AJ_

Nah! I already have a bunch of old C4 switches I pulled when I moved. Will use those with some new Kasa switches. I’m not spending $$$$ on all new C4 switches at this time. Just moved in 40 days ago.

Sad

Oh ok. Would be great if he could shed some light on this. Thanks,@pounce.

That does it. Gonna have to return not-so-smart Kasa switches. At least the 3-way ones.

I guess 4-way. Kasa 3-way switch says 2 locations. I won’t be able to use it in 4-way situations? Do Control4 switches work in 4-way installs?

Wow. No responses. I also need to know if Kasa 3-way switches work in situations with standard 3-way switches installed in more than 2 locations.

Got this done today.

Thanks but I saw that already. If the power to the button is 24v or under it looks like I can simply connect it so the bell relay contact will behave like the push button.

I have a Nutone Chime Bell and just installed the DoorBird D101 today using PoE. The DoorBird has a connector for ‘bell’ and I can’t find any information on how to connect it to the chime bell so the Nutone bell also works when someone rings the doorbell. Do I simply have to connect the wires from the old push button door bell button (red and white) to the ‘bell’ connector? I would think the bell connector slot is simply completing the circuit, just as the push button doorbell button did. Any more information would be helpful and is appreciated. Thanks!

It looks like Kasa Smart switches do not support dimming in 3-way configurations. How are you dimming your 3-way lights?

Bump

Dim lights attached to 3-way switches with TP-Link Looks like TP-Link has switches, 3-way switches and dimmers. Can the dimmers be used to replace 3-way switches so those lights can also be dimmed? Or perhaps switches can be used as dummies along with dimmers for 3-way lights? Thanks, AJ

C4 outlet/outlet dimmers suck! I haven’t seen the new one yet but they are expensive and the plastic is cheap. Is the TP Link this one? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1454259-REG/tp_link_kp200.html

Yeah. That’s what I was thinking. My 26-light chandelier may be an issue but that one doesn’t come on frequently.

Thanks for the responses. I agree on staying away from small shops generally. Anyway, at $150+ per switch, it’s best to just go with C4. I have had issues with larger companies too, like Google, where I bought Google TV and Glass. Google drops projects at times and leaves one dead in the water. Bottom line: stick to a company like C4

Looks like they integrate with SmartThings so that may work. What does 150W LED cover? I see Wemo switches are 400W.

Anyone heard of Orro (getorro.com) for lighting and possible integration with C4?

Not looking for a traveling job. LOL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kinda engineer? Mechanical Engg degree here but don’t remember shit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We have moved into a short term lease in to an apartment complex. It’s an old building and the heating system is old, in-wall and has a knob that has low, medium, high speeds. I’m wondering if anyone has automated this knob. It would be something like August that turns the door know open and closed. Thanks in advance.

Sorry for the delay here. It’s been busy since we are moving next week. Both the HC-300 and the HC-800 are on 2.5.3.

Just says HD-88 on it. It’s a generic brand, probably resold by various companies. All I know is it works. I can send you the driver I have for it. I haven’t been using it lately since all the smart TVs have taken over.

Updated list above.

Some devices have an end of life. They cannot be upgraded past a certain version. Most people here should be able to figure that out, upgrade or downgrade versions, etc. If you are interested in specific hardware, let me know and I’ll dig deeper into the versions. Thanks, AJ

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