brucecampbell

Thanks for the advice, 

I'll have a bit of a play and see what works, and then will likely get someone in to fix it all when I break it

cheers.

Thanks for the advice,

The Netcomm does not appear to have a bridge mode.
it has DHCP enabled for LAN (Which was required to allow the ASUS to work with it)
The set up is also not using PPPoE, it is on IPoE.

The ASUS has a WAN connection type of Automatic IP (as opposed to PPPoE)
It also has DHCP enabled for LAN

To be fair, my internet has been a bit flaky since I got Fibre 3 years ago, just not enough of a hinderance to do anything about it... until now...

Could you please perhaps provide an example of how you would set up a modest house on a budget (bearing in mind we seem to pay excess $ here in NZ for hardware)
ie: What device to receive internet packet, what device to use as router and how to configure with a dumb switch.

household of four people, internet is used for work, steaming music and video.
C4 Core 5, IO extender, 30-40 zigbee devices.

Cheers.

Thanks for the advice,

Asus seemed a good option for the price for me back then and I've had almost no issues with it.
Now something is failing and not being sure if it is the router or switch, I figured I'd replace the oldest hardware first.

I'm not sure I understand your diagram correctly, are you saying the router connected to the fibre box should be acting as the home router? and use a second router to solely provide wifi?

2 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

Firstly, you want everything to be

<Router> -> Switch -> Wifi + everthing else

Even if the router has wifi, turn it off..

My current set up was in place when I was using DSL
I had a dedicated modem plugged in to the external phone line.
Modem -> ASUS Router (with wifi) -> Level One Switch

When I got upgraded to Fibre, the ISP provided a 'NetComm Wireless' router.
This router is plugged into the fibre ONT and has wifi turned off.
It was suggested to keep all my network the same it was best to have the NetComm manage the internet and the ASUS act as the home router.

NetComm IP = 192.168.1.1
Asus IP = 192.168.2.1
All home devices are on 192.168.2.x  (All devices are dynamic assigned IP)

My fibre is connected using IPoE - does this mean any router will work? - no specific modem needed?
Should I consider getting rid of both the NetComm and Asus and replace with a single new router?

Cheers
 

Hi all, I'm after some advice on a new router for my home.

I currently have an ASUS RT-AC66U which I've had for about 15 years.
I'm experiencing a lot of internet drop off, so I think a replacement is worth a shot.

I'm not very experienced or knowledgeable with routers, so any advice would be appreciated.

My current set up is:

Fibre Internet comes into a Modem/Router the ISP provided me.
ASUS is plugged directly into the Modem via WAN port
ASUS is plugged into a switch via LAN port
All hardwired devices are patched back to the switch via a home hub/patch panel.

Cheers.

9 hours ago, RAV said:

When the HC800 existed, were the IR plugged into it, or still the IO extender? Might try moving it to the Core5 directly, one less hop.

I had two HC800's running, but not sure if the IR was on the primary controller
The IO Extender is brand new, purchased at the same time as the Core.
 

9 hours ago, RAV said:

The only other thing to suggest (other than network) is to add a 1 sec or 1.5 sec timer to programming. When volume up start received, start timer, timer expires send volume up stop. Max volume up ramp would be limited to timer length.

Thanks, I could try this.

11 hours ago, RAV said:

What is the IR bug attached to processor wise?

You said pool house, so I'm assuming there's a zir or small control4 processor there, or did they extend IR all the way from the house main processor?

No pool house, just a swimming pool with it's own speakers (own 'room' as far as C4 is concerned)
All wiring is back to a single rack with Core5 and IO extender

The IR Bug is wired to the IO extender.
In fact, I have 8 IR in use and all are connected to the IO extender, none to the Core 5 (however this same issue happened when I was running HC800's so I don't think it is the hardware.)

15 hours ago, alanchow said:

I don't think that will fix it.  I would put pressure on your dealer to resolve the issue as that most likely is not the issue.

If your dealer has issues resolving it they can escalate to Control4 tech support. They are there to help dealer's resolve scenarios such as this.

Thanks, I'll try that.

21 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

And set a maximum volume for the amp so that you reduce the risk of ever blowing anything!

I've not found anything in the receiver's manual or playing with the menu items which allows this.

Given the volume knob physically rotates, I'm considering gluing a stopper on it.

9 minutes ago, alanchow said:

Volume down causing volume up makes no sense and there is nothing native to control4 that would cause this.

I would get your control4 programmer to review their programming as it could be due to bad programming statements as that could be the only real cause.

Thanks for the input.

I think I'll write the IR driver from scratch, only including the few select codes that I actually need.
Hopefully it's just something not quite right with the current driver.....

13 minutes ago, alanchow said:

This issue most likely is caused by poor network communications.

In summary Control4 sends a proxy notification for START_VOL_UP and STOP_VOL_UP.  If your control device has spotty communications (poor wifi, poor zigbee, etc) then it may miss sending the proxy commands.

As such it fails to receive the STOP_VOL_UP command.

Solution is to build a better wifi and/or zigbee network.

Thanks Alan,

That does sound like a logical explanation, however, two questions this raises.

1. Is this same logic of START_VOL_UP and STOP_VOL_UP used no matter where the command comes from? ie: remote vs iphone app?
       assuming the remotes use zigbee? - its never happened with the remote, so perhaps my zigbee is ok?
       iphone is obviously using wifi - so potentially the issue, it does happen usually when I'm outside, so could be on the limit of wifi range.
       However, pretty unusual that I could repeat the same issue about 5 times in a row while sitting next to my rack, only 5 metres from my wifi router.

2. How would this explain a volume down command resulting in the volume ramping up continuously?

9 minutes ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

I reckon it could be a driver issue. Worth checking it out to see if the IR repeats can be changed. 

I would also try another IR bug too. 

Also does the amp support serial? maybe worth exporting that avenue if it does. 

I thought it was the driver too, which is why I rebuild some of the codes.
Perhaps I should bin the driver I'm using and build a brand new one. (after all, I only need power on/off, volume up/down, mute and source selection)

Not expecting the bug at fault, as wouldn't think the wire itself could cause the issue - but I have plenty more, so no harm in changing it too.

The amp is quite old, no serial or IP support, just IR.

Cheers.

I need help diagnosing the cause here, as this is a major issue for me. And it has happened before, causing damage to my speakers.

I have a Sony receiver used for music in my pool area.
I use Spotify on my iPhone as the source, with 'Spotify Connect' to C4.
I use the C4 app on my phone to change the volume.

I used the C4 App to turn the volume up.
One touch yet the volume kept ramping up to full volume - only stopping when I noticed what was happening, so hit the room off button.

I go to my rack to watch what is happening.
I run through the same sequence of audio selection and volume change again and I see the IR bug signalling constantly to ramp the volume up.
I turn off and try again.
This time I hit volume down on my phone, the volume correctly goes down a notch, but then immediately the IR bug lights up again and volume keeps ramping up.

I decide to try next using the SR260 remote.
This time the volume adjustments work ok.
So I go back to my phone and now the volume adjustments work ok again.

The first time this happened, I was on an older OS with HC800's running the show. I also had a different iPhone
I'm now on 3.3 with a Core 5.

It's only ever happened when using the C4 app to change volume.
Its only ever happened with this one room. (though other rooms are usually controlled by the remote)

After the last time, I also edited the sony driver - manually removing and adding back in the IR codes for volume up and down and power cycle.

Where is the fault?

How can I fix this?
 

12 hours ago, time2jet said:

Have you rebooted your EA3?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its a core5 and yes a reboot did not change the behaviour.

cheers.

8 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

Interesting.  I never use the SR260 for lighting but have just tried my light control and am getting some strange behaviour - essentially the same as your experience.  Definitely buggy!

Is there a way to log this as a bug with C4 tech?

The light control via my SR260 remotes has gone wonky.

I scroll to a light and click the select button.
The remove's screen flashes and returns with the selected light at the top of the list.
Sometimes a second click toggles the light, other times the screen flashes again and a third click toggles the light.

Happens on all my remotes.

Recently upgraded to 3.3.3

3 hours ago, msgreenf said:

Fix the output to 1080p in the driver for the controller. That should solve your problem

Thanks for the advice.
I think my HDMI to Component converter must be a limitation, 1080P did not work, but 720P is working ok.

Right, Core5 HDMI output connected to 'HDMI to Component' converter.
Component connected to Leaf 1080 matrix.
Two TV's connected to 1080 matrix.

TV1 is an old Hitachi plasma - this shows the OSD, though the TV says 'invalid format' for a while. And does not show the correct size screen, it appears the output is too big for the screen.

TV2 is a Panasonic LCD - this shows a black screen only.
 

Any ideas what the issue is?
 

13 hours ago, ekohn00 said:

What NAS do you have? A lot of them can run plex.

Synology DS109J
I'm not sure it can run Plex. I vaguely remember looking into it when I first installed Plex years ago.

13 hours ago, ekohn00 said:

If you have 100s of movies and you say you'd use plex once a year then you either collect video files you never watch, or you don't know what Plex is.

Interesting statement.
I collected most of these movies about 20 years ago, back before streaming was available and use a Netgear media player to play these distributed to all TV's in the house via a left 1080 component matrix - from back before HDMI was really available via matrix, or too costly..
They used to get watched all the time, especially when the kids were young.
I don't think I've added another movie for 15 years.

On 7/25/2023 at 6:47 PM, Amr said:

I have a mixed results with Infuse, I love it but it caches on your ATV, if u have lots of Apps and your ATV is 32GB, u will need to look else where aka Plex as Infuse will always reload contents and it’s annoying!

I do have Plex, but I was unable to link it to my NAS.
I think my only option here is to link it from my home PC or laptop - which means leaving it on 24/7 - which I just don't do.

So the one time per year I go to use Plex, I have to walk to the office to turn the PC on..... not ideal....

On 7/25/2023 at 2:01 PM, South Africa C4 user said:

If you have an Apple TV, you might find the Infuse App is a better way of achieving this.

I don't know the infuse App, but will take a look, so thanks for recommending it.

I do have an early Gen Apple TV on my living room TV.
But only an XBox and Chrome Cast on the second TV.

The ease of use with the NetGear via the component matrix will probably be my best option, as most of the time these stored movies would be watched by the kids on the second TV.

8 hours ago, time2jet said:

OSD on a matrix has been traditionally for camera pops and media (what’s playing).  

I still have 100's of old movies on a NAS drive and a netgear EVA media player hooked into a leaf 1080 matrix.
Hardly used given all the streaming options we have, but if the OSD is available, we might use it...

8 hours ago, cdcllc said:

I've had an EA5 with the on-screen nav to all TV's via video matrix for 6 years.  Yes - it works well.  But in practice, it is very, very, very seldom used.  If I needed another video source, I wouldn't think twice about giving up the on-screen navigator.  If you have other control devices like a C4 wall-mount, mobile device app and/or a C4 SR-260/halo readily available, my advice is I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it, unless I just needed a project to work to have some fun!

I doubt I'd use it much either, but I'm not using HDMI out of the core and the leaf matrix has plenty of pots, as it's hardly used these days either - might try to get it running now that I know its still available.

Just now, South Africa C4 user said:

Have you tried rebooting your EA5?  
What is your EA5 plugged in to (in terms of its HDMI connection)?

HDMI on the Core5 is currently not used.
I'd have to try it through my HDMI to Component converter as I only have component running from the rack to the TV's
However, if the controller needs to do the HDCP handshake, then I would assume I can't use it via this method.

Is the on screen navigator still a thing?

I've been on an HC800 for so long, where my OS version didn't allow this functionality.
Now that I've upgraded to a Core5, I just thought about it again, but my 4 button does nothing.

16 hours ago, RAV said:

Send an email each time room off pressed to set a log

I could do, but I don't yet see how a log of 'room off' will help here.

I have no way to determine what action was taken to trigger the room off.

Cheers.