Dimmers / Switches and Keypads

[ILoveControl]

Have a quick question i have a few 5 and 3 leaver normal light switches they are in normal 2x4 wall boxes. Really dont want to chop the wall to put one dimmer or switch per light switch on a five or three light switch leaver. Is there any better way to do this. Additionally the house has slabs between three floors so getting to the actual wiring is a nightmare

 

Question 2: i have two massive chandeliers they on one circuit but they pull together 900w most of the keypad dimmers or normal dimmers I have seen are maxed out at 800w is there any keypad or normal c4 switch that can handle this load?

 

 

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[Cyknight]

Regular switch is full 15 amp.

Alternatively if dimming is desired, the C4 dimmers are compatible with several 'boosters'.

 

As for a better way to deal with your other issue, not really. There could be options depending on the location of the current switches, the wiring etc, but that's not something I can really comment on without knowing the site.

[Matt Lowe]

1 hour ago, ILoveControl said:

 

Have a quick question i have a few 5 and 3 leaver normal light switches they are in normal 2x4 wall boxes. Really dont want to chop the wall to put one dimmer or switch per light switch on a five or three light switch leaver. Is there any better way to do this. Additionally the house has slabs between three floors so getting to the actual wiring is a nightmare

 

Question 2: i have two massive chandeliers they on one circuit but they pull together 900w most of the keypad dimmers or normal dimmers I have seen are maxed out at 800w is there any keypad or normal c4 switch that can handle this load?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

do the 5 and 3 switches all need to be controlled independently? could combine some lights to a single switch or dimmer.

are they hidden from view normally? might be able to put in a small panel module.

 

[ILoveControl]

Thank you for the answer -

They do have to be controlled individually for example on a five way :
1 for main bathroom lights
1 for night light over Mrs basin
1 for my basin
1 for dressing section
1 for veranda at the main bedroom

Thought bout a panel but have no way to get to the wires unless I chop the wall to figure out where they are. Thats what I trying to avoid



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[ILoveControl]

Regular switch is full 15 amp.
Alternatively if dimming is desired, the C4 dimmers are compatible with several 'boosters'.
 
As for a better way to deal with your other issue, not really. There could be options depending on the location of the current switches, the wiring etc, but that's not something I can really comment on without knowing the site.

Thank you for the reply.

The amps is less of an issue the wattage is how I understand it being an issue 900w of chandeliers

What so these boasters do? What is the model # or do you have a URL i can read?


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[Matt Lowe]

3 minutes ago, ILoveControl said:

Thank you for the answer -

They do have to be controlled individually for example on a five way :
1 for main bathroom lights
1 for night light over Mrs basin
1 for my basin
1 for dressing section
1 for veranda at the main bedroom

Thought bout a panel but have no way to get to the wires unless I chop the wall to figure out where they are. Thats what I trying to avoid



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

do you need all individually controlled? might just break that down to 2 maybe 3 dimmers

 

[Matt Lowe]

1 minute ago, ILoveControl said:

Thank you for the reply.

The amps is less of an issue the wattage is how I understand it being an issue 900w of chandeliers

What so these boasters do? What is the model # or do you have a URL i can read?


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lutron has a booster 

 

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369476.pdf

[Cyknight]

12 hours ago, ILoveControl said:

The amps is less of an issue the wattage is how I understand it being an issue 900w of chandeliers
 

Watts = Amps x Volts. As you Volts are stable at 110 or 220, it is arguably the AMPS that matter as WATTS are a derivative of that amperage rating.

 

[ILoveControl]

On 1/23/2019 at 3:51 AM, Matt Lowe said:

do you need all individually controlled? might just break that down to 2 maybe 3 dimmers

 

Yeah in some instances I do let me give you an example. 

In the main bedroom there is a single 5 leaver switch.

1. One switch controls the his LED's above the basin.
2. Second switch controls the hers LED's above the basin.
3. Third switch controls the main bedroom lights. 
4. Fourth switch controls the downlighters from the main bedroom to the open living area (makes a path one can follow without turning on all the lights)
5. Fifth switch controls the balcony of the main bedroom

Each are actually useful. Right now I just added two switches (C4) luckily the electrician could find the conduit between the two, but this means I have the dressing room, bathroom fully on and the second one turns on the main bedroom as well as the balcony.

Does that make sense?

[ILoveControl]

On 1/23/2019 at 4:42 PM, Cyknight said:

Watts = Amps x Volts. As you Volts are stable at 110 or 220, it is arguably the AMPS that matter as WATTS are a derivative of that amperage rating.

 

+

Thank you once again @Cyknight interesting you say that as the electrician only worked out the Watts. Can you work out amps from Wattage I am on 240v.

[Cyknight]

900w at 240v is simply 900/240 = 3.75 amps. At 240v the switches, off the top of my head mind you!, rate at 8 amps.

[ILoveControl]

This was a house I bought. The switches in one room usually loop from one main return to the next switch on the wall they not individual as I was thinking of running these to the DB and then just putting some dimmers there and talking to them via a keypad.

The current switches go down to the basement via conduits in the slab unfortunately so I can cut the slab open to get to the conduits. Tried some fish tape but the runs are so long that the fish tape either runs out or it starts coiling