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Control4 Dealer
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Cyknight last won the day on June 27

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About Cyknight

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  1. Not really, not on a two year old thread - not to mention that I'd be interested to know if two years ago that information WAS indeed incorrect. Oh by the way: Yes it is a protocol - there's just a lot of products that use it and controlers available designed for it. Very much like BACNet, or more accurately like Z-Wave, ZigBee, X10, DMX, etc. There I felt obliged to set the record straight. 😉
  2. LOL no you don't, HC250 doesnt run OS3 😉 And yes I get what you mean to say.
  3. I still suspect your problem is that the aux are not running on the same neutral - so unless you can pull a neutral through all the boxes.... So unless you can get that done, the answer is 'Mr/Mrs client we CANNOT do this under the budget available due to wiring issues so we have to go THIS way' May not be the answer they like (or you for that matter) and yes we understand that - but sometimes you do just have to bite the bullet.
  4. SR260 is software version dependant, not specifically hardware dependant. Assuming your OS is on a new enough version, you can add a SR-260 (and yes, last HC250 OS (2.10.6) certainly supports the SR-260 though I can't remember what the cut-off was - pretty sure even 2.9 should support, not sure about earlier than that.
  5. So the I/O is offline. Either fix that issue, unless it's a lemon... Yes 2.9.1 is that last version for i/o extenders (they work in later versions, just don't get a software update because...there's nothing to update)
  6. Uhh that contradicts itself. If new ones were pulled, how can you not know the path of the wires? My guess? Those neutrals in the three boxes are NOT jumpered but going to the panel, messing it up there. My solution? Put the switches at the 3rd box, aux in the others, use the power feed in box 3 for power and use the 4 conductors to pass through the 'yellow' AND the neutral back to the AUX. Better solution? Get rid of two of the two gang boxes, replace them with singles and but in ONE keypad in each locations with as many buttons as desired. Depends on ability to do so of course.
  7. It's bring looked into, something about the app being a security priority. Hence why I have the app on my Sony, not my Apple phone
  8. LOL. I needed a laugh. You're bitching about Home systems and calling the end-users people asking dumb questions...on a forum primarily aimed at helping end-users. Then you go on about how long you've been doing things ... I just LOVE those type of justifications. Then you complain about the fact that Control4 sets requirements that you didn't feel like meeting - poor baby. Oh and then you go on about how you ripped out thousands of dollars worth of equipment (possibly 10's) and made your customer pay for a new system. Wonderful. Oh and you decided to do it on a TEN YEAR OLD THREAD So much to laugh about! I've got NOTHING against QSC - it's a perfectly fine product for it's target clientele. But you're comparing ... not apples with oranges, but apples with sausages... PS I've made some damn fine apple sausages on occasion 😉
  9. IP or serial has the ability (in general, though it is device and driver dependent as well) to have 2-way communication. This could be considered 'superior' if implmented as the system can then know if a device is on or off, muted or not, the system can display volume % and possibly program off of changes done externally (ie 3D mode). In THAT sense IR is inferior. BUT IR has been around for a looooooooooooooooong time for a reason - it IS reliable. IP in particular is prone to networking issues, implementation, minor changes in firmware can break it and so on. In both cases it (IR or other) it will depend a lot on the device, the driver and other, secondary, factors (examples: is the IR window in a good place/inconspicuous - is the device exposed to a lot of daylight which can wash IR signals out, is the network dependable) on which is the BETTER choice for any given situation. Not to mention - if a device has an IR remote that is in hand...ANY dealer should be able to quickly make a basic driver in a few minutes.
  10. It's DESIGNED for a one room solution in that it has limited IRs/serial and only a single HDMI audio output (ie connect it to a receiver). It indeed used to be locked to one controller only (they did the same with the HC200, not sure why they repeated this, perhaps both were to make it clear that the EA1 was it's own beast, and that the replacement for the HTC/HC250 respectively was the HC300/EA3). So yes, feel free to slap a few tiad ones to an EA1
  11. Sony, Pro Mode. Done. That said I've got numerous Samsungs out there that are working flawlessly, but some have issues using SDDP (just us direct IP ID). Done plenty of LG no issue, then there are some... As per above post, all brands (and lines/models) can have quirks, there is no TRUE 'this TV brand just works)' answer. When it come time to upgrade my 4K curve Samsung, I'm going Sony and fork out the bit extra.... Make of that last bit what you will.
  12. Another Perspective 1 In theory yes, and it's ok to do as described for a color or custom button (the 1,2,3 dot buttons) but limit yourself as it is easily forgotten what all of them do. 2 ehm. NO. back is usually PREV(ious) though depending on the driver in some cases, especially cable/sat boxes cancel may b e used for back or 'live' instead. It's driver dependent 3 Not quite Colour buttons CAN be defined in the driver, and most drivers wil allow assigning specific device commands to those buttons (and, again to the custom 1,2,3 buttons) which will then be triggered no matter what room that source is used in. You can ALSO program over-all functions to those buttons PER ROOM (as in what room the remote is displaying) - but doing both will result in both functions happening. To prevent that, you'd have to program in a whole string of IF statements, room by room. Can be done, but realize the work your going for (and remember those dot buttons!!) 4 Exactly the sort of thing what you're looking to do, but you're overthinking the complexity of pressing watch then selecting the source. Just put her preferences at the top. You'll likely find it is a non-issue. 5 Pop-up is only on neeo (and can be disabled), room off IS A/V off as mentioned. 6 Nope. 7 Sure, those dot buttons will do nicely. I would assume there's no true feedback (at least not on a sr260 remote) - but if you're doing C4 lighting you could have a button or switch LED color (or all of them int he room) change color to provide a 'room state' feedback. 8 Use a switch that can downsample. Frankly almost any other work around will not be reliable UNLESS the source driver/device has a built-in ability to directly set the audio output (never came across one). Yes I know you mentioned you're 'going for a different switch' - but if this is the function you need, you need to get the right gear. 9 They're there, but as mentioned it's not intuitive, that's not what they were designed for. Any experience button under watch or listen is jsut there, so it's usuable enough, but when it comes to some of the feedback you're mentioning, that's not available on the SR260
  13. ? I've NEVER used b connectors with unstripped wires... You want to do it right, solder and shrinkwrap.
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