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garage door hookup with I/o


mct

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Newbie here. so I run a 22/2 from garage door motor to the relay on an i/o extender, red wire in the com1 and the other wire in the NO or NC?

contacts: one in 12+ and the other in the sig?

how many watts should I put in the window in composser? for the relay?

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Relay on C and NO (Normally Open). The relay should close then open again to work like a garage door opener button.

This will not work on all garage door openers, but it should work on most.

Sig and +12V for a contact sensor input.

Watts is pretty much irrelevant, as it's only going to calculate any watts during the time the relay is closed, and that's not really going to be related to the number of watts your opener is actually expending to open or close the door.

RyanE

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  • 2 months later...

The terminal has four connections (red/white and the other gray/white). I have tried both combinations on each. The older relay/contact extender is connect via IP verified in network tools.

When I connect the I/O with COM/NC and then connect to the Red/white terminal the door activates, but I still cannot get the c4 command to work from a navigator and the hard wired garage door button in the garage will not work.

I had it working before and made some changes some time ago but could not remember if I need to connect it in certain order.

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Did you check if the relay itself is actually closing? Should be able to hear it.

If touching a wire across two terminals opens the garage you've got the right ones - another way to check is if you have a wired button and can trace what that is connected to.

While is all depends on the garage door, but keep in mind that it's not impossible you need to connect, say, red to the grey/white to do this.

If you can find out the model you should be able to find an install manual online saying where to wire an opener to, which would also be where you'd wire the relay to.

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I found an older post which has the same liftmaster with lock and light.

"With all the help here,(ILoveC4+RyanE), my dealer and I worked it out. The buttons do have electronics for LOCK and LIGHT (Liftmaster buttons) but we ran the relays in parallel and it works fine."

I don't know what it means to run relays in parallel?

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Works better if you link the post for context, but basically it should mean that the relay connection is done separate - it's not in-line with another relay (or button).

So you have a separate (two conductor) wire from the relay direct to the motor.

-------------\----------- x2 vs --------\--------\--------- x1

Best I can do without knowing the full context of that post. I could speculate about wire runs going to a current button and rigging it up to do a parallel from there and a number of other possible off-beat scenarios but...

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Thanks.

Yeah this pertains to not having the relay in serial (so two breaks in one line) but to make sure it's parallel as per my previous post. Sounds sort of like they may have been wiring to the durrent button locations, not the terminals on the actual motors. Quite possible, but potentially confusing.

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I am not following your example.

-------------\----------- x2 vs --------\--------\--------- x1

The garage opener has 4 inputs

Red/White/White/Gray

All are currently occupied with One connection Red White and the other Gray/White

I assume they coming from an internal button within the garage for open with a Light and Lock buttons. the other I assume are goint to the keypad outside the garage.

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The "drawing" was more about parallel vs serial. Ignore it for what you're doing right now.

With the C4 connection disconnected, at the motor try "shorting" 2 connections at a time with a piece of wires. Whatever combination (and only one combination should work) opens/closes the door is what you connect the the 2 wires from C4 to.

Which wire you but to which connections on the relay doesnt really matter (other than using NO and COM).

That should be all there's to it.

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I am not following your example.

-------------\----------- x2 vs --------\--------\--------- x1

The garage opener has 4 inputs

Red/White/White/Gray

All are currently occupied with One connection Red White and the other Gray/White

I assume they coming from an internal button within the garage for open with a Light and Lock buttons. the other I assume are goint to the keypad outside the garage.

The grey and white wire to the sensors that stop the door from closing on things.

Wire it up so you shove the 22/2 wires in to the motor along with the wires from the button. You can verify this is correct by touching the two wires together. If the door opens, its correct. Then connect them to the relay as outlined above. It's really straightforward.

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