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Control 2022 LG OLED TVs over serial?


slim42dog

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CEC is turned off on all my inputs.  

I wouldn't have this issue if my receiver was a 2.1 receiver, but it's not and I'm not going to replace the integral R1 just to go 2.1 at this point.  My inputs on TV are  APPLE TV, XBOX, PS5 and RECEIVER.   Receiver covers the switch, c4 on screen, and Luma Cameras.   I wanted Apple, xbox and ps5 to have 2.1 ports as they all support the higher refresh rates.   

Just looking into alternative control options if I can't figure out the IP Control issue with switching inputs on start up.   It's odd, cuz it works if you turn the tv off then back on it switches no problem.  only when in standby for awhile.   

I'd prefer to keep always ready off if I can, just to limit the power usage.  Supposedly thats what Quick Start+ is for lol.  

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? Quikstart+ leaves all aps running in the background - it won't lower your power usage at all. In fact it will RAISE it. Also it's pretty well known to cause any number of issues with hanging apps, slow apps and slow webos interface.. Turn that junk off.....

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cable type is more a matter of null vs straight. For this I'd suggest using a basic z wire (security device cable) - 4 conductors is all (actually 3) you should need and they're a bit beefier than cat cable. at it's an unclocked connection, 30f shouldn't be an issue. If using a EA or Core controller, it's easiest to use a 3.5mm stereo cable, connect it to the wire you ran color to color and use the EEA/Core option to change the output between null and straight.

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was talking to my dealer earlier .. what's your thought of this?

https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Ethernet-Adapter-Cable-2pcs-2-Cable/dp/B0811RHPLJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rs232%2Bto%2Bethernet&qid=1674159046&sr=8-4&th=1

paired with - https://lgparts.com/products/ead62707902 at the TV end.. then another one at the EA Controller end. 

What you suggested may be easier though.  for 3.5mm stereo cable, is that just a basic stereo cable you can get off amazon?

appreciate your help.  If I can get this to work, I'd prefer this over IP Control.  

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To be clear: I'm assuming you have an EA or Core series controller serial/IR combo port available so you can go 3.5 to 3.5

This is simplest as you just match color to color on the end and use the controller's ability to switch between null (cross) or straight serial output.

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So if htat EA has a port free on 1 2 or 3 (or if one of those ports is just using IR and you have another port available to move that too to free up one of them) going 3.5 to 3.5 direct is a lot simpler. Less parts, cleaner and the built in option of not having to worry about what type of serial connectivity there is 🤷‍♂️

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per my c4 dealer, quickstart+ is required for IP Control.   something along the lines of if its not enabled, there may be a 30 sec hold when powering up TV for it to receive commands.   What's odd is I feel like thats still happening, as the command to switch input is very inconsistent on booting up the tv.   

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On 1/20/2023 at 11:17 AM, slim42dog said:

per my c4 dealer, quickstart+ is required for IP Control.   something along the lines of if its not enabled, there may be a 30 sec hold when powering up TV for it to receive commands.   What's odd is I feel like thats still happening, as the command to switch input is very inconsistent on booting up the tv.   

The same dealer that's suggesting 3 piece of cable...

Quickstart is intended to start up apps faster, has little to do with TV startup (it may delay it by a second or two).

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Cyknight,

I got the security cable, ran that to the TV and Rack and bought those 3.5 MM ends you sent me.  talk about an easy install.   Waiting on tomorrow for them to do the programming.   Anything to know ahead of time besides setting if its straight or null?   There's nothing on the LG that needs to be enabled to accept serial commands?   excited to try this method out. 

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Nice.

As for allowing serial, off the top of my head there's a setting somewhere to allow it yes it'll be in the hidden menu - just google lg hidden menu to find how to get there. As for null or straight, well it's so simple to change it on an EA is not even worth trying to figure it out beforehand....literally a click. But MOST of them should be null

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Up and running in no time.  There was nothing needed on the TV end to enable serial, just had to update in the driver to command over serial vs IP.    Simple, wish I could have done it :)

now I'm planning to switch my other OLED upstairs to work over serial as well.   

Thx again for the tip on the security wire and termination ends.  

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