tend to agree the issue is caused by EDID. However, given that the LU1E baluns work perfectly, it seems to me that something is funky with Binary Balun. Otherwise, why wouldn't this issue be present with the other LU1E baluns? I don't think there is any more setup that can really be done in the matrix itself. If you know of something specific, please share. Thanks,
  2. All, I'm in a situation where I have a Leaf 4k Matrix (6x6). Long story short, only 5 of the 6 outputs was being used. Now, I need to add the last output to the system. The remaining output is one of the HDBT outputs. As a result, I need to use a LU1E receiver, however I don't have one available (ironically, I have a couple of the Leaf HDBT extenders, but you can't use just the receiver end on them, so they're useless in this situation). As a result, I have integrated a Binary B-660 Balun, as SNAP's compatibility sheet says it should work. The issue I have is that the Binary Balun does work, but certainly not flawlessly. When switching sources, the picture comes up quickly/as it should on everything other than when switching to Apple TV 4Ks . When you switch to an Apple TV 4K, the picture does eventually show up, but it initially shows a "no signal" and then after about a minute or so, will typically show the picture. This happens no matter what 4k TV the balun is connected to, as I've tried it on multiple 4k TVs. I've also tried setting the Apple 4K Tvs to 4k (30) and many other rates to see if it makes any difference, but it doesn't. Waiting a minute for the source to work out any hdcp issues (or whatever is causing this to happen) isn't an option. It's extremely hard for me to believe I am the only one to run into this problem, as Apple TVs are extremely common. As a side note, the DIP switches that allow you to control EDID and Audio settings for the Binary receiver are on the transmitter, which I can't actually use in this situation, as it requires the output from the matrix to be HDMI. Also, all TVs in the system are 4K, so that isn't an issue. Has anyone had this issue? If so, were you able to solve it, and, if so, how? Also, has anyone tried or had any luck with any other baluns? If I had my choice, I would simply get another LU1E and call it a day, especially since it would allow IR, which I could actually use in this situation, but since it's discontinued (which is another issue all together), that's not an option....although, if anyone has an LU1E, please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  3. I just upgraded my own system to Ruckus, and am offloading my prior Luxul System. System is rock solid and really never let me down. The reason I upgraded had to do with wanting a wifi 6 system. The system includes the following items (all great condition/look brand new, other than the outdoor AP, which is great, but is simply weather faded): Two (2) Luxul XAP-1510 Access Points One (1) Outdoor XAP 1440 Access Point One (1) XWC-1000 Wireless Controller One (1) ABR 4500 Epic 4 Gigabit Router $750 for everything (I think that's reasonable, but if you feel differently, feel free to let me know and make an offer, provided it's reasonable). I'll consider selling the pieces individually, but prefer to sell everything together, as the systems works best that way. Thanks!
  4. I have an 8 zone c4 audio matrix in my rack. All zones are being utilized, and are setup correctly. While it generally works pretty well, I have been encountering the following problems: 1. If I turn on a zone (e.g. Master Bathroom), and am listening to something there, but then turn on another zone (e.g. Kitchen), the kitchen will play whatever is in the bathroom, even though you selected a different source in the kitchen (often, it may come out of only one speaker in the Kitchen and the other speaker in the kitchen will play the correct source). If you turn off the master bathroom and the kitchen, and then only turn on the Kitchen, everything works. Similar thing happens in the another zone such as the Office. Even if all of the other zones on the matrix are off, occasionally but not all the time, if I turn on the tv in the office, the speakers in the office will play a different source then what I selected. I checked all of the connections in composer and everything is connected correctly. Part of the reason I know its connected correctly is because, when the behavior described above occurs, if I reboot the HC-800, all zones will work correctly (and simultaneously) for a period of time. The issue only seems to occur if the HC-800 hasn't been rebooted in a while. It seems like the HC-800 is simply not selecting the right source on the amp, however I am honestly baffled as the HC-800 is working fine. Anyone ever experienced this before or have any ideas on how to fix it? It's fairly annoying, and it didn't always have this issue. I'm hoping there is just something I am missing from a setting standpoint.
  5. Ok, so which one is recommended? It seems like a bunch are out of stock on the Ruckus site, and the prices I've seen are kinda nuts (even higher than Luxul).
  6. Ok, so if I go ruckus unleashed, do I ditch the wireless controller, and plug the APs into the router or a switch? Also, one thing I’m curious about is how the handoff between APs will work. Luxul works pretty well, and it’s ny understanding part of that has to do with the controller coordinating everything between the APs. Will it still work seamlessly with the Ruckus APs, so a device doesn’t get stuck on an AP that’s not the best one if I move locations throughout the house? Thanks!
  7. Hi All, I'm installing a level II evse in my garage next week. The unit connects is accessible via wifi, but the wifi coverage in my garage is lackluster. As a result, I'm considering adding an AP to my garage. Currently, I have Luxul network. The Epic 5 router, along with two of the XAP-1510s and one XAP 1440 for the backyard. Overall, I've been very happy with the Luxul system. The network is very stable/reliable and I really don't ever have to restart anything. Speeds for the wifi are also very good over 5g (typically in the 290-300mbps range. If the router is rebooted, the 2.4 spectrum is fine, but quickly degrades, probably due to interference, making it pretty much unusable, although it doesn't really bother me too much, because the 5g is all I use. I have a 3600 sq. foot home, and the coverage with 5g is pretty good everywhere (other than garage). If I stick with Luxul for the new AP, I would get the Apex Wave 2 (xap 1610), as it's my only option, but it's not wifi 6. Therefore, my first question is whether or not I should take this opportunity to upgrade to wifi 6 or 6e (even though I know 6e won't provide much benefit over wifi 6 due to lack of devices that support 6e). I'm not sure why Luxul doesn't have a wifi 6 option available yet, as I would have thought they would have had something by now. If I go with the wifi 6 or 6e option, I'm thinking either Ubiquiti (Unifi6 or Unifi6 Enterprise) or Ruckus. I've never used either of those brands, but the general consensus seems to be that they're some of the best. With that being said, it doesn't seem like Ubiquiti has a wireless controller, so I'm not sure how the setup would work. If I get Unfi APs, do I just connect them to a network switch and not use my Luxul controller? Also, I'm assuming I would need to upgrade my router to a wifi 6 router, but the only wifi6 router available from ubiquiti is the dream router (the dream machine and dream machine se don't seem to be wifi6). Any insight/suggestions on any of this would be greatly appreciated. Just not sure what direct to head at this point. Thanks!
  8. Want to buy the following: (1) Square Rocker button (white) - C4-CKSR-WH (1) Square Rocker button contemporary (white) - C4-CKSR-C-WH (1) Actual bar pack (white) - C4-AB10P-WH Please pm me with price.
  9. My apologies @whatisland. I did not see your question/receive any notice until just now. The answer to your question is yes, eventually. Initially, I left the driver in the project, but just disconnected it. I also happened to have another SD card laying around, so I just set up home bridge on the extra SD card rather than overwriting the home bridge setup with the Varietas software. I figured that way if I had problems with this driver, I could always go back to the original setup. Fortunately, after some initial hiccups with this driver and subsequent bug squashing, the driver works great. The developer is great, so I highly recommend giving the driver a try. Varietas was awesome, however it didn't seem like it was kept up to date all the time, which occasionally caused it to run into issues when i0S software was updated. It also didn't easily have the ability to add other home bridge plugins. This driver solves both of those issues.
  10. I'm trying to run composer in Windows 11 (arm insider preview version - the only one available for M1 Macs) on parallels, and cannot for the life of me get the composer app to launch. It installed perfectly, but when I click to open the app, literally nothing happens. I've tried running it in all different types of modes, but nothing works. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this issue? I've seen forums where people have stated composer worked fine on their M1 MacBook Airs running Windows 10 (arm insider preview version) on parallels, so I'm not sure why it wouldn't work on Windows 11. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Steven
  11. Yes! I have 3 of the T3 in wall 10” screens and literally all of them have failed. One I was able to get replaced free (although I had to fight with C4 about it) and another I had to pay for a new backbox to get replaced (somehow that went bad). Now, the third T3 has issues with parts of the screen being completely unresponsive. I’m not saying electronics should last forever, but clearly something is wrong with these devices. They don’t have always on screens, and honestly, really don’t even get touched or used all that much, so they shouldn’t be going bad at this rate. C4 really needs to step up to the plate on these items. It certainly sounds like this is a pattern based on other accounts here, which is not at all surprising to me. I love my c4 system, but issues like this are unacceptable in my opinion at the price point of c4. These devices aren’t being driven hard, so there really is no excuse for them not lasting longer.
  12. Important update on my prior post. The driver developer reached out to me, and relentlessly worked to identify the issues that were causing the problems and correct them. The delay in initial responsiveness to my request for help was due to a major time difference. I’m happy to report that everything is now working flawlessly. The varietas driver is great, but this driver has more versatility for sure. In addition to the devices I had added to Homekit with the varietas driver, I am now able to also add cameras and other third party drivers much easier using the Homebridge UI directly in composer without any issues. I’ve also made some suggestions on additional features I think would make this driver even better, which will hopefully be implemented in a future update. Furthermore and perhaps most importantly, I’m confident that if any issues pop up in the future due to iOS or c4 updates, they will be addressed immediately. For anyone that is on the fence about this driver or who is looking for a versatile way to integrate c4 devices into Homekit, I definitely recommend the driver. Well done!
  13. My two cents thus far on this driver: I'm giving this driver a test run on my raspberry pi 3B, and so far not overly impressed due to what appears to be some bugs. First, I'm getting a warning in homebridge logs on pretty much every device that states that the web socket dti plugin generated a warning from the characteristic "XXXX". Characteristic supplied was illegal value: null!. Home app will reject null for Apple defined characteristics. ---- I don't know if this is causing problems, but I'm sure it isn't helping and doesn't happen on the Varietas homebridge plugin. Second, I connected my alarm system. It works perfectly fine in the Varietas plugin, but when I try to arm or disarm the alarm through Homekit with this setup, it just hangs, saying "arming" or "disarming." I got it to work once after rebooting HSIM, but it hasn't worked since. Third, the bond fans seem very slow in terms of response. I'm used to it being pretty snappy with Varietas. Fourth, I've noticed that cpu usage of homebridge is extraordinarily high upon restart of the raspberry pi (like at 100%) and is somewhat slow to load. Again, I'm comparing it to my experience with the Varietas plugin. I'm not sure if it has to do with the child bridges or what, but it doesn't seem right to me. It's fairly disappointing thus far, as I really wanted to like this driver. The fact that you can easily add other plugins is very appealing, but unless the developer can fix these issues, it's not reliable enough to use. I've reached out to the developer, but haven't heard anything back.
  14. Based on the screenshots of the interface, it seems like you can easily add plugins to HomeKit, correct? For example, if I wanted to integrate my nest cameras, could I just click to install the nest plugin, or do I have to manually install it?
  15. That was my first thought too. Unfortunately, none of them are on display anywhere, which is strange since it's Samsung's Flagship LED model.
  16. Ok, so I purchased the QN90A 85" TV (it's currently $1k off), but I'm curious if anyone can provide insight into something I noticed with the TV. I've noticed a "click" noise coming from the power supply outlet on the back of the TV immediately when I turn the TV on, and then about 15-20 secs after I turn the TV off. Is this normal? I have a bunch of other Samsung TV's and none of them do it. The picture on the TV looks fine, and everything seems to be working well, however the noise is making me a little worried. I don't think it's supposed to do this, and I wonder if it's an indication it's going to to go bad. Maybe an issue with a capacitor? I'm well within the return period, so I'm think about exchanging it, just to be safe, but I'm curious if this is simply normal and will happen with the replacement too. Again I don't think it is, but I can't seem to find any confirmation online Does anyone have any insight?
  17. Any one have any ideas on this setup?
  18. Ok, so I think I may have found a way around having to buy a new matrix amp. One of my audio zones currently contains three speakers. As of right now, I have two speakers hooked up to one zone, and the third speaker hooked up to a different channel/zone. I link them via composer to make it so when zone 1 comes on, so does zone 2 (with the one speaker in it). Can I not just either (1) connect the third speaker to one of the outputs in zone 1 (so three speakers are being powered by one zone/two speaker powered by the same channel) or (2) connect the third speaker in series? All three speakers are the exact same model, and are in the same room If I can do that, I can use the other free zone for the speaker I'm trying to fit. I don't know the ohms of the speakers off the top of my head, but the c4 matrix spec sheet says each channel is rated for 120w at 8 ohms or 220 at 4ohms, so I believe it should work.
  19. Ok, but could I not "daisy chain" the audio matrix to the dumb amp in order to get all of the sources to it including the cable boxes, provided they are all hooked into the matrix amp?
  20. I have a C4 8 channel audio amplifier matrix and have run out of channels (I do have one slot of a channel open, but I don't think there is any way I can use it). The issue I have is that I have a room where I'm just putting one two way speaker. As a result, I need to add another amp to the system, but I only need one channel. Since I only need to add one speaker, I'm looking for the cheapest solution to be able to hook the speaker into my c4 audio system. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good cheap one or two channel amp? Would consider the c4 four channel amplifier, but not looking to spend more than a couple hundred. Also, in order to connect everything, do I just use the digital inputs? Would something like this work: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-with-bluetooth-black/6187501.p?skuId=6187501&ref=212&loc=1&extStoreId=168&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwweyFBhDvARIsAA67M71_vEkoBYB5LLm-f9Dvx_y480FQZEajd5tJEXPyeAt_OM430UQIzIAaAkWnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds My primary concern is that there isn't any IP control, so I don't think it would work, but correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe I can use IR? Thanks in advance,
  21. For what it's worth, I don't think rtings.com is biased or paid....at least that's what they claim, and their reviews have been pretty accurate in the past.
  22. I decided to give the Samsung a try. It should be delivered tomorrow, so we'll see how it looks. The Sony 950H seems great, but it doesn't have HDMI 2.1 or mini-led, and is still $3700. The Samsung just dropped to $4500 (and I expect it to drop to $4k within the next month, and I can do a price match through Best Buy for 45 days), so the price shouldn't be that much of a difference. Plus, it has HDMI 2.1 and mini-led. Samsung doesn't have DV, which is certainly a bummer, but it isn't a deal breaker, as I believe they can always add it as a firmware update if they ever pay for the license. Honestly, if the 2021 replacement for the 950H was out already, I would consider it, since it has HDMI 2.1...my only hesitation is that Sony didn't use Mini-led on any TVs for 2021, which seems like an unintelligent move, even if it only provides an incremental boost in picture quality (I believe its better than incremental though from everything I read). If I don't like the Samsung, I'll return it and get the 2021 Sony.
  23. Thanks for the insight. Ok, I'm ruling out the TCL. Have you seen the QN90A as well? If so, how do you think it compares to the 950H or the upcoming 2021 version (not sure the Sony model number or release date for it off the top of my head)? The one thing that makes me pause with the Sony is that none of the led models (including the 2021 models) has mini-led, which makes me think the TVs won't be as good as the mini-led for Samsung.
  24. I get what you're saying, but I guess that's part of what I'm asking and stating. From a spec standpoint, it appears the TCL is pretty on par with the QN90A. Do you disagree? Also, what TV do you think the best 85" TV is right now priced at $5k or less (I'm not looking to spend more than $5k). From what I can tell, the QN90A appears to be the best option, but if you or someone else thinks otherwise, I'd love to hear your thoughts.
  25. Very true, and it looks like a great TV, but it's also $8k. Plus, I'm still a little bit concerned about burn-in, albeit I understand the risk is relatively low.
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