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mindedc1

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About mindedc1

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    Control4 End User
  1. mindedc1

    Ubiquity Waps

    Make sure that you are configured for fast roaming and stay on the same IP network while you roam between APs. It sounds like the tablet is potentially doing a full re-authentication and doing a new DHCP request which flushes all the active network connections to applications. If you have a properly configured system and decent gear you should be able to roam without dropping the C4 app no problem. You should make sure the ubiquiti isn't configured to NAT the clients and that you only have one DHCP server on the network.
  2. mindedc1

    Dish Network vs DirecTV?

    Not when I had it, you jumped past then skipped back....
  3. mindedc1

    RGB LED advice

    Niether. I'm using a Fibaro via Vera. I looked at the protocol, looks super easy to implement. The only negative I see is no feedback, you would have to assume that if the TCP connection is good that the device is actually responding to the command. I say that, the guy that decoded the protocol didn't seem to identify any form of response from the device. Perhaps he was uninterested in feedback and there is some nice functionality.
  4. mindedc1

    RGB LED advice

    If you have a Vera you can just use a Fibaro Zwave RGBW driver. I am controlling bar lights, ceiling rope lights, and under stair lights in my home theater through control 4. You can certainly make scenes on the Vera and trigger them but using the extravedge driver and directly controlling the lights is easy. Each channel will show up as an independant dimmer and you can also have a master dimmer controll all channels. I am actually using white LEDs for one of the Fibaros and have broken the channels out to independent strips. Works like a champ.
  5. Technically, you don't need a new router to make it work. I would also not buy any Araknis/packedge overpriced product. Those products are more about increasing dealer margin than anything. You do need to get someone to look at it that knows what they're doing. Any money to be spent should first go to a networking pro. The linksys and ubiquiti should work fine assuming it's all configured correctly. That being said the linksys home products are very limited as to how they can be configured. I will say that it sounds like perhaps you are doing NAT translation at the ubiquiti as well as the linksys or perhaps have DHCP enabled on the ubiquiti as well as the linksys if there is a real communication issue. Depending on where the KODI device is connected you may or may not be passing firewall filters or nat boundary. On another note, I would actually recommend you ditch the Linksys as your router and get something higher quality. I would find a friend or local person that has some networking expertise. An all ubiquiti setup with an edgerouter ($99) and two ubiquiti WAPs would be ideal. If you are not capable of managing the edgerouter firewall and don't want to have someone on retainer to do so I would look at something like a pfsense device as it is a little easier to manage. Honestly if the changes you typically are making in the linksys are DHCP reservations you can manage an edgerouter. Good luck
  6. mindedc1

    Video Storm vs. Just Add Power

    One thing I saw, the Video Storm drivers seem to be more focused on Amazon Fire TV than shield. I have a shield and I had to write a bunch of mini driver strings because the majority of the current mini drivers from Video Storm are geared towards the Fire TV vs shield and the QLAUNCH strings change from time to time. I'm not saying they're not supporting Shield or that it won't/doesnt work because it works beautifully, they do seem to be prioritizing support for fire products though. You may get better support down the road with fire devices. There is also a super cool feature where you can detect when the Shield/Fire TV is playing video. In my home theater I have those state changes mapped to play/pause lighting scenes. Super cool! The only downside is netflix live previews count as playing video....
  7. I use a Zwave LED strip driver by Fibaro, a Vera controller, and the extraveg vera drivers. It shows up as 4 dimmers to C4 (RGBW) and works instantly. Vera is $80-100, LED driver was $60. I use superbright LEDs from Amazon ($20 for 15 feet with 300 LEDs) with an amazon 12V power supply ($30) and a signal amplifier ($10) because I am driving quite a few strips. YMMV on C4 integration costs.
  8. mindedc1

    Dish Network vs DirecTV?

    My wife got talked into switching Dish > Direct at costco recently. I was a dish customer since the days of their first reciever and I've had Direct for about a year. Here are my thoughts: Sports package - DirectTV has the win here. I'm not a sports fan so I don't care. My football addicted friends are much happier hanging out on the weekends though. C4 Integration - Works flawlessly on Dish with Hoppers. I had two hoppers but no Joeys (long story) so I can't speak to Joey functionality. The experience was >= using the dish remote, zero lag. Direct TV Genie and genie mini integration sucks eggs. I will talk about the hardware in more detail but what was said about certain menus on the minis are IR only is completely true. You can get stuck in deep menus via IP control and not be able to get out, freaking genius. The interface is also super laggy. Using the IR remote things like bringing up the guide take a second or two on direct (instant on dish). Using the C4 integration adds another second to that. My C4 dealer didn't want to do IP control for those reasons but I have receivers in places I don't have wiring for IR bugs so I'm stuck. Video quality - Direct looks like they do a saturation push on all the content but they seem to heavily reduce the motion bit rate on a lot of the content. The result is a heavily saturated image with a crapload of macroblocking. Dish looks like they run a reduced color space to save bandwidth but keep a high bitrate for motion. The net effect is if you have a small crappy TV or don't notice macroblocking, direct probably looks great. If you have mostly larger TVs or heaven forbid a projector Direct is almost unwatchable due to macro blocking and pixelation. I feel like I'm watching TV in 8bit. Both will steer higher bandwidth towards high profile events. Superbowl looks great on both for example. I have also noticed that on Dish the prime time stuff looks fantastic. They have some satellite technology that lets them re-use spectrum in sections across the US and I think that buys them something there. I have a Direct TV bigot friend and he thought I was crazy saying the video quality was poor on Direct until he came over and looked at it on my Sony 940E and my JVC X560 on a 120" screen...It is much more watchable on the bedroom TVS which are much smaller. I would imaging many forum members have much better displays than I do. Guide -The direct TV guide is sized for smaller TVs and you get far less grid data per square inch of TV. If you are using lots of 32" and 42" TVs you may like it. On a 65" tv the Direct guide is a joke and looks like it's for toddlers and blind people. The other huge issues I have with the direct guide is all of the dammed advertising. 50% of the channels are either pay-per-view ads or shopping channels. Dish has all the shopping channels clumped in one section, Dish also has PPV ads that overlay the PPV channels but they are only in just one or two other places in the guide, spread evenly throughout. I did remove all the extra PPV and shopping channels from my Direct guides but the net result is about 10 pages of ads crammed together (orignoally spaced out by PPV channels) that I have to skip over. I cringe every time I use the guide on Direct. Another annoyance is that direct does not make current time the absolute left side of the screen. That sounds like a weird complaint but it lets you accidentally select a show thats over. This triggers a screen to try and watch the old show via on demand or something and you're in laggy menu hell waiting for that to come up so you can cancel it and then waiting for the overlay to disappear so you can get back to your show or load the guide again. Skip - Fast forward and rewind are nearly unusable on direct. I want to rip my hair out every time. The+30 sec skip does a "fast forward" so you have to wait for what you're skipping over. Presumably the purpose would be to make sure you dont miss anything. That is completely rendered useless by the fact the the reverse skip is only 3-5 seconds. If you blow over something you have to reverse skip 70 times to get back. Dish does an instant +30 and -10. If you're skipping commercials you skip forwards until you see the show, skip back once or twice and you're done. I wind up either watching commercials or missing parts of the show on direct. This leads me to the heavyweight feature on dish... Auto commercial skip. - Dish has this on all the primetime programming. Direct does not. I didn't watch commercials on Dish, ever. I watch tons on direct. Hate it. Recording - Both have good capacity. The thing I really love on Dish is primetime anytime where it records prime time on all the major networks. I didn't pay attention to having to manually record prime time shows are and I just used prime time anytime. Direct does not have this. I have to make sure to record everything like a cave man. Whole home DVR - Works great on both platforms. I didn't have Joeys but I was able to both search and use recording capacity on one hopper from the other. The Genie also works very well. On Demand content - So win goes to Direct for most on-demand content. I would also like to take that away and give it to Dish because of a few issues I've had with it. Unfortunately Dish has little on demand and the interface is beyond terrible/unusable so Direct wins here. The issues I've had with on demand are 1. Took three week, 10 service calls, and three new genies to get it to work (yes that means re-paring with C4 each time you get a new receiver and a complete wipe of settings including your possibly hand-edited guide to remove the HUNDREDS of PPV channels and shopping channels). When activating on demand they tell you it should take 24 hours to work. They lie. It should work before they leave or don't let them leave. 2. You can't fast forward or commercial skip on demand content. This means I'm stuck watching commercials again. Hardware - Direct TV hardware is super cheap and crappy. It feels like a plastic box of air. The power supplies are external so you wind up with wall warts and extra cabling all over the place. Dish hardware feels like decent mid grade AV gear. Internal power supplies and plenty of interfaces. Beyond that, there are significant differences between the products beyond what you see from a user experience perspective. Dish has hoppers and joeys. Hoppers are the mothership and joeys are the remote unit. You can get 4K units for both. You can technically run the Joeys over IP. Each hopper/joey has its own IP and streams/talks to the internet itself. This means anywhere you have a network you can put a joey and you can have a 4K tv at any location. On Direct they have Genies and Minis. The Genies are the mother ship and the minis are the remote. Only minis support 4K. This forces me to have a mini in the AV rack where you would think that I could put the main unit with the noisy hard disk. Go figure. The minis and the genie also communicate on IP, but despite having ethernet jacks on every unit it will only work on a MOCA IP over coax connection. The main unit gets an IP address (you pair with C4) and it relays commands and streaming media. That's right, the main unit is a proxy/speedbump for all the minis. This explains the lag but also means you better have COAX where you want to put a TV. This is probably fine for older houses but I only have cat 6a in the upstairs bedrooms. so I've had to go back and pull coax where a TV was wanted... That's right, discard the 2016+ technology for 1970s technology.... The other infuriating thing is that somewhere along the dozen or so service calls to get my streaming to work they told me that in a large installation I needed to disconnect ALL of the genies/minis and have a dedicated MOCA to ethernet bridge. This required a second coax (that also had to be pulled) to the av closet. 4K Content - I never had a 4K reciever on Dish, but I think they had 4 channels just like the early days of HD. I also suspect it's the same crap playing over and over interspersed with 4k commercials for the other 3 channels you're not currently watching. So probably not worth the fee. I do have two 4K Direct recievers. I can't use one of them because of noise issues with the genie I can't put it in any of the bedrooms so I have my main unit on the 4k TV in the living room. They have one channel that barely has any content and like the early days of dish 4k it's a lot of commercials for itself and repeated content. What is there (rare event or soccer game) is absolutely spectacular. I also don't think it's worth the fee. I really took Dish for granted. The better streaming on Direct isn't worth it in light of netflix/hulu/prime etc. and the ability to stream other channels natively on any of our streaming devices. I am ultimately going to cancel Direct when the contract is up. I may not go back to cable/satellite but if I do I will be getting Dish, no questions asked.
  9. mindedc1

    Water Sensor

    Amazon link for GRI water sensor: https://www.amazon.com/GRI-2600-Volt-Water-Sensor/dp/B001DVVJIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544821406&sr=8-3&keywords=gri+water+sensor
  10. mindedc1

    Water Sensor

    GRI Water sensors are super bullet proof. I have them near my washer and in the closet with the hot water heaters. The worst issue is running the wire back to a controller or extender. I think there is also a zigbee wireless sensor. For something like this I would go with old school simple reliable stuff like this. I previously had a battery powered sensor and would get lazy about changing batteries and then freakout when I forgot to replacing them etc...
  11. What this guy is saying^^^^^ Individual SSIDs would be the sign of an idiot giving that advise. There is no reason to do that. Araknis specifically implemented 802.11r/k for roaming between APs, why would they do that if they're going to bozo roaming by having multiple SSIDs? There is no call for multiple. Also, saying that home requires less tweaking than commercial is also an idiodic statement. If they look up the RF absorption of the materials in a typical house VS a typical office environment it's not even close. I can get 3x the coverage from one AP in a commercial setting VS a home setting. I think he's just used to the installers not knowing enough to tweak so they recommend brain dead solutions like multiple SSIDs. Also, if you were thinking about doing a roaming SSID and AP specific SSIDs, know that every SSID you add eats air time because it's beacon has to be sent at the slowest base rate of any possible client. Just think about how many bits flip per unit time at 1.5mbit vs 600mbit....Lots of wasted bit times on beacons. If you do the math 32 SSIDs equate to 100% channel utilization without any actual user traffic. You have the same problem with multicast which is why any decent system will do multicast to unicast conversion. Two SSID won't kill you but why waste the bandwidth. We often tune minimum base rate instead of power because it can be a better indication of connection quality than just DB of signal. Various systems also tune off of RSSI and xmit power but that gets product specific. I would find someone qualified to help you with your Araknis or find someone that is qualified with another product and ebay it. I think tekki70 whom I quoted offered some level of assistance. I don't know him from adam's house cat but he seems like he has a better working knowledge than whomever you are talking to. Good luck
  12. If you use a decent quality firewall you can do that in the firewall.
  13. We install 15K-20K+ APs (no, not a mistake, those are tens of thousands) per year and home grade wifi is far behind the commercial solutions. There are only three products on the market at the commercial level that have everything working at a nearly "fire and forget" level and they still require talented engineering to get it perfect. I am not aware of any at the home gamer level that have everything working perfectly. I seriously doubt that araknis has anywhere near the install base of even the small commercial players and I suspect it needs a lot of tuning to get right. I have vendors give me APs to test constantly at my house. I need at least 3 APs to have coverage consistently throughout the structure, at least with technology through the current generation of commercial 802.11AC Wave 2. I have even tested many models of dual radio 5Ghz APs that have absolutely no place in a home setting (not enough client density to make any use of that). My recommendation would be to focus on Ubiquiti, Ruckus, or Aruba Instant. Cisco Aeronet would probably work acceptably but would require additional parts (controllers/servers/VMs) not appropriate for a home installation. I would stay away from Meraki because you will be paying pretty heavy recurring cost to manage. Aerohive would have the same issue. Ruckus and Aruba Instant will automatically work the best. Ubiquiti does not have a true controller based architecture. The controller manages the APs but doesn't steer clients etc. Ubiquiti will require some moderate skill from the installer. I can't tell you how many times I've been to a neighbors house and they have a Ubiquiti AP with a 30 degree down tilt antenna laying upside down on top of a cabinet at 8' off the ground..... I don't know enough about packedge or araknis to make the same call but I would suspect similar problems and youre paying a lot more for the gear. Just think about the install base of those niche products vs netgear... there is no way they have enough exposure to knock all the bugs out of the product with all of the thousands of client hardware/firmware/driver/antenna combinations on the market. Your problem with the garage door device is probably due to it being a 2.4G device and a poor client implementation. The AP its stuck to was probably the first one that responded to the device. Quality products like Aruba and Ruckus will use the RSSI of the incoming beacon from the client and then will typically lag the responses to that AP from the radios the wireless system deems less desirable for communications with that client. Note that you have to have some sort of central authority (like Ruckus and Aruba have with virtual controllers) for that to work because for example with three APs you would have up to six radios across three physical locations to steer the client towards. Quality modern systems will also support band steering where you use that same mechanism to force clients to 5G radios. You then on top of that have problems with certain clients like Chromebooks that will always prefer 2.4 over 5G regardless of band steering on the wireless system and that are sticky and won't roam until the connection completely drops. We frequently petition Dell, HPI, Lenovo etc. for driver fixes to make their clients work properly. We havent even talked about limiting base rates, multicast to unicast conversion, spectrum reuse, channel bandwidth, sideband cellular interference filters etc... These are only a few of the thousands of variables to the equation and only a few manufacturers have it completely solved. Everyone else you have to supply the expertise and make up for the gaps in the product. Most of the AV installers I've seen are still using IR connections and not even educated on basic IP networking, much less going to have ekahau in their trunk to do proper wifi troubleshooting. I would find a networking expert and have them use Ubiquiti/Ruckus/Aruba Instant based on your ability to afford the product.
  14. mindedc1

    Here's probably a stupid idea...

    Several of the ethernet switch vendors allow you to run virtualized workloads on their metal. It would be pretty sweet to just ditch the appliance completely. I DO see how archaic many C4 dealers are (IR Everything) and home based technology typically is, but there will be a day it makes sense. It may be a VM running on their own hardware, but the benefits of having it all running in a VM are so huge it will eventually happen.
  15. mindedc1

    Small Receiver with IP control?

    Onkyo also works well for IP control. I often shop the clearance area at Best Buy or woot for such items on clearance.
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