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It is so funny watching people who are in the know but can't talk about it interact with people who have no idea what's going on but will talk about it like they do. (FYI just a general fun statement not calling anyone out).

Why do people get wound up on unsubstantiated rumors? Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

Just figured I would give an update. I switched to the Ecobee4. Two of them, one for each zone. With Ecobee remote sensors throughout the floors of the house. It has proved far superior to the C4 thermostat in terms of regulating temperature. (Unexpected added benefit - my daughter finds it hilarious when Alexa sings and talks from the wall!)

IFTTT is disabling all the GMail actions and triggers other than “Send an email” and “Send yourself an email,” due to API changes on Google’s side to address privacy concerns. If you’re currently using any inbound (send an email and C4 does something) or other similar stuff, with Alan’s IFTTT driver, it’s going to stop working soon. More details: https://www.androidpolice.com/2019/03/22/most-ifttt-applets-using-gmail-will-break-this-month/

when you have that size house and someone walks in the door to do any work, the price goes up substantially. I have seen this first hand, not me, but through some peers in the area. If you have a 12,000 sq ft house a contractor knows you have money and things cost more that should not cost more - but it is how the world operates in these markets. If you are some financial tycoon and all you know about technology is your cell phone and tablet and someone says you need to update this box every 3-6 months most people with means just say yes, they do not come to a user forum like c4forums or avsforums and ask questions. Heck most of them have property managers and accountants who just write the checks and they are 2-3 steps removed.

I would lean towards the EA-3 instead of EA-1 if the OP is doing multi-room audio simply because the EA-1 only has HDMI output while the EA-3 has analog stereo and digial coax. EA-5 would appear overkill. The OP as a network engineer is an ideal candidate for a remote install = I don't see just the programming getting to $3,000 based on his original post.

Very diplomatic answer that which leaves a door open for pretty much any possibility 😉 I can't predict the future, so I'd never rule out getting rid of HE *at some point*, but it's not on an immediate roadmap. Kill the rumor. RyanE

I have heard of no plans to discontinue ComposerHE in the near (or far) future. I believe it's just a rumor. The only rumors that you can slightly believe are those that originate from someone finding company governmental filings (patents, FCC, etc.). RyanE

Certainly been a lot of rumors that proved true but also a lot that did not... Some that were posted on this forum before they happened included: When / then Apple Bridge CA1 Android based OS etc. That said, positive rumors can be fun to speculate about! We need some cool new launches so that we don’t need to speculate... Roll on CEDIA

I’d use c4. The single/double/triple taps, engraving, improved zigbee coverage, LED buttons colors are programmable etc you pay a small premium but that gets you features missing from your alternatives

I have a blackberry. Is that wild too?

I use in ceiling speakers for video sound in all my 'non primary video watching' rooms. Kitchen, kids bedrooms, laundry room, bathroom, garage, etc. The kitchen is the only room that we'll watch TV for an extended time while cooking or eating. I like having the sound coming from above, as you can move around the room and the sound volume/quality stays pretty consistent. I have 5.1 surround sound amplifiers wired to in wall speakers in areas that we watch TV for longer durations - master bedroom, family room, office. The theater has full 9.2 surround.

A Z2IO will detect temperature and humidity without that remote sensor. You can program actions on those readings and the temp and humidity can be set up to display in the navigators. That wired remote temp sensor wire can be used on this device, card access contact/relay sensors, or C4 thermostats as an alternative method to detect temp in a different location but you cannot have both the the internal thermostat and wired remote sensor readings. It's one or the other

Lots of choices though for site to site. I'm not sure I could make a statement like a vpn would be way to slow. Plenty of vpn's are making the world work site to site. Almost every major networking equipment brand has a solution. I think it's an interesting idea to connect the two houses. If good internet could be had at both locations or you could get line of sight lots of cool things could happen. I hope that the OP gets it working.

Thanks all, Mitch was awesome, and all issues resolved and updated Control4!

I would wholeheartedly recommend @msgreenf to help you for offline/remote help here. He helped tweak a few updates/drivers/devices for me. As I understand it with HE you cannot install new devices sadly

Looks like your dealer just lost your business. There are plenty of great remote dealers, including @msgreenf, that will easily work with you for those changes for a fair price.

Just wanted to circle back to this and close out the thread. I created some custom buttons and put an iPad in kiosk mode running the C4 app. "Start Showing" turns on all the lights, starts a playlist, puts a TV on the nav screen and one on now playing, sets the volumes in each zone, and sends me an email that it started. It also arms a motion sensor. They can also choose to "Stop Music" and "Showing complete." "Showing Complete" turns off everything with a delay turning off the entrance lights, disarms the motion sensor and sends me an email. If they don't use the "Showing complete" the motion sensor will do it for them after a lengthy delay of no-motion. Thanks for all the inputs.

Geez I keep answering direct questions from people and you're taking it as me making some crazy Triad sales pitch. All I'm saying is they make good stuff, haven't said other people don't make good stuff that will also work just fine. Everyone has specific needs and budgets and need to make whatever decision makes the most sense for them. I was just answering specific questions about the quality of the Triad audio gear and they make high quality stuff for house audio. That's a fact, regardless of what you think about where my information comes from and it's credibility. Just do some research, the gear is very well reviewed.

What is the best way to get SmartTV audio back to an AVR? Will using the HDMI ARC work or do I have to use the optical out back to the receiver? The ARC would be a require less hardware but will it work in C4?

found one

9 out of 10 stats are made up. Show me facts Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

for what its worth I can speak first hand - @Cinegration support is top notch. on this specific driver I was having an issue using my own sensors. They got into my system and did troubleshooting and updated their driver to allow for a new feature to invert sensor state within the driver and now it works fine.

Use the HDMI feed from the EA to the AVR so all are native C4 streams. You can apply a negative delay to the HDMI output stream to bring it in sync with the other streams, you will need to adjust by ear depending on the amount of delay the HDMI audio processing your AVR applies with its own processing.

Never mind I found it, thanks

+1 for PlanetWaves

I would start by making a scene in the macro agent. On the left side, choose agent and pick macro. Name the macro whatever you want. Once you’re done, click over to programming on the left and choose the macro you just named. On the right hand side, start adding in all of the actions you want to happen when that macro is activated. Then you will choose the keypad in the left column under programming and assign a button to run that macro when it is pressed.

should be possible to create a vpn between networks and make it into one large project. Also believe there is a MDU agent to allow several system to connect to the same intercom but i do not know if this would work in this case.

for what its worth Cinegration updated their driver for me - now the new feature is if you are using your own contact sensors you can pick normal or inverted state in their driver vs on the sensor itself. once i picked inverted via the new option in the Driver, it works great support for sure - fixing/adding to their driver during a support call to fix a problem. Thanks @Cinegration

If smoke detectors are going off program it to turn off HVAC or even possibly unlock exterior doors.

internet speed really means nothing. Need to do some more vigorous multi server testing and straining on the system to get a good idea for what you are looking for. I have 300 / 30 I was able to stream cameras to remote devices , 4 Netflix 1080p streams and 4 music services pandora deeezer amazon and tune in. everything played well with no skipping. below seems to be one of the most through speed tests i have found http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest

This isn't EXACTLY what your asking for - but here's my setup and why I use it Equipment: I use a TCL 27" with Roku built in. ZigBee to IR Velcro'd to the back Haystack App Programming: schedule set to fire "on" the TCL at 6:45am Bathroom lights on at 7:00am So here's what happens for me in my master bathroom. The TCL TV comes on and then in (7:00am) 15 minutes of no activity on the TV, the "Haystack" app takes over on it's own. That's a custom newsfeed app with clips and local news including weather.

nope. the skill supports video devices natively.

I live in the mountains and have horrible Internet speeds (~8 mbps). It sounds like I have a similar setup to you: 2 people, all streaming devices hardwired, don't often have two separate streams going and have many IP connected devices in the house that are always up. We really never have an issue (1080p streams)--even when we do have two streams going--so I'm sure you'll be more than fine with 100. We routinely stream music with Deezer through C4 too and that works great as well. And consider me VERY envious of your position of even having to worry about upgrading to 300

Don't think you need the additional upload capacity and the 100 down is plenty for multiple streams etc. Not sure what you have for a router etc, but the Ubiquiti stuff can give you some good metrics on usage and can test the speed provided on intervals so you can really see what you use and what you have. I wouldn't over think it. Get the 100 package and if you find you are really bumping up against it they will allow you to upgrade.

I have a variable called party mode - Party mode resets the timers on all motion detections to longer so that lights don't keep going off. It leaves the outside lights on longer announces to the person arriving to the front door "welcome to the party". It disarms all door opening announcements. Multi-functional. Bill

Dont know if the option is available in HE but under system design highlight roku, mine is set to send "home" command on power off. This stops my hulu stream or what ever is streaming. If you dont have this option with HE a simple command when room off is received push home on roku.

For a quick video demo of it. Sorry for the poor quality! You can: * Search songs, playlists, albums and artists and play any of them * View all your playlists and play the entire playlist * View individual tracks within your playlist and play them individually

Make sure the driver for the vera is connected. If you're sure the ip address is correct, manually change the last number of the ip address to something incorrect and set it. Then correct it and set it again.

I would love to see C4 work with Comcast and get the voice to search feature on the app and remote

Excellent. Best of luck.

Did you message your dealer? Your dealer provides you customer service. Bugs get entered when your dealer contacts tech support with issues. Your dealer is the only one in the position to provide the technical detail necessary.

We mounted our outdoor sensor on an outside wall underneath an eave that shields it from direct sunlight. It works pretty well, although we do not have the wind sensor or the rain gauge.

Yeah i am using ring as well. The motion sensing and doorbell events are quite handy. Doorbell events trigger a doorbell announcement wav file which triggers in all zones in my home. Motion triggers the front porch light. Pretty much as soon as i get a notification on my phone of doorbell ring or motion sense the programming fires in Control4.

I have a room in my house where the TV audio is fed back to my C4 audio matrix. My video is all local, but I think I've accomplished what you're going for here before. Start the video you want on your TV (Apple TV as the source in this case). Then use your other phone to start an audio scene in another room with Apple music via Shairbridge/Airplay (I use my kitchen because it's part of the same big open space). Once you've done that, you'll have two active AV scenes in C4. In the app, just add your TV room to your audio room/scene in the C4 app. That should leave the video selection unchanged, but now your Apple Music will be playing through the speakers from the other room's scene. I've done this before when we are hosting people and want music playing but may also want a sports game on the TV and still want the music to be the audio in that room. Figured this may help if the method @sonic30101 supplied didn't work or may give you another option to try and see which is easier.

There is actually a technical issue with supporting the Apple Bridge on the HC800. It was debated internally, and the original idea was to provide it on both, but due to the technical issue it was cut from the HC800. It was *not* a sales / marketing decision. The HC800 was originally released over 7 years ago (January 2012), and is not being deprecated in the near future, although there are some features that will be released on the EA series and not on the HC series. Unfortunately, one of the first of those is the Apple Bridge support. Sorry. RyanE

There is a driver just for this purpose in the Control4 online database. I created it for my house, because it's annoying to smash your lock into the door jamb. It's called "Door Auto-Lock (OS2.9+). As you can see in the name, you have to be on at least Control4 OS 2.9 for the driver to work. You add one for each door (that also has a separate contact), and connect the lock relay connection and the door sensor connection. You then turn *off* the auto lock on the lock itself. The only downside to this is if the Control4 system is down, your doors don't automatically lock. It's an Experience Button driver, so it can show up on the UI, shows door status (Locked/Closed, Unlocked/Closed, Locked/Open, Unknown). The driver will lock on expiration of delay seconds, *after* the door is closed. If the door is opened and then closed, the timer starts again, so in my case (delay set to 300 seconds), if I answer the door, shut the door, and 4 minutes later, I answer the door again, the lock will engage 5 minutes after I close the door again. The driver has: 3 Experience Button icon sets (one red/green, one green/red, and one black). The red/green vs. green/red is because for some people, locked should be red, and other people think the locked state should be green. the ability to configure whether the Experience button UI allows unlock or not If not, it can be used to lock the lock when the door is closed, but not unlock the lock. a configurable auto lock delay, with a much longer delay than some of the manufacturers' locks. button bindings so you can connect the driver to keypads, and show door state with LEDs, as well as control the lock with the keypad button. events for Closed/Locked, Closed/Unlocked, Open/Locked, and Open/Unlocked. commands to Lock (if door is closed) / Unlock, and Enable/Disable, so you can program turning on / off the 'auto lock' feature. I use this when I have houseguests during a party, etc., so the door doesn't automatically lock. It works with any of the controllable door locks and requires a 'door open' contact installed (any kind). And it's all for the low, low price of free (plus dealer installation). RyanE

I updated last night to 2.10.6 and noticed the driver update for my old Apple TV's said (Gen 1-3). I did a quick driver search and saw the new Gen 4 & 4K driver, which I installed. The driver automatically dropped in the Apple Bridge driver, and I started to read the documentation. I have 2x 4K apple TVs (32GB and 64GB) and it was a little confusing to setup, but I followed the documented instructions step by step. Something to keep in mind is that the very first steps listed are if you do NOT have the Apple TVs already setup. If you do, you just need to make sure AirPlay is turned on and each Apple TV has it's own name (i.e. Parent's, Kids, Living Room, etc.) Once I set up Apple Bridge Control on the Control4 iOS App, it added the Apple Bridge to the HomeKit stuff, and then each "remote" was the Apple TV. Basically, it's a "next, next, next, done" procedure. Afterwards, I selected which apple TV the driver was to control via the dropdown list within the driver, and it instantly started working. No need to fiddle with network settings, etc. although my Apple TVs are already on a static IP. The added customization to the remote (SR-260) was really nice, as now I have access to the "press and hold" features of the original remote, and I can customize them to just about any button. I chose the RBYG buttons since they currently don't do anything. Hopefully this helps some of you.

Went with the tp-link hs105s and they work great with some much needed help from msgreenf! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As said before, try InFuse Pro on the Apple TV. I works great. And is very easy to sort. I used Dune for years. This is the best. All my DVD’s and BluRays are ISO. Then I have tons of home movies.