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RSouthern

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    Control4 End User

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  1. I have a lot of these old dimmer switches, both new (~10) and used (~20) from my system (all in white), a number of the 2 and 6 button switches and an HC300 with the standard remote. I've moved to SmartThings (I like DIY) since I lost one of the HC200s from the system and I finally got tired of trying to maintain an old system and it was too expensive to upgrade to the new firmware (needs new hardware). So it's time to sell of this hardware. Let me know if you want to buy it all or just parts. They are all from the 1.7 days, I never moved to 1.8. thanks -Richard
  2. That's the one I ordered and it works perfectly. My upstairs Hc-200 system is back online again. This PS from Amazon (listed for Cisco/Avaya phones) is the exact match by part number/output and vendor. thanks all!
  3. Guys, Sorry for digging up this old thread but I think my upstairs HC200 power brick just packed it in too. When the HC200 is plugged in the IR buds flash about once a second, there are no lights on the HC200 itself. It was working fine this morning and we haven't had any power outages or anything that would trip a UPS over/under-voltage circuit (they all stayed quiet all day). I'm thinking/hoping this is a power brick failure. It's an older HC200. I've had it since they first started shipping. I don't have another supply to check with as my other C4 controller is an HC300. I'm in San Jose. Are there any dealers here who can RMA or sell me a replacement supply. I bought the original system from Magnolia and the shop I worked with closed about 2 years ago. thanks -Richard
  4. How's the LED bulb holding up with the standard C4 dimmer? With the pending ban on 100W incandescent bulbs (already happening here in California) I'd like to know if the LED bulbs meet their advertised life expectancy. I had a CFL on a standard C4 dimmer with the ramp time set to 0 and the upper level set to 100% (tried to make it act like a switch) and the CFL burned out after a few months. I guess it could have been a bad bulb, but at $40 a shot for LEDs, I don't want to spend a lot of $$$ finding out. thanks -Richard
  5. We have a few of the 6 button keypads in the house already, to control lighting scenes, but my wife isn't too happy with them and the areas where the existing switches are don't really work well for multi-function switches. There also the problem with the 6 button, where the buttons are too small and don't have any tactile differentiation, so it's easy to hit the wrong switch. I think I just want it to have these locations look/act like a regular (old-school) light switches. So it is possible then, even if it is a hassle? What are the challenges with doing it with the dimmers? I assume the installer will need to program the dimmers to somehow not control the load directly or bind them to whichever is the "master switch", right? Also, aren't the older version 2 button switches impossible to find? Everything dealers seem to have is the newer version keypads. I'm not ready to swallow the cost to upgrade my entire system to 2.0 since I would probably need to upgrade my remotes and home controllers... have the older HC300 and HC200 controllers and I still have the old rev B remote that the HC300 came with. This could add a lot more cost just to get a few light switches to work. -Richard
  6. OK, I goofed when I purchased some equipment a while ago and I've never gotten around to sorting it out, but I'm trying now. I have a 4 way light (3 switches) and when I was ordering equipment for the install I ordered 3 dimmers... d'uh! Is it possible to use 2 of my dimmers as 2 button keypads, or do I need to purchase 2 button keypads for the 2 other switch positions? thanks in advance -Richard
  7. Guys, I don't think that the power requirement from USB is the problem here (although I could be wrong since I'm not a USB or kernel developer). The problem appears to be that the drive goes into a sleep mode after a period of inactivity and doesn't wake-up correctly. This, in my experience with kernel issues in BSD, is a driver problem in the kernel (linux I believe). If there was a power supply related problem I would expect that the drive wouldn't spin up correctly when plugged in since that's going to be the time with the heaviest power draw from the drive. Un-plugging and re-plugging the HDD corrects to problem, so it's a drive access or detection related issue when the drive is asleep which generates an error and marks the volume unusable. An instrumented kernel image would identify the problem quickly if the C4 development team was interested in solving this. In any case, I've switched to a 16GB memory stick and remove the Seagate 320G expansion drive and it seems to be working more reliably now. It sucks that I can't have more music available and am limited to thumb drives, but I will live with it for now since there's not a lot of other options with locally attached drives
  8. FYI, it's the Seagate Expansion Portable Drive, 320GB. Was ~$50 at Frys Electronics, they had the 500GB version for ~$65 yesterday.
  9. The Seagate Expansion drive doesn't have any utility for disabling sleep mode on this drive, at least nothing included on the drive itself. That being said, having a sleep mode for these small notebook grade HDDs is very desirable since keeping the drive rotating the entire time can lead to man problems. 2.5" drives, even the "high availability" units from some of the vendors are not designed to be online 24x7 (the company I work for had a lot of problems with these small drives a few years ago and we had to modify our kernel to handle sleep mode better and avoid over use of the drive) I've been able to confirm that by accessing the (sleeping) USB attached HDD through the file share first (using a Windows 7 PC/notebook), the HC300 doesn't have any problems with accessing the files afterward, so it's definitely the HC300's kernel timing out the drive when trying to access the volume while it's asleep. this is on 1.7.4. Hopefully RyanE or a dealer will raise a bug report on this behavior. -Richard
  10. As a follow-up to the USB powered HDD question, there is a problem, but not what I was expecting. The drive works well until it goes to sleep (power save mode?), then all subsequent read attempts fail. If I unplug and replug it (USB port) then it wakes up (I can feel the drive spin up and vibrate while running). Once it's awake there is no problem. The HC300 shares the volume nicely too. I haven't tried accessing the drive through the drive share when it's asleep, I'll try that later, but for now I consider this a partial success, but unreliable. There must be something in the way that the HC300 attempts to read from the USB port that makes the drive fail to wake up correctly or the OS marks the drive offline. There should be a way in the linux kernel (or whatever it runs) to add a retry or delay in the read, but I'm not enough of a hacker to know what options are user accessable. Maybe this is something that a dealer can pass along to C4's support/development team. -Richard
  11. I'd be interested to see it, sure, but I think that with my scheduler containing all the programming for the lighting levels for any given time block, I can check state and slowly ramp up (or down depending on the time, but I'm going to start with up) those lights that are on, to the new preset levels when the schedule triggers. I could probably spend the additional time and see if the current light level is set to the preset level from the earlier schedule and choose to only ramp up those lights that hadn't been user adjusted to a different level.
  12. just a thought, but is it "load connected"? It sounds like what you're seeing would happen if the load connected option wasn't selected, it would work like a 2 way switch and not change/switch the actual load (light). You may need a dealer to verify this. -Richard
  13. Agreed, I would not think to put anything with as high of a load as an A/V system on a $50 UPS. In that price range just about every UPS would be overloaded and may shut down when you turn on the high draw items like the panel or amplifier(s), plus run time for such a small UPS would be so short it wouldn't make sense. For just about any A/V system (with components) I've seen, you need to be looking at min 1000VA UPSs, and without bringing in an electrician to pull a 20A circuit (which will double the cost again) since most 2000VA+ systems don't use standard home outlets (NEMA 5-15R vs NEMA 5-20P). 1500Va is about as big as you can go with the common 5-15R plug. (BTW I'm not an electrician so these are not verified facts, just my understanding of the requirements!) Have you looked at the small PC/peripheral sized APC UPSs? The 1500VA (and smaller) units under $300 are all USB and line interactive! If you want to get both serial and USB you need to drop ~$500 and that's still for a line interactive unit. If you want online (double conversion - so it's always running off battery and has 0ms clamping time with true sine wave output) you're spending over $1000 - that's hard to swallow if you're putting in a mid level home theater since it's almost as much as the receiver or smaller display panels. That's why I like Tripp-Lite and CyberPower for home theater (although I do have APC UPSs running other devices in other locations). The dual conversion/"online" Tripp-Lite UPS retails for ~$800 and has a longer run time than the comparable APC. CyberPower is even more cost effective, the same size UPS is ~550, but they have a fan so it's not home theater friendly, unless it'slocated in a closet somewhere else with the A/V gear.
  14. Make sure you have 2 things. An event or scheduler to get the weatherbug forecast/alert/current and a separate action to display the pop-up text (under the Home controller you want to have display the info). I use a "show popup" to display the text " weatherBug forecasts->forecast_summary" from a custom button on my navigator screens. I can't help you with displaying on touchscreens but it's probably similar. It's very easy to setup and just works. Make sure you have these 2 items (get the forecasts and display the text) and the correct location information (and Internet connectivity from the Home controller!). You should be able to verify various parts of the install by checking to see if you have the weatherbug text variables listed in the pop-up your home controller(s). If the variables aren't listed then the weatherbug driver probably isn't installed correctly and you'll want your dealer to remove and reinstall the driver. -Richard
  15. This thread sure jumped off topic quickly (and I'm the one responsible!). I guess there's not a lot of knowledge about USB power. Guess I'll need to go find the book on it (or Google) and do my own research for the specs. Hopefully C4 is using a USB chipset that fully supports the spec and can handle the extra power draw from the P/S. In any case, that's good to know there is at least one UPS driver. I just put in a Cyberpower 1500VA UPS there though (USB and IP interface). Hopefully UPS drivers will get more in demand and a wider variety of vendors will be supported, although APC is most common, they are also most expensive and don't have many affordable offerings for a fanless online UPS). Maybe ExtraVegetables (or someone else) will develop a driver for SNMP commands from targeted IP devices so that the C4 can read status of the SOC, line conditions etc (this is only supported with the NIC in APCs I believe, which may be more expensive than an average home owner wants to invest on top of a big UPS) BTW, The ExtraVegetables link has a few errors on the page, specifically the 2 URLs at the bottom of the page for the "Buy now from Dealer Site" and "Dealer Registration", they both point to file:// --> Hopefully their web developer isn't the same person as the C4 driver developer I see that the driver is for serial only, I think APC only has the serial interface on their older or very large UPSs, so this driver may not be ideal for smaller installations where the UPS is USB only. -Richard
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