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Hello Everyone, After numerous reports of aggressive and abusive behavior, the user wappinghigh has been given a final warning and banned from posting on this site indefinitely. This community was built to help others, and his behavior directly contradicts this. If you have any thoughts about this please reply to the thread, I will be monitoring it. I am sorry to everyone affected that this didn't happen sooner. Dan

There is a driver just for this purpose in the Control4 online database. I created it for my house, because it's annoying to smash your lock into the door jamb. It's called "Door Auto-Lock (OS2.9+). As you can see in the name, you have to be on at least Control4 OS 2.9 for the driver to work. You add one for each door (that also has a separate contact), and connect the lock relay connection and the door sensor connection. You then turn *off* the auto lock on the lock itself. The only downside to this is if the Control4 system is down, your doors don't automatically lock. It's an Experience Button driver, so it can show up on the UI, shows door status (Locked/Closed, Unlocked/Closed, Locked/Open, Unknown). The driver will lock on expiration of delay seconds, *after* the door is closed. If the door is opened and then closed, the timer starts again, so in my case (delay set to 300 seconds), if I answer the door, shut the door, and 4 minutes later, I answer the door again, the lock will engage 5 minutes after I close the door again. The driver has: 3 Experience Button icon sets (one red/green, one green/red, and one black). The red/green vs. green/red is because for some people, locked should be red, and other people think the locked state should be green. the ability to configure whether the Experience button UI allows unlock or not If not, it can be used to lock the lock when the door is closed, but not unlock the lock. a configurable auto lock delay, with a much longer delay than some of the manufacturers' locks. button bindings so you can connect the driver to keypads, and show door state with LEDs, as well as control the lock with the keypad button. events for Closed/Locked, Closed/Unlocked, Open/Locked, and Open/Unlocked. commands to Lock (if door is closed) / Unlock, and Enable/Disable, so you can program turning on / off the 'auto lock' feature. I use this when I have houseguests during a party, etc., so the door doesn't automatically lock. It works with any of the controllable door locks and requires a 'door open' contact installed (any kind). And it's all for the low, low price of free (plus dealer installation). RyanE

Motion sensor under beds that turns on bathroom light to 40% during certain times and under certain conditions. So if you get up in the middle of the night to use the facilities it is lite up for you. For the bedrooms that don't have a bathroom it will activate the hall lights to light the way to the bathroom.

Hey guys, We are aware of the issues that have been described here. One the issues was due to improper implementation of the our cloud driver on the developers side. This was fixed after we discovered what was causing this. We see some mentions about drivers not reactivating properly in a slightly different fashion lately. It appears to be with Chowmains drivers. We are investigating this, and will have a fix this week. It could be his drivers, or it could be us. But either way, we will get a fix out as quickly as possible. Now in regards to the recent server outage, I see some concerns about DC being a single point of failure. This outage shouldn’t have worked the way it did, the licenses should have continued as normal in this situation. But we fixed the issue pretty quickly. And are still making improvements over the next week. The drivers we’re back online within 1.5 hours. We’re really sorry for any inconvenience it caused anyone. And we really try our hardest to make the experience as seamless as possible for customers, and dealers. All of the developers that sell drivers on the site are extremely busy most of the time. And when we identify issues we all work together to get it fixed as quickly as possible, albeit occasional delays due to life and busy schedules. Thanks

Hmm. In conjunction with the new ATV 4/4K driver, there is also an update to the 'old' driver. So it's easy enough to see how one might think THAT would be the 'updated' driver. Unfortunately not everyone lists themselves for dealer info emails (especially not in companies with multiple programmers installed) - and even then it's always possible to 'miss' one. On top of all that there has been a recently created 'new' IR driver that has been touted on the dealer forums as well for the past month or two. Don't get all aggro on a single dealer/employee over what COULD be a simple mistake/misunderstanding

7 years of support is good in electronics. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPhone ~7 years ago the iPhone 5 was released, they ended support in 2017. Just shy of 5 years Cost of replacing an iPhone is basically the same cost of an EA3 - $1,000? So if they supported your HC800 for ~7 years and it still works sans a few options, is that truly that bad? They are not forcing you to retire the HC800.

Ok, so you can't migrate a project unless your system is currently working and you can log into the current director. Based on the fact that his 800 is dead i'm going to say that's not an option. You will not have to program this from scratch but you will absolutely need your dealer to do this for you. It shouldn't be a difficult task for any half decent dealer as long as there is a backup of the project.

I think it was more or less him posting in just about every thread about the HDMI gestapo and the Hollywood devils. super annoying when people are trying to get help or information and he’d come barging in to make 20 posts of the same thing. Nothing against the guy, but clearly needed to take his angst somewhere else.

I don't think Alex was being agressive or abusive. Sure he is eccentric and goes off on some rants that really don't have anything to do with Control4 but in the end he wasn't out there to get anyone. Back when did Control4 installations for Recluse AV i used to program his house up. Not a bad guy once you get to know him.

Ended up find that the stereo out 2 on the HC800 was at 0 causing all my issues. Might want to check that. make sure your bindings are still good.

Just sold a home I have a 2 button keypad at Front door and Garage entry door and just reprogrammed the "Welcome" and "Goodbye" scene. Also set up a custom button on all touch panels labeled "Realtor"- Welcome and Goodbye Welcome, turned on all TV's and displayed the TV navigator Sent a Smooth jazz playlist to the entire house (correct background volume levels) Adjusted every light in the house to mostly 100% Turn on the fireplace Turned off the screen savers on all touch panels and TV's

I’m going to be contacting them directly. But by also posting here I hope to raise awareness in a way just opening a support ticket doesn’t. This seems to be a DC problem. But it should concern every developer who uses the service because most people are going to blame the driver and not DC (look at this thread - my first instinct was to fault Chowmain)j

Yeah most licensed are lifetime linked to the controller. However I don't think DC will change the whole licensing model to store the certs on the Controller. However a function to keeps licenses active for up to 90 days after the last checkin should be easy to implement - maybe we should send DC an email. If they get enough feedback there is a fair chance, especially if one considers security equipment and heating - both can have catastrophic effects if not functional

Boy do I feel you on this. I've been through two new builds also and a basement finish project. It sucks when you feel like you have to watch them and tell them not to do dumb stuff. I could tell you some stories. The other issue is they will treat you like you don't know what you are talking about as an excuse to do a piss poor job. ok rant over. I've also been through 4 or 5 dealers in my area and it is not fun. Keep looking and changing dealers until you land on a good one. Also there are some good remote dealers that are very helpful, if you can manage the wiring and install from your end. @AK1 is who I use. as to the topic, my ATV has taken to randomly playing music and the screen saver has stopped working, so I'll be talking with my dealer about the drivers. Hopefully we can resolve it, because it is annoying. I like to fall asleep on the couch watching movies and lately i've been waking up in the middle of the night and there is the TV stuck on one screen. Frustrating.

I think there is an untapped market for features that merge contextual information on the screen. I'm not sure people know they want it yet. That is overlays/picture in picture/toast notifications/tiling etc. The tricky part is how to make all that work with the flexibility to do it with the content people are watching. Also, what methods do you give people to interact with the screen and content and how do you manage sound for multiple sources. e.g. If I am watching netflix 4k content I want a alpha channel mixed toast notification for camera alerts to show above netflix. I then want a way to "select" that toast notification to then switch to a pip overlaid on netflix of the camera feed. I then want some way to select of the sound is mixed from netflix and the camera feed. Today if I want to do this it requires a lot of complexity. I'd like that complexity reduced. If you can reduce it in a vendor agnostic way then more people will find ways to become more efficient and enjoy the features. If we didn't have to deal with a lot of encoding and tradeoffs with audio formats I'd be a lot happier. It's possible I'm an edge case. Many of us multitask or mix content by watching the tv with a smartphone or tablet in-hand. More than one screen. Not everyone wants a tiled screen with video, tickers and web feeds. I do. I think this has a real purpose in a commercial setting like bars and waiting rooms etc because there is a real need to deliver content and entertainment at the same time.

Yeah my oldest daughter has been using this functionality since she was 3 on her wii.

Thanks to Matt, I am now able to refer to C4 without using expletives. New construction...had a terrible integrator who wired things incorrectly, was unprepared, upselling unnecessary things, and usually answering questions with "can't do that" or at best--will be a few months and always at least $1K. Enter Matt Lowe via these forums. He listened to me first, then proposed a range of solutions and recs. He was always immediately available, honest, and knowledgeable beyond C4. And didn't stop til stuff worked the way I expected. Between Matt and the other helpful folks on this great forum (many good people offered to assist--thank you), it has made me not regret my decision to go with C4. The hardware is high quality, the integration foundation rock solid, and having Composer HE puts a lot at an end-user's fingertips. Thanks Matt--well done. I only wish you were able to do the whole install from the start. Guys like you deserve the business. And I will certainly have more come your way. Cheers Frank T

Seriously, just swap the fan already.

This review has been long over due. Let me first start by saying that Neil is a professional and stand up guy. He shoots straight with none of the BS you might get from other installers. That being said, here is my short story. I had been looking for a remote integrator since we bought our house back in 2016. I stumbled upon this site and Neil's contact information, so before even registering I emailed Neil. This was around 8/17 His response was very quick and knew what was best for what I was looking to achieve. After a couple days of email exchanges and phone calls, I pulled the trigger on my phase 1 DIY install. The whole planning and going over everything only took a couple days. He sent the invoice for the equipment, paid for, then I had them shipped to my office. Problem was that when the equipment arrived, it was towards the end of 8/17. BAM! We were hit by Hurricane Harvey and our house flooded with 2 feet of water. Only a couple days after receiving my equipment in the mail. My wife and I were devastated, as this fell on our 1 year anniversary of the closing on our newly built home. During the whole ordeal, Neil kept in touch texting or emailing ever so often to see how we were doing. Fast forward to almost a year later after getting most of the house put back together (8/18), I was finally ready again to start the phase 1 installation. During the whole time Neil was so professional, polite, and by far the most patient person. All of my control4 boxes just sat in the upstairs bedroom we had stored everything we could save from the flood, so I didn't even remember everything we had purchased. (side note, do not let your wife go through your boxes alone. she was cleaning up our "storage room" and ended up throwing away a couple brand new c4 thermostats, thinking they were old ones that had already been replaced :eek: ) Over the course of a couple weekends, I installed all the equipment I could find and gave Neil a ring to to program everything. He was very understanding of my demanding work schedule and that I was an hr ahead of his time, he still took a couple evenings to make sure everything worked properly. We did hit a couple snags, with some sensors not communicating with the EA5, but he took care of that swiftly and had newer sensors sent my way to complete the install. I am now getting ready to start phase 2, and look forward to working with Neil again. If you want a professional integrator that knows their stuff, Neil is your man! Thank you for your patience Neil. Look forward to doing more business with you in the near future.

SINCE HOUSELOGIX IS CLOSING, ADVANCED DMX DRIVER IS NOW MIGRATED TO THE BLACKWIRE WEBSTORE. GET IT AT: https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/advanced-dmx-for-control4/ You need a dealer account to log in, pricing is the same as before and licensing is very similar. The new version on the Blackwire marketplace is a update over the last on Houselogix and fix a bug on all group dimmer driver that failed to initialize on larger project, this is fixed in version 2.2.1 available at Blackwire marketplace.

My two cents....let's not start controversy over something that is purely speculation at this point. The HCs have limitations due to being flash vs android, and there will absolutely be fatures that work on one but not the other, but the 800 is still a killer controller.

I updated last night to 2.10.6 and noticed the driver update for my old Apple TV's said (Gen 1-3). I did a quick driver search and saw the new Gen 4 & 4K driver, which I installed. The driver automatically dropped in the Apple Bridge driver, and I started to read the documentation. I have 2x 4K apple TVs (32GB and 64GB) and it was a little confusing to setup, but I followed the documented instructions step by step. Something to keep in mind is that the very first steps listed are if you do NOT have the Apple TVs already setup. If you do, you just need to make sure AirPlay is turned on and each Apple TV has it's own name (i.e. Parent's, Kids, Living Room, etc.) Once I set up Apple Bridge Control on the Control4 iOS App, it added the Apple Bridge to the HomeKit stuff, and then each "remote" was the Apple TV. Basically, it's a "next, next, next, done" procedure. Afterwards, I selected which apple TV the driver was to control via the dropdown list within the driver, and it instantly started working. No need to fiddle with network settings, etc. although my Apple TVs are already on a static IP. The added customization to the remote (SR-260) was really nice, as now I have access to the "press and hold" features of the original remote, and I can customize them to just about any button. I chose the RBYG buttons since they currently don't do anything. Hopefully this helps some of you.

There are KB articles on this for dealers or installers with access. It's not a 'click once an done' method. I don't mean to rub it in but you're asking a pro question in a diy forum. Try dealer forums.

There's a correct way to do it so that you don't have to start from scratch. This method will also migrate your zigbee mesh over so you don't have to re-id all the devices.

I must say, the new camera experience is infinitely faster! Well done C4!

@david@berto.co.uk I'm preparing to try out your driver along with https://github.com/Koenkk/zigbee2mqtt I'm curious if you have seen anyone go down this path or if you have tried it yourself. My objective is to interface with a wide range of Zigbee devices without additional hubs.

This. Anything you have programmed off of a "press" in C4 will activate anytime you press the button. If you move your singular light programming to "single tap," you will notice a short delay in the lights coming on as C4 is waiting to see if you hit the button one or two more times before executing the programming. This will eliminate you activating both actions with your double taps.

Try this on your computer Click on Start Menu, type Homegroupthen click on Homegroup Control Panel. If a homegroup is not available then create one. Click Change Network Location > click Discoverable Yes. Right-click the wired or wireless network icon in the System Tray > click Open Network and Sharing Center. Verify network shows as Private Network

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6zknya85s86h2sl/satellite_BT_YouView.c4i?dl=0

Got it - had to reset latitude and longitude.

Assuming you are using the IP driver by the way - yes each one needs to be paired Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

This should now be resolved. Sorry for the delay.

I do something similar for a Nintendo Switch. It's hooked up to a TP-Link Kasa smart plug with energy monitoring. Then when the switch is dropped into the dock, the TP-Link smart plug senses increased power draw flowing through it. Then Control4 sees the increase in power draw from the TP-Link device, and takes action turning on the TV, and setting the input in that room to the input of the Nintendo Switch. So the action of manipulating the Nintendo Switch (the increase in power draw) tells C4 to do something (power on or power off the TV, plus set the appropriate input). C4 is not controlling the Nintendo.

I I'm having modules installed literally as we speak. There will be modules for the fridge, freezer, oven and drawer fridges. According to the wolf rep I can remote start ovens, monitor temps, etc. I'll report back on what it can and cannot do in both the native app and C4.

Our TP-Link suite now supports inwall switches, inwall dimmers, various outlets, powerboards and a whole range of smart bulbs including RGB bulbs and color temp bulbs. Really happy with the TP-Link range of products and will continue to integrate the products as they come out with new stuff.

Great. Then go be happy somewhere else. This is a control4 forum not s control4 sucks forum. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I know this isn't what you're asking, but it's been almost 10 years since Control4 upgraded from embernet to ZigBee Pro, and you're unfortunately likely to have a hard time finding embernet switches, since there's no downgrade path to get them back to embernet. It might be more productive to get a newer controller that runs 2.x, and upgrade your current dimmers/switches to ZigBee Pro. RyanE

You can get around this using the local source driver so that Director only uses the TV for the room its in. ARC (not supported) is different to using the TV's audio out or headphone jack to supply audio (is supported)

Create a specific sales flyer for them to take with explaining how's and why's. First walk they don't care about stuff, just the house. Later they can review and then it's an extra sauce for your house.

What a great read 👍

It limits the people who wish to buy - Check the age range Younger couples can do HA on a small budget - Older couplers think its a just a gimmick. Its a issue if you are unable to up sell the product - Your "Realtor" is doing that job Why ? Are they a Tech Geek - No Are they a HA installers - No Are they a Sale Person working for Dealership - Maybe Are they trying to get 2% of sale of your house on floor space for the area - oh Ya Its like selling a Car with all the extra`s on - Great when you buy - Worth bugger all when you sell

Same as Mstafford above, if you can setup a single button for the agent to press when they arrive and press it again when they leave it makes things a lot easier without a learning curve for them.

I've set up "demo" mode for realtors in several homes. Turns all the lights on, plays pleasant music throughout, shows off any cool features (fire by the pool, mirror tv, theater, pulls cameras up on a tv, etc). This has usually been more about making the home look good to show, as well as making it so the realtor can just hit a button and not actually have to understand the system. It certainly does spark peoples interest in the automation stuff when they see everything happen on a single button press though.

I would sure hope a dealer can program a 4 command IR driver...

You will not get smooth fading with the Entec box and driver, plus its pretty taxing on your controller running director for larger scenes.. My advice, swap over to the Engineering Solutions box and Domaudeo driver. You will not regret it.

Here’s a great deal on Tp Link plugs. About $11 each. Don’t forget to clip the coupon for over 30% off https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424492-REG/tp_link_hs100_wi_fi_smart_plug.html

you could do that - or you could use power sensing on the driver to automatically turn the tv to the right input. So for example, use the Wii Remote to turn on the Wii on and let power sensing on the driver turn the TV on and select input

The driver will discover the blinds automatically but remember to set Integration ID to all the blind you want to control, it's mandatory. This is done through the Action menu of the blinds driver. Also if you plan to control a group of blinds, use the prodived driver, NOT the one from the C4 database. My group driver build a true blind group and allow you to control it using a nice slider, truly simultaneously. It also feedback the average level of the blinds in group.

an app* for apple tv. the remote is NOT controlling a savant OSD, the remote is controlling a savant app on apple tv. It's not that impressive, really.