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I installed a Serena shade in the master bathroom over the tub (would've been very hard to reach). Added two more to the master bedroom, also. Added some voice commands, Sunshine and Privacy to open/close. Scheduled the blinds to close at bedtime. Setting up the two that face the morning sun to open incrementally as the sunrises. Added some voice commands that simplifies everything for her. Not that exciting, but "happy wife" applies here, for sure.

Congratulations, you've discovered Feature Flags... Feature flags are a mechanism that allows Control4 to release new features that *should* only appear for users in particular categories (development / beta / production), and *should* not be enabled unless they're specifically enabled for that release category. On the Neeo remote, for example, we use feature flags during a feature development, and then 'turn it on' once it's passed all tests, etc. Eventually, we update the code to remove the requirement for the feature flag. Feature flags have a *lot* of advantages, in terms of being able to make last-minute decisions as to whether to include or not include a feature, because the feature is in the build much sooner than it is released. If we find last-minute issues with a feature, we don't have to make a new build to 'not release' that feature. Feature Flags are integral to Control4's updated release cadence. For example, the Neeo remote does a release nearly every 2 weeks. If every feature had to be inserted / removed from the build any time it's status changed, we couldn't do that. Unfortunately, you have discovered the downside... If someone fumbles the feature flag, users in production may see the feature / part of the feature, and it may or may not work... It looks like someone made a mistake and likely had a feature flag turned on for production that should not have been, and the feature didn't work due to reliance on an update elsewhere. RyanE

Used a Kasa outlet to automate my white noise machine. Can I get a standing ovation? 😝

I think we are well aware of your opinion. If you think it's not a good deal, don't buy it. It was released with announced features, and has added many features since then, and continues to add new features. I thought it was a great remote then, and I think it's an even better remote now. RyanE

All you need is an RTSP decoder with an HDMI out. Plenty available everywhere. Now how to configure that decoder will be dependent on the hardware. I personally use a Videostorm system at home and some clients. This is built in natively where the cameras are just sources in the matrix. But, I can do PiP popups and keep watching what was on the tube. PiP shows for 60 seconds then goes away.

Overused, sure, but it's also the number 1 reason home automation/control systems don't work. Look, do what you want in the end. But if you want easy control over a complete house, no DIY system will do everything you want (unless you're there to work on it 24/7). Biggest issue that I see in this thread is that people are trying to control devices that don't want to be controlled. YOU CANNOT expect to 'have all this stuff' and just have it work (C4, ELAN, Crestron, whatever - doesn't matter). OP, you've had the worst luck. Sonos, MyQ... But in the end, the problem with those is still the 'other' party. SONOS broke the old API (and implemented a poor excuse of a replacement). MyQ made the changes, and has since stated they are refusing to create an official API. Why complain that C4 doesn't have the 124+ zone honeywell, when there are alternatives available (and no, you cannot tell me those alternatives are worse -or better- in any particular way.? If you're building a new system, match the devices with what works best. Don't look at the device first, look at the integration first. MOST MAYOR brand devices that don't integrate well don't integrate well because they aren't able or willing to MAKE it work well on their side. Yep, I'm sure this post will get some 'hate' - but you don't have to like the truth.

you've referred to MyQ a few times. I still have the driver and it works fine - at least as of last night it still worked fine. For a few bucks you can also get some sensors to put on the door, a spare relay, and you are in business again - probably less than $300 in parts and quick remote programming. What I have learned - stick with c4 drivers or 3rd party drivers with direct support from the vendor of the product of integration. If you look at MyQ's website they do not list C4. But say look at NuHeat - they mention c4 and its a paid driver (just 1 of 10,000's of examples). The good thing is C4 is going through the driver database and talking with 3rd party drivers and mandating unsupported aka hacked 3rd party drivers cease to be sold. So I think the 3rd party headaches should be minimized over time. What does sonos offer that native C4 is not offering you? You mentioned a matrix breaking, I mean I've had C4 hardware since 2013 and here I go cursing myself, the failure rate has been almost non existent. But yes, things do break over time. If I had to do my home again I'd still go with C4. Maybe plan it out a bit different and make a few small changes here and there but overall the platform has a lot of power, lots of integration partners and there is enough DIY to keep me happy and enough dealer support where I can throw in the towel and just get it working right if its above my pay grade or I am just too busy. People do complain about not being able to add their own devices but honestly, how often are you adding a TV or a light switch or something. When people complain about that I wonder how often they buy hardware. When I started with c4 I had 4 Tvs, after 6 years I added a 5th TV.

don't think you should be going in business then...

Forgot to add I got a few extra kasa outlets and automated if the sewage ejector pump for the basement loses power it cuts water to the house so people can't really screw stuff up. Also put ones for the water shut off valves that if power to them goes off I get notified.

Chowmain - Power Outlet Experience Button Driver for Control4! Chowmain releases the Power Outlet Experience Button driver for Control4. This driver provides icons in the style of your power outlet for your region and can be bound to any relay. We have made this driver ridiciously cheap ($25 USD MSRP) so that it can be installed in every project.Features Experience Button provides toggle control with feedback Property to change between type A/B/C/D/E/F/G/H/I/J/K/L style power outlets for the experience button. Relay Binding POWER_ON boolean variable ON / OFF events ON / OFF commands ON / OFF / TOGGLE Button Bindings + LED Feedback FAQ What is the purpose of this driver? This driver adds a power outlet icon in the style for your region to navigator with bi-directional control and feedback. Works with any relay binding. What smart sockets and outlets can i use with this driver? This driver is compatible with any relay bound outlet. This includes (not limited to) the following range of smart plugs and outlets TP-Link Kasa - Driver https://www.chowmainsoft.com/tplink-control4 KP100 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug Slim Edition https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-plug-slim-edition-kp100 KP103 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug Lite https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wifi-plug-lite-hs103p2 KP105 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug Mini https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wifi-plug-mini KP107 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug, 2-Outlets https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wi-fi-plug-2-outlets-hs107 KP303 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip, 3-Outlets https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/smart-plug/kp303/ KP200 - Smarter In-Wall Outlet https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wifi-power-outlet-kp200 KP400 - Kasa Smart Outdoor Plug https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wifi-outdoor-plug-kp400 HS100 - Smart Wi-Fi Plug https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/smart-plug/hs100/ HS110 - Smart Wi-Fi Plug with Energy Monitoring https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/smart-plug/hs110/ HS300 - Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Power Strip, 6-Outlets https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wi-fi-power-strip-hs300 Belkin Wemo - Driver https://www.chowmainsoft.com/belkin-wemo WSP080 - Wemo WiFi Smart Plug https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-WSP080/ F7C063 - Wemo Mini WiFi Smart Plug https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7C063/ F7C029 - Wemo Insight WiFi Smart Plug https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7C029/ Lightwave RF - Driver https://www.chowmainsoft.com/lightwave-control4 L42 - Smart Socket (2 Gang) https://lightwaverf.com/collections/all/products/smart-socket L41 - Smart Socket (European) https://lightwaverf.com/collections/all/products/smart-socket-2-gang-european Control4 - Driver included with composer LOZ-5S1-WH - Wireless Outlet Switch - https://www.control4.com/solutions/products/outlets/ How do I find out more information about the driver? Please see the links below for more information about the driver. Chowmain Website How do I buy the driver? This driver can be purchased from our distributor driverCentral. Download Driver / Purchase Licence Do you provide trial licences? All Chowmain drivers for Control4 come with a 90 day trial. Who do i contact for technical support? We have two support desks. One in Australia and one in the US. Click on the link below for details. Support

Good things come to those that wait...

Wow is he saying he lost most of his jobs because of control4 keypads ? I really like the look of them. Not sure how he wants them to look.

I took some ideas from @msgreenf - for my personal home office I made a few Webhooks bookmarks so I can click a bookmark to toggle mute and other bookmarks to change inputs for audio. no need to reach for my remote, a touchscreen, voice commands, etc. just click a button on my browser.

There are probably a million options for this that didn't exist in 2013 when this thread was last discussed 😜 For everyone else I'd like to state that although my name is Matt and I was indeed born in 1983 this is not my burner account.

For what it's worth, that had been my approach as far as High Lamp only for HDR (and 3D) for the past several years, for exactly this reason. But edit: *not* long after getting the NX7, I've changed it. I have a large screen (160" diagonal 2.35:1), and so generally have the iris wide open, for both Low and High Lamp. What I decided is to keep it in High Lamp, even for non-HDR content, and then close down the Iris to the same light output as I was getting in Low Lamp. This increases the contrast significantly, for a better picture overall. And if I then need to replace the bulb sooner than otherwise, I'm okay with that. I've spent so much on this stuff that what's an extra bulb going to mean?? 😁

Just thinking about it - how about a car play C4 app to access gates, garage doors, alarm etc. Think that would be great

The class doesn't make you a dealer. The class makes you an installer. To become a dealer is an entirely different exercise that you go through with your Regional Sales Manager or his reports, who determine if you are qualified business-wise as well as technically to be a Control4 dealer, and these days, it involves having an actual showroom, and purchasing minimum amounts to start, and yearly thereafter. RyanE

Definitely depends how you use it. I have automation like shades and lights go up/down on/off different times based on sunrise/sunset. I have my daughters room/bath set for bedtime at night on a schedule, cleaners arrive put in their code all lights on, music on, shades up, take snapshot before and when they leave goes back way it was, we use mocupancy when we vacation etc etc. If you just want control use homekit/alexa/google and their built in apps. You will be happier having that control it sounds like. That being said maybe you didn't fully get what c4 was capable of, maybe peruse this thread quickly to get an idea of what can be automated and where C4 shines way above the rest.

"It's the network." It certainly can be, but this is the most over-used excuse ever.

ps...the latest CarPlay will show the garage door. and it only shows when close your home.

The connection is made locally over WiFi. I don’t think you need an Alarm.com account or central monitoring, but I don’t know for sure since I have both setup with mine still.

We only required MQTT to publish data to ThingsBoard. I ended up writing our own driver last night to do this instead and its working well so far.

I switched to Intrinsic driver and will never look back, Apple Native Integration with C4 sucks ... Sorry ☹️

I was amazed to say the least!! you should have seen my face, when I gently bent the remote back straight and now it looks like nothing even happened to it lol. I am wondering If my dog might have jumped on the bed and bent it? because both my wife and daughter really do swear they had nothing to do with it and did not even use that remote while I was gone. Plus they weren't even in the bedroom. Either way; neo is definitely built Rock solid and pretty crappy all at the same time, if that makes any sense . For it to be able to bend so easily like it did and then bent it back with ease was not good at all. But then again, for it to be able to bend, then bend back, still work amd actually look like nothing even happend is a testament to the remote itself :-) So you can see the remote is rock solid And I would put it Up against any other remote on the market today. Does it have its flaws? Well of course but thwy are always making improvements. Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

I have my money on a Doorbell - Looking at the Intercom App - A Doorbell would work well with it

DoorBird works with all your questions. Can even program the lock button on the doorbird app to control a smart lock. D101 was their original least expensive unit. They have a much nicer looking version now.

Bindings - its a simple fix. He has the room level bindings for the tstat set to the wrong tstat. Again, if your dealer can't get it done, I'm happy to help!

The open incident is only in registering new AppleTV drivers, not with currently installed and working drivers. RyanE

If your lights are 12v, you’ll need a transformer. If you want to dim it, consult with the transformer manufacturer on the best type of dimmer to use and install the corresponding C4 dimmer. Please note, 0-10v dimmers are made for sending a 0-10v dimming signal to drivers/ballasts that are made to accept that signal. They are NOT meant to supply voltage directly to your low voltage light fixtures.

I have not had this issue. Really the only thing i have heard to be an issue is price and finish options. However i typically win them over on programming features and rgb status and ease of use with in control4.

Annoucing our new ADVANCED LIGHTING GROUP driver, now available on DriverCentral at https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/advanced-lighting-group.

Made a "Happy birthday" (Or cake day for those across the pond) scene in the rooms we most commonly celebrate the Kitchen and Keeping (Den off the Kitchen). Takes snapshot, Lowers shades, dims lights, stops music/TV/ etc for 1 min to sing, then all goes back way it was. I need to find a 30 sec mp3 or wave of Happy Birthday and I'll add in that announcement too.

Proximity sensor to wake without touch facial recognition to maybe give a user defined presets built in voice with Alexa or google I can dream

Think of connections as the virtual representation of the physical wires that run to and from your system. There is an HDMI cable between your Roku (or cable box or whatever) and your AVR, and another HDMI cable between your AVR and your TV. Both of these would be configured in Control4's connections - the HDMI out from your Roku would be connected to the input on the AVR, and the HDMI out from the AVR would be connected to the input on the TV. With lighting, connections allow installers to "bind" a light switch or dimmer to more loads than the locally wired load, or to bind keypads, etc. that don't even have a load wired to them to control lights. The lighting scenes created in the Advanced Lighting Agent also expose a connection point, in the same vein as the HDMI on the back of the TV. Likewise with the light switches and keypads. So if I use the connections tab to link the output of a keypad button with the input of an advanced lighting scene, that button on the keypad now controls the lights. The connections/binding method is generally viewed as slightly more reliable, quicker to activate/deactivate, and more likely to "just work". However, as you know, the downside is that they can't be modified with Composer HE. You can change the contents of the scene, but you can't remove or add the scene from a button. The same end effect can be done with programming: "when the button is tapped, then active scene x." This takes slightly more processing power however, and in a very busy system can seem very slightly laggy.

https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/c4-device-renamer/

I did have a few KASA switches installed a few days ago but haven't used the outlet (explanation below). 1. Outlet: I didn't use this after all because electrician informed me he had wired the outlet of interest (below BBQ island, for high pressure misting pump) to a switch location in the media closet. I figure it's easier to use a switch indoors and save the 1 smart outlet I bought for a future use. 2. Dimmer: using this for a sconce outside a door from garage to side-of-house. It's scheduled for on at night and off in the morning so this is a no-touch use case. 3. 3-way Loft switches: using this for a 'loft' we're in process of finishing which connects both kid's rooms. We're going to build ladders for each of them and know they'll be leaving the lights on so easier to have smart switches to shut them off instead of someone climbing back up there. I already tested with an Amazon Dot in a kid's room and it's simple. Being a C4 Forum no real highlight here since I haven't integrated into C4 yet. The point here is that for low-priority areas of a house these seem like a reasonable option at ~ $25/each. Quality of dimmer is acceptable but certainly lower than C4 and I wouldn't use them as substitute for my main lighting but for auxiliary areas they're fine. Original intention of smart outlets (not switches) is still of interest and will probably use those behind kid's TVs (we barely have any lamps in the new house).

Glad you got it fixed. Unfortunately, this is one of the drawbacks of using feature flags. They aren't foolproof, but they're extremely handy when you're doing short release cycles, and when features are not quite 'ready for prime time', but still need to be available to developers and testers. RyanE

It's as big of problem as getting a 4k TV for broadcast....

okay, nevermind. Apparently I did a bang up job of whitelisting...or something. I ended up disabling my dns based filtering, rebooted the controller, and the features have returned. Sorry to take up people's time with this. Thanks for the help!

I love mine. Only thing I wish for is backlit keys. In my blacked out theater, it’s still awkward to find the correct hard button to press.

Save your money on buying Audioquest. Can't believe people still spend $$$ for snake oil cables. Best passive fiber HDMI= Ethereal InstallBay. One side is source and the other display, so it is directional. Very slim and easy to pull through conduits, if required. I have every length installed in many installs for quite a long time with zero issue.

That's not at all how 2nd audio endpoints work.

Ok, great, since my system is quite old, I will follow your advise...and chill for now with my working composer. In any case you definitely have hero status with me for today! Thank you again, Mariano

Get rid of the "device not responding" error with voice commands. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Give this a try. RyanE RoomMediaInfo.c4z

And it should also be said... you can change your dealer as many times as you like over whatever time period you decide. It's one of the things that you can control yourself from the customer portal.

We use the RGB experience driver which gives the ability to easily cycle through however many preset colors a customer wants. Have yet to have someone complain about that. It's simple and it works.

this needs to be native heres hoping for OS 3.2

There are so many other factors to choosing a projector: application brightness required screen size native aspect ratio throw distance ambient light levels budget Go and speak to a professional and get them to sort it for you.

That would be a surreal piece of hardware Sent from my E6603 using Tapatalk