abovedeck

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abovedeck last won the day on May 4

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About abovedeck

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    Control4 End User
  1. Garage door sensor setup?

    Ohhhhhhhh, I didn't understand. Now I do. You want to avoid polling and go direct to C4. Gotcha. I was gonna say another way is if you have an alarm panel connected to C4, you can always add a tilt sensor and bind it to c4. But card access like everyone said is probably your best.
  2. Control4 3.0

    This would be cool to have. I have an SR260 in most rooms as well as a T3 and I use the remotes daily. All of my amps are IP so they give two way. When my dealer updated me to 2.1, I noticed that the remotes updated as well and there was an orange percentage display at the top of the sr260 screen next to the clock showing update time. Seems like a no brainer to use for volume on a daily basis.
  3. Garage door sensor setup?

    wait, you have a myQ system and are using the houselogix driver? If you buy a Vera and add it to your system, you can actually control and see the status from C4. @dcovach knows this setup.
  4. THAT WOULD BE SWEET IF YOU COULD ACTUALLY PROGRAM THE KEYS THAT WAY!
  5. blinking kd120

    is it bad for the device to set up a program that gets one of the LEDs blinking for hours? was thinking of creating a macro for when the garage doors are open that would change the led from red to white over and over and over again until closed.
  6. programming suggestion

    my programming is set to turn monitor on when system is disarmed. In the morning when I disarm the alarm, c4 sends a "on" command to the monitor. That turns off the tv because like I said, on and off are really just a power toggle. I think I just figured it out though and what I was kinda asking... ill just set the programming like this: when alarm is disarmed If security monitor is off Turn on that way in the morning since it's already on it won't send out a command. Easy fix. Not sure why I didn't think of this before 😂
  7. programming suggestion

    have a vista 20p using the houselogix hsim. also use a lcd monitor for camera viewing. I set up a program so that the tv shuts off when I arm the system during the day (when im not home), turns back on when I disarm the system, switches to energy saver mode when system is armed and the time daytime variable is false, and turn back to regular when the daytime variable changes and daytime is true. The problem I'm running in to is that when I disarm the system in the morning after being in "stay mode," my programming turns the tv "On" but because of the manufacturers IR settings, on and off are kind of the same. I think the IR blast for ON and OFF are actually one POWER button that toggles. So even though C4 send out a "ON" signal when the alarm panel is disarmed, it actually turns the monitor off. I'd like to program it so that nothing happens with the TV monitor when the system goes from being armed stay to disarmed. But I don't think you can program that way with a vista 20p. So any creative suggestions? I thought about setting up a scheduled time ie when system is disarmed if time is between 10am-10p turn security monitor on This way the monitor wont turn off if I disarm the system in the morning, but sometimes I may not leave the house till later so this wouldn't work well. So, any thoughts? THANKS.
  8. Yeah, so there is a tab called "conditionals." It's on the right. That allows you to set "ifs" You can set multiple conditionals for one favorite button since the variable will always be changing. you just have to make sure to put in a "stop" which you will find under PROGRAMMING CONTROL on the right actions tree all the way at the bottom. To program off of these "if conditions," drag the new condition to the script window. once the if is there you can then set your actions to be based off of those conditionals. So drag your action to the script window and place it OVER the conditional. This will result in the action being indented under the conditional and this action will only execute when the condition has been met. FYI-- Not sure how your set up is, but simply turning kitchen audio zone on might not be enough. You'd probably still have to then SET THE SOURCE. Again, this is going to be based on your setup.
  9. So I've never tried creating a custom button on the remote, but I do know that if you click "listen" and then go to Zones, it allowes you to add the current room to the others. I've created custom buttons on wall keypads that automatically join the room to another rooms current session, but this is done through digital media and I do not believe that your TV falls in to that category. I may be wrong about that but am pretty sure this applies to audio being streamed through C4 native apps. EDIT: I mean, you could always program one of the remote dots like this: Select the favorite 1 on the left tree when favorite button 1 is pushed if the source in great room is television (you find this under the ifs) set the source in kitchen to television Stop if selected source in kitchen is televison set source to none (or turn room off) (i forget what the options are here actually) That would let you toggle the same button to turn the kitchen on and off without turning the satellite box off. Something like that should work... Does that make sense?
  10. Positive. Powerview hub and the little antenna looking repeaters, not platinum bridge. And I don't have Luminette yet it still is noisy. Slow as in response. I've dealt with my HD dealer several times about this issue. I have enough repeaters, I have optimal placement of them. HD is releasing a new hub that is supposed to be more wifi based rather than RF so we'll see if that makes a difference. But like I said, this has been my experience and I would never buy another HD shade product. I have another home with wired Lutron shades and it works flawlessly. I spent a lot more but if I were to do it all over again, the extra money is worth the silence and responsiveness.
  11. You're going to spend about 1k per window if you go the route of Serena/hunter Douglas and closer to 2k for Lutrons more advanced dealer options. In my experience, I'd do wired control all the way. Radiora, rf, zigbee... they're all OK, but they miss signals here and there. It's frustrating to have four shades lower but not the fifth. I'd rather have battery operated motor but wired trigger/control over wired motor and rf trigger/ radiora Lutron is is going to be quietest and most expensive. The hunter Douglas PowerView are noisy and slow-- you get what you pay for. But they do the job. I have PowerView in one home and the rf signals get missed a lot. I have Lutron in another and had similar issues so hardwired and have never had an issue.