lippavisual

I’d just make my own using readily available aluminum channel and run it all low voltage DMX.

Roku is silently sending out an update to fix the problem. Was supposed to be completed by end of this weekend. No user interaction is required.

Static electricity is no joke and can wreak havoc on electronics. Certain carpet cleaners are known to raise the level of static electricity too. Their assumptions don't seem to far off to me, I've seen it myself.

If you want to extend the audio outputs of the EA3 to another room over the network, then you'll have to rely on Dante. Or you can use a CATx Audio Adapter. Streaming services will only output on the physical audio out jacks.

Since you worked for a dealer, you know the rules. You need an email that’s associated with a dealer account. Find another dealer to work for??

Add path setter driver and force it.

Yes, have a couple customers experiencing the same problem. No Dpad controls work. i have 2 at home and both are working fine. Noticed other control platforms are reporting the same problem.

The remote doesn’t display .5 volume. At least for my Marantz, Denon and Yamaha’s I’ve installed, you'll notice the volume stays on a whole number for 2 button presses. is that what you’re seeing?? Adding that programming is just going to cause problems.

What hoops? Pretty simple process. The driver is needed so a dealer can link licenses to your system.

I just did a bunch of these recently at a commercial project. All of them however were tied back to an access control system. Basically, run an 18/4 from any C4 controller with a relay to where the connection is on the door. Youll need a 12v or 24v power supply (whatever the lock requires) to energize the lock. Then you’ll have to wire the power supply between a contact and relay on the C4 controller. A C4 keypad (dc or ac powered) can be installed to wirelessly control the lock through programming.

I’ve been using the Cleerline fiber aoc hdmi cables without issues. I’ve used just about every length they have too, up to 40m. They also package a M/F HDMI to USB dongle if your source doesn’t provide 5v on the line. i mostly do commercial work, so Zoom or Teams rooms or BYOD conferencing. These cables have worked without a hitch. Granted, I haven’t yet tried pushing what you’re trying to, but at least it’s another vendor you can try.

Conduit is always a better choice if feasible. At that length, conduit and fiber hdmi would be my choice. One less thing relying on power.

18 gauge wire should be suitable for 95% of homes. Try to stick with 24v.

Rgb= 4 wire rgbw= 5 wire rgbcct= 6 wire Nothing wrong with going the DMX route. Tried and true method that’s been around. Plus, the less off my wifi the better. Engineering Solutions or Axion for the controller and pair with whatever drivers and power supplies you choose.

Battery life has added an additional day off my charger. what I wish we have is to be able to adjust the sensitivity of motion/wake. My subwoofer does wake the remote a good amount of times.

Most likely won't happen. Again, it's not the cause of your problems. I deal with many products that throw the same certificate warnings for local web access, that otherwise, function normally. Better yet, ditch the RK1 and get something more current.

Nope, that was available in older versions of C4 OS. Did you look to see what OS your friends system was running?

75 ohm

I for one don’t play around with my stats. I set a schedule and that’s the way it stays. But yes, using any other interface with the stat works perfectly fine. I also have mini splits at home for AC in the summer, so when I shut down my boiler for the season, the stats can be used for temp in the rooms, even though they are set to off. And because there isn’t an official Mr. Cool driver, I use an http driver to send commands to the mini splits, if needed.

Based in NE as well here. I wouldn’t do any of that above. install temp sensors at each thermostat location and move all thermostats down to the boiler. Install a separate 24VAC power supply and wire each thermostat to it for constant power. This is what I’ve done in my own house and many others that have the same systems.

I’ve seen lightning smoke out network switches and the devices connected to them when using copper cable as a backbone. Better to be safer than sorry. Fiber is non-conducive so a better way to connect anything outdoors, especially a pool house or out building. Pricing on fiber is really not that expensive and most net switches have SFP ports nowadays. Compared to a CAT6A cable for 10GB, fiber pricing should be a no brainer.

What AVR are you using? Does it support set volume from either IP or RS232?

The DiTek works great. We use them all the time when we transition from outdoor to indoor. the Ubnt one’s have failed for us several times. You get what you pay for!!

No knock on you Neil, I’m sure you did everything right. Example of customer relaying information that they don’t have or understand.

Not only that, it’s your dealers responsibility, not C4’s. Take up your issues with them. charging 20 hours labor for updating drivers seems a bit sketchy to me.