ILoveControl Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hi All, In my garage there is quite a collection of equipment. This equipment is constantly running and gives off an enormous amount of heat. Now 80% of the year this is fine, the garage is large enough to handle this. There is the 20% which is now that the temperatures sore and it starts becoming increasingly heated in the garage. Right now I just open the garage door say 30cm and that does an excellent job at letting cool air in and letting the hot air out. Now I have a contact on the floor that helps with knowing if the door is closed or not (I have left the garage door open in the past - face palm). I was thinking how we could do this automatically based on temperature(s). I have the temperature in the garage filtered through into C4 so I can use that as a reading.....I have a contact that tells me the door is open / closed.I have an alarm system to make sure the garage door doesn't open if it is set to away. What would I need to make 100% sure that the door would only open 30cm and no chance of it opening the garage door completely? Would appreciate the advise here ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 The tricky part is that garage doors don't always behave all that well. You would HAVE to do this when opening, as pulsing it again while closing would normally just open the door right back up.I wouldn't recommend this, as there is some risk here that you end up with the garage door open if things don't quite trigger well. Plus going to fancy on a garage door can create hazardous situation: I've seen garage doors kill. What I'd do is add a second sensor to the door, a contact at about 15cm height off the floor.Create a booelean variable "door stop" Then based on temperature change IF garage door is closed -> IF "venting" is false -> open the garage door and set "door stop" then when "contact 15%" closes, IF "door stop" is true -> toggle garage door, set "doorstop" to false That should stop the garage door - it may be at 20 or 25cm, but you can then play with some small delays under the contact closure to get the right height. Using a variable here instead of pointing back to the temperature prevents you 'manually' opening the door from stopping every time. As I write this though I dislike the idea more and more, you do this at your own risk - I honestly can't recommed this sort of thing -indeed would not do this myself, refuse to do this for clients- and would suggest a different method of cooling - fans to control with C4, or a vent you can motorize and control if desired: http://www.solerpalau-usa.com/dampers-louvers.html#AMDhttp://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Mtrzd-Damper-4C560https://www.teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/prod1;ts_shutters_vents;pg109812.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveControl Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 I see what you saying and it makes a lot of sense. Garage doors are dangerous from a health perspective and if you get it wrong your house is exposed as well. I will have to look at some of those suggestions. How are they controlled with C4, just through a relay? It would be nice if these guys built these things with their own thermostats that you could set and it would open and close accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveC4 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 I don't like the idea either, but using a second contact is the way I'd do it if I had to. That way you know it was only open to the level you wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 I see what you saying and it makes a lot of sense. Garage doors are dangerous from a health perspective and if you get it wrong your house is exposed as well. I will have to look at some of those suggestions. How are they controlled with C4, just through a relay? It would be nice if these guys built these things with their own thermostats that you could set and it would open and close accordingly.Yes jsut a relay, and yes many have a built in thermostat/temperature control too. You could go either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamT Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Just out of curiousity.......Why not a fan vented to the outside with a temp sensor that kicks the fan on when its needed? or two fans on either side of the garage with one fan pulling outside air in and one pushing out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper139 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Just out of curiousity.......Why not a fan vented to the outside with a temp sensor that kicks the fan on when its needed? or two fans on either side of the garage with one fan pulling outside air in and one pushing out?Because that doesn't use 5 relays, dealer programming, 5 hours of setting it up with Conposer HE, fiddling around with the location of the relay to get it to open just right so you can say "lookit', my house did that all by itself" Temp controlled exhaust fan...how boring! Cmon' man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Just out of curiousity.......Why not a fan vented to the outside with a temp sensor that kicks the fan on when its needed? or two fans on either side of the garage with one fan pulling outside air in and one pushing out?Isn't that what I already suggested?The advantage, should you want it, of adding it to C4 is allowing overrides for bad weather (rain.snow, hard winds), automatic changes to temp triggers based on outside temperatures etc.Also a vent would require all of one relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Because that doesn't use 5 relays, dealer programming, 5 hours of setting it up with Conposer HE, fiddling around with the location of the relay to get it to open just right so you can say "lookit', my house did that all by itself" Correction: "lookit" I made it so my house does this all by itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamT Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Cy, you are correct, I didn't read your last sentence in that post....sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveControl Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Now that everyone has gone in circles about the WHY NOT.... the real reason is I don't really feel like cutting holes into my brick work to fit a vent. The garage is double brick walls cutting through it is going to be a tedious, dirty and long project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 We're only suggesting! As I mentioned - I don't recommend doing it, wouldn't do it myself, but I also didn't erase the methodology of doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveControl Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 And don't get me wrong I appreciate any help I get on any of my mad ideas on this forum. I was just specifying the reason I was thinking of the garage door vs the vents. I love the vents neat, safe and there for the purpose. It's also a 80% 20% rule i only really have this issue 20% of the year. I could have also fitted an A/C into the garage and would have worked to.Sent from my Nokia 930 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illcrx Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I think you should test the hell out of that program, many garage doors dont like to be opened and stopped right away, they ignore that second button press, in my house I have to open it about half way then PRESS then it stops, then I have to PRESS again to get it to go down then PRESS it again to stop it. You run the risk of leaving your garage open obviously. Play with your door and get it to work consistently by hand before spending money on programming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c4Denver Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Agree with L-T regarding testing program. That said - you the-man if you have that kind of heat generated in a garage! You must have some kind of system! I've been struggling with a 3x8 room and am frustrated by heat removal. There are many posts on this site regarding heat removal, but, none that I've seen will really correlate to size and scope of what you're dealing with...that is, all solutions I've seen are too small to solve your issue. That said, there are very easy on-line aids (hate saying that as an engineer) that can help calculate the opening and fan size to vent the space. Not knowing your situation, seems the safer way to go. You could then manage the fan through control as you wish. (on/off) Just suggesting an option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illcrx Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Agree with L-T regarding testing program. That said - you the-man if you have that kind of heat generated in a garage! You must have some kind of system! I've been struggling with a 3x8 room and am frustrated by heat removal. There are many posts on this site regarding heat removal, but, none that I've seen will really correlate to size and scope of what you're dealing with...that is, all solutions I've seen are too small to solve your issue. That said, there are very easy on-line aids (hate saying that as an engineer) that can help calculate the opening and fan size to vent the space. Not knowing your situation, seems the safer way to go. You could then manage the fan through control as you wish. (on/off) Just suggesting an option!Denver, what issues are you having? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c4Denver Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 My small room is area underneath stairs, so, portion of room is height "challenged". House is only 3 years old. Builder basically put everything in this closet. It's in center of house with no external walls to outside and is located in basement. Room includes security system/panel, secondary 100A house panel (120V w/40 brkrs),, Control Mgmt Panel (all Ethernet and Verizon cable deadheads here) and my C4 rack. I read many helpful threads on this site and implemented a few of the ideas. Recently was able to put an open air vent (no forced air fan) between this room and an adjoining closet. Basically a 10"x10" hole with vent covers on both sides. It seems to really have helped! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c4Denver Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 LT - in case you were asking what C4 issues (vs installation issues), long story short, my 800 would just "freeze" and stop working. Since I now have 1" below and above the 800 along with some other changes to help with heat, the 800 has worked flawlessly (at least from the stopping/freezing viewpoint). issue has has pretty much gone away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.