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I understand that Control4 recently released a new version of the IntelliCenter driver (version 18) into the online database. There are some massive improvements in the driver. I have been fortunate enough to have interim versions 13 through 15 running on my systems for the last few weeks and I can only assume that (if anything) version 18 is even better). My dealer installed version 18 today but I have not tested it yet. Lots of bug fixes and some great new features, including: 1. Pentair Vacation Mode can be controlled from the driver (my number one wish list requirement on this driver) 2. Circuits which failed to show up as auxiliary circuits previously (particularly on large systems) now show up properly as Extras. 3. Colour lights can be controlled from the UI or programming - a really big plus this. 4. Colour shows (including colour swimming!) can be controlled from the UI and programming. 5. Extras can now be re-ordered for display purposes. I am biased (as I have always used Pentair) but I am pretty sure this is now the best Pool driver / integration out there… and it is free! Well done Control4. Disclaimer: I am assuming that no new bugs have appeared between version 15 and version 18…

Indeed. But apparently you can use it to give a shout out to your favorite bugs/missing features, which is nice. Better handling of security cameras please. Telling customers on Day1 of their Control4 experience that they are better off viewing cameras in a separate app feels a bit of a punch in the face. Intercom still flaky after all these years. +1 on color wheel If only these were 'legacy technical debt'. 🤣

I had the site recalculate the rankings with the new feature. Should be good to go now

More control vs automate but I started to use Alexa to do voice control to show my security cameras for PiP display on a TV. Using Video Storm Netplay TV + IFTTT Driver I can say "Alexa Trigger {Camera Name}" and on the TV I'll get a PiP pop up for 20 seconds showing the camera I called to Alexa. When someone rings my doorbell that happens automatically, but sometimes we think we hear someone outside, maybe a package being dropped off, etc. This way we can pull up the cameras whenever we want vs going into the C4 or Blue Iris app (assuming we are near a TV that is on).

Not to mention bringing back a C4 Apple Watch app (which is still advertised in places despite not working since OS3 came out) and fixing the responsiveness issues on iOS, especially as it pertains to how long it takes Sessions to respond.

You guys all missed the obvious answer 😄 "If you go there will be trouble.... If you stay it will be double..." I know, no help. But it had to be said.

Thanks @RyanE- this sorted the issue.

Is that a qualifier in determining if someone can ask for help in here? I'm not being facetious I am genuinely asking because I see these threads pop up quite a bit where people start questioning whether a user has legitimate access. If it is, then I think that something needs added to the site FAQ or something that says users who do not have legitimate access to Composer Pro are not allowed to ask questions about it. OR (and this is what I would suggest) it is assumed that everyone who asks a Composer Pro related question (not access mind you, technical questions) has legitimate access. If someone feels the user may be lying and/or can't be helped because they don't understand basic concepts then they should refrain from helping.

This guy sent me a message and I didn't respond within 28 minutes and then he sends me another message with double question marks (on a Saturday no less). I recommend if you are a remote programmer that you don't work with him unless you plan to provide 24x7 instantaneous response...

Mini-driver is generally what we call a driver for a 'service' that isn't a physical device, which allows us to both select the physical device the service is on, as well as launch the service. Example, the end-user sees 'Netflix' and selects it. The system then selects an unused Roku available in the location, and launches the app(or channel if you will) on the Roku. There are universal drivers for this which work on numerous devices (Roku, most Smart TV main brands) or in some specific cases there are 'build for a device' drivers (such as for the IRUSB to control Android TV). And the answer is no, you cannot do this on AppleTV (the physical device) as their API doesn't allow that type of integration. Just for the record AppleTV (the streaming service) DOES have a mini driver, but that is to launch the app on OTHER hardware (like Roku)

Not really automating, but more programming. I had to replace the springs on my Garage Door. The old system last 18 years and 10's of thousands of use. Door guy said the new springs would only last about 7 years or so. He said it would pretty much fail after 10,000 operations. Opening and Closing would count as two. So I made a script that would count how many operations the door has performed. It emails me every time the door opens/closes and includes the open/close count. I am going to see how accurate the door guy's guess was.... 😁 It has dawned one me, I may need a hobby 😂

Hey, finally found it. For anyone else looking, look for Digital Media!

Why this Driver? Apple's Siri Shortcuts are designed to speed up actions you take in apps and let you add those actions to Siri. There's also a dedicated Shortcuts app, so you can create and manage multiple actions across multiple apps. The Shortcuts app has an Options to fire any URL and using this we can fire any commands to control4 system. This is a simplest and easy way to make Control4 triggers to available on iPhone screen as well through Siri. Lighting Fast Response. Where can we use this driver? You can create a Bunch of shortcut to replicate a Control4 Keypad on iPhone screen. It will act as an Virtual Keypad. Make a Shortcut for Light,Curtain or AC that you use Everyday so it will be available on your figure tip whenever you want. A shortcut to that tells you which Door/Window is open in your House. A shortcut for a Light so when you enter in room you just say "Hey Siri, Lights" and based on Light status it will Turn ON or OFF the light for you. More fun - Go to your iPhone's settings> Accessibility > Touch > Back Tap > Double Tap. Here Select your favorite shortcut and fire it with Double Tap on back of your iPhone. There are Endless Possibilities. https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/apple-shortcuts/

I was able to get this working in the opposite direction with Homebridge, but had to use an Apple TV Remote plugin. (I used one from @kurtwarwick) Just use Homekit automation with a Control4 virtual switch or relay to kick it off. I'm just trying to make it more attractive on the C4 Neeo and app now.

This is becoming a real popcorn thread…

Yeah its not like Control4 has ever used undocumented API's to talk to devices before......

I wouldn't have an issue getting more rokus from the beginning I guess I expected the installer to tell me that up front, instead of me going on a wild goose chase trying to figure out if something was wrong with my system.

Is it? A Sonos Port is almost that much and gives you nothing except an audio output.

As long as you have spare inputs on the Matrix.

And another Roku going into your matrix is really not that expensive. Top end Roku is $100.

new boxes will be integrated the same way. IR in port does not work. No IP integration that I know of. Client of mine just swapped his, no changes needed for driver or IR codes.

this is not good advice. First of all he said it was upgrade to OS 3 so you should assume that he is recent and SSH won't work. And you assume he knows where to look. I would start by renewing your 4sight at customer.control4.com which is instant For the music streaming I would change your DNS servers on your router to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 to replace the ISP DNS

I prefer nothing ir...

sounds to me this is a networking question. For example, your home is on a 10.x network, and the doorbird is on another home that might be a 192.x network. (or worse both 10x networks that are not the same). The most logical way to do this is create a DMZ that you both can share. For instance your home is 10.1, neighbor is 10.2, but shared resources are 10.3. Now you can create routes between the networks (probably another discussion) and only allow 10.3 to be shared/routable. There are other ways to tackle, but basically everything needs to be routable between you and the rainbird

Nor are you likely to unless you're building a brand new place AND consciously selecting lighting that does use it. SOME extremely high end chandeliers or fixtures use it in what you'd COULD call residential lighting (for very exclusive residences) but as said, it's more a commercial thing (also, hotels, exposition halls etc, commercial in this case certainly doesn't equal store or industrial). You may see it on patio heaters though. Just as a FYI - the reason to use 0-10v is that you don't have to deal with the actual load/wattage - bypassing limitations of what most 'line' dimmers can handle. So you can have 10 chandeliers that may be 1000w each and are wired to 5 20 amp breakers, and control them from a single 0-10v dimmer.

I have already come to terms with that a lot of things will be changed. I am open to taking out the doorbell, lock and alarm and add products that are compatible with control4. Control4 chime for example.

I mean this thread here is about asking for/downloading cracked copies and the stance of the forum on such topics: So based on the spirit of that sticky post (one of the few stickys on this entire forum - which I believe there should be more) I think its clear that someone using a version of cracked composer pro is well, not really playing by the rules of this forum. It was also the users first post, and never came back either, so ya have that too...If it was a professional I am sure he'd want the answer to solve a client's issue because well, got to make the client happy. Most dealers posting for help/ideas on here are fairly engaged in the back and forth because they are looking for client solutions to make a client happy. I am an end user - but I still offered some help - regardless if it was with a bit of sarcasm or not. So there's that too. The other two questions would clearly be answered in training. Furthermore the post starts off by mentioning "experimenting with a few systems". That is likely someone buying stuff off ebay, plugging it in, playing around and tinkering. Not someone who has an established business, put the up front time/cost into C4 training and is starting to sell C4 solutions. I look at it this way - I am an end user, and some of those questions are super basic. The fact that you know (as well as I know) that in training they recommend an EA1 at each location but it is not really necessary makes me wonder why someone would even post that question who is a legit copy of Composer Pro. In the classroom (in person or virtual) I am sure they explain why and I am sure someone could raise their hand and ask questions. I would hope C4 even gives new dealers post training support so they could ask follow up questions so seems odd to ask it in a public forum as a "professional". 100% i can see an end user asking that question after getting a proposal or maybe 2-3 proposals and 1 includes 10 EA1s at 10 TVs and another has an EA5 and an EA1 or something and they wonder why 1 quote has 10 units and 1 quote has 1. That is a totally rational question to ask. So yes, I surmise it is a cracked copy of Composer Pro. And given the post I linked to I believe asking for help using Composer Pro is just against the spirit of the forum, that's all. Just my personal opinion. Its not right or wrong.

Just wanted to thank msgreenf for all of his help.

Elv doesn't mean low voltage. Adaptive phase is what you need.

Unfortunately, at first glance, looks like Satin Nickle and Oil Rubbed Bronze are the only options... We really need black, the property has black doors and hinges, black trim, black windows, etc. I may also get a Level and use the Veritas HomeBridge driver to try and integrate. I do feel like C4 and or the lock manufactures need to up the game, buyers at the upper end care about design and the option right now look like they are out of early 2000's

Yes, Bluestacks does allow you to do this, but Bluestacks in full of adware for games and is 99.9% focused on games and pushing you to install games. Being able to run the Android apps natively without needing anything would be useful. In the Bluestacks world it seems that all "apps" are know as "games" - like this:

Its been a while, but I had a problem with my purchase of a small form Samsung Frame TV. I found out it only had two HDMI input ports (the larger frame TV's have 4 HDMI input ports). That meant I could only have two the following three: (i) C4 OSD; (ii) Xfinity cable or ()iii) Roku. Of course, I could get by without the C4 OSD but did not like it. So I used one input for cable and the other for Roku. My dealer fixed this problem. He left my cable box HDMI out connected direct to one of the Tv's two HDMI inputs. He ran the C4 controller HDMI output and the Roku HDMI output to an HDMI switch. The output from ther swicth then wenty to the second HDMI input on the Tv. He set up a driver that selects the correct HDMI output from the switch depending on whether I push the C4 red button or push the Roku button. The switch now automatically selects C4 OSD or Roku depending on which selection I make on the remote. Greaqt job by Patrick at Entertainment Designs in MPLS!! Johnnyboy

Nothing at all against Araknis, and I understand the convenience of OVRC from a business perspective very well - but for your own system if you HAVE a running Ruckus setup, I also can't grasp why you'd want to change it out. OVRC is nice, but hardly world changing. Now if you feel you need OVRC to deal with issues at the house because it is needed often, you may want to look at the why vs implementing a work-around to keep it going....

Yeah, it’s history now, am on holiday 😎 from this incident, also need to give credit to C4 for creating this power horse the HC800 that is 12 years old and still kicking 😀

I’d leave C4 for your use case. It’s not that many light switches. Spend your money installing Lutron Caseta replacements, and you’ll never look back.

Using a properly matched IP driver should work just fine - we do many. You won't be able to use mini-apps without IP control just FYI.

SimpleC4 is our Alexa skill. It can also control your C4 system, but is definitely not the official C4 skill. It does have the advantage that you don't have to pay for C4 Cloud service. If you want to use it please see https://splash-tiles.com/help/alexa_c4.php

If you only have one way to get into the house then I might agree to that. The fact is, most homes have multiple entry points and the odds of them all being dead at once is very slim.

It has been removed by Amazon in many countries. You can, however, log in to Amazon with a different region (eg USA) and still access it very easily. All that is needed is a US address.

All of mine have alternate "switches" (most always on a 6-button KPD) elsewhere in the house (in a convenient location relative to the load/s or scene function). I think only 1 button on a KPD directly controls a load and all the others need the controller to cause the intended action. I haven't counted them up, but we have way more than the 10 backup switches in the house (counting a 6-button KPD as 6 switches).

As I've started to price out the cost of switching everything over to something else it's making me think I should give Composer Home Edition and see whether that scratches my itch for now. I'm going to need a dealer to grant me access to the account that they set up for the previous owner, correct? Like others have said I'm inclined NOT to use that dealer again given the crazy setup they've built here. Any advice for how to get this moving?

Netplay is software downloaded to your decoding device, ie: most android TV’s, media players, etc. You’d identify that decoder to the Videostorn system. Does require a license in order to be activated. the Virtual Matrix Manager is what runs the show as far as changing inputs and outputs and setup of the system. This is required. Encoders can be 3rd party or get VS one (which is 1080p only)

That's not exactly comparing apples to apples though for $10. That adapter doesn't provide an additional stream, it just taps into the hdmi stream. The EA 3 provides 2 additional, independent music streams (as well as more processing etc).

I was able to associate the 3 custom command buttons with device specific commands which already had the (10) installation modes listed so I made mode 1 2.35 x1 and mode 2 16x9. Once I have some content in another format such as 2.4x1 I will assign it to the 3rd. Thanks for the great help everyone!

Whole heartedly agree with Mitch. They are very responsive and will tell you the truth. I've dealt with them a couple of times on my bond. BTW - I'm very happy with it as well as the integration with C4. Works as advertised - one way is still very beneficial. Mitch helped me to add Chowmain's driver and some related automation - one use case just tested with tropical storm Elsa perfectly! - so if you need some assistance, I'd highly recommend him as well as Alan's driver.

I never understood the complaints of no backlight for Neeo. There's only a handful of buttons to memorize.

There's a C4 Wireless contact sensor that can run on batteries. Both the Z2IO and the contact sensor do temp and humidity. Then there's the Axxess Industry options, that have temp and options for humidity, powered and battery powered options as well. I tend to find that the Axxess ones on battery last longer before you need to replace them - the batteries I mean- they use 3v lithium ion batteries vs standard AA. So if it's hard to get to to replace batteries, those may be a preferable option (the batteries are more expensive though)

I appreciate the good ideas on programming. The TP-Link powerline devices came in this morning, and I was able to get everything set up and secured, with the WiFi piece in my crawlspace. Flo App shows a solid 4 bars, and with my phone shows 25mbps bandwidth, so I think I should be good to go here. I don't know if the somewhat more humid conditions under there, with more temperature fluctuations than within the house, will prematurely age it, but hopefully it should last a while. It's a cheap fix if it needs to be replaced down the road. Got both pieces for $80. The Flo is still in "learning" phase, but it will be interesting to see its analysis once it has enough data. Overall I'm pretty happy with this addition.

Ended up with a Triad One and a set of Bose 251 environmental speakers. Turns out I get a crazy good discount at Bose, so figured for the price they were worth a shot. I’ve usually avoided Bose since having a Lifestyle system way back in the day. The Bose set was way larger than what I was expecting, but think they will do the trick. Going to test them out some more when I get back in town. Got everything setup right before I had to leave. Loving the style and compactness of the Triad One though.

Oh stop selling the crappy product already.