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About RussDraper

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    Control4 End User

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  1. RussDraper

    Amazon Dash Buttons?

    I know that you can "hack" the regular buttons by running a network sniffer to catch the request and by not completing the setup it won't actually order anything. It would be up to you to then trigger something in C4. I don't think it would work natively, but if there is enough interest a product could be created (edit - I just saw the post above detailing a product in the works already). Here's some good links on how others have made this work: https://blog.cloudstitch.com/how-i-hacked-amazon-s-5-wifi-button-to-track-baby-data-794214b0bdd8 https://blog.cloudstitch.com/i-turned-my-baby-dash-button-hack-into-a-pager-for-toddlers-2cde1e59769a https://www.networkworld.com/article/2991411/internet-of-things/hacking-amazons-dash-button.html I personally would add a step on my home firewall to block the dash buttons from talking to the internet so you *really* can't accidentally order anything online. Good luck!
  2. I'll try the Pro and see if that works then. I didn't even notice the regular ones don't have IR! Thanks!
  3. I have a legacy C4 system with 2.5.3 and I don't feel it is worth the cost to upgrade. But I would like to see what I can do with what I already have. All of my media is on a NAS, movies get ripped to it and I use a combination of Nvidia shield, XBMC/KODI, and WDTV Live boxes to play the content. The prior owners had DirecTV and Verizon hookups and there are 3 inputs available on the system now that I could use. I would like to just use 3x nvidia shields and have the C4 remotes work with them but it seems I need to have at least 2.7 to use the Chowmein/XBMC plugin. I am not tied to any particular player, I just want something that can mount a NAS/Windows/SMB share and play videos (avi, mkv, mp4, etc). I have several computers that could be used instead of a particular device. I'd rather not do anything too expensive, as I could always just put a Nvidia shield on each TV and solve the issue. I'd prefer something central that could work with my existing 8x8 input switcher. What would you do?
  4. No, I am saying IF IT BREAKS. Right now it is fine, and I will leave it. But what I have now isn't working flawlessly, it is mostly working but some things are not. I presume your system does work, because you pay someone to maintain it or install it. So my equivalent saying is "if this old truck breaks I will replace it with another truck that I can repair myself". I am comparing it to the previous (free) system I had before. I had multi-room A/V with automation, lighting control, garage door openers, cameras, security system, voip calls from front door and more. It was an open-source system called LinuxMCE. It was entirely setup by myself and there were no dealers for support, only the volunteer developers. Most people would not go this route, but it was what I was used to and had prior without issue. So in my case I prefer a system that I can work on myself, as that is what I am used to.
  5. You hit the nail on the head to my point, the argument is I can CHOOSE to pay or I can CHOOSE do to it myself. I can change my oil myself, I have done it in the past, but I choose to pay someone. I can choose to do the car repair work or I can choose to pay someone else. I don't have to pay Comcast to install the cable box, I just plug it in! Same thing with C4, but there is no choice, the only other choice is none at all. This is a long thread for something that is resolved for now. I am amazed at the backlash from the community (not very welcoming, I have never seen this with any other product/service). I did pay a dealer to come out and fix things for now, but if it breaks in the future and I cannot fix it, then I will replace it with a DIY solution. Since that is the only real choice I have and I cannot justify the cost.
  6. RussDraper

    FS: (2) Embernet Dimmers LDZ-102 White

    I have an older system, not sure if I have embernet or zigbee though, how can I tell? I have many LDZ-102 dimmers now.
  7. Not sure where the hate is coming from, lets put it in another context: I don't to have to pay to perform simple tasks. For example I don't want to have to pay a plumber to change an air filter in my HVAC. I don't want to pay an electrician to plug in devices into outlets in my home. I don't want to have to pay Comcast to change the channel or when I add a TV. I don't want to pay C4 to add or change devices. If I have to pay C4 every time then I would be replacing the system. If the situation arises where I want to do something complicated or add substantial new functionality then I would potentially be ok with paying for it. But coming from an environment that did everything that C4 does for no cost to something I have to pay for and have vendor lock-in isn't something I want to do. If there is some minor cost that might be ok, but it depends on the situation. C4 is a luxury convenience item, nothing it does is really necessary and can all be done manually. For me the price point to justify it is probably lower than it is for others here. I am a technologist, so I have a mindset of being able to do it myself for technology problems and can't justify the expense. Right now everything that C4 does I had with my old (free) automation system, including an app on my phone. I understand I am in the minority. I didn't agree to have my house under someone else's control, the prior owner did. That agreement ended when he sold the house to me. If I can keep the system I will, but if it causes headaches I'll take it out. If I can buy new hardware and add it to my system that is acceptable and I will keep it.
  8. Another update: The system is much better after the dealer came out, whole-house audio works and using the app on my phone is an acceptable replacement for the broken tablets. I haven't swapped the DirecTV for another media player or anything yet as we haven't had time, so for now we just use the theater and other tv's manually (remote controls). I finally had a chance to dig around a bit. Some helpful members here pointed me to how to get around dealer requirement, turns out the software I had needed a patch and now I can at least add devices. For now I'll spend a little more on adding common light switches into the system, but I don't think I'll be upgrading Control4 much beyond what I have. I'd upgrade many other things before I would pursue this more I think. Thanks everyone for your help!
  9. Ok, an update. I did some more testing, and discovered that at least 1 of the network switches was broken, so I replaced it. I have ordered replacement switches for everything now. The dealer came out, and was able to fix most things. Both wireless tablets seem to be DOA, when they were working just fine right before closing. They just don't connect. I wonder if perhaps they just won't connect to Eero, I will replace with a different AP. The dealer was nice enough to give me a license for Android, so I can buy some used android tablets to replace the broken C4 wireless tablets. I've read there is a zwave module, if I can add it as a slave controller then I can add a zwave master controller and add whatever devices I want to later. I haven't given up on this system just yet.
  10. I like how several of you guys replied without reading much of the thread. I already tried network reset, it doesn't work properly. I can sort of force it to get an IP with a cheapy little DHCP server program running on my laptop, but as soon as I plug that switch into the rest of the network it seems to request a new IP from the Eero and that doesn't work. I can disable the DHCP server but it still forgets its IP assignment after about 15 minutes. TTL is set for 24hrs in DHCP. I ran a packet sniffer, it really does forget and starts sending out DHCP requests again. I tried swapping the switch to a known clean Layer2 switch with no effect. I gave it a different IP via DHCP in case something else was using that IP and same end result. Perhaps this controller is dead, or if I had the software I could do something with it. I want this to work because there are at least 30 light switches and at least 10 6x panels already in the house in addition to a huge amount of electronics gear. I am not sure why I would need to upgrade the controller, I don't need a faster controller just to send serial connection or IR to devices in the house! I agree it would be nice if it was all HDMI, but I'm not in a position to rip open the walls to replace the huge amount of cabling already there so the component switcher is going to stay for now. The original installer is supposed to come out in a week or two and they said they have the config, so in theory I could get them to write it to a new controller. I did notice there are a bunch of smaller devices that could potentially be HC200B's (going on image search), they are in each area for additional IR inputs so I didn't think they were the master controller.
  11. How are they going to help remotely? The damn thing can't get to the internet! When I plug in the rest of the network it forgets its IP address. I have tried setting it to several different IP's, it keeps forgetting what it has.
  12. If I look at the video of the HC300 it says the IP is NOT ASSIGNED. I think it has a problem with the Eero's acting as DHCP servers. I can sort of force it by running a dhcp server on a laptop (but then it still doesn't show the IP on the screen). The control4 dealer said they had good luck with Eero's before so I am surprised, they don't give you many options for advanced settings. I am at 2.5.3 according to one of the wireless ipad things. When I spoke with the installer they looked it up and said that I was stuck at the latest version this would run.
  13. MakeItAMudLight - I don't think they would bother doing that, they left all other TV's and all kinds of electronics. The HC300 is in the pictures I have from when I walked through. SMHarman - the controller seems to only remember the IP for about 15 minutes, I think the DHCP lease time is very low for some reason. By the time I walk around after I've plugged it back into the rest of the network, I can no longer access that Control4 page on it in a web browser. The receiver and other devices show up though, so I know the connection is good.
  14. It is a component 8x8 matrix, does HD technically, all the devices in the house either have component or have a C->HDMI adapter. Some are component over cat5 with special adapters on each end.
  15. 5 years?!?!? It was only installed in 2013 I was told!