Cyknight

I personally despise the 'modern' C4 look but to each there own. I much prefer the 'traditional' version (especially in midnight black with an actual stainless steel cover). That said, tastes will differ. I do like these: https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/touch-keypads/ Rithum is another options that I've looked at but never used them. I'm concerned about speed of control a bit on those and just had zero time to trial them. In the end, we've done VERY few alternative options - because the added cost of alternative keypads with less snappy control, or much more expensive keypads that work just as well tends to convince even the most 'liquid' clients. We've played with some KNX options and things like the blacknova aria but it's rarely gone anywhere, and frankly they rarely work quite as well as a regular keypad. Most cases it's a few alternate options in specific locations such as decked out theatres but the majority still regular keypads. The problem with the overly fancy options is also that they POP a lot more. Which is nice in a demo setup and looks great on a web page showing one of them....but it tends to become this obvious thing sticking out on every wall of your house if you put them everywhere and actually can feel like MORE wall clutter, not less. Just something to consider. Also, while the 'touch' look is again nice, think of how you live and move around in the house. A 'tactile' keypad over the course of a bit of time become muscle memory - you walk across the house and merely 'feel' what button to press, do so blindly and move along and you get what you want. Generally for any touch options - you will ALWAYS stop and look at what you're doing. Not telling you NOT to do alternate and fancy options - but don't get drawn too much into the look of something, that may be better of not being noticeable at all. Those are touchscreen alternatives, as in an alternative for using a touchscreen, not so much keypads, and I find them rather 'meh'

Nothing new from C4 as far as I'm aware, not sure if there was a sonos update or not. What did you have to reboot to get it back? C4, The sonos pieces?

On a serious note, OP I have to agree with Andrew: it sounds like you may be over your head to begin with. It's not clear, but I assume you don't have access to ComposerPro and the DevTools. Without it you will never succeed, and getting that depends on Control4/Snap - not from whatever anyone on here can really tell you. From there, the fact that you're asking where to get the control hex codes for the device you're making a driver for indicates that you have the whole though process backwards. Those codes are provided by the device company: Control4 doesn't just make up codes at random for a device. And yes, if you think creating a two-way RS232 driver is a single (or two, three) page PDF explanation, then yes - find someone to do it for you. NOW if you are indeed a C4 dealer with Pro access, and all you're looking to do is a simple one-way serial control driver: well as along as you can get the codes from the manufacturer (note, Decimal, Hexadecimal and Ascii are all supported in writing a driver), as well as Baud rate, parity etc needed on their end, then the Composer built-in driver wizard makes it pretty simple to create a serial driver and the online user guide has plenty of info if you're willing to dig into it. I'll look over the idea that you wouldn't know what driver type to use and wanting to create a driver because videowall is a bit of an odd one, but it's going to be AVswitch.

Here's mine, it's a few lines only really. Find out what client means by nothing's working. Fix the problem.

Assuming this is a lutron central panel system with low voltage keypads...Oh probably a $100k or up to rewire the complete house, redo drywall (assuming it's drywall, not latch let alone brick or concrete) and repaint everything to ensure colour match plus permits for electrical, fixing whatever shows up because you're doing a full house reno that wouldn't pass inspection.... Pretty sure seller is going to pass on your offer....

That seems a huge leap. As Ari above, we have a ton of Chimes out there and very few issues at all, non having the one you reported. It's certainly not the could service as you already mention phone to phone is working, which uses the same cloud service. To ask the obvious: did you check the wire going to the chime? did you but the chime on a short jumper wire direct at the network switch to test?

Hmm. Indeed the color buttons do not show.... weird.

Source driver, IR code, or 'device specific commands' - depends on the driver. If the driver doesn't have it...in your case you may be able to use the room, and send {colour} command. {colour} of course denotes that you add red, green etc depending on which one you wnat

The touch doesn't have genric hard buttons, so the only thing you could really do is at a room level: WHEN command {whatever unused button available on the halo touch is available, say STOP} is received IF {room} selected device is androidTV send command {colour} to AndroidTV

Default doorbell press on chime = call all screens. The check mark I mentioned only disables the 'dingdong' sound (don't confuse the name of the doorbell which is 'Chime' with the wording 'play door chime'. The latter literally just means 'play ringing sound if doorbell station calls'. I can see where it may be confusing mind you. An announcement is NOT an intercom announcement, it is the ability to play a sound effect triggered by an event. The fact hat you may be trying to sound a 'doorbell chime' sound through speakers when the 'Chime doorbell' button is pressed has nothing to do with the INTERCOM portion of the door station to call a touchscreen (or your phones). Up to you if you want to screens to play that announcement as well, though if I don't recommend it for your scenario (keep it simple: play desired sound, be it winchester chimes a roaring lion or a machine gun firing, on the speakers, leave the touchscreens 'dingdng' off and just have it deal with the intercom. Yes, the wording can be confusing: announcements have been in use for a LONG time and more recently added touchscreens as an option (but before intercom was introduced), then came intercom and eventually the doorstation got to be called 'chime'..... so it all sort of evolved into this setup where some naming conventions could use an update....

Depends on how big, and what budget really. Frame 32" should come in around 500 or less on sale. Viewsonic carries a portable oled screen at 15" with speakers at 1/2 an inch deep that you could probably just tape onto the wall with industrial tape (but would cost you about the same as the frame).

It doesn't allow adding more controllers. Will it allow you to add more than one room - yes it will. Should you add more than one room beyond the function of a double room for audio options (TV vs surround vs headphones), maybe use a Zone2 out on a receiver or a few lights? No you really shouldn't.

That'd be your obvious option yes . If you want something else, you'll have to look into a separate setup for keypads: no other keypads can be connected to the C4 bridge. Small note: nothing FORCES you to use the C4 keypad bridge to use C4 central lighting.

1- take that volume 0 out on the announcement, that is for your detailed announcement only. 2 - if you don't want ANYTHING to play from the touchscreens, simply remove those touchscreens from the announcement 3 - to prevent the default 'ring' you'll have to go to each screen and disable the 'play door chime' option on the properties page.

Example: Motion alert email template Motion was detected by [insert name] add a single email address to the template Then when programming, add any emails you want (even delete the template one if desired) and replace [insert name] with the actual motion name/location

They are templates. Just create a single template that has the wording you always/almost always use, then when programming to send it, you can edit the content right under programming

5-7 is long, though having a lot of wireless devices can certainly increase that time. Know that the C4 system will try to buffer for the lowest common denominator. There will also be a delay for Airplay to begin with (which could be 1-3 seconds, again depending on network speed/latency). The two things that are likely to affect the speed it takes are -System settings under digital audio (you may well be able to adjust these in HE: under monitoring look for 'digital audio' or 'digital media'). You can lower the max quality (if only using airplay, you can basically lower it to the lowest setting without ever noticing a difference), for the latency settings: Audio Latency Profile: Depending on the complexity of the project, select from one of the three profiles below. Level 1 (Default) - Ideal for most systems. Recommended for hardwired ethernet-based audio streaming devices, but can also work for projects that include a small number of wifi-based audio streaming devices. Level 2 - Recommended for larger systems that utilize controller HDMI outputs for audio streaming and/or multiple wifi-based audio streaming devices. Level 3 - Recommended for the largest systems that utilize several controller’s HDMI outputs for audio streaming and several wifi-based audio streaming devices. -You (wifi especially in your case) network speed.

Note, OSD is 1080p only, not 4K And no Audio out (beyond HDMI) But yes it would be an easy replacement for local controllers for a few devices and do OSD. Note that as of my last check at least, Core Light is ONLY sold WITH a remote (SR 260, Neeo or Halo Tactile/Touch) The lower computing power is a non-issue if it's not running a system, still plenty to do OSD, IR/serial and be a ZigBee server in a larger system.

Check your DNS settings, and ensure your router is set to use static 8.8.8.8 and 1.1.1.1 - for itself but more so on the LAN side.

As Mitch above mentioned, this likely is due to a known change/glitch in C4/Spotify update. Likely as he said update the Spotify driver and the system software. Nothing major if you're already on 3.x. Reach out to Mitch above with a PM and he can get you sorted in shot order

I personally have it at 5 - but I don't power off the boxes to begin with

But there is! Note that if feasible, use the IP driver (yes shaw boxes work fine behind a 'regular' router, yes shaw will tell you it won't, because they won't support it) It's super stable. THAT SAID I just updated my shaw bluecurve driver to fix this issue, as well as an odd one where recall worked on 90% of the boxes but the occasional one just wouldn't react. Yes it's an icon driver. Shaw_BlueCurve.c4z

The IP driver doesn't have the DVR/PVR command (I think I've been told it's not implemented in the API at all) - It's been so long I'm not even sure the original device remote has it? This has nothing to do with the Halo remote, the SR series don't have the function either. At any rate, pressing menu should bring up an onscreen menu that allows you to go to recordings.

Roku = better integration and full C4 to Roku partnership Shield = better (ish, it's 5 years old) and a little more versatile overall. I LOVE the shield as such....but it's been dead quiet on the shield for 5 years..... and it IS 5years old. Plenty of debate if a new one is coming, nothing is certain.... I personally wouldn't fork out the cost for a shield at this point to be honest - get a roku at 1/3 the price and reconsider once (if) a new shield comes out

I have also seen electric shock disabling keypads. Especially if you have a centralized system with keypads wired to a central controller, it's not crazy that a hefty or repeat shock could not only disable a keypad, but also a controller or powersupply. Not very likely to cause permanent damage, but can certainly put a device in a frozen state. OP, it may be worth rebooting your lighting panel completely using breakers to see if the system comes back alive across the house. But yes, root cause being static electricity is not far fetched.