WholeHomeControl

Depending on the specific drivers used, you might be able to set the power management to "use macros" and then put delays in the On macro.

Suppose you want a keypad button in Control4 that turns on your bathroom light and starts playing a news update on your Echo. You cannot do the second part of this scenario within C4; you need C4 to tell Alexa to do that thing.

The Alexa driver lets you have Alexa activate C4 programming. However, what about if you wanted C4 to activate an Alexa routine? That's where the virtual buttons come in.

There is no difference. Actually, the term “balun” is not technically correct, as it implies a conversion from a balanced to unbalanced signal, which does not happen with HDMI extenders. However, it is very common to use the term balun when referring to extenders.

If you’ve been having reliability issues, try AV Pro HDMI extenders. They are pricey, but seem to be the most reliable performers on the market.

Unless I misunderstand, the Echo Dot and other no control drivers still present the transport/remote screen in Navigator.

I don't believe this is quite right. If you are watching a video source and then switch to music, the video selection change event will trigger and cause the keypad LEDs to turn off, which is not what you want. I suggest installing the Room control driver and using the event "Entered Watch Mode".

If the alarm system has a Control4 driver - and there are many that do - then you can control and monitor the alarm system through Control4 (via the GUI and/or programmatically.)

Are both your Satellite and DVD directly connected to your TV? Is there an AVR or soundbar involved? Was everything work find for a while and then suddenly stopped working? When did the DVD volume last work? Any changes made to your system since then?

The Control4 amps are dumb (ie there is no communication with the amp through drivers.) Any system design that uses a C4 amp (not to be confused with a matrix amp) can instead use any other dumb amp with RCA inputs and suitable specs to drive your speakers.

The HC-800 is no longer available (unless you purchase one used.) In the new controller lineup, you would want to look at the EA-3 or EA-5. What version of Director are you running? The latest version (3.1.3) does not support the HC-250. If you can describe your current system and upgrade goals, you can gather guidance on your upgrade options

For the AVR, if your dealer likes Denon then it would be good to stay where they’re comfortable. I don’t sell Denon (I lean to Sony for AVRs), but for what you describe I would look at the X1600H (or perhaps the X2600H for the better video processing/options.) I’m just thinking that you don’t need any more channels/zones; you don’t need the extra HDMI output; and you don’t need lots of power, etc, for a room with lousy acoustics. So, why trade up from there? Maybe ask your dealer what you’d be missing with that model.

Just to be sure, if I understand correctly, you already have the AVRX4500. If not, you could certainly go with a more modest unit to save some bucks.

Read above my statement in the response I was quoting. The proposed configuration I was was responding to involved a single connection from the Triad. If you read my whole post, the only thing you actually are disagreeing with is my statement that it may not work reliably with two separate feeds. I've avoided implementing things this way so cannot say from experience that it would be unreliable. However, I can say that the AV pathing functions, though much improved in the 3.x redo, have been a bit of a weak link in the system. So, I would advise against pushing things this way. It's a form of double matrixing (even with the path setter driver.)

The explanation was this: if you have a single connection from the Triad to the Denon, then you cannot simultaneously play two separate sources through the Triad to the two zones connected to the Denon. This is categorically true. It's just simple physics!