cshepard

New AppleTVs lack Ethernet ports as well.

Triad amps don’t have spring clips…they’re Phoenix connectors.

No. They wouldn’t be able to sell many 70v systems if this were the case. We use outdoor 70v systems from Sonance & Episode. They require a separate amp, so you will only be using an output of your AMS24, and no extra channels from your 8 ohm amps need to be used.

Orro suspended business operations on 10/27/22.

The closer you get, the easier life will be. You can always use a higher end model that has more features & I/O than what you physically have. I have in my notes that the AVR-S970h and the AVR-X2800h have basically identical rear panels, but that’s as far as I got with my list lol.

A Denon AVR-S66H is $500 USD.

You can control them just fine with X series drivers—you just have to ID them via IP address rather than via SDDP. The same works for controlling RX-V series Yamahas using RX-A series drivers by the way.

FWIW: we have a client with ten Neeos. He started out with 4 and liked them so much he added another 6. We have several others with between four & six of them in their systems. All these systems are using all UniFi networks (router, switches, & APs). We rarely have any trouble with them.

For starters the migration wizard is hot garbage. Manually migrating controllers is much smoother.

The Roku driver has a “sub-driver” called Roku channels & selecting that on a GUI will bring up a list of all the apps on that Roku, and selecting one will launch the app.

Receiver should be endpoint and volume control.

You don’t know they’ve stopped making Neeo remotes & they’re end of sale, you don’t know about the new upcoming remotes, and you’re trying to integrate a system designed by a homeowner? I feel sorry for your clients.

Ubiquiti/UniFi is definitely not on a C4 “blacklist”. We have close to 150 Control4 systems running on all-UniFi networking gear (routers, switches, & APs) with zero issues. Episode Response amps will be fine compared to Triad gear.

I integrated an $18k Sub-Zero fridge that had a “party” setting as part of its API, which would tell it to make ice faster. I added that into a Party scene for A/V & lighting.

You need a new A/V guy/Control4 dealer. You do not need 4 EA-1’s for a video wall.

You use the term ‘solution’ very loosely.

No guarantees, but here’s where I’d start. I don’t think C4 differentiates between different types of Sonos devices. So in Composer, don’t bind the Port to the AVR. Set your audio endpoint 1 & audio volume 1 as the Port. (If you have other audio sources in that zone, you’ll probably have to make the Port its own room). Then in programming, when room selected audio device changes, if room selected audio device is Sonos Port, turn on AVR, delay a second, set AVR input to whatever input you’re using for the port.

I haven’t tried it with Sonos specifically, but yes, that’s what audio volume 2 is for. We usually use it when a client adds a local source to a tv or uses a TVs internal streaming apps & there’s no audio path back to the AVR/amp. I assume you want to keep the Sonos audio variable so you can have C4 switch to the correct source and then stay in the Sonos app to navigate music & adjust volume.

I understand very perfectly what you meant…but you are missing the point: OP doesn’t have—and can’t get—Cat to the touchscreen. All he has available is Romex. And there’s no good way, while staying within code, to toss a PoE injector inside the wall.

That’s all fine & good if you can run Cat to the touchscreen location. He has a T3 powered by 120V and can’t magically turn that Romex into Cat.

No, once the programming I mentioned switches to the TV being the video source, that’s what brings up the TV controls.

What input(s) do show it, and which one(s) don’t? It is not a setting that you can enable/disable per input. We were actually looking into this today with a Yamaha RX-V385. Volume indicator shows up on some sources but not a Scientific Atlanta cable box. We believe it’s a HDCP issue with the cable box that’s preventing the volume indicator from passing through.

You need to add the HDMI no control driver as mentioned above. Then in programming, when HDMI control driver is selected as the video source, delay a second or two, then set the TV as the video source. That way you’ll still be able to navigate with the TV’s controls.

To integrate the i6, you need to order the fans with the 0-10V control module, and use a Control4 0-10V dimmer.

Wow you have a lot to say. For future reference, just about every Spectrum box, no matter the model/manufacturer, can be controlled with the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD driver.