jmb Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I'm having trouble with a light that doesn't go completely off when the switch it turned off. There is an LED light bulb and when the switch is turned off the light dims, but doesn't go completely off. There is a dimmer and a dumb switch. Everything has worked fine for 2+ years. I've powered cycled the circuit, not sure what else I can try. Does this mean the dimmer/switch is failing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 New bulbs? What generation lighting is it? The most recent curved style? Try a 15 tap on the top to reboot it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 It is the curved style. There are two bulbs, one is now out, assumed it burned out due to this issue, the other is an LED, been in for a couple of months. I rebooted the switch with the 15 taps, but still same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1amund Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hit the airgap switch on the top of the dimmer and replace the bulb(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownbatsbreath Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 The switch is fine. Replaced the burned out bulb, with the same wattage bulb as it was before. Post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowitall Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Yea you can't mix bulbs. Replace both with the same kind and 15 tap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'm assuming this is a dimmer. Chances are that you are lower than the minimum wattage with the one bulb - it would have been fine before because the two combined bulbs had a high enough wattage to cover it. Below minimum wattage will result in exactly what you see - the bulb(s) will either glow a bit, or flicker on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vitali Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I saw that issue before, client changed bulbs and got that issue- dimmer didn't turn light, off. I assume because he didn't restart the dimmer and device tried to work in mode not compatible for new load (forward phase instead reverse phase), So I changed dimmer after all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 5 hours ago, vitali said: I saw that issue before, client changed bulbs and got that issue- dimmer didn't turn light, off. I assume because he didn't restart the dimmer and device tried to work in mode not compatible for new load (forward phase instead reverse phase), So I changed dimmer after all. i order a new bulb exactly the same as the other one. Lets hope that solves it. Otherwise I guess i need to replace both the switch and the dimmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 On 2/22/2017 at 11:41 PM, Brownbatsbreath said: The switch is fine. Replaced the burned out bulb, with the same wattage bulb as it was before. Post results. I changed the bulb and put in the exact same bulb in both sockets. Both are LED PAR20 7W. I did the 15 tap reset and now when i turn it off, both bulbs go really low, but not completely off. I originally had a mix of the LED and a regular PAR20 bulb and everything worked fine until the regular PAR20 bulb burned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funnyfarm299 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 58 minutes ago, jmb said: I changed the bulb and put in the exact same bulb in both sockets. Both are LED PAR20 7W. I did the 15 tap reset and now when i turn it off, both bulbs go really low, but not completely off. I originally had a mix of the LED and a regular PAR20 bulb and everything worked fine until the regular PAR20 bulb burned out. What's the model of the dimmer? Is there a neutral connected to the dimmer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownbatsbreath Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Yes, because the regular PAR20 put you above the minimum wattage requirements. Put a regular PAR20 incandescent in again, and it'll work like before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 39 minutes ago, funnyfarm299 said: What's the model of the dimmer? Is there a neutral connected to the dimmer? It is C4-FPD120, a forward phase dimmer. There is a neutral connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 On 2/23/2017 at 11:36 AM, Cyknight said: I'm assuming this is a dimmer. Chances are that you are lower than the minimum wattage with the one bulb - it would have been fine before because the two combined bulbs had a high enough wattage to cover it. Below minimum wattage will result in exactly what you see - the bulb(s) will either glow a bit, or flicker on and off. I'm now suspecting that using two LED"s i'm still below the minimum wattage for the forward phase dimmer. When I had two of the regular PAR20's I was good, but now with two led's instead, I probably need to use an adaptive phase dimmer, right ? OR don't use the LED"S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownbatsbreath Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I think the forward phase dimmers have a 25 watt minimum. I think. FWIW I'm using an adaptive phase dimmer with one 9 watt bulb with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 ADAPTIVE phase is 1W WITH a neutral, 7W without BUT you can only do this with Incandescent and Halogen without neutral, LED and CFL are likely to not work well) FORWARD phase 4.5W WITH neutral and 25 without. Mind you I don't like going under 10w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 2 hours ago, Cyknight said: ADAPTIVE phase is 1W WITH a neutral, 7W without BUT you can only do this with Incandescent and Halogen without neutral, LED and CFL are likely to not work well) FORWARD phase 4.5W WITH neutral and 25 without. Mind you I don't like going under 10w Thanks, So if there are only two light sockets, you wouldn't use LED's as you'd be under the 10W, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMHarman Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Thanks, So if there are only two light sockets, you wouldn't use LED's as you'd be under the 10W, right? You can always use 10 w or 14 w led and set the max as 50% That may work. I have a outlet dimmer that I do that on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 35 minutes ago, SMHarman said: You can always use 10 w or 14 w led and set the max as 50% That may work. I have a outlet dimmer that I do that on. This. Use a slightly higher LED than you really need/want. From there you set the max output of the dimmer as desired/required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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