MakeItAMudLight Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Does anyone have an IR driver for a Samsung UN24H4000? We've tried multiple different Samsung drivers and the all issue a command but the screen says not available. Created a custom drive just for power on and off and it seems to only work sometimes as well. I've never seen anything like this with a Samsung TV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integrator_MO Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 I am having the EXACT same issue as we speak with a Samsung UN32J4000! It's driving me nuts! Any luck finding a solution by chance? The UN32J4000 does not have an Ex-link input, network input, etc... Have to run it on IR. I went to Samsungs website, and downloaded the latest firmware. Put it on a USB drive, ran it, took the update no issue, and still nothing as well. If I did not need discrete commands for sources, I would be able to get away doing the same with just Power Toggle. I'm going to continue to work through this myself. Please let me know if you hear of solution. I will do the same. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nawty Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Under 40" is a crap-shoot especially with the under 6000 series panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 I've found recent Samsungs VERY sensitive on IR placement. Try covering the IR (some black e-tape usually works well at least for testing purposes, cleaner final options can be added later). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MakeItAMudLight Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 8 minutes ago, Cyknight said: I've found recent Samsungs VERY sensitive on IR placement. Try covering the IR (some black e-tape usually works well at least for testing purposes, cleaner final options can be added later). This is a 2013 model. It's getting the commands it just doesn't like them. Any of them. It's hooked to a matrix so it doesn't need anything but power on and off and even that is proving difficult with a custom driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Lowe Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 i would just learn in the power toggle for the remote and let the customer know how it works if it should ever get out of sync. or keep trying similar driver discrete commands take the ir out of the plastic house and attach directly to limit interference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 1 hour ago, MakeItAMudLight said: This is a 2013 model. It's getting the commands it just doesn't like them. Any of them. It's hooked to a matrix so it doesn't need anything but power on and off and even that is proving difficult with a custom driver. Don't take this the wrong way, but did you try the driver for that exact model in the database? - I know it'll say 'serial' but it's in fact an IR driver..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Mind you I'm going by the model number you wrote down, not the link that goes to a completely different TV model.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MakeItAMudLight Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 7 minutes ago, Cyknight said: Mind you I'm going by the model number you wrote down, not the link that goes to a completely different TV model.... Yes the model i typed is correct. The link was showing the tv on Amazon but I guess it sold out and is now pointing to a different model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MakeItAMudLight Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 15 minutes ago, Cyknight said: Don't take this the wrong way, but did you try the driver for that exact model in the database? - I know it'll say 'serial' but it's in fact an IR driver..... And yes tried the exact driver and it didn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integrator_MO Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 5 hours ago, Cyknight said: I've found recent Samsungs VERY sensitive on IR placement. Try covering the IR (some black e-tape usually works well at least for testing purposes, cleaner final options can be added later). I would agree with you. Unfortunately, the issue @MakeItAMudLight and I are having is def outside of the IR placement. The TV's are responding to codes, and some of them work such as volume, menu, and so on. Except for the needed ones (Power & Input selection) In my specific case- We're working with 3- UN32J4000 TV's. All three TV's are acting the same. I've gone a little over the top attempting to trouble shoot it. Try not to laugh to hard ha, but leaving out the typical things already attempted such as placement, multiple different samsung drivers, new emitters, etc., I've tried the following- Firmware updates on all 3 TV's Bypassing signal transmission through the baluns, and going directly out of the controller via c4 emitter on all 3 TV's Trying two different controllers Creating an entirely new project Factory defaulting the TV's Confirming the TV's specifications & options within the engineering menu are correct More powerful emitters Editing drivers & changing the emitting counts Removing any the TV's from any power surges & confirming proper voltage to the TV's And the list goes on... I def don't think this is a C4 issue, seeing @MakeItAMudLight is having the same problems with the similar series TV. On this project out of state and need to return asap. Tomorrow (today) I'm going to try some of these things as well- Reaching out to my samsung rep to see if a miracle might pop up from their engineering side. Bringing my box of old samsung remotes, and some other smaller size samsung TV's to play around withs Picking up a logitech harmony remote to see if the codes exist in their database Reaching out to some industry buddies working with other control systems who might have some codes to try I will be sure to keep you posted if anything works out asap @MakeItAMudLight. Appreciate everyone's input so far. If anyone has any other suggestions (even crazy ones), all for it. Please share. Knowing my luck, this issue is probably something really dumb... ha. Thanks again everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 4 hours ago, MO_Integration Engineer said: is def outside of the IR placement. The TV's are responding to codes, and some of them work such as volume, menu, and so on. Maybe. But I've heard people say that literally dozens of times....only to come and move the IR and/or put a cover over top of it. Heck I've driven 800Km/500 miles each way once on a Saturday night (with a replacement TV and controller), moved the IR over once and drove back because of an 'emergency'.....increased the cost of a kid's birthday party dramatically.... It's next in line after 'there's nothing wrong with my network'. Quote Picking up a Logitech harmony remote to see if the codes exist in their database This is your best bet. In fact I think having one in your (backup) toolkit is arguably a great idea to begin with. I wonder however, if you use it and find it works how it will turn out once you re-learn the codes. Because I'm still not convinced the issue lies in the codes at all Here's one extra tip before you do anything else though: Take a controller, and tie the TVs to the IR BLASTER, aim the controller (easiest of course with an EA1 of HC250) and try the codes.....if that works, you're looking at placement. Some really are just that sensitive - as Matt mentioned too, I've had to crack the casing and use IRs 'direct' to get it into quite the right spot sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MakeItAMudLight Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 I'm pretty sure it's not the IR placement because the TV is actually getting a signal. It just says Not Available no matter what signal you send it. Have also moved the IR multiple times and got the same result. Pick up the factory remote and it responds just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippavisual Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Yup below 40", Samsung has dropped the usual known discrete codes. Dealt with a 32" a couple months ago. All known discrete codes will show a "not available" popup on the tv. I've moved on to using commercial displays for 50" and under, not worth the hassles or calls later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integrator_MO Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 10 hours ago, Cyknight said: Maybe. But I've heard people say that literally dozens of times....only to come and move the IR and/or put a cover over top of it. Heck I've driven 800Km/500 miles each way once on a Saturday night (with a replacement TV and controller), moved the IR over once and drove back because of an 'emergency'.....increased the cost of a kid's birthday party dramatically.... It's next in line after 'there's nothing wrong with my network'. This is your best bet. In fact I think having one in your (backup) toolkit is arguably a great idea to begin with. I wonder however, if you use it and find it works how it will turn out once you re-learn the codes. Because I'm still not convinced the issue lies in the codes at all Here's one extra tip before you do anything else though: Take a controller, and tie the TVs to the IR BLASTER, aim the controller (easiest of course with an EA1 of HC250) and try the codes.....if that works, you're looking at placement. Some really are just that sensitive - as Matt mentioned too, I've had to crack the casing and use IRs 'direct' to get it into quite the right spot sometimes. @Cyknight you are completely right. I've def walked similar paths, and I should know better to give up so easily on the IR positions, and removing the housings. Especially when having "one-of-those-days"... Always best to circle back on it with a less stressed approach. Therefore, thank you! Unfortunately, no luck with any of the suggested options today. Including my own. Only option left is the Harmony. Will be picking one up here shortly. Hoping for the best. Otherwise, I will be learning the non-discrete Power code directly from the remote, and picking up a small 2x1 HDMI switch to control the input selections at the TV. Thankfully, the client understands the situation due to him purchasing these models I did not approve for the project, or purchasing them through us. @MakeItAMudLight - the above option I mentioned, might be an end all- be all- option for you as well. Thanks again for the suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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