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rolldog

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Everything posted by rolldog

  1. My installer installed this C4-KA in my outdoor kitchen in a spot created in the stucco. This dimmer controls the can lights in the outdoor kitchen, but it's also tied to a keypad dimmer in the foyer to also control the outdoor kitchen can lights. I just so happen to have a couple of C4-APD120 adaptive phase wireless dimmers, but after removing the C4-KA, I noticed it has at least half the wires as the C4-APD120. I'm curious to know if I can use this as a replacement so I can have a working switch outside, and if so, will the new dimmer work fine without everything else connected? Or should I just order another C4-KA to replace the one that went out and save this for something else, since it's obviously not a dummy dimmer switch?
  2. Is there any particular reason why the NEEO remote won't show my pool so I can access the features of the Jandy driver, since it's finally fixed? I can access everything fine on a touchscreen set for the same room, but I don't see how I can access it using the NEEO remote. Anyone have any suggestions to show it or is this not possible?
  3. I rebooted the controller and now it seems to be working. The Freeswitch Gateway now says registered instead of offline. I'm not sure it this goes out periodically, but this is the first time I've restarted my controller in at least a year. Thank you very much for the advice!
  4. No, this hasn't worked since OS3 or so. I don't have a "retry" button anywhere in the communication agent. I have a tab labeled local devices listing all my touch panels, a tab called Communication Server in mode "This controller is a Communication Server" and everything else is blank, and a tab labeled Advanced which has a section called Proxy Server and shows Server Type-FreeSwitch, IP address of one of my controllers, the name of the controller, device id, and proxy id, a section labeled FreeSwitch Gateway with a button that says Refresh Gateway and one that says Offline, a section labeled Security where "Secure all communication" is checked, and then a section of external devices which lists the email addresses of the 3 users of the system. Based on this information, what can I do to get the Intercom working again?
  5. I used to use the Intercom Anywhere app to video call any touchpad from another touchpad or a phone, but now when I try to use it I'm told it's now part of the C4 app. When I try to use it through the C4 app, I get the following message: "Unable to Connect Intercom gateway not registered. Please try again later or contact your Smart Home Pro for assistance." How do I fix this so I can use the intercom feature? In Composer, under Agents/Communication/Advanced it lists my controller info in the Proxy Server info on top and under Freeswitch Gateway I have a Refresh Gateway Button and a button reading Offline. I read about a Freeswitch patch that's needed since it's not installed on my controller, but the link doesn't work to download it. How can I get this working again? It's not a feature I use often, but I do like to use it occasionally and would like it functioning. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks!
  6. I was just looking into Apple Music integration and found this thread. I was also just reading about the Extra Vegetables iTunes AirPlay 2 way driver. Is it possible to stream Apple Music using this driver through iTunes installed on a local PC, since iTunes has a radio feature under music?
  7. When you say bind, does it have to bind with a HEOS speaker or can it bind to a room's audio? I have a Denon receiver and a Marantz pre/pro, but honestly, I've never even tried using HEOS. I always use the audio streams in the EA-5 to play to different zones. Would benefit would using HEOS have over the standard media streaming built in with C4?
  8. I bought one of these Zigbee RGBW controllers and a cheap roll of compatible RGBW light strips, and when powered on, they can be linked to the Philips Hue app for control. This was much more cost effective than buying 16’ of Philips Hue strips. You can control them using Control4, but I would only recommend these if you were planning to stick to one color and use C4 to power on/off. It’s possible to change the colors using C4, but it’s easier using the Hue app https://www.amazon.com/GIDERWEL-Controller-Lightify-Controlled-Include/dp/B07NQC5V3S By the way, all these LED strips are basically the same no matter who the manufacturer is. If you can find the model number of a specific strip and either a WiFi, Bluetooth, ZigBee, etc controller, you can piece together everything yourself through Superbrightleds.com. I’ve done this a couple of times and integrated the generic LED strips into someone else’s app to control them. Which app depends on the type of controller you decided to use, WiFi, Bluetooth, ZigBee, RF, etc. You must be certain that you’re buying the right controller, transformer, and LED strip, but if you’re running 100+ feet, it would be huge savings. For a 10’-15’ run, buying a bundle from Govee, Yeelight, Hue, LIFX, etc is more convenient
  9. Agreed, I had my Apple TV setup using IR for 4 years, but a couple months ago, it was updated to enable Apple TV integration in the Control4 mobile app under settings. Once this is done, a Control4 remote is loaded into HomeKit, or whatever it's called, and an Apple TV Bridge is loaded into your project. Now, I have 1 Apple Bridge and 8 Apple TVs in my project all working perfectly using IP control. Like Mitch mentioned, you must login to each Apple TV using the same Apple ID on every Apple TV you have. Some of my devices are still setup using IR control, but I prefer IP control if it's available. It's possible your installer isn't aware if these recent updates making IP control much better. (I hope I don't jinx myself!)
  10. No, this isn't another thread about how flaky IP control is with LG TVs, this is about something else. I have 9 LG OLED TVs in my house, and I've gone into the IP control hidden menu on each one, enabled IP control in Composer, and every one of them has been working great, with one exception. I have one LG OLED in my outdoor kitchen, and it's an LG OLED W7 "wallpaper TV" which I bought at least 5 years ago. I haven't seen a driver listed for this specific TV so I loaded the driver for the LG W8, the following year's model. Meanwhile, it's still setup using IR control. I've left the LG W8 driver loaded in the project without it connected to anything waiting for it to be recognized by Control4, but it's been 4 weeks and still nothing. If I go into connections/network/available devices, I find devices listed with the same IP address as the TV (um:schemas-upnp-org:device:Basic:1, um:schemas-upnp-org:device:MediaRenderer:1, etc), but nothing that I can actually link to the LG.tv:OLED65W9PUA driver loaded. 2 of my other LG TVs are connected via address type UUID and the rest are IP, but is the problem possibly because I have a slightly different driver loaded into the project? If I removed the driver I have loaded, would I be able to add this TV to the project using one of these other descriptions listed in connections/network/available devices? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  11. I just had 2 LG OLED TVs installed, and both of them are connected to the matrix. If I try setting the video signal on the Apple TV connected to the matrix to 4K60 HDR, the screen goes out until it defaults back to 4K60 SDR. If I try setting the Roku Ultra to 4K HDR, which is another source on the matrix, it gives me an HDCP 2.2 error. So, I printed the device settings on the matrix and it shows all outputs being HDCP 2.2 compliant except the 2 new LG TVs. I’m not sure why the matrix shows this as all the other outputs are also LG OLED TV, just a little older. On these new TVs, HDMI is set for deep color and all settings are correct, but the matrix still doesn’t see these new TVs being HDCP 2.2 compliant. I had this matrix setup about 4 years ago and have never been able to pass 4K HDR content through the matrix and was told it was because of the older Samsung and LG TVs connected. These 2 new TVs replaced those TVs so I’ve been trying to set everything up to view 4K HDR content. ‘Since these new TVs aren’t recognized as HDCP 2.2 compliant, even after running a calibration on the matrix, I setup an EDID group to exclude these new TVs just to test the matrix and see if it will pass a 4K HDR signal. After setting up the EDID group, I tried to enable 4K60 HDR on the Apple TV, again, and the same thing happens, screen goes blank until it defaults back to 4K60 SDR. Reading the documentation on my LU642D, I read that it’s bandwidth is limited to 10Gbps so 4K30 HDR is the highest possible resolution it can pass, so I set a custom resolution on the Apple TV to 4K24 HDR and got a 4K HDR signal to output to all displays in the EDID group. Since the signal was unwatchable, I removed the EDID group and set everything back to SDR. So, I don’t understand why the matrix doesn’t see these 2021 LG OLED C1 TVs as being non HDCP 2.2 compliant, but even if it did see these TVs as being compliant, the highest resolution I would be able to use is 4K24 HDR, which sucks. I thought this matrix could pass a higher resolution than that. 4K24 or 4K30 content might have been fine 10 years ago, but after watching 4K60 content so much, the difference is much more noticeable. Right now, I don’t even see a benefit to figure out why these new TVs aren’t being seen as HDCP compliant if the best resolution I’ll be able to get anyway is 4K24 HDR or 4K30 HDR, which sucks.
  12. I realize this thread is dated, but I ran across it when looking for LIFX drivers. Maybe your problem lies in the fact that you have 64 LIFX bulbs. I can’t imagine what your WiFi RF spectrum looks like!
  13. I recently bought 3 2021 65" LG OLED C1 TVs, replacing some older TVs, but after calibrating the matrix, it shows these TVs in their zones not being HDCP 2.2. Every other TV connected to the matrix, which are also LG OLED TVs, albeit a year or two older, all are listed on the matrix configuration as HDCP 2.2 compatible. When a new TV/device comes out, does the C4 matrix automatically see the device as being HDCP 2.2 compliant or does someone at C4 normally need to update something before the matrix can recognize the new device as being HDCP 2.2 compliant? If I setup an EDID group, excluding these 2 TVs from the matrix, then I can get a 4K HDR signal from the sources to the other TVs connected, however, for an Apple TV 4K, I have to set a custom resolution of 4K HDR 24fps, before the signal is passed through making the content almost unwatchable. I’m curious if this might be a limitation of the matrix or the wiring. If I were using CAT7 or fiber cables, would the matrix still be limited to 24fps on 4K HDR content? The matrix I’m using is the LU642D. I’d appreciate any suggestions.
  14. I think the time it stopped working with the C4 system is about the same time they rolled out native Jandy controls for Alexa. In the past, I could control everything fine using C4, but since the new Alexa integration, I’ve been unable to control/monitor anything through C4.
  15. With all Apple devices working with a closed off ecosystem, I imagine we’ll never see a custom IP driver nor mini apps for it.
  16. After relinking my C4 acct back with Alexa after some minor issues, I saw this document titled "Alexa Entertainment Experience Upgrade," which looks like it converts all the zones/rooms into volume control for those zones/rooms. I have no idea when this was released, probably a long time ago, but whenever I login on the C4 website and go to Voice Control, I don't see this Upgrade button next to the Rooms section. All my rooms are still rooms, and I've always wondered what the purpose of this was for as it has conflicts with the naming of Alexa devices in those rooms. If I'm reading this correctly, after selecting the upgrade button above the Room section in Voice Control, it converts all the individual rooms to volume control. Does anyone have their system setup like this? All my rooms are still listed as rooms, no volume control, and I don't see this upgrade button as shown in this documentation. Does something else need to be done before showing this or is it possible all my rooms are currently set for volume control but don't have "volume" next to each individual room? https://www.control4.com/docs/product/alexa/setup-guide/english/latest/alexa-setup-guide-rev-a.pdf
  17. I bought a PHin for my pool a couple years ago and must say that it works well. Although it doesn’t automate your chemicals making your pool maintenance free, it does monitor your PH level, sanitizer, notifies you when your PH is too high/too low, how much of whatever chemicals you use need to be added, when it’s time to add chlorine to maintain the right levels or if your chlorine levels get too low below it’s time to add more chlorine, when the pool needs to be shocked, etc. The only thing it doesn’t detect automatically is total alkalinity, cyanuric acid, and hardness, but it comes with a chart and some test strips so once a month you dip the strip into the water, place it on the chart, then take a picture of it. If levels are out of range, it’ll notify you. When initially setting it up, it has a sensor that floats in the water, a bridge it connects to, which plugs in somewhere close by and has access to your WiFi, and for the chemicals, you can either scan the barcodes of the chemicals you’re currently using and input how many gallons your pool is, so it can accurately tell you how much of each chemical to add, or you can sign up with a subscription service they have, which sends you different chemicals in pouches and you add however many pouches it tells you to add. Lastly, it can be connected to local pool dealers in your area so if something needs to be done, cleaning, plumbing repair, filter, leaks, heater problems, etc, you can submit a maintenance request through the app. I wish all my chemicals were maintained automatically, but this is good enough.
  18. Ever since Control4 rolled out the Apple TV integration option in the settings of the Control4 app, navigating the Apple TV using the Control4 app has been much easier. One way to check and see if your Apple TV has been setup like this is by opening the Apple Home app and look for a Control4 remote being listed somewhere. My dealer set all my Apple TVs up using IR and the 3rd Gen driver years ago claiming it was more stable, but I had to notify them about the Apple TV integration in the Control4 app settings. Ever since this was setup, all 4 of my Apple TVs have been working great. I imagine a large number of Control4 users have Apple TVs for Control4 to add this Apple TV integration into their own app. I hope one day someone releases a streaming device that would be universal, support all types of video steams, all types of audio streams, but could be setup using different types of user interfaces so end users could set it to be similar to whatever device they’re familiar with, then everyone would only have to worry about one driver and a universal integration. I must have 25-30 different devices that can be used to stream media when including TVs, Blu Ray players, etc in addition to dedicated streaming devices.
  19. I just bought this, which was on sale during Prime Day. I’ve never seen it before, but I’m assuming it would work similar to having an Echo Spot plugged into the matrix.
  20. I’ve actually been looking into this as my dealer now works with Josh.ai. One more thing, after running device discovery on Alexa, each zone is setup as a device, which uses a TV icon making it even more confusing when settings things up. When enabling/disabling/renaming devices on the Control4 website for Alexa integration after running discovery, they’re all clearly listed individually under rooms. Any idea what the purpose of this is, and if they can be disabled? If I’m creating groups within each zone, it normally causes a conflict because the name of the zone is usually the same name given to the Alexa device within that zone. Unless the Control4/Alexa website was reconfigured to list each zone and then list each device within that zone (similar to the System Design layout in Composer), which would then allow you to name 2 devices the same name (I.e. lights) as long as they were in separate zones, I don’t understand the point of have a zone configured as a device in Alexa. Since each device has to be setup with a unique name which normally includes which room it’s in, what’s the point of having the individual rooms configured as devices?
  21. Not to beat a dead horse as I know this has been discussed multiple times, I’m back to the idea of having my Alexa play music in each zone when asked. Over the years, as newer devices come out and upgrading to newer ones, I now have an Echo Show in every room/zone. Being that today is Prime Day, which is when all of Amazon’s devices are at least half price, I want to buy some Echo Spots for my racks so when in any zone, anyone can tell Alexa to play whatever they want and have the music play through the in-ceiling speakers vs through the speakers in the Echo Show in each zone. Is it possible to buy one for each zone, give it the name of the zone, and ir provide the music stream to each zone or is only one Dot necessary with a lot of programming done? I’d also like for lossless audio to be supported, so would a Dot support this or would another piece of equipment be needed instead? I’m hoping to finally get this done and put it to rest. I saw a video, which I think was on Control4’s website demonstrating this being done in a smart spec home, and I think the guy said they had a Dot connected directly to the speakers in the room but nothing was visible. Since the Dot was connected to the speakers in that zone, it was the only Dot that could hear the commands and having to say the name of the zone where you wanted the music to play was unnecessary. What’s the best option to set this up today, since I know some things have progressed since I last looked into it? Thank you!
  22. I think you’re referring to conflicts between the Alexa Groups, which are typically set to the room name, and the room itself in Control4, which Alexa also picks up when running device discovery. I’m wondering if the rooms can be unchecked on the C4 website Alexa integration. In Alexa, it shows up as a room, but it doesn’t have any functionality besides conflicting with Alexa’s group name. I wish the rooms/zones that Alexa picks up after device discovery could be set as an audio endpoint. Then this whole Alexa/Control4 music integration would work much better.
  23. I know this post is kind of old, but I ran across it while looking to see if QNAP's QVR Face AI used with their QVR Pro Surveillance System could somehow be used to create triggers in Control4. Right now, I have all my cameras setup using my QNAP as an NVR, but the only Control4 integration I can find for QNAP is as a network storage device, nothing else. It would be kinda cool if someone was approaching your front door, you could set things up like for the front door to lock/unlock depending on who it is.
  24. I think what you're referring to here is having an Echo device in the living room, kitchen, etc and having them named living room, kitchen, etc. After enabling the Control4 skill and discovering devices, it pulls in all the devices from your C4 system, and one of which is living room, kitchen, etc, which in the Alexa app are categorized by Rooms, even though it has a TV icon next to it. Every room setup on your C4 system is imported into Alexa, along with all the devices in that room. I'm not sure what this "Room" symbolizes or if it controls everything within the room, but to avoid conflicts with each Alexa device, I changed the names to living room alexa, kitchen alexa, etc. I was hoping that the different rooms are actually zones for music, but I'm not that lucky. I'd still be interested in finding out what the basic rooms are using for in the Alexa app under devices or if they can all just be disabled to avoid conflicts.
  25. None of these solutions work to access the IP control settings on LG’s 2021 OLED TVs
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