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lippavisual last won the day on January 14

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About lippavisual

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    Control4 Wizard

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  1. Bindings all depend on what you're trying to accomplish. Binding lights or lighting scenes has better, quicker, granular control when a button is bound to said light or scene vs. programming it. Also, this is assuming you're using the newer Gen3 keypads and not the original 6-button keypads. See below for examples
  2. My wife is a curtain freak, so I have them anyways. Don't require blackouts either, just the privacy would be nice.
  3. Tell him to statically assign DNS on the WAN port.
  4. Figured as much. Set your WAN DNS to,, DO NOT use the provided Comcast DNS. Your dealer should be able to find a tech note for these turds.
  5. Still is unfortunately. I just wish they found a way to not have the foggyness on the clear/ON setting. I'd put the film in instead of shades personally.
  6. What is your router? I wouldn't rule out wiring from street to house, but I doubt that's the issue.
  7. The up/down arrow keys need to be set as "follow last button press" in order to do what your asking for multiple device control. It will work exactly as you describe, press lamp button, then up/down will dim. Same with music button, up/down on volume control. All of these actions do need to be bound to a driver's connections in order to achieve this. All newer gen buttons/dimmers/switches support single/double/triple actions. They do offer a keypad switch, but only in EU, nothing for USA. Dimmer only. The dimmers can be set for instant on/off of a load, but the same dimming prin
  8. Well, if you want focused triggering, the beam sensor would work better IMO. Especially, if you add a second set so you can track coming and going. Would allow much more detailed and controlled programming. Like "walking IN", all lights stay on. Then "walking OUT", shut all lights, music, etc. off. Like I said though, what he wants to use should work with minimal trial and error (ie: adjusting sensitivity).
  9. STOP is the problem. And as said above, you should create a timer instead of using delay. Delay is more processor intensive, especially for 15 minutes. When wake is enabled, Start Timer "morning routine". When Timer "morning routine" expires, play radio station.
  10. Personally, I'd rather the beam. But what you linked should work. Note that being installed in the toekick, you're already cutting the sensors spread in half (installed close to the floor). Depending on how much overhang above where this motion would be, you could also cut off spread there as well. Should work though.
  11. If your zigbee mesh is split up and using the rack EA5, could be just a weak mesh. That would explain light status not showing properly. It'd be easy for a dealer to check out to see how many hops these lights/keypads have to get back to the server.
  12. I'd use something more like these beam sensors: https://www.surveillance-video.com/security-e-932-d33tbq.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAgJWABhArEiwAmNVTB_4exrVKlQ9m2g4JsVEuYAlwMlB6d2W_Epq5aTCA6m4WfrZircXZ4hoCrWUQAvD_BwE They also make some that only have a 3/4" hole for the sensor as long as there's room behind to install the device. You'd be looking at around a 30ms roundtrip to turn your lights on, so pretty darn quick.
  13. Most, if not all, video is produced and recorded at 30Hz. The human eye can not perceive the difference between 30/60. Only test equipment can show the difference between the 2.
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