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On the mobile side it really doesn't take away resources to work on those areas. We have developers working on all 3 of the areas mentioned by @wnpublic. Media wall does have an important place in the platform and has been highly requested feature allowing dealers more lines of revenue than they previously had before. This didn't come at a sacrifice to intercom or performance issues that are also being worked on. Those previously mentioned pain points each have their own unique challenges and problems to work through but are of high priority to the dev team to resolve. I hope that calms any fears about the focus of work.

That being said, there is definitely value in upgrading your hardware to be able to run control4 OS3 and above in my opinion. With each new version comes enhancements, bug fixes, and a better user experience.

agreed I mean I am ok with the dealer model - I knew it coming in and made my decision and do not regret it. But after being involved with c4 for the last 8 years, I can clearly say there are moron integrators too 🙂 Not Muj directly but just in general there are enough horror stories to know there are bad end users and bad integrators. That is getting a bit off topic but...

And those service contracts you keep talking about is certainly coming from your installer because that is not a requirement from Ruckus.

but how is that a fair comparison? You stated that putting Unifi APs in every room is better then one Ruckus AP. Well no kidding. Using one AP to cover an entire house is like using a smart car to deliver amazon packages - ain't gonna work...

It’s a great system but the quality of your installer will make or break your experience. We had someone that assured me they had experience with programming, lighting, etc. That turned out to not be the case. Once we finished with that debacle, we found @mujtaba.khokhar on here and he has been doing remote programming for us. He has been awesome. Suddenly, everything started working as it should and things were not activating on their own. He ended up having to do a lot of programming corrections but we’ve been up and running pretty well ever since. Whatever you do, make sure you have a good quality installer. The levels that C4 advertises on their website is about volume not quality. If your installer isn’t up to par, Muj or any number of the awesome and helpful folks on these boards can help, are usually cheaper and more qualified and faster. One of the great advantages of C4, you can change your programmer/dealer very easily. Our old Crestron system was locked down to the original installer so we were stuck with him (he was actually really good, just very expensive). You can do most anything with C4 and a knowledgeable programmer but the interfaces on the touch screens/app are locked in. We did customization in our Crestron system, paid a lot for it and frankly, like the C4 app better. It’s intuitive, easy to use and because it’s a bit more standardized, ends up being cheaper. With most other systems, the dealers make their money on the programming so even with Crestron’s new system, they’re always looking for those higher margins and the cost really adds up. I found C4 to be more reasonably priced (not cheap, just less expensive for the same basic functionality). Crestron sells the ability to do anything with their system. While there may be some really rare things that you might be able to do vs C4 but I would be surprised to see how many people ever use those things vs just getting the more expensive system in case they ever want to do them. I haven’t found much that C4 can’t do. Hope that helps a bit. Make sure you have a good installer (did I say that already?)

Hi, I have a beta version of a C4 driver to obtain cloud cover for any location on the map. If you want to trigger an event on a cloudy day and don't have a light sensor, this could be a solution. Since this is a first release I don't recommend adding this driver to your customer controllers at this time. I still have a few minor issues to work out and also need to write documentation. The driver uses https://www.tomorrow.io/ API to retrieve the current cloud cover for the latitude and longitude obtained from the project, however values can be manually changed. You must register with https://app.tomorrow.io/signup to get an API Key which you will need add to the driver. The Free plan is good for 500 API calls per day / 25 calls per hour / 3 calls per second. If you are paranoid and need to make more API calls, a paid plan is available. I have no affiliation with tomorrow.io, just found their service to be the most reliable. The driver was only tested on 3.2.2 and is not guaranteed not work on anything older. Please don't share your API Key (The key shown below is for illustration only, don't try to use it in your system as it's invalid.) HTTP GET is a required command before you set up any conditions. If configured correctly HTTP GET will update the CloudCover field in the driver when driver is called. When you set up a condition for the driver, Cloud cover value will not display in the Actions, PARAM2 will show instead. (I am still working on this problem) At this time you can only see the selected value if you enable the debug on the driver. Feel free to post your results here or email us directly if you have any problems with the driver. GetCloud.c4z

Dear C4, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE put in filters or sort for Macros. Thank you. User with a boatload of macros who can never find the one he wants.

Personally I would start with one make sure you like it before investing too heavily even though it's a lower cost point you still don't want to be in a place where you're unhappy with the experience

Robot vacuum. I have a keypad button on my wall which toggles between vacuum and return to charge with LED feedback on the state. Same with experience button.

Update to 321.40, Intercom in OS 3 for iOS was just released today.

Used Some Shelly’s I3 + Chowmain Shelly Driver to automate backyard lighting and lighting scenes from momentary switches. This is exactly what I was looking for; completing the full control of 18 loads/Scenes using only 3 switches and nothing else!

That's what you drew from this? SMH. Yet end users are morons....

The Domosapiens Generic Somfy driver has a feature which could help, but only if you use a programming command. The driver has a Device Specific Command 'Inform Blind'. This was originally intended to inform individual blind drivers when myLink scenes were used, but it may be useful in other circumstances such as this. Let's say the last operation done with the driver was to close (down) the shade. Then, the user opens the shade using a Somfy remote. The driver (and the Control4 proxy) think the shade is still closed and will not allow you to close it via Navigator. The workaround is to use the following in programming for a 'Down' button: Inform Blind ... of Up/Open Movement Set the blind target level on ... to Closed Similarly, for an 'Up' button: Inform Blind ... of Down/Closed Movement Set the blind target level on ... to Open Paul Biron Domosapiens

The armored is a few feat long and has the 2 conductor typical wire sticking out about a foot longer than the armor. Splice and dress as you wish. Like this one has a picture of wire, different sensor, usually installed as 1 at top of door. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-958-Overhead-Contacts/dp/B0006M1I1W/ref=pd_sbs_1/138-1764450-5871611?pd_rd_w=2ecPU&pf_rd_p=0a3ad226-8a77-4898-9a99-63ffeb1aef90&pf_rd_r=VKSV0E7DP9MBTJC91FVV&pd_rd_r=52a1d9af-a57a-4ff4-851e-1a4b376d8042&pd_rd_wg=JYXIz&pd_rd_i=B0006M1I1W&th=1

If what you say is accurate, why have you put up with this for 7 years? And why are you still putting up with it? It is probably time to get a new dealer involved and to even get a lawyer involved to force your current dealer to cover the cost of having a new dealer fix your system. Honestly, you the homeowner are the problem here. I was taught at a young age to expect what I tolerate. Stop tolerating such poor performance.

Give me your address and I’ll send someone over to remove it. I only read the first and last paragraphs, but if the system isn’t working it’s on your integrator. The hardware and software are great when setup properly.

I use a number of bNet Solutions drivers (not this one) and they are all working fine, so I would expect that this one is too. Are you saying that the experience button icon is not populating on your T4? A number of experience button drivers have had that problem (on T4s) but are easy to fix. My understanding is that it has something to do with the format of the image (16 bit images not being accepted on T4s and thus the image needing to be changed to 8 bits) but I may well be wrong as I am not a driver developer! Irrespective of what the issue, I would suggest you contact BNet Solutions via the contact details on their website. I have always found Brian to be very responsive and helpful.

I just spoke to DSC Connect24 support regarding integrating my DSC Neo into both Control4 and Connect24. Note the I have the TL280LE Communicator. When your central monitoring station is programming your communicator using Connect24, under the INTERACTIVE tab, they need to: - set Integration over Ethernet - Enter the C4 controller IP address - set Notification port to 3072 - set Polling port to 3073 - set Real Time Notifications to ON The above settings must be set by your Central Monitoring Station using Connect24. All the other parameters and keys necessary to complete the integration can be read at the keypad for integrating your C4 system into your DSC Neo panel.

The EA1 is definitely not obsolete--I have 2 of them running in my project and they were released in 2016 at the same time as the EA3. That being said, the EA1 is not necessarily the best controller to do multi-room audio with as it only has HDMI out and can only stream from one source at a time. It sounds like your tech/dealer is not communicating well with you or, possibly, misleading you and not doing a good job of programming. I would get in touch with one of the excellent remote programmers on here and have them take a look at your system: @chopedogg88 and @AK1 are just two of the many great ones on here.

After doing months of research, testing, and implementing my own DIY smart lighting system using Philips Hue and Apple's HomeKit, I decided to embark on my Control4 lighting journey this past September. This post is to summarize what I was aiming for, what I did, and the outcomes for the benefit of anyone that might want to do something similar. I'd also like to emphasize the limitations and issues with the current Control4 Free Philips Hue driver, those limitations being a significant impediment to reaching my goals with the system. I'm new to the forum and Control4 and have read through much of the content available on implementing Philips Hue lighting in C4. Many of the issues I see people dealing with are related to the issues I've found with the C4 Hue driver, and could be fixed with a better implementation of the Hue API in C4. Although I'm not a C4 dealer, I am a fairly technical user with software and hardware design experience. My C4 system covers a home theatre, lighting, and security (Overhead garage door control, locks and doorbell camera). This post will be focused on specifically the Philips Hue lighting integration with C4, so on to that. Requirements Overall I wanted a lighting system with: Automatic time of day brightness and warmth (color temperature) control, so that the lights are less bright in the morning and at night, and also warmer when less bright full color lighting in some rooms, e.g. bathrooms and bedrooms have dim red light by default when activated late at night so as not to disturb sleep, and some rooms have full color scenes for relaxing ambiance and dance party purposes Control via any app (C4, Hue, HomeKit, etc) and physical switches to replace my existing switches (i.e. no hue dimmer switches fixed to the wall next to my dumb switches with tape or some barrier preventing the power being cut to the bulbs) A great user experience consistent with normal light switches, as no one is interested in having to read a manual prior to using the lights in my home A way to turn off the power to the bulbs when necessary, from the physical light switch Consistent aesthetics for the switches around the house, especially with multi-gang switch banks Occupancy on, occupancy off, and vacancy mode in most rooms, with intuitive automatic switching between the different modes Compatible with my existing home as a retrofit As cost effective as possible while nailing the above key features I started building this system with HomeKit and Philips Hue and ended up with 1 Hue bridge, over 40 hue bulbs, 3 Hue motion sensors, and 5 Hue dimmer switches. The system worked reasonably well but I quickly ran into the limitations of HomeKit which prevented reaching my ultimate goal. Those limitations that C4 (at least on paper) addressed were: No way to backup the code, so if anything went wrong with the AppleTV HomeKit Hub I'd have to start from scratch again No physical switches available that satisfied my requirements for aesthetics and function Limited capability for implementing advanced programming and variables Limited product integration support (although this is completely addressed by setting up a HomeBridge server for HomeKit) Random glitches that are intolerable for mission critical applications like door locks and primary lighting Me being solely responsible and able to fix the system when broken Implementation After looking at options for physical switches I decided on using Control4 essential switches which have the following advantages over other options out there: Can be set as keypads to control the Hue lights while maintaining power to the bulbs, so that I can control the bulbs via control4 and other means (e.g. Hue app, HomeKit) Can be set up with consistent functionality for single, double, and triple tap on the bottom and top switches, along with other non-hue lighting circuits Can also control the load to the hue bulbs so I can turn off the power to them completely if I want or need to Can be tied into the control4 system seamlessly to control or be controlled by other control4 devices Are aesthetically pleasing especially compared to putting hue dimmer switches beside the load switches or covering the load switches in some way Are a good price for the functionality they give, about half the cost of the regular C4 switches. Mainly the difference (for the switches, not dimmers) is the essential switches don't have advanced control of the LED lights on the switch itself like the regular switches do For the circadian schedule I used a driver from Janus Technologies (Control4 Circadian Lighting (drivercentral.io)). I also installed ceiling motion sensors from Nyce which worked alongside my existing 3 Hue motion sensors. I recently learned about a Hue motion sensor driver from UnilogiQ (@Bogdy, Control4 drivers | UnilogIQ) and will update when I get that installed and configured. Outcomes and Issues: Since there's no way to save a draft here I'm going to post this and come back to complete later.

I've been lurking here for many years trying to get ideas. Whenever I think about "what can I automate", it comes down to one answer. What do I do repeatedly? Sure there are good ideas, I go set them up...then find I never use them because it's once in a blue moon. What really makes the system worth the effort are the repeatable little things and actions that your wife notices..... Lighting scenes like "backyard-night" that lights up the pool house and backyard. But also the little things, like when you unlock the back door, it turns on lights at night, or off when locking. Also have buttons for "doggie poo-poo" that turn on lights for the dog to see where she goes at night. Buttons for turning of the basement as you walk back upstairs. Again all based on things we do all the time - repeatidly. My wife's a nurse and gets up very early...button for WORK, turn on a dim light in the hallway and kitchen and makes sure there's lights in the driveway, etc.... then turns them all off. Find your patterns is the lesson I've learned.

Yeah man leave the Ruckus in

that's awesome...I thought you were going to say you take a snapshot and then another one after the cleaners are done and do an automated comparison and scoring on how well they cleaned the place based on said snapshots. I don't spend the time to automate anywhere near that amount of stuff for myself, let alone my cleaners! (shoemaker's children go barefoot...or whatever they say)

I have the triad garden array with 8 speakers and an inground sub around my 20x40 pool and 2800sqft patio. Absolutely love it. Get tons of compliments. Speakers are powered by a Crown amp.

Seems to me that a dealer would be the right path in this case, as if it's defective, they could do an RMA or other repair process. RyanE

A good dealer is key.

To clarify, only dealers can get legitimate copies of Composer Pro.

it was a fair response with both pros and cons so no need to cue "why do you post here" - the OP is looking for critical feedback which you gave I've had the system for 7+ years now. Like anything else it has its strengths and weaknesses. I never really looked at the competition too - if I were to do it again I'd really interview the dealer/integrator and probably compare it to Savant. If you aren't chasing the latest hardware and the latest firmware/OS update every day and you want a rock solid system to cover lighting, AV, HVAC, Security and everything else and you seek automation vs control, C4 is a great option. If you like to tinker and want to buy every piece of hardware you see at a big box store and integrate it that day for control, C4 may not be for you.

Control4 is awesome. I like that it integrates literally everything in my phone and is dead simple to use. A/V, shades, lights, security, pool, intercom, etc… all on one interface. One beef you’ll hear from people is that it’s not DIY. Adding or removing devices requires a paid professional. That said, this is something that’s done pretty rarely in most situations. I wish the phone app loaded faster.

Not exactly correct, Control4 uses the standard Zigbee Pro join pre-shared key, but Control4 does require an additional Zigbee Cluster, which 3rd party devices do not support, and also requires a driver for the device be found during the join process, or the device is kicked off of Control4's mesh. Due to these 2 incompatibilities, Control4's Zigbee mesh does not let 'external' 3rd-party devices join. RyanE

MikroTik hAP AC v2 for ~$90. Set it up and forget about it. Can download phone app if needed. Plenty of YouTube videos to show you how to configure anything you’d want. For WiFi, go Ruckus Unleashed and then again, set it up and forget about it. Not sure why everyone is talking about all these updates for this and that. I, if at all, update my network maybe once a year. Really for any required security patches. UBNT is a child’s toy. Basically, created to make anyone “feel” like they’re a network engineer. Edge switches are about the only thing solid that they make and what I usually use.

Just to give folks balance to what looks like a horror story of issues, I have not had anything like the experience above with my UDM-P in my home network aside from the initial restore from backup which was a convenience issue more than a stability issue. I'm not sure what defines small network or not but my home system has a UDMP, 11 Switches, a mix of 10G/2.5G/1G/100/10 devices, Unifi VOIP, WAN failover, VLAN/firewall configuration for video and IoT with past Unifi APs and now Ruckus. Sure there have been a few minor quirks but glad to say its been solid so far. The UDMP is actually one my favorite pieces of gear from them... a crazy value for what it offers.

Mine is working and I just upgraded yesterday.

TP-Link work just fine. Just be aware that while on/off/dim will be instantaneous, feedback on state will lag behind. That's because the driver will be polling for state only every 10 seconds +. In other words, the touchscreen will show the light as off for a few seconds, even after you turn it on. Not really an issue for your use case. The driver for TP/Kasa is from Chowmain and is easy to set up and robust, assuming that you have solid wi-fi. The switches use a 2.4 network, not 5 GHz.

it also seems like your friend is your dealer so its a different story. If I was a dealer it would be hard to support each client's tablet. Apple, Samsung, Amazon, Lenovo and whatever other branded Android tablet you can find. When a client calls and says my touchscreen isn't working they have to know what OS and with Android it can be different flavors, etc, its not easy to always troubleshoot and fix and their time is money. So yeah that is likely why they tend to quote a T4, they know how to troubleshoot, they have access to RMA the device, they have access to tech support and its dedicated so its not another app you installed that crashed the device. If you are more DIY oriented, if a friend is setting up your system, if you aren't using security cameras if you arent using Intercom access etc and you want to save a few dollars and dont mind the extra loading time of waking up the tablet, loading the app, etc.....Well you have your answer. But that setup isn't the norm (a DIY with a friend doing the install, etc) the beauty of C4 is there usually isnt a 100% right or wrong method...

This is just FUD. A current generation 10.2" iPad with a nice wall mount and POE converter would be less than half the list price of a 10" T3, let alone a T4. And the T3s, especially the smaller ones, don't look particularly great on wall in any event.

As above, they're fantastic connectors, but their size make them unwieldy for patch panels. Usually reserved for more heavy duty setups, not for a standard 'distributed music' amp setup.

I just can't understand why we can't have the Ultra (which already had everything the 'new' stick+ has, and is on sale for the same price as the stick+ at the moment) directly available in Canada....or why they still have an 10/100 instead of 1000 ethernet jack on the latest Ultra for that matter. Screw WiFi....

That's crazy. It's like they're making their stuff *less* universal. I'd bet dollars for donuts that if you cut it at the 'cut' line, you could scrape off the coating and find the exact same 4 pads that you could use elsewhere, but it wouldn't have "their" connector on it. RyanE

Like most of the topics on this forum. This topic is back in the spotlight with the myQ upgrade to the v6 of their API. This broke a lot of the open source integrations as they deprecated their v5.

Yep - amp is shot. PM me if you need help obtaining a new one.

I've been emailing support@intrinsicdev.com which is the email address which I've communicated with on several other occasions where I received a prompt response...

It's fine. The lighting hardware and control is top notch, intuitive, and stable. If you are the sort of person that wants distributed/matrixed video and audio, so that a video or audio feed can move from room to room with you, C4 is good for that. Although I'd think the real need for a heavyweight solution for this is diminished with the rise of OTT streaming - an Apple TV knows where knows where you are in any stream, and can live in a server closet or on the back of a TV. C4 integrates well with the right alarm systems, too. After that - meh. Camera integration is not great, intercom/doorbell is not great and they are both beaten by things you can buy at the big box store. For control from your mobile, or a touchscreen, C4 is not a one-app solution, it's at best a two-app solution (C4 and your security camera/NVR app) and for iOS users, it's a 3 app solution because Intercom functionality is in a separate app. It is also curiously slow to load. Yes these latter two are being worked on but that has been the case for more than a year. The dealer model is what it is. If you don't want to tinker, it's fine. If you do like to tinker, set up new automations, integrate new stuff, it may not be fine. As others have noted, new drivers, bindings have to be set up by a dealer. You do get some control with Composer HE, but it's an ancient looking (think Windows 2000) UI that is laborious to use and not very intuitive. Things you might expect to be able to do, you can't do. No concept of geofencing in C4, for example. As it is a closed system, there are limits on the number of internet-connected things it integrates with, which may frustrate you if you hope to include the growing universe of IoT items into your home automation system. Very few supported Zwave items, no non-proprietary zigbee, etc. Still can't, for example, get readings from a PurpleAir AQI sensor into the system and automate off that. There is a community of driver developers working on integrations, so some of your purchasing decisions will need to take into account what's supported. Cue the "why do you even post here" replies in 3, 2, 1.....

16/2 should work for just about any home. Could even get away with 18/2, as it's only 12v power. Wired shades come with a 15' power lead, which can be cut and re-attached, if you're handy.

Yes, mine has been rock solid.

16AMP3 is not currently sold, its been discontinued.

Update in progress. Then setting up my video wall!

aka hacks...there are no such thing as authorized open source use of MyQ

Same here, very annoying!