outmotoring

RESOLVED after 8 reboots and somehow getting new firmware loaded and re adding all of the APs!

I am looking for some help with a Ubiquiti network issue and willing to pay for remote assistance to get it resolved. My Dream Machine Pro seems to be not working correctly and may be related to a recent operating system update along with 6 APs not being updated at the same time and or other possible issues including hardware issues. I'm on fiber and the modem is working fine. Located in Knoxville TN but ideally could pay someone to login remotely during the day and or wait until this evening when I am home to talk through troubleshooting steps over the phone, etc.

I have 6 groups of shades synced with C4 via a Bond unit and all was well until I unplugged a single shade in ONE group to replace a motor and now the whole group has a new device ID in the Bond driver. I don't recall but maybe I had to delete that group in Bond to re add the new single shade. I can control them within the Bond app but in C4 there is a different Blind ID for that group vs the Blind ID in the Bond app but neither will allow me to change it to match so the daily open and close commands as well as direct commands within C4 will work. Does anyone know how to get this group to sync again and or how to update the Blind ID (in C4)or Device ID (in Bond app)

I have a second building on my property with 2 AC units and I would like to use C4 Thermostats for both units. The building does have a few Ubiquiti AP's as well as a network switch that allow us to share internet via a buried fiber cable (along with fiber to cat baluns) which is where the 2 AP's are connected from. There are no other C4 items in this other building. What is required to allow me to add 2 thermostats over there? I assume I will at least need a EA1 (which I have available). While I have some extra C4 dimmers and switches I had not planned on using them there but may need to to assist with the Zigbee mesh network. If the EA1 mounted on a wall near my main network stuff which is about 15' from the wall mounted thermostat 1 and maybe 25' from thermostat 2 (upstairs) will it be strong enough to allow the Zigbee mesh? If not do I need to assume at least adding some other zigbee extenders (?? aside from light switches?) and if so what are my options? I would need to make the EA1 a Zigbee controller #2 just for this property, correct?

SOLD/decided to keep. i thought I was going to expand my system and have had it for about 6 months and ended up not needing it. Was installed and programmed at one point. $190 shipped to the USA. Includes power cord and antenna.

Ok, so multiple issues caused the problems I was having. A storm took out 12 ports on a switch and 8 on a POE switch, the UDM reset caused all APs to default to Mesh mode, 2 cat6 terminations were bad, the recently added fiber converter had the SC inputs switched on one side and the app defaulted to adopting APs as stand alone / mesh / wireless and NOT the hardwired connection!! what a mess!! thanks to everyone for adding suggestions and for Nick who also called and offered some great suggestions!!

Ok, after a phone call with Nick (thank you!!!) I found that when using the ubiquiti app to add APs it can cause issues which appears to be the case. After using the desktop version to reset all of the APs things are better (I also upgraded a bunch of old cat6 cables and the fiber to cat converters). In the desktop app it shows how each AP is connected and while all of them are hardwired it shows 4 as being connected to other APs which should not be happening. Does anyone know how to force a AP to NOT connect wireless to another AP or is this ok? BTW this ‘connected’ column in the ‘ ‘Devices’ tab is new as I recall.

It seems to be that every few hours one or more of the APs isolate and re adopt and in that process it causes 1 or more to do the same so just when I think it’s all fixed my kids complain that the wifi sucks. Plus what is super odd is that in a location I’ve always had great signal I now don’t even though the APs have not moved and my phone is connecting to the same AP. I’m stumped.

No sonos gear is on the network-

It’s not affecting C4 aside from occasional issues when some APs are disconnected but I will start by unplugging the outdoor mesh AP as it has yet to have bay clients after 2 weeks and 2 factory resets, etc

If Ari knows Uniquiti stuff that would be awesome as I’ve worked with him before on my C4 stuff with great results.

I’m looking to pay someone who specializes in setting or troubleshooting ubiquiti equipment. Up until a few weeks all was well and something caused my UDM pro to require a complete reboot and ever since then my network of 5 UAP-AC-LR waps and 2 outdoor mesh units to give me nonstop issues with them dropping out, isolating themselves, reconnecting and all sorts of insanity. Around the same time I extended my network to another building 500’ away via a buried fiber line, and 2 converters. The other buildings APs have been up and down and wireless TCL tvs are connecting to APs at the main building instead of the one 15’ away. I’m in over my head and have tried adjusting the channels of all of the APs, switched firmware back to 5.43.56 and removed a few APs as well as bought 2 new ones to see if that was the issue. located in Knoxville TN but remote / phone based consulting would be doable if in the evenings EST.

Check out the MBLs' http://www.mbl-northamerica.com/mbl-101-e-mk-ii/ Gallo Strada: https://galloacoustics.com/usa/strada-2/ Martin Logan 11a or others in the same range: https://www.martinlogan.com/en/product/impression-esl-11a Or Ferguson Hill: https://www.fergusonhill.co.uk/fhoo1/

I don’t think there is a lens memory specific program option, so what I did was create 2 installation mode settings and the default 1st one I set the lens memory in the projector to 2.35 and saved it and then went to installation mode 2 and set the lens to 16x9 and saved it. I was not able to ONLY set the lens memory and link it in the C4 custom programming but this option worked for me since there are no discrete codes for lens memory and I did not find lens memory in the list.

It's actually not listed as Lens Memory commands but rather it is the User Settings or Installation Mode (I am pretty sure it is this one) I recall. I have my 2 screen sizes setup and saved along with other settings in 2 of those Installation Mode settings and on my newest projector there are 10 but as I recall there were not that many on previous models plus I don't think C4 had that many listed.

It was over in the programming tab as I recall and I linked the custom buttons on the left tab to the User 1 or one of those custom command titles on the right tab area.

I was able to associate the 3 custom command buttons with device specific commands which already had the (10) installation modes listed so I made mode 1 2.35 x1 and mode 2 16x9. Once I have some content in another format such as 2.4x1 I will assign it to the 3rd. Thanks for the great help everyone!

On my previous X35 JVC projector there were discrete IR commands for a few lens memory settings and I was able to link them to the 3 custom buttons on the C4 remote (1,2,3 dots under the C4 button). Then I bought a RS400U- also IR controlled and was able to carry over the OLD IR codes from that PJ to the RS400, however I now have a IP controlled NX5 so I can't use the old IR commands. Now I can't think of a way to swap between 3 different lens memory settings quickly on the C4 remote. The new projector requires you to push the "lens memory" button and then scroll up or down to select (up to 10) lens memory settings. Not ideal but it works. For example on my JCW Nx5 I have the #1 lens memory setting as a 2.35:1 ratio and the #2 is 16x9 and #3 is 2.4:1 (each assigned to one of 3 custom buttons). It used to be one click with IR. I would love to have this lens memory feature be a quick single button function as my kids are often in the theater and may need to switch screen ratios and currently the only way to do it requires switching into the mode of controlling the projector menu directly plus a few clicks to then bring up the lens memory pop up and change the lens control setting. I would rather not use the separate remote for the JVC at all. I may be able to program JUST the pop up menu for the lens memory to one of the custom buttons and scroll to select which one to use but I would love to have it be just a single click on one of the C4 remote buttons. Does anyone know of a way to make this work with the custom buttons on the C4 remote with a IP controlled PJ?

Thank you all for the great info. I will research both and see how it goes.

Thanks Ari! I will research that. I wonder if I could use the wireless sensors to put on the freezer door and have it trigger a warning if the door was left open after a fixed amount of time. Also, I need to research a bit more what the Verizon connection/feature would offer (we use Verizon phones). I think this mean I would get / pay for another Verizon account just for the alarm to use to communicate with me? Ideally I would use to the linked connection with C4 to send alerts via 4site, etc? https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/qolsys-iqp2pk10-vz

I have a older GE Interlogix Concord4 (PRE C4 integration serial number) panel, 3 wired door sensors, 2 wired motions, 2 smoke detectors, 2 wireless door sensors and a siren along with 2 GE interlogix Key Pads. I would like to pull the panel and keypads and replace the whole alarm system as I have C4 along with 6 T3 In wall touch panels around the house (C4 is running on 3.1 as I recall). I would prefer to have some integration and events triggered as well as notifications as we do with the garage doors. If there was a way to be alerted via C4 (we also have C4 / 4Site) IF a door is open for more than 5 minutes that would be ideal. I do NOT have my system monitored and would likely never need it but would be nice to have some integration with C4 to use the panels for the interface so we can know what is happening with the house when we are out (or on vacation). We live in a VERY safe and remote place with limited access so we don't necessarily need an alarm system at all but it would be nice to have some triggers for lighting, garage door closing, motion detection, etc. Ideally I would like to add a few water leak detection sensors as well as we have had the freezer left open a few times over the last 5 years which ended in many hundreds of $$$ of wasted food (one time it was while we were at the beach for the full week and we lost 250lbs of beef that we had just put in the garage freezer). Coming home that after a week at the beach was a smell that I never want to smell again. So, the simplest option may be to plug the existing (and new water / leak sensors) sensors into the C4 IO we have rack mounted and take the time to create events or whatever to trigger various messages or alerts but that may be a bit too complex- but doable. Ideally I could replace that old GE panel with something newer and use ONLY (or ideally only) the C4 touch panels for the interface and from there do some tweaking to the programming to get certain events or messages about doors being open or even water leak detection with the fridge/freezer/bathrooms, etc. So, does anyone have any ideal options here such as Clare from SnapOne, DSC Neo, or anything else? Do all of these REQUIRE using their proprietary key pads/touch panels? I don't mind having 1 installed but ideally I want to use the T3 touch panels as there is less wall clutter that way. I'm open to ideas and would also prefer to do the physical install myself and pay a remote programmer as needed to do the integration with C4.

You can confirm it's not the amp or signal chain by hooking up a known good speaker directly to the same output on the amp and confirm the speaker sounds good or not. If it sounds fine with the extra test speaker just replace the single blown speaker or buy a new pair with similar specs if those are not available.

This seems to have fixed itself after my Ubiquiti USG failed a few weeks ago and I replaced it with the Dream Machine....so it must have been related to a setting with the DNS, IP, or other random issue. I've now been trouble free and both left and right speakers in all locations of the house are working great!

All but the USG will adopt- I think the USG is fried even it it shows up in the menu- even after a factory reset. I ordered a new one and will see what happens.

Will followup via text. Thanks Ari! I did not know you were Ubiquiti savvy.