Jump to content


c4Forums Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ed94582

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I just checked the thermostat that isn't working and yes there is a wire attached to the TS/C terminal. Thanks.
  2. Thanks -- i just checked and all 4 of the thermostats all are in disable mode for power stealing. 2 of the them have the original battery and still working after 10 years. . 2 of them I changed when the LCD screen went out a few weeks ago. the 2 with the original battery and one of the one where i changed the battery are working fine. Just the one that i mentioned will work for about 2 days but then power off and not turn on again. It's also the only one with the battery icon and BATT displayed on the LCD. So I assume whatever that is supposed to signal -- that is the issue etc. Any idea what the BATT means?
  3. Thanks. Are you saying that i shouldn't have removed the old CR123A battery and replaced it with a new one?
  4. Thanks I will try cleaning the contacts -- the power stealing has been on disable and I haven't touched it. All i did was to remove the old CR123A battery and insert a new CR123A battery where it says insert battery etc. Just wondering what the icon on the LCD with the BATT letters is supposed to signify?
  5. Hi, I have 4 C4 Thermostats in C4 in the house all about 10 years old and installed new when I bought the house. Recently one of the Thermostats died -- Thermostat issue model CCZ-T1-W -- I replaced battery and it will go back online but will only last about 2 days. The one thing that I noticed is that now this particular thermostat will display the battery icon with the letters "BATT" while none of the working thermostats display or ever displayed this icon. Does that mean some type of internal battery issue or some other issue? Any help or ideas are much appreciated! Thanks!
  6. Before I reboot the 250 -- what does this mean and is there something else I should do vs just reboot it? Thanks!
  7. Or can it be controlled via IP? I know the PS3 remote is Bluetooth and not IR etc.
  8. I asked a broader question in a thread about the 8 zone amp -- but this is probably a better place for it. Specifically if you connected an Hc-800 to the 16 channel amp -- using RCA cables -- is there a significant drop off in sound quality vs connecting it via the Digital Coax out on the HC-800 and then using some type of cheap converter such as this one: http://a.co/8nr8ZBd to connect from the HC-800 to the 16 ch amp vs just using RCA cables for both the HC-800 and the 16 channel amp. My 16 channel amp is currently only feeding the in-ceiling speakers in 5 rooms and a pair of outdoor speakers in my backyard. For more serious listening I have dedicated AVRs in 3 of the other rooms.
  9. I also have one of these 16 channel amps -- currently connected to my Hc-250. If I connect an Hc-800 -in addition to using Shairbridge - given the HC-800 has multiple audio outputs (1 digital and 2 analog?) using just the HC-800 to multiple zones. (For example -- Pandora in some of the rooms, Apple Music vis Shairbridge in other rooms, and AAC files on a USB stick to other rooms?) Also for just streaming music would the quality increase materially if I use the Digital output with some type cheap DAC (don't listen to in house audio through the in-ceiling speakers (low end Klipsch) or just use RCA cables for just the 2 analog connections). Real world case is I would probably ever just use two sources at the same time. Thanks in advance.
  10. Just an update on this --- Comcast turned off Wifi on their X3 gateway and I plugged in my own router. It took a day or two after that -- but is now working great. Haven't had to reboot for that last few weeks. Not sure if there is a direct cause and effect -- but thought I would share my experience...
  11. It went offline this morning and I went to reboot the controller again -- just as I was about the reboot it --but decided to go into Composer HE -- the HC-250 didn't appear there so I refreshed in Composer and it eventually came online -- is it because my HC-250 is overworked. I did notice CPU at about 90-95% but not sure if that is normal. Any ideas? Thanks!
  12. Hi, I have a HC-250 (running director) and 3 HC-300 in 3 separate rooms running 2.8.2. The HC-250 went offline yesterday (couldn't connect to it in Composer HE, couldn't connect via the iPhone app, or via remote controls) I physically rebooted the controller yesterday by unplugging and plugging it back in and everything came back online and was working properly but then it looks like it everything is now unresponsive again. I would hate to have to keep rebooting the controller especially since I did it less than 24 hours ago. The controller is connected to my router via Ethernet -- it's a router provided by Comcast for Xfinity X1 service but perhaps that is causing the issue? Though I never had an issue before and it's the same router. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks!
  13. Thanks. Yes all the devices have been added already and the OSD is already set -- except that its currently defaulting the HDMI 1 on the TV and I need to change it Component 1 on the TV. Currently when I hit the red Control 4 button on the remote -- I need to grab the TV remote and change the input. Anyway -- I will give what you posted a shot using Composer HE and report back if I did it right.
  14. Thanks. I'm running 2.8.2 and have Composer HE 2.8.2 or Composer Pro 2.5.3 -- can i make this change using Composer Pro 2.5.3 if my system is running 2.8.2
  • Create New...