Cyknight

I would reboot just the bus ethernet gateway (pin point reset button, just press and release) and see if that brings the keypads back online. Other question would be - can you control lighting using a touchscreen or the app (or even a remote)

It's long dead. While it may be possible to do something using the serial event driver by domosapiens (drivercentral.io) I can't imagine that the time spent to make that work even half decent makes any sense.

So you're sure there is no setup done to automatically turn on the room when Sonos is detected to be playing? If not, than my first thoguh is to check if you have any wake-up that got set by accident

I believe this is known and being looked at So....do you have Alexa setup using C4's driver or Epic's driver?

Shairbridge sometimes get 'stuck' in a session, especially when a phone leaves the wifi without ending the airplay session... A reboot of the main controller will reset it, or if you have HE composer you can go to the driver, rename the broadcast name in the settings (and rename it back again if you like) and it'll clear as well.

So...how did you bind it to the keypad button?

You cannot change rooms on remote through programming

Agreed, though aesthetics can come into play for the choice as well.

Short answer - YES you can use a T3 as a full keypad Personally, I would advise one dedicated keypad per floor, in a central location from where people will be, in easy reach of the main entrances of the main floor.

Oh here's the information - the Simon line has ZERO ability to integrate (no expansion modules possible). Also no clue why you like it, it's a horrible piece - but to each their own. You bet For sure, though there may be a small delay (wireless motion takes some time to report to panel, panel to C4 is usually fast) Yep, security is available on oall interface Concord, PowerPC and NEO (Interlogix and DSC). They're all fine. Leaning towards NEO these days, just has nices options available. Availability of other panels will depend on where you're at, and even interlogix isn't readily available everywhere. Honeywell is the other big one often available, but it's integration is not nearly as smooth as DSC options are.

It would be called RGB off the top of my head. It's just a toggle 'bulb' that shows different colors that you pre-program (ie 2 shades of green, blue, red, purple etc). It's better than tinkering with slider all the time, but it's a far stretch from a color wheel

Yes it is. Mhhh. The reasoning is not completely unreasonable - I have seen some minor issues with some of our bigger 3rd party lighting projects. I could see where much larger setups could be a problem. How big of a problem I imagine also depends on what 3rd party lighting. That said, if Scenes aren't supported, it should be handled differently - ie don't allow adding them to scenes at all to begin with. Of course the fact that it DID work (to whatever degree) for so long makes this that much more painful. Let's just say I was NOT happy to learn of it.

Hue (and other 3rd party lighting) is apparently not truly supported in C4 Advanced Lighting anymore apparently. You have to program off of the scene vs having them in the scene. Homeation/TheDriversLab had a driver, but I'm not even sure they're actively in the business anymore? That said if you want a better interface for the RGB stuff: https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/colour-wheel/

On what device? Make sure you're not just looking at the print on the block, but also on the controller, so you're not accidentally connected to a relay... -Test sensor inputs with a piece of local wire that you can just jumper sig to +12v and check reading, then cut wire and see what it says. You say there's continuity....is there continuity across when the contact is open? Because there shouldn't be....continuity means there's a path for power to go through, if with the contact open or better yet for testing disconnected, there should NOT be a path, meaning there's a short somewhere. I don't think the wire length is an issue in this scenario, as you keep reading closed - if you're reading open all the time, there could be too much voltage drop.

Which takes about ... 5 seconds 😊