Hometronics-SF
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SW Florida Fort Myers/Naples
Hometronics-SF replied to antneed's topic in Looking For An Integrator?
Fort Myers/Naples here 239-300-3873 hometronicsfl.com -
Device image updater V2 crashes every time you run it to connect to any devices lol Fun stuff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Right, I downloaded it, there were 2 choices. I downloaded the 2.9.1 and newer. I loaded it up at my house and it looks like I can move my controller and io to anything from 2.9.1 to 2.10.6 so I’ll give it a shot. Appreciate the heads up
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Is that the Control4 recovery utility?
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Ok, that’s the answer I needed! At least I’m not alone. I’ll download that device image update software, I’ve never seen it before
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I did notice on the back of the screen (on the board) is a mini usb plug, I did order one of these to see if it will allow me to downgrade them. They were on 2.9.1 I think before update, so maybe could have jumped them too far from 2.9.1 to 2.10.6 causing the weird issues. I’m going to also attempt the downgrade and see if it takes it on a usb software boot. UGREEN Micro USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter Male Micro USB to Female USB for Samsung S7 S6 Edge S4 S3, LG G4, Dji Spark Mavic Remote Controller, Android Windows Smartphone Tablets 4 Inch (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FIl3CbYQR1YDR
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Yeah same kinda thing. I Got the service calls after updating these customers systems. I ordered a new back box that will be in tomorrow (as much as I have a feeling it’s not that) but will relay if that works. I’m not 100% sure on how to downgrade the software on them (if anyone knows how please let me know)
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Did you notice it happened after an update recently? Or was it a similar situation? I’m trying to figure out what caused it. All my clients with older TS and 10inch seem to be fine
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I have 3 different touchscreens (all 7 inch T3 in wall) that literally since updating to 2.10.5 or 6, the top 1 inch of the screen will not respond to the touch, almost like the calibration is off. Everything under the room choice bar (with back arrow and C4 button) works perfect, but I’ve tried moving the TS’s to different boxes and locations, not Poe, and hard wired power, I’ve tried factory reset and reconfigure. Nothing works. Anyone else seen this? If it was a one off definitely, but now 3 different locations with the same exact problem seems very strange. appreciate any ideas you have that I can try on it. Also if it helps, I replaced one with a 10 inch and it works fine now, so it’s something I think software related, I just wish there was like a calibration screen of some sort thanks
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Apologies, I just checked you’re absolutely correct, I was thinking about the delay options on the hdmi output for audio, for some reason i thought there were different options for output resolution along with it. I have no problem admitting when I’m incorrect. I had a problem with hdmi output on a controller we were pulling pandora off from for a speaker bar in a separate room. But regardless, the main point is you have hdcp/edid problems most likely as stated above.
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Not a standard option? Apologies last time I checked in the controller properties tab you could choose the output resolution on the controller. I feel like I’ve had to do it before when I was stripping audio off an ea1. If not, it was a suggestion to try as most are when your trying to help someone through a forum? Correct?
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Are you building up a showroom? Or is this all for a job/personal project
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Ahhh, ok. Apologies. I guess the next question is this, do you have something else to test video like a laptop or anything hdmi? Maybe try to bring the resolution down on the ea5 because it’s seeing the cards as 4K and the tv can’t support the resolution. When plugged in directly to the tv it automatically drops the resolution. If you are not getting video on anything, try a higher resolution tv to verify the cards aren't passing a resolution that the tv can’t handle. If the cards aren’t linking after that you definitely could have a handshake issue or just a bad set of baluns. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had bad baluns out of the box, even snap AV ones. But if there is an hdcp issue or something similar, it will block the video connection and the handshake between the tv and the baluns. Leaf are usually pretty good so I’d be surprised it was that, BUT I’ve torn my hair out for hours on a Samsung tv and handshake issues literally to find out it was an hdcp issue, not the equipment connected.
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Tell me if I’m understanding, so with the AVR no OSD, direct to TV, you do get OSD?
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I don’t mean to ask in a difficult way. I’m just trying to understand. So you say hdmi port on tv says “no signal” but your getting the onscreen with a direct hdmi cable, what is the direct hdmi cable plugged into?
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So you plug in the ea5, and press the Control4 button, (with on screen navigator connected in the room under connections) you don’t get a pop up screen? try it connected and reboot it, it should show a boot screen with Control4 logo. It doesn’t constantly output video only when the Control4 button is pressed and the on screen for the room is made in the connections page for that room
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All buttons on the face of the module? Or all buttons as in the keypads? If your keypads aren’t controlling the loads, the module isn’t connected correctly in C4 or you have an ip conflict, where the module can’t pull an IP address. Any new router or network devices added recently? You should see the module on an ip scan.
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I’ve used the MOIP with pakedge SX and RK1, worked great. I’ve never had a lot of luck with the Araknis gear, I usually rip it out on any takeover to avoid the service calls. JAP is always great, especially with their pre configured switches designed for it. Tech support is great like snap, but I have had some JAP’s die in the field. They were replaced quickly, but when they worked, they worked well. Sorry for the late reply on this, it caught my eye scrolling, figured I’d throw an experience that may save you time and headache
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Hey, i mentioned this in an earlier thread. I’ve had this issue with Marantz and denon before. I’ve found if you use a hdmi splitter it strips the HDCP issues it sounds like you’re talking about. I’ll link below what I use, they work awesome for these exact problems, I keep a handful in stock because of this. A lot of times it’s that or the HDMI2.0 and your TV or balun is HDMI1.4 for example too. This cuts all that out and makes a solid handshake with the receiver and whatever it’s feeding. gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60Hz HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter - YUV 4:4:4, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Low Heat, Cascadable, Firmware Upgradable, 4 Port 1 in 4 Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqzYCbA9W9851 you can do the 1x2
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gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60Hz HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter - YUV 4:4:4, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Low Heat, Cascadable, Firmware Upgradable, 4 Port 1 in 4 Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r4xYCb8QTHVRK I put these between my Apple TV and receiver or between receiver and tv. Usually fixes all those weird handshake picture issues.
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Try a cheap hdmi splitter, works every time for handshake issues.
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That box you posted there (at least here in most of the US) you would use if you are installing 110/220v dimmers or keypads. You CAN use the orange ring ones (mud rings) for anything under 90v AC you should probably just use the double gang blue boxes, then you’re always safe. Carlon B225R-UPC Switch/Outlet Box, Old Work, 2 Gang, Blue 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1BVQKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_10xYCbKDGQXJF With high voltage, it’s definitely a lot safer, and they seem to sit better on the Sheetrock with keypads and dimmers anyway. hope that helps!
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DS2 intercom prob- TS too
Hometronics-SF replied to Hometronics-SF's topic in Troubleshooting, Workarounds, & Bugs
Sorry such a late reply to this, it ended up being an update that fixed it from Control4. everything has been working fine since, thanks for all the help -
If your keypads are running on high voltage they should be in a blue box (which is a fully enclosed box) the mud ring as you show there can be purchased anywhere at any hardware store, even amazon (2 gang mud ring or cut-in box low voltage)
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That’s a standard low voltage mud ring (the orange box)