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jesseasmith last won the day on December 8 2017

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About jesseasmith

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    Control4 End User
  • Birthday November 26

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    Dallas, TX

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  1. Hi

    First thanks for posting and making apple tv ir drivers available.

    I'm running 2.10.5 version of composer.

    Apple TV Ip driver ver 107 not able to pair, yes I did follow the instructions, ip static etc.

    So using old IR ver 0 on apple TV4k, navigation works but no stop or play works.

    tried your posted drivers, IR flashes but no response from Apple TV.

    tried your Custom and HC versions, i guess HC is for HC-800?

    thanks for your help


  2. Is your "Variable = Comments" just a dummy variable that you use to put comments into your programming to help visualize/understand what the script is doing? If so, this is genius, and I can't believe I've never thought of that. I sometimes have to write out my log on a document, to ensure I'm tracking my logic correctly. This would also be a great composer improvement to "insert comment" to the programming window.
  3. The sound quality is not a direct correlation to the bitrate of the music. While the bitrate on normal quality music won't change based on whether it's coming out of an HC-250/800 or EA1/3/5, the sound quality is still drastically improved on the EA series processors due to the much higher quality companents in them. The EA series procesors also have an EQ and loudness mode options, which you an use to fine-tune your audio experience. Older controllers like HC200/300/500 are not compatible with the newer version of digital media, and aside from limiting your project to 2.9.1, will severly limit your digital media experience.
  4. As thecodeman stated the actual formats that J+P Supports. This rule basically follows whatever video formats would utilize 10.2Gbps or less in a straight HDMI world. Also, while J+P is compatible with some formats, like 4K60, it will downconvert to 30 frames per second and doesn't look very good. This becomes a problem with most 4K sources on the market, which typically utilize 60 frames/sec for their 4K content. 4K30 does not look good on most modern 4K and HDR systems. Even though you can set Roku/Apple TV to 30 frames, the motion is very jittery and is not smooth at all.
  5. $1200 retail for four zone/eight channel amp. $1700 retail for 8 zone/16 channel amp. Remember, these amps are rated at 100 watts per channel, and are stable below 4 ohms, all channels driven. It's a beast of an amp. (For comparison, the Control4 Power amp was $1100 for the four zone, and $1400 for eight zone amps, retail cost.)
  6. Sounds like a bad ethernet port. How is Netplay in the mix? I'm not super familiar with Netplay, but is it an "App" on the TV, or is it another physical module behind the TV? I know it is responsible for handling IP video, and maybe it could be too chatty and causing the data port to stop responding after a while?
  7. Known issues. Even the replacement units had bad power supplies. Cut your losses and put in Triad Amps. Likely, the remaining power amps will fail over the next 12 months as well. Not much you can do. I've had several clients replace 2-3 times before. The first times they failed, Control4 didn't know what was causing the issue. Then by the time they started seeing the pattern, they had sent replacements already, and identified the bad power supply issues. Work with your dealer, and try to get them to credit the amp out for the new Triad amps. They sound infinitely better, and you won't have issues with the power supplies and failures any more. Bonus, they're also 1U so you'll save some rack space! Even if it's a couple hundred $$ to upgrade to the Triad's, it's worth it IMO, due to reliability and sound quality improvement. It's a massive improvement.
  8. This could be the TV in DEMO mode. Look up your model number online, and view instructions on how to disable DEMO mode.
  9. The bus failure on the concord4 is because the automation module is learned into the Concord4, but is not communicating with the serial device (Control4 controller). You can delete the automation module from programming until you get RS232 working. (8 - Dealer Code - 00, System Programming, scroll up three times to Accessories, select Bus Device, Scroll Down to Bus Device 2 and press the D button on your keypad.) (Later, you can easily re-learn the device by pressing 8-dealer code-01 to auto-learn all devices on the keypad bus. If my memory serves me correct, you have to use a straight thru cable, not a null-modem on the automation module. This is likely your problem. (If you're not sure what kind of cable you have, just swap pins 2/3.)
  10. All-in-one soundbars don't sound great, period. You're compromising on a lot with any kind of unit. However, the Sony HT5000 soundbar is pretty killer for the price. Certified IP control, Dolby Atmos, Wireless Sub, etc. Pretty easy to use and set up as well. Most of the Sony soundbars have IP control, which is really nice. Outside of that, there are a TON of very nice, high performance passive soundbars from companies like James Loudspeakers, Triad, and Leon, just to name a few. They range in price from $500 all the way up to $15k, and can be customized to fit your TV and space. This also allows you to use your own processing and amplification, which will blow away any all-in-one units. I love the sound of Triad. They're VERY accurate. James Loudspeaker can play a little louder, but aren't are warm. Triad gets my vote most of the time when integrating. I've been selling Triad's since 2005 for my background with them.
  11. We sell hundreds of XBR series TV's every year, and utilize IP control on a large majority of them and haven't experienced this. It sounds like network hardware issues. Does your network switch show a link light, even when the TV "falls offline"? It could also be a couple other things. Try setting the TV to a static IP address, disable IPv6, and ID the TV via IP, instead of SDDP. See if performance changes then. It *could* be the data port on the TV itself is failing. This would be a much more difficult problem to address. I don't recommend it, but you could use wifi for a while and see if it works that way. We have used wifi for IP control in the past and haven't had issues with it. It just takes a couple seconds longer to turn on when using wifi. If you call Sony, they will ask you to update all your apps and firmwares to the latest version as well. If the port on the TV is dead, I would just switch to RS232 to IR control. The certified drivers support these methods as well. Just make sure to adjust the power-off delay on the certified driver to 5 seconds, instead of the default of 2 seconds, otherwise it won't work properly.
  12. He "could" be running AC Power, and then non-poe ethernet. But yes, overall, POE is best and easiest solution. No risk of death when servicing the unit either.
  13. As other's have posted, jumped the neutral to the load will work. Getting a neutral is your best bet though. Have the electrician run a 14/3 to your fixture.
  14. Issue is likely with EDID and/or deep color. Force resolution to 1080P, with no deep color. This will likely fix the issue. I've seen where some more entry level Marantz/Denon AVR's don't play well with deep color. You will probably notice right now, that when running through the AVR, you get the start-up splash screen of the Blu-ray player, but then once it's fully booted up, then you lose picture. Causes could be firmware updates, an HDMI cable failing, or failure of part of the HDMI video board on any of the devices. Even if the 5V sync power supply for the HDMI ports could be reducing and causing issues.
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