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Control4 Dealer
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Everything posted by jberger

  1. Ryan is correct, you can't buy the Baldwin with the correct Zigbee board from anyone except C4 and the radio is not available as a spare part even if the locksmith swears it is. I had a client who learned this the hard way, locksmith told him my locks were wayyy too expensive, but he didn't understand regular baldwin smart locks don't have zigbee pro inside.
  2. You guys are being a little hard on the zektor guys, almost every manufacturer has missed their stated HDMI shipping deadlines over the last 8 months. There have been a lot of changes in the market, plenty of chipset restrictions, floods, tsunami's etc and it's played hell with everyone's schedules. HDBaseT chipsets have not been as easy to build into the chassis in the matrix over 4x4 so it's taking everyone a lot of extra engineering, and testing. (This was a major topic at CEDIA this year).
  3. I believe it is waiting for the next update of the MyHome app, it's been on the list for a while now.
  4. What if they didn't charge for software and enhancements? Would there be a reason to improve the software over time, introduce new features, expand devices? Development costs money, and under the current model, you only pay for the features you use. Would you rather have a higher price on every MyHome license or the price of the intercom built into each touchpanel?
  5. The cover art IS faster the 2nd time it's accessed. It's caching the artwork on first access. My experience is that cover art is MUCH faster on the 800, as is everything involving navigator. I've tried it with the Bluray changer & music, it's much faster on both.
  6. Why would you want to buy an iPad from Control4? There is virtually no margin in the devices for a reseller and if they had it as an SKU it would need to have margin to cover the C4 costs and Dealer Margin too. It's much cheaper as a standalone SKU with mobile nav license.
  7. No, they are on a completely different frequency, I believe DSC is 433mhz which is a long way from 2.4
  8. If you use typical electronic latches from an alarm panel, they will typically fail safe, not fail secure. Which means you doors are unlocked without power. You can install fail secure models but those will be locked without power any typically need to be overridden with a door exit bar which will be a bit out of place on a residential application. The Kwikset models can be operated with both standard key and keypad so you don't get caught out of the loop with power interruptions, it's worth considering. Regarding door thickness, a good locksmith will be able to modify the lock to fit a thicker door. The latch pin than controls the deadbolt can be changed for a longer unit to fit a thicker door. You may also need to extend the mounting hardware to accommodate the thickness. In the US you can order the locks from B&D or Control4. We order from C4 since it is much easier to just add it to an existing order and keep it under than same warranty, etc.
  9. It all depends on how long the batteries sit on the shelf prior to being put in the box, how long it takes the box to get to the states, how long the box sits on the shelf once it's here, etc. All manufacturers face the same issue and the answer is always the same. Put new ones in the remote when you are done testing, before you give it to the client. I'd bet that the OP's issue is DHCP related, not remote batteries. It could also be that you are not waiting long enough for the system to come back on-line when you yank the power connection. Give it at least 20 minutes before you try again and start by pressing the red "4" button to get everything in sync.
  10. Escient and Control4 are currently working together in Europe. No formal integration that I know of on the old Fireball lineup, but D&M resells Control4 under the Escient brand over there. Ever wonder why they updated the sr-250 so say "waiting for network" instead of Control4? Escient is one of those reasons. I sold off my demo Escient gear when starting up with Control4 so I can't comment on how they integrate.
  11. It's much easier to test and troubleshoot with the automation bus co-located with the Control4 gear. You just need a run of 4/22 between the alarm panel and the Control4 gear to attach the Automation Bus stuff, then a straight thru 232 cable to connect between the bus and the controller. The 4 wire method can be extended much further than a standard serial cable and is less susceptible to interference, low voltage, etc.
  12. On the panasonic cameras the "night view" mode will automatically activate when it senses ambient lighting is too low for regular use. For low-lux applications you are better off using a good analog camera with IR illuminator and an IP camera server unless you want to spend $$$ for a good IP camera with low light options.
  13. HC-300 will be a nice replacement. It doesn't have all the inputs and outputs of the MC but you will see quite an increase in speed. Of course you will probably end up needing to replace all of the older remotes since the new HC-300 will ship with 1.8 (zigbee pro) by default. What error do you see on the front of the MC when it boots?
  14. Maybe this will let them get past the chronic backorder issues that have plagued them over the past year. I really like the product but the lack of supported 3rd party integration has hurt and will continue to hurt them over the long term. They also need a video product if they want to survive another 5 years.
  15. The 460 is a nice player with a much faster startup time than the old Sammy. But you have to use the Sony X-bar interface and it can drive you nuts when you just want to watch a movie. Picture and Sound performance is very good, but the menu is aggravating.
  16. Ok. But I don't get this. Sorry. Just one of those philosophical differences I guess... I'll check with my dealer and see what he says... The system's design doesn't lend itself to being a true file server. It's really designed to hold files for local, not network use. That's why trying to mount a video stored on the HC1000 is a problem. The current kernel and architecture doesn't fair well with recursive linking, it wants to serve it local or link to a share that will serve the file. Unless it's a small library, you are better off using a NAS where data protection is in place and you can get the best performance. (ReadyNAS)
  17. I would guess it would be about the same. I have not traced the boards involved, but I'd bet that it's just an autoranging power supply that delivers exactly the same output regardless of the incoming voltage.
  18. Either method will work, but moving forward in the 1.8/2.0 world there is a benefit to having controllers at the TV, instead of several HC's mounted in one location. Zigbee Pro in 1.8 adds the ability to have Zigbee Access Points (ZAP) which improve zigbee performance. Each controller can act as a ZAP, collecting and communicating local zigbee traffic instead of making all devices hop across the mesh back to the single zigbee server in standard Zigbee enviroments. I don't like having all of the displays serviced by one GUI, it's confusing when 2 or more people try to access the GUI at the same time. Regular people (not the folks on this forum) get frustrated when things don't work as expected. So while it might not bother you, it can make for a cranky wife which doesn't make for a happy home. Dedicating a GUI (Controller) per TV usually makes for happier users and better system performance. That being said, it can be overkill in very large homes with few users as they will rarely, if ever, try to all use the system GUI at the exact same time. If you are going to serve a house full of TV's from a matrix switch, or just from a single controller's COP GUI, be prepared for end users to fight over the GUI and the system to be a bit slower than average. Adding an HC1000 in these configurations makes for a MUCH faster end user GUI and overall system.
  19. Sounds like the switches are stuck in "mini-app" mode waiting to be upgraded to Zigbee-pro. You should still be able to use the physical switch to control a light but not any programming associated with the switch since it's not communicating. Where are you located?
  20. Should you upgrade? Only if you want FLAC support or need to run new hardware not supported on 1.7. Otherwise it's just going to slow things down for little to no appreciable improvement. Since you are in SA it's possible they have different rules to Composer Home or Upgrades based on the territory, but in the States you would not be required to buy a new version of Home Controller. Adding a HC1000 would be nice, but it's not required, unless there is some funky programming or application you haven't mentioned here. 1 COP on multiple displays The only issue you will have with COP on multiple TV's is that you can only use the GUI on one display at a time. This can be painful if you have multiple users battling over the GUI, but it will work. I would not use a single HC system in combination with multiple displays, it's just too much for one controller, but when paired with an HC-1000 it can be very fast and useful. Moving forward, you would get more benefit with distributed controllers (HC-200 per TV) since you could have them re-enforce the mesh in 2.0.
  21. Depending on the amperage pulled by the fan, you might need to use a Card Access Heavy Duty power unit rather than a standard C4 switch. The CA unit is rated up to 30 amps.
  22. Did you confirm that all of the IP information was correct on the HC? I'd bet that it didn't update the gateway info and that was the issue. Static assign and IP to the controller, OUTSIDE of the DHCP range of the new router and ensure that the gateway and DNS information is correct on the HC.
  23. I've confirmed with GE Security tech support that the Express model does not support the Superbus Automation module required for connecting with Control4. You will need to swap out the express board for a standard Concord4 board. The rest of the parts can be reused. Then just add the automation module and you can connect via C4.
  24. From the knowledge base on 120v: 16 Channel Amplifier: 10 Amps (16 channels with 8 ohm loads) 1200 watts, 4095.48 BTU/hr, 26 watts when idle 4 Zone Amplifier: 4 Amps (8 channels with 8 ohm loads) 600 watts., 12 watts when idle not in power saving mode. 6 watts in power saving mode
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