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WholeHomeControl last won the day on May 25

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About WholeHomeControl

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    Control4 End User

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  1. SR-250 is an old model. Were the remotes actually SR -260s and you were using the incorrect driver?
  2. Well, son of a gun. I was able to go to the HomeBridge Web GUI and control my first Control4 light! Spectacular! Now, I am trying to associate my iPhone with the HomeBridge , but the HomeBridge is not listed as an accessory from the Home app on my iPhone. I am certain they are on the same network, as I can access the HomeBridge Web interface from the iPhone. I know this part of the solution is outside the scope of C4/Varietas and I will seek elsewhere for support, but any thoughts on this would be much appreciated! UPDATE: rebooted computer running HomeBridge and we are now working end to end. Very exciting. Looking forward to taking this integration through its paces!
  3. OK, here's where I'm at: 1. Homebridge is installed and running on Windows with Varietas plugin. 2. Varietas driver is installed and running on my COntrol4 3.1.3 project (Server Status is "Running") 3. I output JSON from the driver and updated the Homebridge config file. I then restarted Homebridge, and at that point, the "Appliance IP" property in the driver populated. But I am unsure how to proceed?
  4. Hi Joshua - I am a dealer keen to evaluate this driver. The instructions say there is a 48 hour trial period, but I installed the driver and immediately received this error: (Error)Driver license is invalid and the 48 hour free trial has expired. Please advise. Thanks, Cliff
  5. Regarding the right source not being selected when first powered on, this sounds like the power on delay is not long enough. If you look at the receiver when you try to watch a source from an off state, you should see two flashes. The first flash is to power on the unit, and the second flash is to set the source. If the second flash occurs before the unit is fully powered on, the command being flashed will not be registered, and so the unit will not switch to the correct source. The solution would be to increase the power on delay.
  6. Do you mean Garadget, or is there another option I'm not aware of?
  7. Sorry, to be clear, once you have the binding set, you simply set the CURRENT_VOLUME room variable for the hidden room. You might want to trigger this code the moment the volume drops: And, the final piece would be to set the volume on project boot: It's not too pretty, but I think it will solve the problem.
  8. I’ve seen this issue as well and don’t have a fix. As a workaround, however, this might help: Set the EA-3 audio output as the audio end point for a hidden room. Now, you have a way programmatically to get that volume level back up to 100% (ie custom button first plays EA3 source in room and then set volume to 100%. Then turn off room.)
  9. This post confuses me The OP’s picture DOES show that he was using the controller power, so not sure what the first paragraph means. Also, your prescribed wiring looks to be effectively the same as what the OP did. At the end of the day, when the relay is closed, 12V wires to trigger + and GND wires to trigger - The only difference is which leg the relay shorts to close the circuit, which shouldn’t matter.
  10. Suppose there were a driver that synced two rooms. How would you want this to work exactly? Would you want there to be a "master" room and a "slave" room, and the slave room always follows the master media source and volume? Should the slave room always turn on when the master turns on? I've been thinking of writing a freely available driver for something like this, and if you can describe what you want perhaps I will take a shot at it.
  11. This is the part I am uncertain of. Are you saying that with 12V applied to the amp, the amp will turn off, but when 12V is removed the amp will turn on? I have only worked with a small selection of amplifiers, but this seems backwards to me. Typically, you would apply 12V to turn the amp on, and without the 12V applied the amp would be off. What model amplifier are you using?
  12. I am not certain about a few things you've written, but here's what I would do: 1. First, I would simply ensure that you have proper control of the relay. Set your multimeter to test for continuity, and then put the probes on COM and NC. Can you successfully create and break continuity now by controlling the relay from Composer? If not, this is where you need to focus. 2. Next, wire up per your original diagram but without connecting to the amp, as follows: Now test voltage between the red and black wires. Can you toggle between 12V and 0V by controlling the relay from Composer? 3. If you get this far, then everything on the Control4 side is correct and now it's just question of whether your amp is responding to the voltage correctly.
  13. What driver are you using for Apple TV and exactly what button presses on the remote are you using to trigger play, stop and pause? If you are using the SELECT button for play, for example, I do not believe this would register as a play event.
  14. Create a variable of type Number (i.e. TARGET_VOLUME) When the volume in room B changes, assign B's CURRENT_VOLUME to that variable. (Include a small delay here.) Perform the desired adjustment on that variable (i.e. TARGET_VOLUME = TARGET_VOLUME - 5) Set the CURRENT_VOLUME in room A to the new value.
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