jesh Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Hi all,Noticed my TS's heat is acting strange lately. Seems like it will run for a while, hit the temp it's supposed to hit (e.g. 70), turn off, then turn back on again. I'll hear/see the furnace shut off, then immediately the coil will begin to re-heat, and the furnace will fire again.Any ideas? Using power stealing, and the AC works great. It's not a big deal, but not sure why it's cycling like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipperman19 Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 You need to set an over shoot of a few degrees so that the room can heat up a little over what you want, and then cool back down a few degrees below the temp you want. Then it will heat up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted November 19, 2007 Author Share Posted November 19, 2007 You need to set an over shoot of a few degrees so that the room can heat up a little over what you want, and then cool back down a few degrees below the temp you want. Then it will heat up again.Is set for 2 degrees, but I will check to see if it may have gotten reset somehow. I've been noticing the TS is showing the 'battery' icon occasionally, then it goes away. Might be another issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipperman19 Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Maybe the power stealing doesn't work properly? Or it might just stop stealing power when the heat shuts off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted November 19, 2007 Author Share Posted November 19, 2007 Maybe the power stealing doesn't work properly? Or it might just stop stealing power when the heat shuts off.Dunno but it stops after 1-2 cycles... Not like it keeps doing it. It works fine otherwise, which is wierd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted November 19, 2007 Author Share Posted November 19, 2007 Over/undershoot got reset to 0. Not sure what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipperman19 Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Yeah, that will do it. Atleast it was a quick fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 Well the problem is back and the temp is set to +2 overshoot just to be sure. Anybody have any ideas? I mean it's not BROKEN but it's just stupid it cycles 2-3 times before it gets there...note: since new update, I notice the battery icon will come on once in a while, even though I have power stealing enabled... any ideas!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 Still unresolved... anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takitezsdc Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 I have 2 TS and they BOTH used to do what you are explaining, all the time..... I had to replace the batteries every month to resolove this. THEN all of a sudden it stoped doing it. I think it might have been an update ?Are you running 1.3.2.234 ? Make sure the TS and your system is updated and see if that helps?Also, try going in to the TS and check things off and on and reset temps ect. I have noticed that you need to make sure things are really set where they say they are. Meaning, an undershoot MAY say it is a 2+ but you might need to go in and reset it to make sure it is really working. Then refresh the system.Good luck, I was so frustrated with this problem and then it just went away...../shrug.ALSO try rebooting your MC and /or network. I have found that 99% of problems that are baffling, are usually your network.Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 1.02.09 Firmware on the TS. Can anyone confirm this is the latest?TS Has ALWAYS seemed really slow to update (temps, etc) even when I change the temp. on the remotes... is this normal? I have a ton of switches/dimmers nearby (90+). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemay Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 jesh - sounds like you're either power stealing or running 100% on battery. Either way - if it's running on battery at anytime - the zigbee is turned off and does NOT check in that often with the controller. So if you tell it to turn on / off - it may take 5 minutes or longer before it registers your request (all in an attempt to conserve battery power).01.02.09 is the latest as of v1.3.2 of Composer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 I am doing power stealing, with a battery installed also... Still not sure why I'm having this cycling issue!!Tried everything everyone has suggested to no avail... help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemay Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Stop power stealing - I PROMISE you your problems will go away. Cycling issues are known problems with a large amount of furnaces on the market - they don't like having power stolen away from them. Get your HVAC guy to run a common wire to the thermostat and I know your problems will go away. Not to mention - the thermostat will stay on 24/7 (meaning the Zigbee communication will always stay running, thus no delay when you tell it to turn on from a remote etc...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 Do you run a common wire from the HVAC unit's 'COM' to the TS, or..? It's been a long time since I installed this, would have to run through the manuals again.Stop power stealing - I PROMISE you your problems will go away. Cycling issues are known problems with a large amount of furnaces on the market - they don't like having power stolen away from them. Get your HVAC guy to run a common wire to the thermostat and I know your problems will go away. Not to mention - the thermostat will stay on 24/7 (meaning the Zigbee communication will always stay running, thus no delay when you tell it to turn on from a remote etc...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemay Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Taken from an internal troubleshooting guide at C4:"The connection for the common wire is from the HVAC systems Transformer, it is usually labeled C it is connected to ts/c on our thermostat. This is located furthest to the right." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesh Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Thanks! Will have my electrician stop by and run a wire for me.Taken from an internal troubleshooting guide at C4:"The connection for the common wire is from the HVAC systems Transformer, it is usually labeled C it is connected to ts/c on our thermostat. This is located furthest to the right." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strange_brew Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Stop power stealing - I PROMISE you your problems will go away. Cycling issues are known problems with a large amount of furnaces on the market - they don't like having power stolen away from them. Get your HVAC guy to run a common wire to the thermostat and I know your problems will go away. Not to mention - the thermostat will stay on 24/7 (meaning the Zigbee communication will always stay running, thus no delay when you tell it to turn on from a remote etc...).Shawn, can you confirm that when on power stealing the TS is NOT acting to strengthen the Zigbee network? It may explain why I'm having range problems - my TS is halfway between some switches/KP's and the HC-300. I thought it was passing the signal so was confused on why I was having range problems. Looks like I need a common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemay Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 It depends if it's stealing power or not - and if there are extra wires. For example, I have one zone in my own house that steals power but there is no AC - only heat. So when the heat is on - there are no extra wires to actually steal power over... at this moment the battery kicks on until heat turns off. During this time, no Zigbee repeater (and the battery indicator lights up on the thermostat) - when heat is off - the LED is off and thus Zigbee is on full time.Now - I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat even acts as a Zigbee repeater to begin with (if Ryan's reading this - he can confirm). I don't usually rely too much on anything as a good repeater EXCEPT Card Access's products... when we've needed to strengthen - we'll get an external antenna'd contact sensor and plug it in to AC. This works great to repeat Zigbee up to 300ft in the house - and we've used it more than once to help strengthen even "OK" signals to near perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punkrock Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 use a common wire... if you have the old version 1 TS then you will need to clip two points on the diode. there is a sheet from c4 on this. my batt indicator stays on 24/7 with the common wire. I tested the batt after 3 weeks and its fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slemay Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 If the battery indicator is staying on then it is using the battery for power and your common wire is NOT working!!! You can do a simple test to verify this: Yank the battery and put it back on the wall... if it works then you confirmed common is working, if it doesn't - then you've confirmed you're running off of battery. FYI - I ran for almost two years off of battery and had them last about 6-7 months before they'd die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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