crshepard7

Search the Composer database for this driver: Relay Door Controller (OS 2.9+) It can be configured for up to 3 relays.

The Explorer 8300 HD driver works on all Spectrum boxes.

This. Go into audio settings of the TV, then Advanced, then Audio Format & change from Dolby Digital to PCM.

In Composer, you need to set it to Direct Mode. Direct mode = works as a local amp only and input is not digitized (0 delay) Stream mode = input is always digitized for sharing (1-2 sec delay, in sync with controllers/triad ones) Direct + Stream mode = local amp (0 delay) + digitized input (1-2 sec delay). local playback is not in sync with streaming playback.

I’d strongly recommend only using OSD on main TV areas where you’ll want to access categories other than audio & video…especially things like cameras, or if you’ll have lots of security sensors you want to monitor frequently. It just makes so much more sense to use a phone, tablet, or touchscreen for this though. Using the OSD for Watch or Listen categories actually takes more steps & is just silly for the vast majority of users. If you do insist on using several controllers for OSD, I’d suggest placing them at the main TV locations versus the matrix. They will be much more useful as Zigbee & I/O devices at the TV locations. Of the numerous systems I’ve implemented with 10-20 TVs, not one of them have had more than two controllers since the handheld remotes got Watch & Listen buttons. source: have been a C4 installer/programmer since 2008.

Except his square keypads don’t have that bar, and if they did, that’s the light sensor bar...air gap would be on top if it were a US high voltage model.

All you need is the Dimmer Load Group driver in the Composer database.

IFTTT maker driver. https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/ifttt-maker-control4-driver-chowmain/

The V2 have a second Ethernet port so multiple modules can be daisy chained together from one uplink cable.

You’re an end user. How do you know what type of C4 lighting system is common & what is not common? Your dealer saying that they are still shoving banks of dimmers in closets tells me that they are behind the times & are not following best practices. I guess your dealer has a totally different mindset though, considering that they’re willing to work with someone who is sourcing his equipment online.

You have the basics down. Have you considered a panelized system? That would be much cleaner than hiding dimmers in closets etc., and more financially practical depending on how many loads you are wanting to control.

We have one project with an EA-1 running 32 zigbee lights, 4 SR-260s, 7 Sonos devices, 5 IP controlled TVs, 2 IP controlled AVRs, 2 IP controlled Blu-rays, an NVR with 6 IP cams, a DS2, DSC IT-100, Hunter Douglas PowerView Hub with 6 shades, and a MatterLink (IP to RF hub) with control of 5 motorized screens. You’ll be fine lol.

As Matt mentioned you only need one C4 dimmer in a 3- or 4- way scenario. The other locations can use accessory keypads (C4-KA) which are much less $$.

Dimmer Load Group driver.

You can change to null modem in composer. In system design, click on the CA-1, and select “enable null modem on serial port”. Give that a try. Also if you are on OS3.1, make sure you are using the newest IT-100 driver. Make sure you follow the steps in the driver documentation exactly. We implement this exact setup frequently.

It sounds like what you need is a new C4 dealer.

When OS3 was released, iOS devices (maybe all mobile devices?) would not work with no internet. I never heard whether this issue was resolved.

You will want to have your dealer set up control of your AppleTV via an IR driver as opposed to IP. Trust me. We’ve spent a lot of time on service calls switching our clients back to IR drivers for their AppleTVs. Recent firmware updates has caused lots of issues with IP control.

The Add Music driver is applicable to systems that use native Control4 music services from a C4 controller.

Your first question has been answered. As for your last question, any IR controlled screen should work fine, but you should be using screens with low voltage trigger inputs that would cause them to lower when the projectors turn on & raise when the projectors turn off.

Go rob a bank or armored truck. That way you’ll have enough money to live halfway comfortably while you work in the A/V & automation field.

Keep waiting for the perfect time to buy the latest & greatest, and you’ll never have to buy anything.

Just make sure any programming is device-based, and not at the room level.