Jump to content


c4Forums Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. Looking for some experiences around the best way to refactor a wall opening to fit the non-standard backbox for a T3. I have a few locations that already have either single-gang or dual-gang LV rings with Cat6 run to them already - located at thermostat height off of the floor formerly for audio keypads. I'm wondering if there's a recommended method for retro-fitting the T3 backboxes into these locations. In looking at the backbox, it looks like the C4 box isn't high enough to cover a hole from a dual-gang ring, so I'd need to rip out the old ring, and somehow patch like 1-2" of sheetrock firm enough where it'll hold the top / bottom while still exposing enough sheetrock lip for the wings to catch on. It almost looks like if the backbox tabs were on the narrow end instead of the long ends of the box, that they'd work better instead of contacting patched sheetrock either above or below the opening. Anyone have any advice, or a better idea on how to do this?
  2. dw886

    Russound C Series EV Driver

    Thank you! Wish I had realized that there was full documentation on how to do this - would have saved me some time. :-)
  3. dw886

    Russound C Series EV Driver

    Does anyone have any examples that they can post of how they've programmed C4 to follow the Russound keypads? I'm expecting that you'd do something like: When Input changes on Output 1 IF Russound Output 1 current input = Input 1 (Room) Select an Audio Device (corresponding to Input 1) …. (repeat for each Input on the Russound unit, and then repeat all of this for each Output [or zone] on the Russound controller). I'd also like to be able to have the C4 zone update to off when someone turns off the audio at the Russound Keypad...
  4. Just in case anyone is interested. I reached out to GC support, and there's a bug in the driver. The current Global Cache driver will reset parity back to Odd periodically. They plan on rev'ing the driver to address this. Until then, you can "Enable Lock" in the network configuration page of the iTach to prevent the driver from changing this back to "odd". FYI - Once "enable lock" is enabled, you can't make any configuration changes without factory defaulting the unit.
  5. I have an iTach that I have connected to a Sony Projector (HW55ES) via Serial Connection in a Theater room. The projector requires an Even parity bit per the serial documentation. Initially after setting up the iTach using the Global Cache C4 driver, it wouldn't work. Looking at the iTach configuration webpage, I found that the Parity bit setting was set to Odd (assuming via the driver). I changed it to "Even", and everything started working. Shortly thereafter, it quit working. Going back to the iTach settings page, I could see that the Parity bit was again set to "Odd". I changed it to "Even" again, and things started working. Then a few days later trying to power on the room, and no projector. Looking at the iTach settings page, again, the Parity bit is again set back to "Odd". Changing it to "Even" fixes the issue. Here's the problem: - I can't tell what's modifying the setting - if the iTach is simply deciding on it's own to change the setting, or if it's the C4 drive that supposedly auto-detects the settings required, and updates the iTach. Anyone have experience with the iTach not holding it's setting (or maybe the GC iTach C4 driver is causing the issue...)?
  6. I was having similar issues with my GC devices. They're running on 802.11g, which means an older network protocol. While I'm running all Ubiquiti gear, your Orbi gear likely has a similar settings. In the WLAN properties, in order for these GC devices to connect and be visible, you need to enable support for legacy 802.11g devices. This is turned off by default because there's a potential speed impact to the overall network. Here's the disclaimer from my gear: Legacy device support will enable 802.11g protection mechanisms. Be advised that these mechanisms can potentially cause more than 50% loss in overall 2.4 GHz WLAN throughput, and increased latency. It is recommended to set up a separate WLAN network specifically for legacy devices.
  7. OK, that makes me feel better. I thought I was missing something really obvious. I tinker with it and see if I can get it to update. Does it show anything while it's updating (like the downloading icon that shows up when the remote is pulling a refresh from the controller)?
  8. This is probably painfully obvious somewhere, but how do you go about updating the firmware on a remote? I have 3 SR260s. 2 are at much higher minor revisions (like .104), and 1 is at .74 (or something close to that). Is there something that you need to do to push a firmware update through Composer?