livitup

And it sounds like OP is an end user. Composer Pro is only available to authorized dealers, the Home Edition can’t add new devices to a system. One of the remote programming experts on this forum would probably be more than happy to help you out.

Think of connections as the virtual representation of the physical wires that run to and from your system.
There is an HDMI cable between your Roku (or cable box or whatever) and your AVR, and another HDMI cable between your AVR and your TV.  Both of these would be configured in Control4's connections - the HDMI out from your Roku would be connected to the input on the AVR, and the HDMI out from the AVR would be connected to the input on the TV.
With lighting, connections allow installers to "bind" a light switch or dimmer to more loads than the locally wired load, or to bind keypads, etc. that don't even have a load wired to them to control lights.  The lighting scenes created in the Advanced Lighting Agent also expose a connection point, in the same vein as the HDMI on the back of the TV.  Likewise with the light switches and keypads.  So if I use the connections tab to link the output of a keypad button with the input of an advanced lighting scene, that button on the keypad now controls the lights.
The connections/binding method is generally viewed as slightly more reliable, quicker to activate/deactivate, and more likely to "just work".  However, as you know, the downside is that they can't be modified with Composer HE.  You can change the contents of the scene, but you can't remove or add the scene from a button.  The same end effect can be done with programming: "when the button is tapped, then active scene x."  This takes slightly more processing power however, and in a very busy system can seem very slightly laggy.

Think of connections as the virtual representation of the physical wires that run to and from your system.
There is an HDMI cable between your Roku (or cable box or whatever) and your AVR, and another HDMI cable between your AVR and your TV.  Both of these would be configured in Control4's connections - the HDMI out from your Roku would be connected to the input on the AVR, and the HDMI out from the AVR would be connected to the input on the TV.
With lighting, connections allow installers to "bind" a light switch or dimmer to more loads than the locally wired load, or to bind keypads, etc. that don't even have a load wired to them to control lights.  The lighting scenes created in the Advanced Lighting Agent also expose a connection point, in the same vein as the HDMI on the back of the TV.  Likewise with the light switches and keypads.  So if I use the connections tab to link the output of a keypad button with the input of an advanced lighting scene, that button on the keypad now controls the lights.
The connections/binding method is generally viewed as slightly more reliable, quicker to activate/deactivate, and more likely to "just work".  However, as you know, the downside is that they can't be modified with Composer HE.  You can change the contents of the scene, but you can't remove or add the scene from a button.  The same end effect can be done with programming: "when the button is tapped, then active scene x."  This takes slightly more processing power however, and in a very busy system can seem very slightly laggy.

The back boxes are compatible, you should be able to swap them out without doing any drywall work.


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There are two Concord4 drivers, one old one and one new one. If your GUI has the “big round button” on the alarm page, you’re using the new one.



The new one will continue to work. If you’re still on the old one, a dealer can swap out the driver as part of the upgrade process.


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There are two Concord4 drivers, one old one and one new one. If your GUI has the “big round button” on the alarm page, you’re using the new one.



The new one will continue to work. If you’re still on the old one, a dealer can swap out the driver as part of the upgrade process.


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There are two Concord4 drivers, one old one and one new one. If your GUI has the “big round button” on the alarm page, you’re using the new one.



The new one will continue to work. If you’re still on the old one, a dealer can swap out the driver as part of the upgrade process.


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If any of the following are in the project, the upgrade will be blocked until they are removed:

Controllers (1): HC-250
Touch Screens (5): 7" In-Wall v2, 7" Portable v2, 5" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity Edge), 7" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity
Edge), 7" In-Wall RevB (FKA: Infinity Edge)
Door Stations (2): Exterior Door Station, Interior Door Station
AV (1): Speaker Point
IP cameras that utilize the Camera Proxy v1
WakeUp agent (can be replaced with the Wakeup/Goodnight agent)
Security systems that utilize V1 Security drivers
Blinds that utilize the Blinds v2 proxy


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If any of the following are in the project, the upgrade will be blocked until they are removed:

Controllers (1): HC-250
Touch Screens (5): 7" In-Wall v2, 7" Portable v2, 5" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity Edge), 7" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity
Edge), 7" In-Wall RevB (FKA: Infinity Edge)
Door Stations (2): Exterior Door Station, Interior Door Station
AV (1): Speaker Point
IP cameras that utilize the Camera Proxy v1
WakeUp agent (can be replaced with the Wakeup/Goodnight agent)
Security systems that utilize V1 Security drivers
Blinds that utilize the Blinds v2 proxy


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There is a supported QMotion driver. Obviously not sure what one is in your project, but worst case your dealer will have to swap out the blind driver as part of your upgrade. (But if I were a betting man, I’d say you already have the compatible driver installed.)


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There are two Concord4 drivers, one old one and one new one. If your GUI has the “big round button” on the alarm page, you’re using the new one.



The new one will continue to work. If you’re still on the old one, a dealer can swap out the driver as part of the upgrade process.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know if new software is available yet?  I assume it would come in the form of new NVR firmware?

I just set this up - one Spotify driver for each room, with "Auto Room Select" for the room.  It powers on the room and switches the input to Spotify as soon as you start streaming to the Spotify Connect "zone".
For the AMS matrix, there is a Parametric EQ available through Composer, including HE.  
Shoot me a PM if you need help setting up the Spotify stuff.

My 2 cents, for what it's worth...
My car integrates components from MANY manufactures.  So do jet planes.
When my throttle gets stuck and I can't stop and I drive into a wall, who gets the blame?  Ford, or the company that sourced the throttle cable, or maybe the computer chip that opened the throttle?
When a fan blade separates from a jet engine, slicing through the cabin and killing someone, who gets the blame?  Did a "GE Powered Passenger Plane" have a fatal accident, or did a "Southwest Plane" have a fatal accident?
Control4 is not so unlike Ford or Southwest, that when their product (which is really built off 1000s of other products with C4's "glue" as the secret sauce) fails, then C4 fails... not Sony, not Samsung, not Apple, not the crappy network in the house... Control4 fails.
Control4 knows they have a complex set of kit, and posts on this forum notwithstanding, it works to the customer's satisfaction the majority of the time.  A lot of that is because of the dealer network.
If I were C4, I would weigh the amount of additional revenue from DIYers, offset by the loss of revenue from people who muck it up and trash the reputation, making the non-DIY customer wary of "that C4 junk" and make a business decision about their distribution, installation, and support model.
Oh, wait... I bet they did.

First off, I in no way, shape, or form intended "DIYer" to be derogatory. I am a "maker" at heart and constantly DIY stuff.
The problem is that C4 has no way of being able to tell if an individual is capable of making a C4 system sing like Pavarotti, or William Hung.  In the case of the former, the upside to C4 is probably relatively low, compared to the large downside of the latter (IMHO).
 Poorly trained and unqualified dealers are a blight on the ecosystem. But at least Control4 has the ability to remove them from the ecosystem (not that they're particularly good at it).
Control4 would have NO ability to remove DIYers that do a bad job from the ecosystem.
They have made the choice of (ignoring for a moment the issue of untrained/unqualified dealers) retaining control over their ecosystem.  I have faith that, as a successful public company, they made that decision after significant analysis and thought. I actually wish that individuals had access to Composer, but I can understand the risk to the brand image that C4 has worked hard to build, and I can understand, agree with, and respect their decision.
Hey, it could be worse... We could be on a Crestron forum.  

My 2 cents, for what it's worth...
My car integrates components from MANY manufactures.  So do jet planes.
When my throttle gets stuck and I can't stop and I drive into a wall, who gets the blame?  Ford, or the company that sourced the throttle cable, or maybe the computer chip that opened the throttle?
When a fan blade separates from a jet engine, slicing through the cabin and killing someone, who gets the blame?  Did a "GE Powered Passenger Plane" have a fatal accident, or did a "Southwest Plane" have a fatal accident?
Control4 is not so unlike Ford or Southwest, that when their product (which is really built off 1000s of other products with C4's "glue" as the secret sauce) fails, then C4 fails... not Sony, not Samsung, not Apple, not the crappy network in the house... Control4 fails.
Control4 knows they have a complex set of kit, and posts on this forum notwithstanding, it works to the customer's satisfaction the majority of the time.  A lot of that is because of the dealer network.
If I were C4, I would weigh the amount of additional revenue from DIYers, offset by the loss of revenue from people who muck it up and trash the reputation, making the non-DIY customer wary of "that C4 junk" and make a business decision about their distribution, installation, and support model.
Oh, wait... I bet they did.

I'm heavily considering using this solution for outdoor landscape lighting.  However, like RobbieF, I'd love some real world examples.  Everything I can find on the Internet is stage/DJ lighting or large commercial installations. There's so many lights out there, with a huge range of pricing from cheap to horribly expensive - I'm just scared to take the risk on a large investment to never get it "right".
Does anyone have any photos or links to products where DMX has been used for residential landscape lighting?
Thanks!

Valid points that made me re-examine my goals here.  However, they are still valid because:
1) I hate the remote clipped to the visor.  Hate it even more buried in the car somewhere.
2) My newfangled openers aren't compatible with the HomeLink transmitters in any of my cars.
3) Ergo, due to 1 and 2, I have to buy some kind of box anyway, even if it's just the HomeLink adapter.
4) My wife is OCD about the garage doors being shut at night
5) I frequently tell my wife that they are shut, even though I'm not sure, because I don't want to get out of bed to check.
6) Ergo, due to 4 and 5, a green light on a wall keypad visible from the bed, would be a huge plus.
Thanks for making me think, though!

Valid points that made me re-examine my goals here.  However, they are still valid because:
1) I hate the remote clipped to the visor.  Hate it even more buried in the car somewhere.
2) My newfangled openers aren't compatible with the HomeLink transmitters in any of my cars.
3) Ergo, due to 1 and 2, I have to buy some kind of box anyway, even if it's just the HomeLink adapter.
4) My wife is OCD about the garage doors being shut at night
5) I frequently tell my wife that they are shut, even though I'm not sure, because I don't want to get out of bed to check.
6) Ergo, due to 4 and 5, a green light on a wall keypad visible from the bed, would be a huge plus.
Thanks for making me think, though!

We are having a Black Friday and Cyber Monday SALE
35% OFF
Your entire purchase no limitations, all drivers included, heck buy a years worth of drivers.
CODE: GOBBLEGOBBLE
While you are at it you can even throw some FREE Doorbird licenses in your cart.

Picked up 3 more LGs (Black Friday is my weakness)... so yeah...

Picked up 3 more LGs (Black Friday is my weakness)... so yeah...

Just picked up two LGs... the original plan was to put them in my basement, but after seeing this driver in action, they may need to take a more prominent place in the house.

Just picked up two LGs... the original plan was to put them in my basement, but after seeing this driver in action, they may need to take a more prominent place in the house.