Cyknight

Ah sorry, missed that you were looking for it there. I believe you can force it by doing a manual cloud back-up - I assume that's available in HE?

Love my Govee screen back lighting with camera tracking - and love that I can have it just turn on/off with the system but that's as far as I'd go with them. Cloud control and max calls (though decently high max) HUE works well and is reliable, but not ideal for integrated advanced programming. Shelly is a good option if you're 'just' looking to add something after the fact. DMX (and there's many options and details there on it's own) for standard rgb(w). Axxess, Mirus and several options out there that all integrate well with C4. If going pixel, don't expect to pogram anything advanced in C4 - get a DigiDot, create scenes there (or to be exact, create scenes with a laptiopp based pixel software and record them with digidot), then create artnet triggers to start any scene: you can then use the free artnet driver from c4 to add 'switches' to start and stop those scenes.

Literally tell alexa to discover devices, or do so from the alexa app.

So don't take this wrong way: you sure the batteries are in correctly? Are you sure it's actually off and it isn't the screen that is super dim? Are the back-light of the buttons turning on on inserting the batteries? If so, remove batteries, press and hold room off and the red 4 button and reinsert batteries (extra pair of hands can be useful here) and keep holding those buttons until you see something pop up on the screen (or 1 minute if nothing shows)

To be clear: that isn't dismissing any other issues you're having. But let's focus on those directly - please post a new thread on the issues. Oh as a side note, if you're talking about Control4 wireless thermostats....those aren't WIFI thermostats at all, and don't even connect to or via the router to begin with, but directly to a C4 controller.

Things are a bit heated here? In the end the known certificate issue is beyond any doubt purely a browser vs device interface concern. It will not affect DHCP, wifi connections ore remote connections in acertificate issuesnd of itself. It simply cannot. (Temporary) certificate issues like this are common enough, even among some of the most high-end enterprise level routers/gateways/firewalls. Watchguard, Cisco, you name it have had them, just takes a bit of time to get a new firmware created with a new updated certificate, and it's never super high priority because it's always just an interface concern that can be bypassed. Not that it shouldn't (provided the device is still in support life) or doesn't happen, just not going to be up there for a 24 hour fix. Yes it is. Correlation is not proof of causation. Indeed, you probably only noticed the existing certificate issue BECAUSE you're having other issues. One would assume you're not in your router interface regularly. If you are - well you shouldn't be.

Wow just because i'm old? It certainly was a thing on 250 and 260 way back, even on the older remotes. When exactly it was removed however I'm not sure: for sure it wasn't there in OS3. Honestly wouldn't be surprised to learn that it lasted until then though: probably more work to remove than worth it but never made it into the major revamp that was OS3

The V3 has some improved circuitry, and yes most importantly prior to V3 the volume settings were only 25 steps vs a 100 (hence the 4% increments in the interface)

I sincerely doubt the AMD processor has anything to do with it, as it is FAR more likely that your network card is the issue. Your CPU really isn't 'doing' anything to be on the network to begin with. It's even more likely a spy/malware is taking down your network (or your router is taking down the network because it sees something). Oh OK I suppose it's theoretically possible certain AMD processors have a hard-coded malware in them.... There certainly aren't any 'Araknis' incompatibilities with AMD pc CPU processors....I'm writing this on an AMD processor computer (on a full Araknis network). Wait no this sentence is my Intel one Correlation does not imply causation. The fact that two AMD processor laptops when used seem to take down the network, doesn't as such imply that it's the AMD processor in common is the cause of the crash.

ROUTER shouldn't matter, My guess is you had an NK-1 controller - in which case changing that is troublesome, but as it isn't a router, you should be able to leave that in. UNLESS those APs were set to static, in which case you should be able to simply match the new router's IP range to the old settings.

As mentioned, I prefer one mesh from a central location to create a full-house mesh that includes all remotes. Based on your setup, I'd use the centra EA3 for that, do basically all main floor lights and 4-8 select lights on the other two floors, to get remotes there covered plus all remotes, then I'd use the EA3 upstairs for the rest of the top floor, the theatre ea for the rest of the basement. Not true singular right or wrong way though, depends a lot on layout, construction material and so on. And no you manually select what zigbee server to use, it doesn't automatically grab one.

I can't argue that a CA-10 (or even a Core5) would NOT help, but I agree that your issue is more likely mesh related than anything else, and I would certainly suggest redoing the mesh (half a day of labour) first over blindly going to a CA10 (AND do the mesh as that really should be looked at anyway). Easier on the wallet to get that done first and see if it doesn't fix your problems anyway.

Devices need to be manualy assigned to the new meshes (remove from old mesh, re-id in new one). It will be a bit of a process.

A CA-10 will be a huge boost...but I'm not sure you need it. 123 zigbee isn't all that much really - I'd ensure there's 2 if not 3 meshes though. 1 bigger mesh (40 ish lights likely) that is setup in a way to cover the whole house that has any SR series remotes connected to it so they can roam freely and then probably two meshes to do any other lighting devices per floor or wing of the house.

................. Do you have non-adult kids? I'd be in a heap of trouble if I had to keep remotes in a SPECIFIC room at all times to work reliably. I have more remotes than I have rooms and STILL can't find remotes in the Living room because my kids have 4 remotes in the Study....and 3 more are stuck in or under the couches

Downside of base locked remote is that you can't move remotes around, and bluetooth generally has limited range (though it's been increasing with new iterations and I don't know which version they're using). That isn't saying one is better choice than the other - but there are downsides to the idea.

Means nothing about the need to update the system to get HE going really: the release version isn't even accurate to begin with. Beta HE which is the same version that was released (xx706039) worked without system update. The two things were just released at the same time so the Feb 27 release of HE is what fixes the connection issue, and as mentioned that build number isn't even accurate (it's xx705920)

Custom build doesn't mean it isn't OEM

That's how I understand it.

I've seen this a handful of times: this seems to occur when a zone times out (ie playing a playlist, or airplay and device leaves, Spotify and it gets disconnected. Somehow the timeout isn't shutting the zone down in the background, eventhough interface says it's off. As I've seen it only a few times, getting any logs in to C4 hasn't happened on my side yet: not sure if they are aware of any bug about it.

Yes I said MyQ versions (which was 2013) - before that chamberlain (and sub brands) were like any other brand, standard relays. For awhile, early MyQ doors would still react to a relay closures (essentially shorts of the data connection) but it would reset any of their fancy wall units (that displayed date and time) and if you had 'other' items attached (i.e. external lights) they wouldn't react at all or do funky stuff.

It never was the right way of doing it on MyQ openers as it's causing a reset - those connections are NOT standard relay contacts, they're data connections. I think it stopped working fairly early on because it was damaging the units and/or properly wired buttons as many were 'doing it anyway' and using cheap buttons (this isn't even really relating to C4 or other control systems I think)

Heh. You have a programming in place that IF timer is running, AND IF timer is not running. That'll never happen. You are overly complicating your whole setup. Security light driver is easiest but requires dealer. All you want to program is: WHEN motion senses motion START timer {set lights as desired with IF time is/else} Leave everything else out of there (START timer also RESETS timer) Then WHEN timer expires turn off lights

We mostly use GreenAudio but I'd be surprised if you'd find it anywhere for sale. As you're limited to 1080p there's honestly a lot of cheap options out there that should do fine

You're right on the money. I suspect you're LIKELY right in that the port is failing, and yes you can just get a hdbaseT transmitter/receiver set and use the MATCHING HDMI out instead, and nothing needs changing form a system perspective.