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livitup last won the day on March 6

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About livitup

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    Control4 End User
  1. Set Default Room for SR remotes?

    My C4 install was a re-install by a new dealer of a pre-owned system in a new house. They added a lot of new product to it, but the remotes were part of the equipment that came with. It's a new house, and when they installed the system, we were not really sure where we would use the remotes, or how we would be interacting with the house. I had no idea where I would use the remotes most of the time, during our pre-planning meetings, during our system design, or on install day. I wasn't taken advantage of, I got the answer to my question, and yesterday my dealer moved them to their real rooms. Problem solved, happy customer!
  2. Set Default Room for SR remotes?

    Because he asked me where we wanted to put the 6 remotes and I was a bit overwhelmed with everything else that was going on that day, and I said "can you just stick them somewhere until I figure out where I want to put them?" After ~3 months using the system, they have pretty much settled down and I know where I want them. I'll ask him to move them to the proper rooms and delete the "Remotes room". Pretty sure that was his intention all along - I just wondered if it was something I could do without bothering them. Thanks!
  3. In my case, when I asked for the same thing (let the TV stay on while I switch to music) I ended up with duplicate rooms for all my video zones, with "<roomname> Speakers" as the new room. So for example, I had "Office" before, and now I have "Office" and "Office Speakers". I have no idea how the bindings are set up, but I only ever use the original rooms... I can select Office, select watch, then select listen, and the TV stays on but the audio changes to my listen source. I've been meaning to hide the "<roomname> Speakers" rooms - I don't think I ever need to select them for anything. Edit: Re-reading your post - I think my way the room remote is now controlling the Listen source, so I lose remote control of the video source. If I switched to the "speakers" room prior to hitting listen, I bet I would be able to switch back to the original room and have remote control over the video source. Maybe I won't hide them after all.
  4. As per title, simple question that I can't seem to find the answer to. Using HE, or the remote itself, can I change the default room that a SR-250 or -260 flips to when it wakes up? My dealer put all mine in their own room called "Remotes" and after some amount of time they all go back there (overnight or something).
  5. Yes you can adjust it, but I also have the same setup, but it works perfectly without any adjustment. Weird. I would have your dealer look at it if possible, as it may be a more fundamental issue. If you want to try to fix it through adjusting delay, you can delay the video to (hopefully) line up with the audio. This is from the properties of my Leaf 10x10 HDMI matrix: Outputs 9 and 10 are HDMI (not HDBaseT) which is presumably why you can't delay them.
  6. I have a ton of rooms, and they all have different Watch and Listen menu layouts. Is it possible to easily copy these settings to all/some of my rooms?
  7. No ideas, but same combo works fine here. Define “does not work”... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Depends on how you are planning on triggering door motion. If like me, your plan is to solder extension wires on a remote control, as shown upthread by @BraydonH, and assuming your main controller is within radio range of the garage doors - Then, you could use a single Z2IO in "Option 2" mode, installed in the garage, to do the sensors for 2 doors, and have the remote wired into a controller relay directly. However, if you're going to do it that way, you might as well use the Nyce tilt sensors, as two of them are cheaper than one Z2IO. If your plan is to not use a remote, and instead hook your garage door directly into C4, then the Z2IO would be a better choice, and yes, you'd need one per door. My openers will not allow me to do that, as they do not have simple two-wire triggers - even the wired wall switch is a multi-wire, multi-button affair.
  9. Video Distribution in new house

    3 Cable Boxes and three apple TVs going into the matrix, 8 video zones, 4 residents. Prefer the clean look of TVs on walls and no cable boxes or apple tvs or other devices visible. Also prefer leasing three cable boxes over 8 cable boxes. Yes, I realize the cost of the video matrix will take decades to recoup through reduced equipment leases. Have enough of each source that anyone in the house can watch it on any tv. Have yet to run into the case where all 4 residents want to watch a different TV channel, but frequently have 2 or 3 running at the same time. 7 of the 8 TVs are wall mounted without an entertainment center or any other furniture around to put the cable box and apple tv in. We entertain a lot - having all the TVs showing the same, synchronized feed of the superbowl is a huge deal for me. We've had very minimal stability problems. Think we've only had to call the dealer out once since installation, and that was a problem that impacted a single video display zone. To each their own - my solution is not right for everyone, but it was for me, and might be for others.
  10. Video Distribution in new house

    Sonic is right, though they don’t say who the manufacturer is on them, and I have no idea. I’ll see if they left one of the boxes behind. Someone might recognize them... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Input on Panelized Lighting

    I don’t know nuttin’ bout panelized lighting, other than that my builder refused to discuss installing it. Replying just to say I love your house, and if you’re willing to share pictures when it’s done, I’d love to drool over them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Video Distribution in new house

    We had almost the exact same thing done about 3 months ago. Same Leaf Matrix, plus an AMS-24 Triad matrix for audio. We have a one-generation-old Sony, 5 LGs, one older-than-dirt but still love it DLP, and a projector. In addition, 4 of the zones have local audio sources (game consoles) whose audio is fed back into the matrix for getting sent to in-ceiling speakers. This works perfectly. I know some dealers are squeamish about it, but for us it's been flawless. The audio is extracted from the TV's TOSLINK port, converted to run over CAT5 with a Balun, and then converted back at the main rack to go into the audio matrix. The solution works flawlessly with both the external-local sources and with smart apps on the TVs themselves. Second the recommendation on the Annex4 LG driver. It's awesome! And with the audio going back into the matrix, I can play the streaming content locally, but with the sound coming through the architectural speakers. The Sony and the LG TVs are all 4K/HDR. The projector I have is "faux k" - it accepts a 4k signal, and uses a 1080i chip with pixel-shifting to make a 4K equivalent experience. We use a Kaleidescape and UHD-DVD player, and it's incredible. One thing to note is that there aren't any projectors under $50,000 that will do 4:4:4 @ 60fps. The HDMI spec doesn't even go that high. I'm limited to a max of 4:2:2/24 if I want HDR. This is a limitation of the HDMI chipset used in my (and the vast majority of brand/models) projector. For more on this topic, head over to AVS Forums and heat up some tea, because it's an epic rabbit hole you are heading down. I used CAT6 for all the HDBaseT connections, and CAT5e for everything else, and so far it has worked flawlessly.
  13. Meh, more like "We don't expect Custom Integrators and C4 Programmers to be Network Engineers too, even though our products, and the integration of our products within other home automation components is very complex. Therefore, we will eliminate as many possible causes of issues, so as to avoid needing to train the installation force how to properly configure them. As a 20+ year IT pro specializing in networks and system engineering, I always shake my head at the STP one. The IGMP Snooping one is also a head-scratcher... One does not "register" with a switch to receive multicasts. The whole point of IGMP Snooping is that it's automagical and transparent to both the multicast source and destination. That whole KB article reads like it was written by exactly the kind of person that C4 is trying to protect themselves against with the recommendations - someone who doesn't really understand networks. But like I said, meh whatever. My system runs great on a heavily managed network with STP and IGMP Snooping turned on.
  14. My phone is always in the holder within eyesight and reach. My garage door opener remote is either in my center console or another storage cubby that is blocked by my phone. Yes, I get that it's more taps/swipes to use the C4 (or any other app) than a physical button. Depending on how much I hate the app route, I may buy the HomeLink compatibility kit anyway. Having HomeLink working does not solve my entire problem set, but having C4 integration might. My new openers use what Liftmaster calls "Security 2.0" and I suspect is just a newer/more secure version of the rolling code technology that replaced DIP switches. It requires a new version of the HomeLink software, that comes pre-installed in cars produced near/after the introduction of Security 2.0, but isn't available for cars produced prior to this "innovation." OMG. Nyce Sensors. Where have these been all my life. This, plus the remote hacked into the relay ports on the controller should do the trick! Off to chat with a dealer.
  15. Valid points that made me re-examine my goals here. However, they are still valid because: 1) I hate the remote clipped to the visor. Hate it even more buried in the car somewhere. 2) My newfangled openers aren't compatible with the HomeLink transmitters in any of my cars. 3) Ergo, due to 1 and 2, I have to buy some kind of box anyway, even if it's just the HomeLink adapter. 4) My wife is OCD about the garage doors being shut at night 5) I frequently tell my wife that they are shut, even though I'm not sure, because I don't want to get out of bed to check. 6) Ergo, due to 4 and 5, a green light on a wall keypad visible from the bed, would be a huge plus. Thanks for making me think, though!