Cyknight Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes, you likely could screw them in - liek I said the problem becomes if it would be up to code or not (and they are different region by region.You may have to ask for an inspection for it - because if it wasn't and something were to happen to your house, insurance would be all over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 I would think you could mount din rail like this: http://www.omega.com/pptst/DRTB-RAIL.html in the panel. The existing rails look to be just sheet metal screwed in place. Understand electrical stuff may not be that straightforward though.The connecting blocks look to be identical sized and the c4 ones would substitute.You'd need to measure up the box depth plus din rail plus component depth in front of din to check it fits behind the cover. Your proposal sounds like the c4 construction. As cycle said code compliance is likely but the sparky and inspector would have views. Size wise how different is caen 2x1 and the c4 2 unit? 16 in between studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Also the caen enclosure is 10.98cm deep with cover. The control4 is 9.5+0.6 so 10.1. That gives 90mm of space for the c4 dimmer pack to not stick through the Window at the front and to sit slightly away from the back of the panel on a rail. Looks very doable to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am350z Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Guys, can someone clarify the bus ethernet gateway? The dimmer modules have an ethernet connection so it isnt clear to me what the gateway is for. Literature mentions it is a connection for keypads and panelized lighting and conersion of rs-485. Have obtained dealer quotes, some include others dont. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 The below are needed if you are getting rs485 keypads. The aAdvantage of thewe is they have theur own mini controller in there keeping lights working if the HC is down. Seems some of your dealers are traditionally wiring the switches and others rs485Bus Power Supply (C4-DIN-BPS)Provides 48V power for wired keypads and other devices on the Control4® RS-485 system bus. Installed in either the Control4® 5 or 2-slot Panel or a third-party DIN rail panel.Decora Wired Keypad (C4-KCB)Combines beautiful aesthetics and flexible button configuration, providing a stunning user interface that elegantly controls any aspect of a Control4® system. Compatible with standard US-style electrical junction boxes. Custom keycap engraving available. Requires RS485 comms and 48V power.Bus Ethernet Gateway (C4-DIN-BEG)Converts all RS-485 devices on the system bus to Ethernet protocol. Facilitates control of the Panelized Lighting system, as well as audio, video and other automation events from wired keypads or other 485 devices. Installed in either the Control4® 5 or 2-slot Panel or a third-party DIN rail panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am350z Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Best I can tell rs485 is a low voltage power supply to keypads without a 120v panel feed. So if I am only using one keypad dimmer, I wouldnt need this. Correct? Would only be neccessary if there are remote keypads without a 120v line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 The keypad dimmer is not an rs485 Product but high voltage and zigbee Communications. If those are what is used the two modules are not needed. What you have planned. 110v>keypad dimmer> loadKeypad dimmer> zigbee>HC800HC800>Ethernet>light panel loads. Alternate. RS485 keypad>module>Ethernet>hc800>Ethernet> loadWith fallbackRs485>module>Ethernet>panel load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am350z Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Exactly. Makes perfect sense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 One small correction - the wireless keypads are NOT just low voltage. They can also be powered by the DIN powersupply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 One small correction - the wireless keypads are NOT just low voltage. They can also be powered by the DIN powersupplyBut the spec sheets say 48v only.http://www.control4.com/docs/product/decora-wired-keypad/data-sheet/latest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 But the spec sheets say 48v only.http://www.control4.com/docs/product/decora-wired-keypad/data-sheet/latestThose are the WIRED keypads - I'm talking about the the WIRELESS keypads not being line-level only. Just a small addition to the info (note that this is the keypads only - not the dimmer-keypad). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Those are the WIRED keypads - I'm talking about the the WIRELESS keypads not being line-level only. Just a small addition to the info (note that this is the keypads only - not the dimmer-keypad).Ah, I see, this one. http://www.control4.com/docs/product/decora-wireless-keypad/data-sheet/english/latest Power RequirementsC4-KC120277: 110-277VAC +/-10%, 50/60Hz or 36VDCC4-KC240: 220VAC-240VAC +/-10%, 50/60Hz or 36VDCThis device requires a neutral AC connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OPS-UK Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 On 9/12/2013 at 5:53 PM, cashmoney said: Are most Control4 dealers also licensed electricians? I know mine aren't, so I find it funny that they would be consulting on high voltage equipment. In my area the union electricians would go balistic to hear of a low voltage guy giving high voltage advice or installing any such equipment. I would be very surprised if Control4 installers were going any where near high voltage systems. Indeed Control4 lighting is not where near high voltage. In US I would expect it to be 110v and UK is is 230v, which are both classed as Low Voltage by the IEC. High Voltage is anything over 1,000v AC or 1,500V DC. I would expect the electrical contractor would install up to terminal blocks and then test the system to this point. Control4 installers would then install lighting modules and the extra-low voltage (sub 50v) items. Since they are now installing the wiring our having to do the main circuit testing, they are not (in the UK) required to be qualified electricians as they are not responsible for the safety of the installation, which would be signed off by a qualified electrician. I doubt the person who changes the power supply on your PC is a qualified electrician and this is no different. The tricky bit is knowing what size cable to use, the fusing, earthing, bonding and other electrical installation items which are now required to install lighting dimmers. As it happens I am a Control4 installer AND a certified UK electrician. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pounce Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 In the US working with line/mains voltage (120v) requires a license. I think using the term "high voltage" can be confusing when you are talking either low voltage or the other since many people don't get the distinction of high voltage relative to low and line etc. Low voltage is typically 5, 12, 24 in a home in the US. A typical person is more than likely going to refer to these voltages as low and then everything else is "high". Not that this is correct, but it's just how a typical person understands it. In the US low voltage work can require a license (and permits) depending on state and area of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 In many locations in the US, homeowners can do their own electrical work, as long as it is approved by the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction, typically the local building inspector), and requires inspections at certain points in the installation (meter base set, pre-drywall, final inspection, etc.). Outside of that, licensed electricians are required for any 'line voltage' installations (110V+ in the US). RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pounce Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 14 minutes ago, RyanE said: In many locations in the US, homeowners can do their own electrical work, as long as it is approved by the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction, typically the local building inspector), and requires inspections at certain points in the installation (meter base set, pre-drywall, final inspection, etc.). Outside of that, licensed electricians are required for any 'line voltage' installations (110V+ in the US). RyanE While that's true you typically can't game the system by having the homeowner pull the permit and have an unlicensed electrician execute the work. I'd advise against doing that also because the liability for both the work and the safety of the unlicensed electrician would be on the homeowner. Don't get me wrong. I fully support homeowner rights to execute their own work without professional licenses. We should be able to build our own castles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Do/build whatever you want, just don't expect any insurance to cover it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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