videostorm

Sleep is 0xc 0x0034  which translates to 2000052 in QHIDCODE    (conversion detail in the protocol manual, but mainly just hex to dec conversion)
Technically it is Android KEYCODE_POWER in the table.  The Android key code column lists how each HID key is used (or ignored) by Android.

Hi Eric,
The QHIDCODEs are built into our C4 driver (to respond to navigator commands etc).  Are you looking for a specific code that isn't available via navigator?
Our protocol for the QHIDCODE mapping is at: https://www.video-storm.com/manuals/IrUSB_protocol.pdf
The Android reference for the base HID codes is:  https://source.android.com/docs/core/interaction/input/keyboard-devices#hid-keyboard-and-keypad-page-0x07
 

Our NetPlay is another option that is often lower cost and can use existing wiring and simple networks (if that is a concern for some zones).  It is fully integrated in C4 (free drivers) and includes dynamic multiview, PIP, and even graphical overlays at ZERO additional cost (at every TV).
The video is h264 or h265 encoded, which is the same codecs used to encode the source video material.  Very high quality and reasonable bit rates that don't need specialized networks.  
There are a lot of upsides to NetPlay, but the only downsides are the end to end latency is higher (200ms to 700ms depending on the source, always a fixed and synced value) and our switching speed is 1 second or less.  Most competing AV over IP uses non temporal encoding which can have lower latency and faster switching speed (at the cost of much higher bit rates, more complex networking, and in some cases lower quality).  Our phone support can always help if you have questions about the tradeoffs.
NetPlay residential estimator:  https://video-storm.com/residential.php

Uray 1080p has been working great for me and some customers for years.
Havent tried their 4K versions yet.  I don’t really see the need for it.
If it’s a dedicated area like a media room or theater, it should be using dedicated sources for the best quality.

If you decide you don't need the live HDMI video, a SplashTiles system would be:
Portrait capable decoder such as our Lumi TV  (lumi-tv.com) SplashTiles subscription (splash-tiles.com) Free C4 drivers are available for both NetPlay and SplashTiles via our web site (video-storm.com)

Assuming you are looking for live (hdmi) video, then NetPlay is the way to go.  If only video files & cameras, then Splashtiles will work.  NetPlay can also display SplashTiles content so it is basically a superset.
For NetPlay, you will need to use a decoder capable of portrait mode.  Our VRX042 supports portrait mode properly.  A minimum system would be:
NetPlay Manager 1 VRX042 1 or more encoders depending on how many HDMI sources you need In portrait mode, you can show 3 video sources stacked.  You can even mix with other content if you like.  Our layouts are fully configurable.

Hey Everyone,
thank you for your trust in me to help you with your systems over the years!  I have met and helped many great people and enjoy texting with you all.  I have never raised my rates since I started and I contemplated it last year and held off, but now I will need to raise my hourly rate starting 1/1/2024.  
But good news, you can pre-pay for hours at the lower rate if you know you have a project coming up (change will not impact inflight projects).
Thanks again and happy holidays everyone!
Mitch

Just released:   IRUSB version 2
Our popular IRUSB devices have been upgraded!
We have replaced the IR RX sensor (which no one was using) with a PIR (passive infrared) motion sensor.  This new sensor is fully integrated in our C4 driver for configuration, motion state, and motion triggers.
How can you use this?
Hands free switch:  Configure the sensor for very short range (~2ft) and set to toggle mode.  Wave your hand near the sensor to "toggle" the switch -> which can be tied to anything in C4 Short range live object motion sensing:  Configure the sensor for max range (~10ft).  Acts like a standard thermal motion sensor. IRUSBv2 motion sensing can also be used WITHOUT an attached Android device.  It can issue USB HID and / or IR TX commands (from flash memory) directly in response to motion events.  This allows you to plug it into the USB port of generally any device and use the motion trigger to turn it ON / OFF  (or other keyboard/hid commands).  For IR control, just use a USB power supply for IRUSB and position IRUSB over the IR eye of the device to control.  The motion event can fire saved IR codes to turn the device ON/OFF.
Of course, the new version still provides FAST IP control of Android devices.  Nothing has changed here, the same drivers work.  IP GUI control + IR TX extension + PIR motion sensing
IRUSBv2 is the same price as the prior version.  All IRUSB orders will ship the new version starting now!

Just released:   IRUSB version 2
Our popular IRUSB devices have been upgraded!
We have replaced the IR RX sensor (which no one was using) with a PIR (passive infrared) motion sensor.  This new sensor is fully integrated in our C4 driver for configuration, motion state, and motion triggers.
How can you use this?
Hands free switch:  Configure the sensor for very short range (~2ft) and set to toggle mode.  Wave your hand near the sensor to "toggle" the switch -> which can be tied to anything in C4 Short range live object motion sensing:  Configure the sensor for max range (~10ft).  Acts like a standard thermal motion sensor. IRUSBv2 motion sensing can also be used WITHOUT an attached Android device.  It can issue USB HID and / or IR TX commands (from flash memory) directly in response to motion events.  This allows you to plug it into the USB port of generally any device and use the motion trigger to turn it ON / OFF  (or other keyboard/hid commands).  For IR control, just use a USB power supply for IRUSB and position IRUSB over the IR eye of the device to control.  The motion event can fire saved IR codes to turn the device ON/OFF.
Of course, the new version still provides FAST IP control of Android devices.  Nothing has changed here, the same drivers work.  IP GUI control + IR TX extension + PIR motion sensing
IRUSBv2 is the same price as the prior version.  All IRUSB orders will ship the new version starting now!

Thanks have an IRUSB for a FireTV stick. I have a Raspberry Pi4 running my posters. Thanks for suggestions.

I'l shamelessly bump once more time but with it, I share a joke
I was chatting with Optimum support - after my inquiry they said let me get Level 2 support so I am put on hold, level 2 support joins the chat.  after reading my question/issue at hand, they said let me investigate, they come back 2-3 minutes later and say ok, let's troubleshoot.  first question, does your internet work.....  *sigh* - maybe I am rude, but I am short on time, I said this is the wrong chapter of your support guide, the person said please work with us, do you have internet, I asked if they knew what an IR code was and they said they need to check my internet to see if that is why the IR codes arent working.  and to think these people are PAID support....

Please try this version and let me know it is resolves the issue with lighting.  I don't have a way to test lighting.
 
npcloud.c4z

The new driver solved the lighting problem. Thank you!

I think I see what causes this error.  It will be addressed in driver version 7 in a few days.

You should try IRUSB, it has a free driver and work flawlessly with any android box, it’s not cheap but just works and am using it since many years now, I don’t use it with the Telus but someone should try it!

My wife sometimes rolls her eyes at what I've done with the house and even more so when I tell her what I plan to upgrade, remove, etc.  1-2x I got to a point where I thought about ditching the centralized video distribution.  When I told my wife about it she asked "does this mean no more PiP when someone rings the door" or "now when we have our big superbowl party the TVs won't be sync like at my mom's house" I got the hint to keep in the system and expand on it.
There are some good use cases for video distribution, even today with all the streaming boxes and smart tvs out there.  Is it required, no.  Is it a very useful feature once you have it, yes.  It is an expensive luxury, but then again so is most of Control4.

No. It took a (logical) hit when decent, cheap(ish) media streaming devices came out. 'Better' smart TVs do a decent job now but all of them were utter garbage until fairly recently.
I'd rather use an AppleTV than smart TV apps myself ... and I really would not use an AppleTV at all. 😉

Yes this was my comment on the time it takes from boot to be operational with C4 assuming control, I thought I read that u are inserting this delay intentionally waiting for the device to function, I must be wrong!

The new version of our IRUSB app in now in open beta on Google Play.  You can opt in using this link:   https://play.google.com/apps/testing/com.videostorm.irusb
Version 3.0 adds the following:
Support for our upcoming new IRUSB version (USB motion) that replaces the IR RX with a motion sensor.  More details on this coming... Ability to replace the IRUSB launch screen (shown when USB connects) with a custom designed screen of your choice.  The launch screen still must be shown after a boot, but it can now show whatever you want. Ability to auto program your IRUSB / USB Motion devices from the cloud  (common configs and such) Targeted for Android 11 APIs and latest security requirements Please try it out and let us know if you have any issues.  Full rollout in a few weeks.

From an installer perspective - this can change a LOT based on use, room and obviously the person.
I can tell you we have a set of two in one home that are set to trigger as far away as possible, no motion for 30 minutes before turning off in a living area, while bedrooms are set to basically needing them to indeed pretty much walk up to the tv, and stay on for 3 hours no movement.
 
Another client has it to NEVER turn on on motion, TV turns off to full off, and art mode is only on when selected, won't turn off automatically with an auto-shut off at 11PM.
Personally, I would go: widest range, medium turn off time in living spaces (30 to 45 or so minutes); short or medium range (whatever prevents coverage of the bed, but gives decent coverage of a sitting area), short (15 or less minutes) turn off in bedrooms. That way Art stays on when I enter the living rooms, and stays on even if I'm not moving a lot (ie sitting reading a book) but not overly long in case of a walk-though, while not triggering when turning over in bed.
 

Yep, because that's exactly how hundreds of millions of Android users encounter and live with those products. 😆  Whatever you can do with in the Android space that you can't do in the Apple space is irrelevant when the majority of the user base will only ever experience a fully finished, tested, and supported product.
The point we're all trying to get across to you is that there are distinct and (mostly) non-overlapping audiences for these types solutions. Neither one is ever likely to overtake the other. The most frustrated Control4 client in the world would still probably never embrace an open source version and vice versa. The permeability between the two types of experiences just isn't significant enough to allow much influence. 
After this many pages of goofy arguments I'm not sure how many more ways this can be communicated.  

Everyone said cord cutting would be better for the consumer 😀
though cable company hardware is trash, for decades you needed 1 box and got all of your content and life was grand.  now you need apps, subscriptions, different hardware, etc.
 

I would say use Shields instead of Apples, but this actually gives you BETTER quality than ANY video distribution system will.  Direct connection to source always wins.
Distribution is nice for whole-house synchronous if you want that.  Some systems (Netplay 😉) give you some cool popup / overlay / notification stuff in C4 as well.  But everyone should consider streaming devices at the TVs as the baseline solution.  It isn't "going cheap", it is the best quality.

Apple TV’s slapped on the back of each set, wife and most non-weird friends see no difference and use the $$ saved to spend a couple weeks in kauai.

This is a good point.  It is unlikely that all dealers make this clear, and by "making it clear" it would have to be in some paperwork the end customer agrees to and/or signs.  Otherwise actually enforcing these policies (by removing the end users access to the driver) is legally shaky at best.
To be enforceable, there needs to be a EULA attached for the customer detailing this policy.  
Otherwise, just ditch the policy and always make sure the end customer has access to the driver, which is the more customer friendly approach.  IE, if the original dealer is unresponsive proactively issue a new license.  Path of least resistance....
Yes, as a vendor the dealer ARE our customers.  However, the end customer is actually the one who is paying (via the dealer) for the driver.  Both parties need to be served.