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So if ANPR wasn't enough for you maybe our new face recognition driver will wow you! This driver makes use of Microsoft's Face API and allows you to, via a web interface, add the name of people and add faces to those names. The driver will then work similarly to our ANPR driver and once a programming action is triggered (in C4 programming) we will capture the image from any URL or IP Camera (supporting Basic & Digest authentication) and then try and identify a person in it. If a face is identified then either the Known Face Detected event will be fired which will allow you to make use of the Person Name and Confidence Level (0-100) variables to program based on who was detected. If the face identified is unknown the Unknown Face Detected event will be fired and allow you to program based of that scenario. The driver also includes the ability use an image in the push notification. The image available will be the image when there was last an identified face. This lets you, for example, have a push notification sent to you with the image taken when there is an unknown person detected. Images The Microsoft Face API provides 30,000 free requests per month. Each identification takes between 1 and 3 requests. Requests are also used when adding people and their faces. Generally, the 30,000 is enough for most installs if the trigger for detecting faces is reasonable – i.e. whenever motion is detected may not be reasonable, but when a line is crossed (Hikvision cameras or active beam sensor) would be a better use of the limit. The driver is available on BlackWire Designs here: https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/control4-face-recognition/

Seems to me that you should be talking your client in to putting the AVR on the network and doing this properly with an IP driver?

I went about 50 feet, but the brightness faded significantly. It wasn’t super noticeable until the 2 ends came closer together. I went the route of adding a second power run. I have 2 full strips fed by one, then 1.5 strips fed by another. There’s a bit of voltage drop in the 2 full strips but it’s not bad.

you would set a variable Party MOde started = true and then you would have to program every button If party mode != True >>exectute commands Then when party mode is disabled set party mode started = false

Visual aid:

The TP-Link Kasa integration using the Chowmain driver is excellent, as are all of Alan's drivers. We use the TP-Link Kasa smart plugs in our showroom for various devices and they have been great. That said, the C4 switches are not overpriced, they just offer better integration and control that you get from a third party solution.

I use this for Subwoofer amps where I’m not super worried about it taking an extra second or two to turn on. The 12V trigger is slightly more work, but is better.

Jet airplane, huh? guess we are flying different planes. Having actually compared them - the "cheap" blinds are not particularly loud, in either absolute or relative terms. Louder than Lutron? Sure, but unless you have some special needs, you're going to be using them about three times/day, roughly 30 seconds of the 86,400 in a day. I enjoyed spending the ~13K I saved on something other than my C4 dealer and a Lutron shop. Maybe it's just me

Sure, buy the cheap blinds, but be prepared to hear a jet airplane taking off every time they are used. if that doesn’t bother then great. Otherwise, Lutron and QMotion would be top choice, with the higher end Somfy models as third. Some Somfy’s are extremely loud too.

I would really suggest getting a dry contact and wire it up to a controller or Z2io for a much better experience https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/

This is where macros can save you a ton of time. If you’re calling a macro from a bunch of places, you can go add the conditional to the macro.

This explains a True/False variable: https://www.control4.com/documentation/Composer_HE_User_Guide/Using_Custom_Variables_Agent_Boolean1.htm It goes into detail on how to find the variable agent and how to use the Boolean Variable (True/False). It even gives a front door scenario. If someone is at the front door or if someone is not at the front door. So you would use the same idea if its holiday or not holiday. So first step, go to the agents in composer and select Variable and create a Boolean (True/False) variable called Holiday mode. Set it to true (because it is the holidays right now) In your programming - I am not sure what doorbell you have but on the trigger of the action (button press, whatever it is called) you would do the following: On the upper left pane scroll down to variables and pick the new on you created and go to the conditionals IF holiday mode is true Play Holiday Door Bell (or whatever the file is called, again not sure how you are playing the sound through what service) IF holiday mode is false Play Standard Door Bell (or whatever the file is called) Notice the indents on the second line, that nesting is required. Now you can have several ways to to create buttons to go back and forth between holiday mode and regular mode. Your dealer can add an experience button. Or you can create a custom button: https://www.control4.com/documentation/Composer_HE_User_Guide/Program_Using_a_Custom_Buttons_Agent.htm when you create the custom button call it Holiday Mode or whatever and the action of the button would be to toggle the True/False variable you created in the first step. You can see if the toggle is working because if you go to Agents > Variables > Holiday Mode (in monitoring tab in Composer HE) you can see the current state of the variable. Press the custom button again and go back to Agents > variables > Holiday Mode and the state should know be the opposite. Get the doorbell working first. Then you can do the same thing with exterior lights/outlets with Christmas lights, program a Wemo to turn your Xmas tree on/off (really easy to do if your alarm is hooked up into C4), etc. Hope that is helpful.

If the Alexa Link is what's plugged into the matrix what tells the matrix which output to use (ie which room to play music in)? This won't work. Seems C4 doesn't have the ability to program the matrix to turn on a specific zone when that rooms Alexa is initiated (at least as of now). You can tell Alexa to play xyz then initiate another command to have the C4 switch to appropriate room. Only way to do it seamlessly is have a dot for each room and each zone in the rack into the matrix.

I ran 280 feet of cat 6 from my main switch to another switch in my rv using underground conduit. If you have dish you don’t need anything else except the single cat6 cable. Dish Joey just connects to your secondary switch. (It’s what I did also ) Absolutely no problems at all. I setup another wap inside the rv as well. Try to keep your cable run under 300 feet between your switches

We're always busy now that we are working on 6 month cycles (ISE / CEDIA). The question is now do you want to wait 6 weeks versus do you want to wait 10 weeks before we start working on a project Back on topic. We spoke to the guys at Caavo (https://caavo.com/) at CEDIA Expo. Their product does just this. I asked them to expose their API so that we can do this on all the control systems we support but at the moment they are using Crestron's voice input to display the data on their own onscreen UI. Hopefully sometime in the future they will have implemented bi-directional communications and if so we'll develop a driver for them.

Run Cat-6 to the boathouse, and put a Unifi Outdoor AP at the boathouse, and one at the cottage as well. I have one of these devices on my pool cabana. The range is supposed to be up to 600ft outdoors. It functions fine in temperatures lower than you get in Texas. You can run multiple drops or just put an 8 port switch in your boathouse for more than one device.

Yea

Composer 2.9.1 use driver wizard. Add all possible switching commands under custom codes. IN1OUT1, IN2OUT1, IN3OUT1, etc. When it's time to put the serial codes in, use quotes for ASCII commands like this "01V01." make sure to put a period . after each command inside the quotes. Try a couple of codes first to make sure it's working, then put in the other 62 codes. I made a 4x2 driver with Driver Wizard fairly quickly, about 20 -30 min, but it was only 8 codes. it might take a while with 64 codes.

Yep. Delete all the programming. Install the Control4 power amp driver. Build virtual bindings for the rooms and sources. Bind that relay. Job done. Your programming overthinks something C4 already wanted to save their dealers hours programming.

ARC sucks because it can be so inconsistent. Get a streaming device (Roku, Shield, ATV etc). IMHO.

Hi, thanks for the reply, sorry only just seen it. I will have a go at that this week.

Although I understand that programming may not be everyone's cup of tea, I feel like those indicator LEDs on Control4 keypads are their single most useful feature and they should be properly utilised. Ahh… should not have mentioned it without trying it out. I'll update the post (for the sake of others who might refer to it in future). Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

If you have Composer HE, check the Component Auto Update Event and the Component Forced Auto Update event in; Agents - scheduler and that it is set to daily. Mine was defaulted to Weekly and had to wait nearly a week for the previous Neeo update.

think its a limitation of the zigbee sleepy devices. not to mention control4 will be putting all their effort going forward into new features for the neeo.

Thanks @msgreenf. It's nice to see a consolidation of some of the most asked questions regarding voice control. If ANYONE can't get a hold of their dealer and needs 4sight or Composer HE, don't hesitate to contact me. * Please be sure you are not voiding any warranties or service contracts before deciding to take more ownership of your system. Note: 4sight can be purchased directly from your account.

Sorry I think you misunderstood my point. I'm not expecting for people not to discuss our driver on this forum - if you search back over the last 5 years that our driver has been in existence, you'll see several threads where I've encouraged it and participated heavily in the discussion - in fact it has been our only form of marketing and we've sold over $200,000 worth of the driver since 2015 when we released it as a result. My point is that I would never expect/ask someone to refund me for a driver, via a public end user-centric forum, several months after purchasing said driver and never having even really attempted to properly get support for a driver that didn't work on my first attempt. But to each his own.

It's going out tonight

Haha, Matte Black is the new Black!

Would love to see a pic of the volume feedback! Can’t wait to get home from work!

This is C4 programming 101 and covered in the 5 day automation programmer training required by all C4 dealers/technicians.

That just means you haven't favorited cameras to the room

I have a project with lumilum and dmx driver.. I extended the runs in between ceiling trays with electrical OS cable 18/4.. total 155-160ft..

Have you allowed the port of the ea3 to access the vlans through the unifi software? You can test this by plugging in your laptop to the port and accessing the cameras via iP if the pages load you’re all good and it should work. With hikvison you need to make sure you have enable the correct settings via their webpage. These should be - enable digest / web auth - enable gci / isapi protocol - set sub stream to mjpeg Hope that helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't used those capacitors with Control4 to be honest, but there is nothing about them that is Lutron specific other than being made by Lutron. I understand from reading this thread that you are moving to Control4 lighting! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Ya, like@msgreenf said, this sounds confusing. Something isn't right. I hope you're not going to blame the way electricity works either. Lol. Thousands, maybe even trillions, of these types of lighting are installed and they work if wired properly. You can only use one 3rd gen c4 load controlling device (KD) in the circuit with 3rd gen aux keypads only (for 3-4-5 way). Nothing else. No other brands of lighting either. Not even gen 1 or 2 light controlling devices (or keypads) can be used with 3rd gen either for 3 way. If you tie together the necessary wires (or sometimes cap) in the other switch boxes in order to achieve one location doing all the stitching, and the light still turns on automatically, then maybe there's one more switch box somewhere else that you missed. Or your wiring isn't as "right" as you think. Since you mention no aux are installed yet, you should be putting a cover/faceplate on the other switch boxes in the related circuit. No configurable keypads (KC) can be used for load switching in any circumstance. Those are purely set up for programming. I highly recommend you get an electrician involved and show the wiring diagram. Don't make yourself liable or reliable for a profession you don't have a ticket in. I'm only trying to constructively criticize your efforts. This is for your own safety and others. Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

I was comparing straight HDMI cable vs. video distribution systems (HD Base T, VoIP, etc.) that compress/process/decompress the signal and add additional latency. Many newer displays have low-latency game mode (and variable refresh rates) to improve gaming performance. Video distribution would negate those benefits whereas straight HDMI would not.

i just went through this. may not directly answer your questions, but some info below - There are no connections on the back of the tv besides the one connect cable port. it is proprietary to samsung. - anything you want to connect to the tv needs to go through the one connect box - on my tv (slightly different, but likely same setup) the power is also routed through the one connect box - the one connect cable is not rated for in wall use - snapav has just released an in-wall backing box that is large enough to accomodate the one connect box called the versabox XL - this was announced literally days after i installed my box. the previous versaboxes are not big enough to fit the oneconnect box, so i ended up having to cut a giant hole in the box to push half the one connect device behind the wall, a bit of a nightmare. hope this helps, happy to answer any questions, don't believe there is any way to get out of this, if i was in your situation, id install the larger versabox, store the one connect box directly behind the tv in the wallbox, and then keep my existing cable setup.

Correct, you cannot use an IR port as a relay. You would need an IO Extender to get you enough relays to do what you would like. The audio matrix option is a good one, I would recommend going that route as you get room and volume control through the Control4 as well as the matrixing sources. With a couple of converters you could have 3 individual audio streams into it, playing across your 6 rooms.

Honeywell 951WG-WH Stubby Recessed Magnetic Contact Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UKY1A4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QDreEb1365AQ2 Crammed against the copper coil that moves the pushrod. That is wired into 12v and contact input signal port of an ea3 but can be any controller with contact/relay ports, a z2io, or iox. Then the doorbell button is pressed the electromagnetic field trips the sensor and you can program accordingly.

I've had my system for over 8 years and haven't done anything yet because I don't want to commit. I need to decide...

That was me. Really I was just commenting that the CNCL button on the C4 remote is mapped to HOME in this driver. When the Apple TV updates it changes the default of the HOME button/command to load the ATV (ATV+?) app rather than the home screen as it did before. If that doesn't make any sense to you I guess you probably don't need to worry about it.

I've got SR260 remotes on original rechargable batteries for several years. Almost all phones and tablets don't have rechargable batteries and are used daily.

Wanted to find out how you guys are dealing with multiple instance of Shairbridge and Spotify drivers in a project? Do you separate them with household members, or by grouping? Right now I have multiple Shairbridge and Spotify instances running and they're based on what zones will be engaged such as "Airplay - Main Floor", will automatically turn on all zones on the main floor. Likewise the same for Spotify. Is there another way how you guys are using?

I don’t have a problem with Control4 pushing this out. It partially filled a gap they have very quickly. What is ridiculous is doubling the price of what the Neeo remote was.

Finally got my dealer to install this for our 4 ATV 4Ks - works very nicely, much more responsive than the Zigbee IR solution he had to rig up after the tvOS 13 update

Most of the gripes are physical - battery and lack of buttons. Those cannot be fixed with software releases.

If it's a used wattbox then it's most likely registered to another ovrc account and needs to be released by the previous dealer. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Btw there are quite a few Lutron dimmers that require using the neutral. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pretty cool! Got this setup now working on my cameras!

Working on it now. Its a little more complex for amcrest but once I have it working for amcrest and reolink that means I can add it to every driver