Jump to content
C4 Forums | Control4

Cyknight

Control4 Dealer
  • Posts

    15,035
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    641

Everything posted by Cyknight

  1. Well, I would say don't mix SSIDs on differente wifi gens (which is not quote the same as the same gen AP by the way) - you COULD get a different AP in an out building on a completely different SSID and it should be no problem at all (similarly I have an AP set to a different SSID completely for in-laws to use when they're visiting with their trailer - where they put it is a dead spot for wifi (and no don't care to have it there any other time), and I wasn't investing in a matching AP, so used one of my old ones on a 2.4 only SSID)
  2. It's less mixing brands, more mixing management environments - unifi and araknis offer management options of some form, allowing checking router status vs switch status vs ap status vs powerbar status vs device status - tying to use TWO of those systems is where it gets a little odd.
  3. Which could mean the AP is using meshing not it's network cable.
  4. First for everything? I would sooner suggest the other way around (araknis router and switch? then use araknis APs) but to each their own. You're mixing two management systems here, and that is never ideal (the whole point of a management system is to make it easy to manage in one place). And the same can be said for unifi APs and switches and routers. There is no right or wrong answer, except perhaps that mixing two network management services isn't ideal. Just to point out: power is transferred on different pair than the MAIN network connection. Gig uses all pair, but it it still depends on the 'main' two pairs (green/orange) are up. It won't default to the 'extra' pairs if the 'main' data connection is down. PoE powering a device does not equal a good cable/termination for that reason.
  5. Honestly the real fix at this time is to ensure the announcement audio file is louder so change in volume is at least limited in most cases.
  6. If local, you'll want a cloudkey because it is NOT a router, and not creating a router on router (gateway) setup.
  7. Tis is where it belonged.... ... Two obvious options. -Integrate the Tekmar (pricey to do) with the Tekmar driver and the gateway -Use a C4 v2 thermostat running on battery. Yes that floor sensor uses the same resistance as a c4 external sensor. May need a bit of tweaking in the temp offset but otherwise should work just fine.
  8. The same as for all my other rooms (an artwork from digital blasphemy)
  9. Sort of correct - what the driver DOES allow you to do is to select colors for the top/bottom/toggle BUT those only work for attached keypads etc. - which is what I'm guessing OP means when he says he's changing settings but it doesn't 'do' anything. Indeed, you cannot change the color of the LED on the bottom of essential devices, only the intensity or reveerse it's indicator function, or ave it off, or programmed, but not what colour it is). I suppose I misspoke when I said you can do it on ANY C4 lighting, wasn't thinking of the essential line.
  10. project properties only apply to items added AFTER they are set. But yes you can go to each light and set the colour as desired (on any c4 light, many 3rd party lights is using keypads, but not all) Note, you can do one, then press apply to to pus it to any others you want as well)
  11. If you mean the ZWAVE ones instead of the Control4 ZigBee ones, yes they can be integrated, thoguh tehri level of integration isnt quite as advanced (limts to user management, autolock - that sort of thing)
  12. Yup To be clear for others coming across this, the Just Add drivers don't switch audio as such, the stereo breakout is on the transmittet, so you just 'pretend' that the source is going to the audio matrix and ignore that there's a converter in between - no different than if you're using a 'normal' hdmi audio breakout device. As with those 'normal' ones, there's the usual caveats:\ -some source drivers are 'too accurate' and don't include a stereo output so a converter driver needs to be added -if doing this on the receiver side (at the TV) then pretend it's coming from the TV instead of the source, and ensure the AV pathsetter is used so you don't get into a fight with the missus when the master TV gets turned on late at night when you are watching some late night TV in the living room
  13. Again, you'd have to test how well the bridge communicates the current status to C4. If it does this reliable and reasonably fast, you could have C4 ONLY do the back open command whenever the sensor is open. That would allow a 'permanent' sort of override by C4 per blind that will trigger regardless of whatever schedules you have set in the app. On time programming (per blind that needs it) and you can keep using the HD app if you like. If it doesn't - then yes you'd have to remove any schedules from the HD app and move it over to C4.
  14. ... Two obvious options. -Integrate the Tekmar (pricey to do) with the Tekmar driver and the gateway -Use a C4 v2 thermostat running on battery. Yes that floor sensor uses the same resistance as a c4 external sensor. May need a bit of tweaking in the temp offset but otherwise works just fine.
  15. It's not a T3 vs T4 or a combo option: they're working just fine for me here (literaly, I can see a T3 and a T4 from where I'm typing this, and both are using photo screensaver). This part I don't know about BTW - I'm talking about the photo screensaver working as such. Right? Same here, if they don't work I get complaints quicker than if a TV doesn't work. Anyway, i did have a small issues after a recent update, where photos were frozen and Composer was throwing similar errors - in my case the USB stick that holds my pictures was in unknown stae - i ONLY rebooted the contreoller that had it inserted and things came back - might be worth a try if that's how you're doing it. What is your storage setup ... using a NAS?
  16. Hmm. The biggest issue i think is that they don't report in (well?) when using anything but C4 to control them. If they do (it's been a while since I dug deeply into the integration of HD) you could only program a counter command. WHEN blind closes IF sensor is open delay 250ms open blind Dont think there's anything in the app C4 can't do if needed, but yes the app has some ease of use.
  17. More rugged construction. Many aren't actually IP rated (cost money, Axxess is a small company) but I've had a motion outside under soffit for over a decade (somewhat covered, still exposed to weather, and it can reach -40 here in extremes....and no it doesn't matter what scale you use). As an example that motion reads...well motion obviously, as well as temperature and humidity (though to be fair, so does the Nyce ceiling motion. Overall Axxess items are just a bit more, dunno, durable feeling? Both companies have their own unique offerings as well (Nyce had a door hinge sensor, Axxess a simple doorbell to integrate, touch keypads and lamp adapters). Note the garage tilt for nyce is discontinued - as is their mini keyfob control.
  18. To be clear, Hue by itself won't reach the distance either, you'd need to get that bridge or indeed a CA1 closer to the gate, of use a wifi implementation if you can get a reliable wifi signal out there. (I suppose you COULD run a CA1 wireless for it if lines are not available by the way)
  19. Well, I could argue that YOU are making it more complicated by adding yet another layer to the mix to begin with. Also, I'll just continue to solder to a MyQ button of some sort...that triggers the built-in beep and delay just fine That said, you would still be USING that same driver, there just isn't a relay attached directly to it, only the same sensors (which is drag and drop) to ensure proper feedback, and two lines of code. Of course, as Alan has already stated it should be easy to do just fine in the driver and just wants to test it, that's even better. I'd argue that if UL is your concern, it's still a step away from the actual implementation - and I would argue that you are actually taking on MORE liability by implementing a 3rd party methodology, especially if you're thereby overriding the manufacturer implementation. I should clarify that I don't disagree with your point that the alert and delay are very important - it's why I prefer the solder method to extra buttons to begin with.
  20. Hmm I would say the Ratgo does not intrinsically meet that requirement. Making the programming meet that is as simply as hiding the actual driver, then using a virtual one with only the sensors attached to program against. WHEN vistual garage door is closed, toggle internal and externla light {xx even numer of timer} , play Frank Caliendo doing Arnold yelling 'Get out, get out of here now!' on loop, delay xx seconds, lower door.
  21. Well I'll take that as the learn something new to me for the day! Didn't know it existed, will have to have a closer look at this one. https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/camera-intercom/message-sender/
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.