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Nice! It’s about time. I had two of them that had the Phoenix connector and everything on them but disabled in firmware. UL issues. The production ones didn’t even have the connectors I don’t think. Good to hear it’s a box now, and hopefully they just put that connector block back on. 

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I suspect it's about 50/50 for those that want the connector block back vs. those that want wire nuts.

Pushing solid 14/2 (or worse, 12/2) back into the box when it's connected to a block is a *lot* harder than pushing them back with wire nuts attached to some nice (thinner, appropriate for the device) stranded...

RyanE

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7 hours ago, RyanE said:

I suspect it's about 50/50 for those that want the connector block back vs. those that want wire nuts.

Pushing solid 14/2 (or worse, 12/2) back into the box when it's connected to a block is a *lot* harder than pushing them back with wire nuts attached to some nice (thinner, appropriate for the device) stranded...

RyanE

Agreed 100%. The simplicity of not having another item there is attractive but you’re absolutely right about that being difficult. 

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I had the same issue with Phast Gen2 (swimmer) dimmers vs. previous Phast dimmers and Control4 dimmers.

The swimmers had screw terminals, and the Control4 dimmers have leads.

Even with deep electrical boxes, the screw terminal versions were much harder to install, since there were 4 (12-2 in my case) wires to push into the box (Hot / Neutral / Ground / Load).

RyanE

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8 hours ago, RyanE said:

I had the same issue with Phast Gen2 (swimmer) dimmers vs. previous Phast dimmers and Control4 dimmers.

The swimmers had screw terminals, and the Control4 dimmers have leads.

Even with deep electrical boxes, the screw terminal versions were much harder to install, since there were 4 (12-2 in my case) wires to push into the box (Hot / Neutral / Ground / Load).

RyanE

See, that’s normal though. You do that with any switch. I feel like all the wire nuts get in the way. 

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14 hours ago, ILoveC4 said:

See, that’s normal though. You do that with any switch. I feel like all the wire nuts get in the way. 

No, they're different from normal switches in a couple of ways...  Dimmers are considerably deeper than standard manual switches (so push back is more difficult to begin with), and dimmers also have more wires to bend back into the box... standard switches only have 3 (2 if you're using a metal box), dimmers have 4+.  Outlets are also harder to push back for this same reason (passthrough outlets have 5 wires), although they're not as deep as a dimmer.

Lastly, screw lugs (due to their design) require the dimmer body to be larger than the same dimmer design with leads.  Those screws and their connection to the circuit board take up space inside the shell.  Leads just get soldered onto the circuit board and come out a hole in the shell, which leads to a smaller dimmer body.

This is of course my own opinion, but I've personally installed hundreds of outlets, dozens of manual switches, and over 50 dimmers, *twice* in the same boxes, one time with screw lugs, and one time with pigtails, and the pigtail installs were easier IMHO.

RyanE

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