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brucecampbell

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Everything posted by brucecampbell

  1. Great, thanks! Also - should I be considering adding a fuse to protect the controller? Is it possible a relay can short and send 240V along the 12V cable? What sort of fuse and what Amp rating would I use? Pic of relay in use:
  2. Yes Thanks, I was hoping that would be the case. Does the HC800 have a set amp per 12V connection or is there a max amp total for all four connections?
  3. I changed the batteries in my remote and since then all I get is 'Waiting for Network'. I have two other remotes working fine from all rooms. I have tried a controller reboot - no change. I have tried new batteries - no change What next?
  4. Is there any problem with using the same relay connections from my HC800 to run two relay? Can I assume that as long as the voltage drop over two cables does not prevent the relay closing, this will be just fine? I simply have two garden light transformers running independent circuits, each is hooked up to a relay. I don't need independent control, simply want both on and off at the same time. And I have limited connections available on the controller.
  5. What is the Zio and CA1? The control by web looks like a neat option! Thanks
  6. The cat cable is going back to the rack, but I have already used all the contacts and relays on my controller - so either way I will be looking at new hardware. might be cheaper to find specific network devices rather than more C4 gear though??
  7. I have a water pump and a couple of light circuits outside in the garden. I have power and a single cat6 cable to the location. Are there any devices I can connect to C4 via the Cat6 through my home network, which can: 1. act as a switch, perhaps using a relay? - to turn garden lights on/off 2. receive feedback like a contact to tell me if the pump turns off (pump runs 24/7) Are there network devices which I should look at, or should I consider just splitting the Cat6 into 4 pairs of cable to use for 4 contacts or relays? Cheers.
  8. I'm using the IP driver with Apple TV (Gen 3) I have the auto power rooms in use with my lounge My lounge turns on automatically just fine from some apps like You Tube (from my iphone) But I have other apps (such as Spark Sport NZ) which do not force my lounge to turn on automatically. Any ideas why?
  9. Why two sensors? - or are you talking about the second one on a different door? Cheers.
  10. Scottish South African - a rugby man? I'm off to Japan next week which includes the All Black v Springbok game in Yokohama to cap the trip off... I was using this driver, up until it stopped working with 2.9 (I'm avoiding the upgrade as I still need my HC300 for a contact and relay I don't actually recall noticing the speed - which probably means it was working faster then it does now... That would be neat, to essentially have function calls with parameters, it would make programming a bit cleaner for those who want more dynamic functionality.
  11. Can you please provide a link to show me the type of fuses you use. I'm going to move all my 12V supplies from the c4 box to my relays to be external power supplies and would like to install a fuse on each circuit. Do I only need a fuse on the 12V+ wire (from power supply to COM) or do I need a fuse on wire coming from NC too?
  12. How do you find her understanding of your commands? - I take it you have an SA accent?? When ever she misunderstood us, we would try the same command in our best american accent and most often it would work. After changing the language settings, I'm having better success though just speaking though. I would assume leaving a connection open would have all sorts of possible security issues...would be nice if alexa could communicate directly with the c4 box without the need to go via the cloud...
  13. I'd always had trouble with her understanding our Kiwi accent. When I first purchased, they were not available for NZ, so everything was set up as per USA. I've only just noticed I can set her to AUS/NZ, she now has a horrible voice, but does seem to recognize my requests better - especially for adding items to the shopping list.
  14. Thanks Matt - I'm not much of a hardware guy - what DNS settings in particular would I check?
  15. If I ask Alexa to turn off the lights, it take about 3 or 4 seconds of her 'thinking' then the command usually is done. If I then ask her again to do another task, it is done right away. I'm assuming this is some form of delay in connecting to C4 in the first instance. does anyone else have this problem? are there any solutions? Cheers.
  16. Cheers, I'm considering changing the way I run my outdoor lights - I currently run 12V from my rack to all the garden LED's, but had a transformer blow up on the weekend. - I think it may have damaged my PX controllers for my DMX lights too. I might move to an outdoor power supply and control it via a 12v relay instead. not sure why the power supply blew - it was 100Watt and was only running about 40-50Watts of LED. could a short from water ingress on the 12v cables outside cause a power supply to blow?
  17. Are there different types of power supplies built specifically for different jobs? Ie: would there be any problems using an old 12V laptop charger as the power supply for some LED lights - providing the Amp/Wattage is high enough ?? Noting the power supply will be plugged into the mains 240V 24/7 and being drawn upon at times for up to 5 or 6 hours.
  18. Yes - circuit breakers is what I was suggesting when I said circuit board. The best thing you can do here is find a Control 4 Dealer to help you out. There are many on this forum who are happy to work remotely, though sometimes it does help to have someone local who can make house calls. A dealer working remotely could at least take a look and see if your switches are online and offer advice on button clicks for resetting or removing from the zigbee mesh and adding back if necessary.
  19. I do not know what a flashing red light indicates... however if these are switches, they should switch the load no matter how the controller is behaving, so this does sound a bit weird to me. Try cutting power to them from your circuit board and see if they come right when powered back up. If you provide details of switch model and what OS you have, the experts on here will have more to go on.
  20. Will PM you regarding IO extenders. Thanks
  21. Correct - thanks - yes the motion sensor hooked up to the 12V and SIG was playing up - I'm now assuming it was due to voltage being drained through so many connections to the 12V onthe one controller. So I am removing the relay from the 12V loop and using an external power supply. Cool - I will change my connections and hope for the best! Thanks for the help!
  22. Thanks - I am running a relay, not motion sensor - so I just need 12 volts to switch the relay - no SIG is needed I want the 12V to come from an external power supply instead of the HC800. So somehow the 12V needs to be on the switched circuit. (The original mention of the motion sensor was due to me stealing 12V for the relay from the same 12V output as a motion sensor is using for a contact point)
  23. Cool, I will try that - as I have plenty of other power supplies available to use. Help please on the wire config?? Power supply 12V+ --> HC's COM HC's NO --> Relay + Power Supply 12V- --> Relay - Is it as simple as this? Thanks.
  24. Thanks for the advice - I will try a ping asap. The HC300 does control my DMX lighting via the serial port - which are working ok - so I'm assuming the HC300 is connecting fine. I did recently replace the power supply in this unit due to it failing - I wonder if other parts are now failing.... ?
  25. I'm using the contact on an HC300 for a reed switch. This was working fine but C4 no longer reports the door as open. The connections have not changed in C4 A volt meter reads 12v on the reed switch NO and NC appropriately The physical connections are 12V and SIG Any thoughts on what to check within C4 to figure out why it is no longer working?
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