lippavisual

If its like most fan controllers, it will work with matterlink. Looks similar to others that I've used.

Hmm, that's a pathetic spec sheet. Very surprised they don't even mention frequency.

Its not your cables. Its the amp itself. I believe it was the gain circuitry boards that they used. Keep the gain knobs very low and you can still hear a faint buzzing. Turning the gain knobs up only amplifies the buzzing even more. These things should have been recalled by C4. They certainly didn't last too long in the marketplace for a reason.

Look under the specs of the fan control, not the fan itself.

DC motors will not work with C4 Fan controllers. Your option for the DC fan would be utilizing the included RF remote unit and a Matterlink device to control speeds. Then you could use a configurable keypad to control the speeds.

what model is the 8 zone amp?? Is it the new Triad one or the older C4 branded one?? The latter was notorious for this problem. Bad design through and through. If it is the latter, get your dealer to take it back and get the Triad unit.

latest firmware version overwrites any user added settings for SIP2/etc. Suggestion is to use older firmware where this didn't happen. Sorry I don't remember which version that is though.

Sounds as though you have a C4 dimmer installed along with a couple auxiliary keypads to complete your 4-way setup. It's going into fault protection, indicated by the red led. Read below. Detail: When a fault is detected, the power is removed from the load to protect the device and the top LED will flash red once a second. Composer will indicate the fault type (and Director will trigger an event) To view what the Fault Condition is, open up ComposerPro, go to the “System Design” page and Select the dimmer experiencing this condition. Under the Advanced Properties you will see a section titled “Fault Detection.” The status of the Fault will be displayed. Adaptive Dimmers, Forward Phase Dimmers, & Keypad Dimmers have the ability to detect three different types of fault conditions. Short circuit –Very high current spike that could damage the device. True short circuit – e.g. driving a nail through the wires Overly high in-rush current or peak current from LED or fluorescent loads An incandescent or halogen light bulb burning out Dimming a non-dimmable CFL or LED Over-wattage – Occurs when the load wattage exceeds the maximum rated wattage for the dimmer. Over Temperature – Occurs if the dimmer overheats to an unsafe operating level. This is most likely to occur when multi-ganging lighting devices without complying with the Dimmer’s power De-rating recommendations, or dimming light loads that are not designed to be dimmed by the product installed. If an over temperature fault occurs, the device must cool down to a safe operating temperature before the load can be turned back on. ACTION: To reset the short circuit and over-wattage faults, do one of the following: Turn the light on from the device itself, through programming, through a scene, etc. Open the device properties in Composer and click the fault detection reset button If a device faults again within 15 seconds of turning on after a reset, we assume it isn’t just a “nuisance trip.” Resolve the underlying issue and then force one of the following to reset the fault: Click the top button 15 times to reboot the dimmer Activate the air-gap (not available on 240V dimmers) Open the device properties in Composer and click the fault detection reset button If a device continues to fault, there’s an underlying issue (wiring, too much load, etc.) that needs to be resolved. You may need to consult with the Electrical Contractor.

Have a cover over the emitter?? Sunlight degrades infrared. If that fails, open the TV up and place the naked emitter inside the casing.

I use these for my projects. https://www.btx.com/products/3097CONNECTORS/3154TERMINAL BLOCK/3156MAXBLOX(R).aspx

That's one option, but it was also the last option I noted. Without the original source code, the only remedy is to reset it all and reprogram from scratch. Almost guaranteed,to be difficult, but not impossible, in finding a Crestron shop that is willing to take the project over. Better off finding a freelance Crestron Programmer in the area.

Are iPads still swelling from being constantly charged?? The few I’ve done, I’ve switched them to use injectors plugged into a watt box and have a daily schedule to kill power for 8 hours or so. Was a major problem a couple years ago.

Pretty sure you’d need the source code anyways to even use the Crestron driver. From what I recall on dealer forums, the driver had some issues anyways. Find the guy that did it and threaten lawsuit. Or find someone willing to reset it it all and re-program or just replace it all and start from scratch. Many options here.

it all depends. Don't give all the info, don't get all the answers!!

or you can try the zigbee antenna extender on your rack controller (assuming that it runs zigbee network). That will get it out of the faraday cage