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zaphod last won the day on January 6

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About zaphod

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    Control4 Wizard

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  1. What is the difference between this Network Agent and the new Unifi driver from Annex 4?
  2. How easy (or not) is it to retrofit the motors in blinds. I have three HD blinds in my MBR that were installed about 13 years ago. On one of them the motor died so the firm I bought it from took it and put in a new motor. The new motor is WAY faster than the old one and much quieter. These are only automated with IR and I only seem able to send move or stop commands, which means that you have to open all the way to close. Any options on making changes?
  3. What about lack of hard transport buttons. For me that is a big con as my main TV watching is sports and I watch delayed and use the Skip and FF buttons constantly to zip through stoppages in play, commercial breaks, and halftime/intermissions.
  4. It actually looks like we now have two drivers for Unifi.
  5. The green blocks are the connectors for the relays. I probably bought the one you were just looking at ;-) Hopefully these are not made redundant in the near future as I just bought a bunch. I prefer the 800 to an EA1 as the EA1 does not have a proper audio output, nor does it have relay connections.
  6. Something else to consider is a Global Cache device if you don't need AV, just relays and serial. Like a GC-100.
  7. A suggestion would be keypad LED programming.
  8. What is the LED wizard? Is it this driver that RyanE posted in 2013? https://untestedhacks.com/2013/led-wizard-driver/ Or is there a newer driver? And is it a paid driver or free with the system?
  9. Can someone point me to a best practice on how to do this. There are a myriad of ways and sometimes I run into troubles. For example, how should you trigger the changing of an LED? When Device Variable Light_State changes? When the Light event Level Changes? And what is the difference between LED Button Events and Color Settings? This is when the keypad button is not bound to a light, but when you just use programming.
  10. I forgot one thing - if your DirecTV box only has HDMI, there are HDMI splitters that remove HDCP. This is even mentioned on the Slingbox web page:
  11. I think there is/are slingbox models with HDMI but some or all of the content may be protected. Therefore you are better off using component. Does your DirecTV box have active component outputs? If so then you wouldn't have any issues. The other advantage of Slingbox is that it works well to placeshift from outside your LAN. FYI - I have a PC that I use to capture cable and OTA TV. I use component cables from my cable boxes to a Hauppauge HD-PVRs connected to my TV. I use DVR software called SageTV that stores the files as unDRM'ed MP4 video files. There are then various ways to watch these files, the easiest being using SageTV extenders at TVs. To watch the files on iOS devices I use AirVideoHD.
  12. What's wrong with continuing to use a slingbox? You can buy them really cheap on ebay. There isn't as much demand for these sorts of devices as the world is moving to a streaming paradigm. So just stream everything from the original source - like Netflix, NBA League Pass, etc. Maybe a better question is what type of content are you trying to stream and is there a better place to store it rather than a satellite box. Do you want live TV, prerecorded TV shows, movies, etc? Are they from regular TV channels, cable channels, etc?
  13. Can you have a specific Spotify playlist, such as "Your Daily Mix 1" play as part of a C4 wakeup routine? Or do you have to initiate playback from a device running Spotify (phone, PC) and playback to a Spotify Connect audio zone?
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